I Think I Need A Welder...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Skymeat
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Skymeat

Skymeat

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Skymeat1
Okay...So I'm going to fab my cockpit. I've been trying to find an excuse for a long time to but a welder. I have grinders, saws, drills, etc... But welding always seemed a black art. I have an almost unlimited supply of test/practice steel...

So...I'm liking the square tube cockpits that have been showing up, right up my alley.

But I've been having a hard time searching welding forums for the type of welder I need. I'm not afraid of a learning curve, I've got time. But I would like to make usable welds with the greatest ease, and lowest cost.

What are you guys using? Can I get a Craig's list stick welder, or do I need to pony up for a wire welder and gas?

Thanks,
Skymeat
 
I'm not a welder but I bought a Mig welder about 3 yrs ago to build a driving rig. I bought a 140 Amp that uses flux wire or gas/non flux wire. I had no problem learning to use it. It has come in handy with other repairs around the house. Also buy a how-to book for welding and practice,practice, and practice some more. I also bought a decent helmet off ebay auto darking.
 
Nice to see another "I think I need..." thread! :lol:

With regards to your welding needs I would strongly recommend that you purchase a MIG set . Solid wire is fine (you don't really need flux-core wire for your purposes) and I'd go for 0.8mm wire 'cos you'll be able to get a nice small profile weld. The set should be capable of 140amps (although you won't need to set it that high!)

You've got plenty of practice pieces so once you have your amps and wire speed set, you'll be welding in no time. Practice makes perfect. I'd also recommend an auto-darking helmet; these are perfect for setting up butts etc as you don't have to move your hands to drop the screen.

If you have anymore welding questions please feel free to ask and I'll gladly help out (I have 25+ years experience in welding so I should be able to help you! :))

Good luck!
 
Okay - So MIG it is. That's going to push the budget, but It's something that I've been meaning to do for a long time also.

Any recommendations? I'm likely going to be a light user too...

I was looking at this...
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00920580000P?prdNo=16&blockNo=16&blockType=G16

I figure I'll need to get a real helmet, gloves, gas...What other essential accessories will I need (magnets, clamps, etc...)?

@Greeze - That's why I called it 'I think I need...' I figure your cockpit thread is why I'm finally getting here...
 
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Skymeat
Okay - So MIG it is. That's going to push the budget, but It's something that I've been meaning to do for a long time also.

Any recommendations? I'm likely going to be a light user too...

I was looking at this...
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00920580000P?prdNo=16&blockNo=16&blockType=G16

I figure I'll need to get a real helmet, gloves, gas...What other essential accessories will I need (magnets, clamps, etc...)?

@Greeze - That's why I called it 'I think I need...' I figure your cockpit thread is why I'm finally getting here...
Click to expand...


That looks pretty good. Go for it. If you don't get the gas you will just have to hammer off the slag. Most likely you will be grinding the welds smooth anyway so you could $100 by not getting the gas.
 
Skymeat
Okay - So MIG it is. That's going to push the budget, but It's something that I've been meaning to do for a long time also.

Any recommendations? I'm likely going to be a light user too...

I was looking at this...
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00920580000P?prdNo=16&blockNo=16&blockType=G16

I figure I'll need to get a real helmet, gloves, gas...What other essential accessories will I need (magnets, clamps, etc...)?

@Greeze - That's why I called it 'I think I need...' I figure your cockpit thread is why I'm finally getting here...
Click to expand...

If I were you I'd save up enough money to buy at least a 140 Amp welder you'll be glad you did. You don't really need to use gas until you get the hang of welding, but I'd buy one that has the gas regulator with it so later you will only have to buy a bottle and gas. You'll just have lots of smoke so weld in a well vented area.
 
'Lincoln' is a pretty good make (they've been around for years) and you could certainly get away with that set as a 'hobbyist'. Is that wire size 0.8mm?

Make sure you get:
Screen/helmet
Gloves
Safety glasses (you should wear these ALL the time whilst fabricating. Unless you fancy a trip to the emergency room to get steel splinters out of your eyes!)
Ear protection (grinding is noisy!)
Overalls
Suitable footwear (preferably steel toed) Sneakers are no protection against molten metal, sparks or a dropped tool/length of steel.

