i keep spinning out - need tune help

  • Thread starter Thread starter DSUjoeDirte9
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United States
Ohio
Im using the premium mustang from dealership (Newer 1 dunno what its all called)

It has about 350 hp how i have it right now but its available to like 500 if i remember.

I have my car tuned to extreme understeer and i still keep spinning out. Ive been good at drifting before on ds3 and i just got a wheel.

im getting used to it but i feel i should be doing better than i am right now.

Any help on a major thing that changes how to car spins.. weight ballast high from camber...soemthing
 
post you settings, maybe i can help... im not a pro but my mustang os pretty smooth :)

need to know how your settings like lsd suspension, etc... and what parts are installed...
how many HP it have, erc
 
Do you have issues on wheel using only this specific car? If no, you also should review your wheel settings and benchmark what the best wheel users here do.

About the mustang, witch personaly i dont like due the hugely unbalanced weight distribuition and already heavy (cars like this are barely impossible to reach an 55-45 at least without pass from the 1400kg), can be a good car in the right hands and with the right setup (specialy the spring relation to deal with the bad weight distribuition).

If you really love this car, go for it. But if you want any Mustang ingame to become your daily drifting car, the Cobra stills the best choice.
 
Premium Mustang's live rear axle causes the inside wheel to lose grip from heavy tire deformation due to the angle of the axle to the ground. This causes the outside wheel to spin the car out easily under power. The Cobra has fully independent rear suspension, and does not suffer from this problem. It is likely that your heavy understeer setting is forcing you to use the throttle to drift more than usual, and this effect is amplified. To counteract this, using a slightly higher rear camber than your body roll angle is ideal. The number entirely depends on how much roll the car is facing, which depends on your suspension settings and the tire's grip.

If you are getting oversteer from drifting without power, then it could be the body roll. If your springs are too loose for the drop amount and weight over each wheel for a given G level, the outside wheels could be bottoming out, enhancing the previous effect by causing harmonic motion that bounces the inside wheel upward (from bouncing the bottoming-out-body on the outside wheel, since they are linked by a single axle) adding to the effect. If you are a relatively new drifter, your driving style will probably feature sharp changes in G forces that can easily cause this.

Outside of this, driving style will affect this greater. It could be that your second moment of inertia, as well as your steering ratios, are poor enough that the delay between steering input and reaction in the car (especially if the front wheels are not receiving enough weight to have enough grip to speed up the turn-in process), then you should start the drift earlier before the corner and take a wider line with less angle. You will slow down relative cornering time to your angle (and thus might fall behind a leading car of equivalent speed), but it's a lot faster than crashing.

Also, keep in mind that peak power means nothing in a drift car. It has to do with the average spread of torque at the engine multiplied by the various gear ratios (including the tire diameter) and its relative measure against the grip coefficient of the tires. Another thing to worry about is the -shape- of your power. Using the Horsepower and Torque graph in the tuning sheet, look for the RPMs where the torque rises and falls. If you apply throttle to rising RPMs in the middle of a drift, it is possible to get a sudden "surge" of power that overwhelms the tires, and while a fast drifter can compensate for this, can make the car wildly unpredictable to someone with a slower reaction time or less knowledge of how their car handles.
 
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Premium Mustang's live rear axle causes the inside wheel to lose grip from heavy tire deformation due to the angle of the axle to the ground. This causes the outside wheel to spin the car out easily under power. The Cobra has fully independent rear suspension, and does not suffer from this problem. It is likely that your heavy understeer setting is forcing you to use the throttle to drift more than usual, and this effect is amplified. To counteract this, using a slightly higher rear camber than your body roll angle is ideal. The number entirely depends on how much roll the car is facing, which depends on your suspension settings and the tire's grip.

If you are getting oversteer from drifting without power, then it could be the body roll. If your springs are too loose for the drop amount and weight over each wheel for a given G level, the outside wheels could be bottoming out, enhancing the previous effect by causing harmonic motion that bounces the inside wheel upward (from bouncing the bottoming-out-body on the outside wheel, since they are linked by a single axle) adding to the effect. If you are a relatively new drifter, your driving style will probably feature sharp changes in G forces that can easily cause this.

Outside of this, driving style will affect this greater. It could be that your second moment of inertia, as well as your steering ratios, are poor enough that the delay between steering input and reaction in the car (especially if the front wheels are not receiving enough weight to have enough grip to speed up the turn-in process), then you should start the drift earlier before the corner and take a wider line with less angle. You will slow down, but it's a lot faster than crashing.

