I need help with this tuning issue...

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jrbabbitt

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TCR_JimyBee
I am not looking for a fix but looking to learn how to fix problems like this weight transfer / snap oversteer.
In video I am at Spa in the back stretch before the bus stop and I try to correct oversteer to left and snap I am going right and off track.
What causes this and what do I do in my suspension settings to prevent this or make it manageable?

 
I am not looking for a fix but looking to learn how to fix problems like this weight transfer / snap oversteer.
In video I am at Spa in the back stretch before the bus stop and I try to correct oversteer to left and snap I am going right and off track.
What causes this and what do I do in my suspension settings to prevent this or make it manageable?


What is the current setup?
 
Using racing slick tyres on a car with no downforce won't do you many favours. Generally, when using slicks, particularly on old road cars, the following things help;
-Install the increase body rigidity upgrade
-Increase the natural frequency on the suspension to 3.00 or higher to reduce body roll
-Install a rear wing and set rear downforce to roughly 100 points higher than the front

This won't necessarily help with snap oversteer, most road cars will be very hard to control when sliding on racing tyres. But these things will help keep the car more planted and less likely to slide in the first place. Hope it helps.
 
What is the current setup?
Will post setup when I get internet back..
Funny as I typed this, it came back online...
1914222261e85-3fa315B375F96579043.7F0DCD06C091CCF5_message_441188146966640_1723391199088.jpg
 
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Will post setup when I get internet back..
Funny as I typed this, it came back online...
View attachment 1380139
For snap oversteer, you have the rear anti roll bar too soft, allowing the inside rear wheel to spin more when it grips up as you turn in under load through the higher speed corner.
Another factor in this is the differential locking with the amount of turning/G forces being used alongside the throttle.

So my recommendation to your setup is to increase rear anti roll bar, increase braking and initial differential, have bump/compression stiffer in the front than the rear whether lowering rear or increasing front etc.

Those are my suggestions to reduce snap oversteer however your on off on off of the throttle didn’t help the situation either
 
Those are my suggestions to reduce snap oversteer however your on off on off of the throttle didn’t help the situation either
Thank you for these answers, I want/ need to learn the intricacies of tuning so not to just get a tuning setup from one of the regulars and have it not right for how I drive.
Yes, I know my throttle use needs work and this 1.49/.50 update is forcing me to be more subtle/gentle/delicate with throttle inputs which is good for me in the bigger picture.
Thank you many times over...
(Will keep you updated on how things progress with the adjustments)
 
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Increasing natural frequency and adding a rear wing will help with preventing the car from sliding in the first place.
 
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Increasing natural frequency and adding a rear wing will help with preventing the car from sliding in the first place.
Please forgive me but I cannot (repeat will not) put a rear wing on a Toyota 2000GT, it would be like finger painting over the Mona Lisa!
Some cars just do not look right at all with a rear wing....
 
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Update of info. (Posting this here so others can learn from my mistakes)
When choosing a different car for the race at Spa, I grabbed my 240Z that has the LS7 Rampage engine swap and when I started the race I noticed the nose of my car jumping up with each and every gear change and it was not stable, made the car very twitchy. I quit the race and jumped into the settings and it dawned on me that putting a 700+hp motor in a 1900lb car was the cause of the instability. I detuned this beast to a more manageable sub-400hp.
19142bbc2f71-27720657D01D4B63844.315B375F96579043_message_441190616330892_1723400845042.jpg
19142bbaa4759-27720657D01D4B63844.315B375F96579043_message_441190618684885_1723400854237.jpg
 
Update of info. (Posting this here so others can learn from my mistakes)
When choosing a different car for the race at Spa, I grabbed my 240Z that has the LS7 Rampage engine swap and when I started the race I noticed the nose of my car jumping up with each and every gear change and it was not stable, made the car very twitchy. I quit the race and jumped into the settings and it dawned on me that putting a 700+hp motor in a 1900lb car was the cause of the instability. I detuned this beast to a more manageable sub-400hp.View attachment 1380186View attachment 1380187
Natural frequency is too soft and front expansion is too high/hard/fast with rear compression too soft which is why it feels like the nose moves up like that
 
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