You'll also find these handy:
Clamps
Hammer
Files (one flat, one round)
Small chisel
Wire brush
etc...

Remember that electric shock can kill and welding fumes are not all that good for you either. Have a well ventilated work-area. Watch out for any flammable items in the vicinity and have a fire extinguisher handy too.

There you go; hope that all helps :)
 
Just seen opelgt1969's post.

A 140amp (with or without gas) machine is likely to be a bit more 'heavy-duty' and capable of running all day without overheating or cutting out (Dont panic! Your Lincoln will be okay; I'm talking about pretty much continuous welding for 8 to 10 hours a day). It'd be a good buy but honestly, you don't really need to splash out if you're only using a welding machine occasionally.

Unless you intend to go on to fabricate other stuff, I'd stick with the Lincoln. :)
 
Thanks for all the info...I'm stalking craig's list...failing that I should get it next week.

I haven't been able to get my hands on any plans, but I figure I'll just build it around a seat. The first attempt needs to be functional more than beautiful. If any of you have some plans I'd love to have the head-start.
 
Skymeat
opelgt1969 - Can you post what you made?
Click to expand...

If you click on my Avatar and go to "My Profile" page I have photo's there. If you open the G25 picture I have in my visitor messages it should open a link to the photo in imageshack from there you can see all the photo's of my rig (and some unrelated photos too none to worry about seeing all rated G maybe a few PG nothing I would be ashamed of being seen). The ones with the wooden top is the one I started with if you look at the rest the ones with the black metal base for the wheel is the part I modified. The bolts you see are for adjustments up/down/in/out. The newer ones also have the "Opel GT" car seat in them, the seat is on orange blocks as I'm still adjusting the height of the seat I'm getting too old to get in and out of seat from the floor so I've been raising it to make it easier. Here's a sample photo:


As for the reason for the 140 Amp over the 88 Amp is if you decide to weld something heavy later. Maybe someone that has better welding brains than me should answer this part for you. Myself if I'm going to buy a TOOL I want one I can use.
 
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Cool design. I think I'm going to steer away from a foldable design, but use toggle clamps to hold the seat on, so that it's still stow able easily. The wife has been persuaded, so I have to do my part to make it easy to put away.

I think I have a decent idea at this point how I want to build...It's just a matter of acquiring tools and parts.

I used to have a habit of buying the best tool for a particular job...That's why I have things like a 24v cordless SDS drill that's drilled perhaps 70 holes (they were fast, fast holes and it's glorious to break it out at parties, or for the random anchor for a slackline) but the price per hole is about 14$ so far, not to mention the seriously expensive hardware that fills those holes.

So at this point I try to buy the tool that will get the particular job done, and go from there. I have a whole chest of power tools (all brands, no harbor freight) that are the base models of their type. If I was still on the best of kick...well I'd have one other tool for the price of 7-8. And so far none of them have failed.
 
Another question...I have a shoddy bandsaw I was planning on cutting tubing with. But It's not so accurate, and fails at miter cuts.

Is it possible to use a miter saw with a dry ferrous blade? Also, using a speed controller to keep RPM's down.
 
Hmm, not sure about the mitre saw. It'll need to run pretty slow and will probably need lube to prolong the life of the blade...

I used an angle grinder (5") with a 'slitting disc' (about 1mm thick) to cut all my steel. :)
 
Skymeat
Another question...I have a shoddy bandsaw I was planning on cutting tubing with. But It's not so accurate, and fails at miter cuts.

Is it possible to use a miter saw with a dry ferrous blade? Also, using a speed controller to keep RPM's down.
Click to expand...