Also, keep in mind that peak power means nothing in a drift car. It has to do with the average spread of torque at the engine multiplied by the various gear ratios (including the tire diameter) and its relative measure against the grip coefficient of the tires. Another thing to worry about is the -shape- of your power. Using the Horsepower and Torque graph in the tuning sheet, look for the RPMs where the torque rises and falls. If you apply throttle to rising RPMs in the middle of a drift, it is possible to get a sudden "surge" of power that overwhelms the tires, and while a fast drifter can compensate for this, can make the car wildly unpredictable to someone with a slower reaction time or less knowledge of how their car handles.

tl;dr and I'm unsure whether what you said in the first paragraph would be reflected realistically within GT5.

try a bit of toe in and camber on the rear.
 
Premium Mustang's live rear axle causes the inside wheel to lose grip from heavy tire deformation due to the angle of the axle to the ground. This causes the outside wheel to spin the car out easily under power. The Cobra has fully independent rear suspension, and does not suffer from this problem. It is likely that your heavy understeer setting is forcing you to use the throttle to drift more than usual, and this effect is amplified. To counteract this, using a slightly higher rear camber than your body roll angle is ideal. The number entirely depends on how much roll the car is facing, which depends on your suspension settings and the tire's grip.

If you are getting oversteer from drifting without power, then it could be the body roll. If your springs are too loose for the drop amount and weight over each wheel for a given G level, the outside wheels could be bottoming out, enhancing the previous effect by causing harmonic motion that bounces the inside wheel upward (from bouncing the bottoming-out-body on the outside wheel, since they are linked by a single axle) adding to the effect. If you are a relatively new drifter, your driving style will probably feature sharp changes in G forces that can easily cause this.

Outside of this, driving style will affect this greater. It could be that your second moment of inertia, as well as your steering ratios, are poor enough that the delay between steering input and reaction in the car (especially if the front wheels are not receiving enough weight to have enough grip to speed up the turn-in process), then you should start the drift earlier before the corner and take a wider line with less angle. You will slow down relative cornering time to your angle (and thus might fall behind a leading car of equivalent speed), but it's a lot faster than crashing.

Also, keep in mind that peak power means nothing in a drift car. It has to do with the average spread of torque at the engine multiplied by the various gear ratios (including the tire diameter) and its relative measure against the grip coefficient of the tires. Another thing to worry about is the -shape- of your power. Using the Horsepower and Torque graph in the tuning sheet, look for the RPMs where the torque rises and falls. If you apply throttle to rising RPMs in the middle of a drift, it is possible to get a sudden "surge" of power that overwhelms the tires, and while a fast drifter can compensate for this, can make the car wildly unpredictable to someone with a slower reaction time or less knowledge of how their car handles.

I'm sure he said this in this post but the Mustang has a lot of wheelspin whether it has high or low BHP (in the game). My only advice is to start in something different with less wheelspin and also if you are still learning with a wheel it helps to start with very little angle and slowly gain more and more angle.

The thing you have to remember is that drifting with a wheel takes time to master as I'm sure most of the wheel drifters on GTPlanet will tell you.
 
Don't worry its not the car or the setup . Your new to the wheel you will spin out for a good few week untill you get used to it. Iv been practicing my wheel for 8 week and I still spin out just no were as much as I did 7 week ago. Just keep practicing You will soon get the hang of it. Good luck.
 
Im not home but i remember my setting fairly well... there so completely out of wack and im really disapointed that it has taken this much to beable to handle the car how i want.

the dampers are normal but there not usually all the way as low as they are... the lowest they have been before this car was 4... how i always did it with ds3... i know im new to wheel but i usually get a hang of things very fast and i already got whole counter thing going on... but i cant do any type of transition from 1 turn to the other without straightening my car out. and i cant consistantly do anything with the car. like sometimes it will be amazing and sometimes it will just spin out as ive said.. but i think thats because of my tune..

Consider me a nooby since im new to wheel and just gimme a controlable help :)
 
tsukubacircuitm.jpg


(Power limiter... it can go up to 500 something if u guys find it needed... engien 1 used and mostly everything else is upgraded on this car, i like driving really modded drift cars) (i can usually control them better than stock drift cars... dunno y)
-Also have weight ballast added... but it has all weight reduction kits

Comfort Hards (Ill be using these in the end..dont wanna go through like i did with ds3 and slowly dongrade from sports hards)

Transmition: Full transmittion tuned to be fast shifting so not delay.
HP:355
Weight: 1432
LSD: 12/24/14

-suspension is ew i want it fixed

Ride Height: 5/-2
Spring Rate 10.2/6/8
Dampers Ext: 1/6
Dampers Com: 6/1
Anti roll bars: 4/1 (I think.. if not its like 4/2)
camper: 1.5/1.3
Toe: 0/.24

edit: i dried driving this car with the controler and its very controlable... now i could easily say its the wheel and me with i think 50% of it is... but i also dont think u can take a controler tune were you whip the analog stick immediatly full steer the opposite way onto a wheel.

so it still needs wheel help... also whats a good way to practice.. like is there any favorite track or even style of drifting
 
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I see a few strange issues with the tuning (such as the fact that you've lifted the front-end above the rear-end for some reason?) but what jumps out to me are the dampers. 1/6 and 6/1 is... strange, to say the least.