I use a DeWalt DW705 compound miter saw 12" with a "Chop saw wheel" Wheel is a general purpose metal cutting wheel size: 12" x 7/64" x 1"
this is a DeWalt wheel the number is worn out on the wheel but where it says general purpose the number here says A-24R. The saw isn't made to use a metal cutting wheel so do so at your own risk here. I haven't had any problems cutting tubing and pipe up to 3". Just make sure you let the saw cool in between cuts I've burnt several bushings up on mine but I also got it for free and had to repair it didn't buy new rotor I just keep replacing bushings (nothing to do with cutting metal as far as burning bushings) One thing I do is to remove the Plastic plate the blade goes into as it started getting very warm and I didn't want to melt it. I put it back on when not cutting metal. Also don't use the dust collector and set the saw outside if you can because the sparks will fly also makes somewhat of a mess with the metal being cut. I get smooth cuts just watch for the metal sticking out at the cuts and don't try pushing the cutting wheel down with a lot of force just let the wheel do the work. Also if trying to trim the ends watch out as the small parts could go flying. And always wear SAFETY GLASSES while cutting. When cutting your angle parts make them longer then trim the square end after you make sure they have the correct angle. Hope this is of some help.
 
So after much deliberation I have the following in the mail!

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200306073_200306073

I got a 40 cuf cylinder locally for a steal, my neighbor is a fabricator and is stoked that I'm learning and has offered his time and gear. So I'm almost set up.

The wrinkle...But a very good wrinkle...My wife and I are having a baby in a week or two. So in all likelihood my project is pushing back to sometime in the future. I'll start a new thread when I get to building.

Thanks for all the info and input!

Skymeat
 
Looking forward to seeing the outcome, remember to take some pictures of it as its being made.
 
the_greeze, and anyone else with input
I'm all set up now - I spent the little free time I had this weekend making running gear for the set-up. I have to say that it reminds me of the erector set I had as a kid. But way cooler. Just Sizzle, Sizzle, Sizzle and bam! You have metal attached to metal.

As for the cockpit built what size tubing would you recommend? I've been working with 3/4"x.065 square so far. You guys think that the frame needs larger/thicker tubing?


Thanks,
Skymeat
 
Skymeat
So after much deliberation I have the following in the mail!

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200306073_200306073

I got a 40 cuf cylinder locally for a steal, my neighbor is a fabricator and is stoked that I'm learning and has offered his time and gear. So I'm almost set up.

The wrinkle...But a very good wrinkle...My wife and I are having a baby in a week or two. So in all likelihood my project is pushing back to sometime in the future. I'll start a new thread when I get to building.

Thanks for all the info and input!

Skymeat
Click to expand...


Sounds like it snuck up on you.
 
Skymeat
the_greeze, and anyone else with input
As for the cockpit built what size tubing would you recommend? I've been working with 3/4"x.065 square so far. You guys think that the frame needs larger/thicker tubing?
Click to expand...

Well, I used 25x25x3mm section for my build and it's absolutely rock solid (as you would expect!) I don't see any real disadvantage from using slightly smaller tubing :)
 
the_greeze
Well, I used 25x25x3mm section for my build and it's absolutely rock solid (as you would expect!) I don't see any real disadvantage from using slightly smaller tubing :)
Click to expand...

I used 1" square on mine as well, 14 gauge.
 
I figured out why every one use's square tubing...Round tubing is a pain in the butt to work with. Gotta love hindsight
 
Skymeat
the_greeze, and anyone else with input
I'm all set up now - I spent the little free time I had this weekend making running gear for the set-up. I have to say that it reminds me of the erector set I had as a kid. But way cooler. Just Sizzle, Sizzle, Sizzle and bam! You have metal attached to metal.

As for the cockpit built what size tubing would you recommend? I've been working with 3/4"x.065 square so far. You guys think that the frame needs larger/thicker tubing?


Thanks,
Skymeat
Click to expand...

I used different sizes so I can adjust different sections here's a picture and you can see more in "My Profile Page" :

picture.php
 
14Ga it is... Only a couple cents more a foot. I thought about going with round tube; It would be very cool, and give me an excuse to get a tube notcher, hole saws and a bending rig....

I've been using a cutoff disk on the grinder, and have found it very effective. Thanks for the tip!

Thanks for all the input - I'll start the real thing soon...I think I need to make a couple more practice pieces still; A trebuchet, and small gate....Then onward :)
 

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