So your front dampers will compress quickly and rebound slowly; the rear ones will compress slowly and rebound quickly. This means the weight will transfer forward very quickly when braking, causing the rear end to pop out with ease with minimal weight transfer. However, weight is slow to transfer back to the rear. So for example after entering the drift, as you get back on the throttle again, you won't be able to put much power down. You'll have to ease into it very delicately, or the car will just spin out. This could be the crux of your problem. I'd suggest slightly more balanced damper settings so that weight transfers in all directions at relatively similar rates.

While your roll bars and camber may help to induce understeer, as you suggested was your goal, your dampers and ride height are probably having the opposite effect. You're going to be very front-heavy, especially going into corners, making the tail end come out very easily but hard to keep out. I'd say this would make an extremely difficult car to learn on.

The other issue I see is that your LSD is fairly open. Lock that sucker up, at least on accel! All the way to 60, baby.

Edit: Also, the problem of spinning out halfway through the drift, and of having snap understeer which throws you off the outside edge of a corner, are classic learning troubles with drifting. If you're experiencing these problems and nothing seems to correct it, it doesn't necessarily mean anything is wrong with your setup at all. It might just be that you need practice. Drifting is harder than it looks.
 
Try an s15 I practiced with this car for 8 week then moved to a z33.I found the z33 was hard to drift slow sections but my team mate tuned my transmission and now it's a beast. There is no gear lag what so ever. Pm me and I'll give you the transmission tune.
 
My 3 big tips for the wheel:

5,30,30 LSD

ALWAYS keep the rear wheels spinning or sliding. If you get edgy and let off the throttle and dont lock the back wheels, they will grip and throw your front end off the way the wheels are pointing.

You can rarely 'gain' speed at maximum or very high angle. If you are sliding to a halt just let it, adding power to a high angle drift will just spin you around. (Just hold lightly on the throttle to keep the wheels spinning).
 
Most cars handle different, so stick with a car that you feel comfortable with. Now, about your "spinning out" problem. Throttle Control, in my opinion, is one the most important factors in drifting.. For example, I drift a Nissan Z34 08'. Until a couple months ago, just like you, I was spinning out. When I'm about to go into a turn, I slam the gas to get the wheels spinning, then simply adjust the throttle to wherever I need it to be (25%, 50%, 75%, 100%) and it gets me perfect drifts. People compliment my drifting and precision around the turns. This technique is very effective in my opinion. You should try it. If you want to drift sometime, PSN - DBeav12. I'm using a DFGT, by the way.
 
I'm unsure whether what you said in the first paragraph would be reflected realistically within GT5.

While not with this car, as I tend to not use this car, it's been my experience that this is a real issue within the game.

As for someone having to use the throttle more than necessary to drift, I say pish-posh, the throttle should be used as much as possible and, in fact, far more than the wheel.
 
I say, as cliche-ish as it sounds, experiment...I couldn't realistically provide you a tune because everyone drives differently. I've perused threads like these over and over again. I've attempted to use the tunes provided for the specified vehicles, and in each case I find myself redoing each because they never translate to my personal driving style. Also to keep in mind is that each vehicle drifts differently because of its weight distribution, center of mass, wheelbase, suspension geometry, etc....as such, in tuning I only allow for a few constants..FC suspension lowered evenly to maintain original balance whilst bringing down the center of gravity( this can be adjusted later), anti roll bars to 4-up evenly (can be adjusted also), LSD to 5/55/45...after that its all up to personal taste, make minor adjustments as needed; for example, to cure spinouts, try softening the rear spring rate, or lowering rear camber, or by simply laying off the throttle a bit.
 
Believe it or not having the front raised higher than the rear is a good way to eliminate cars that want to snap back :P just for reference.

Edit: You guys have it all wrong. Try this on for size, instead of getting a car and sticking a tune on it everytime, try drifting all your cars stock like I do. I usually don't have a tune on my best tune cars till I keep finding things that make me better, like my viper for example. I drifted it stock, than played with it and My setup has the suspension not lowered, but RAISED, and Megamarc can tell ya, It will HAAAAAUUUL! I fix my springrates using this process: Lower them all the way, lower dampers and anti roll bars all the way. Then, I keep putting them up a few ticks till they feel right. Making a drift setup isnt about finding someone elses and just "dealing with it" and I hear things like "But it's from one of the top drifters" well guess what? They put TIME into their setups, not looking around for others. Invest the time in experimenting and you will have, not only a great drift machine, but the feeling that you accomplished something you never thought possible.
 
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