Ignore my bad driving, help me solve my problem!

  • Thread starter Thread starter samuelleung83
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samuelleung83

samuelleung83

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Australia
Hobart/Tasmania/Australia
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its_tricky83
Hey guys, so I have a video of a problem I'm experiencing with my Fanatec Wheel and I'm hoping someone else can shed some light on the matter.. at least give me an indication of how common this problem may be.
Anyway, I'll let the video do the talking. Thanks heaps for any replies.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2eEErqKywQ

EDIT: SOLVED - As hard as this is to believe if you watched the video, the problem was actually with the Fanatec Club Sport Pedals. PagnianImports.com.au were great with support and sent me out a new circuit board and 'load cell', so I didn't have to wait for confirmation from Fanatec themselves. My wheel never quite felt right from the start but now with the replacement components for the pedals its tha shiznit. F1 2010 is awesome, so much more fun that GT but maybe that's because I drove myself mad trying to play GT with a faulty wheel. Anyway I hope this can help someone else one day.
 
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Couldnt hear the video clearly(my computer speakers arent great)but could your shifter be busted?My old G25's shifter went kaput and would just pop out of gear resulting in no power...
 
wrighty_1986
looked like he had it in auto mode though...
Click to expand...

He's using the paddle shifters...

OP: It looks like your wheel was becoming totally unresponsive... I'd look into the power connection. Make sure there isn't a short in the cord on a stress point like the pigtail or the transformer.

It just seems like recalibration is fixing the issue... I don't have that wheel so I'm not familiar with it at all, but my gut instinct is telling me you have some sort of power interrupt happening.
 
CRCError1970
He's using the paddle shifters...

OP: It looks like your wheel was becoming totally unresponsive... I'd look into the power connection. Make sure there isn't a short in the cord on a stress point like the pigtail or the transformer.

It just seems like recalibration is fixing the issue... I don't have that wheel so I'm not familiar with it at all, but my gut instinct is telling me you have some sort of power interrupt happening.
Click to expand...

oh yeah,like a frayed power supply wire to the steering wheel..gave me probs too lol
 
The first thing to do is take the 6 speed shifter off. If you have no problems racing this way then the problem is either the shifter or the interface between the shifter and the wheel.

Also, make sure you're not tapping/hitting the clutch when you brake. That could be causing a problem since you're using the paddles and not the shifter. Remember this is all software and software is stupid. The shifter might be engaging accidentally.
 
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CosmicSlop
The first thing to do is take the 6 speed shifter off. If you have no problems racing this way then the problem is either the shifter or the interface between the shifter and the wheel.

Also, make sure you're not tapping/hitting the clutch when you brake. That could be causing a problem since you're using the paddles and not the shifter. Remember this is all software and software is stupid. The shifter might be engaging accidentally.
Click to expand...

Sorry guys I forgot to mention in the video that the problem still occurs when I take the shifter off. I'm pretty sure I also got the problem to occur when I was using the H-Shifter with full clutch control, but I've had limited race time with that and it was very early days (like with the RITZ, lol).

I'm going to move the clutch plate across to the left tonight. But I've been trying my best to avoid resting my foot on it through testing this problem.
 
Originally I had all the wires very carefully routed so everything was neat. I thought that maybe this was part of the problem. So I have since left all the cables hanging freely and away from each other. All cables are like brand new. And I've even tried switching all the cables around and bought new PS/2 cables for the shifter and pedal connections. This problem has occurred almost since day one.
 
Just an update on my problem. I was also having the same problem in F1 2010. PagnianImports.com.au noticed my video on youtube and have sent me an 'upgrade kit' although I already have a V2 wheel. So the replacement PCB board will hopefully solve all my problems.
I also decided to get the Next Level Racing Keyboard Stand from Pagnian while I was at it, just to say thanks for their support.
 
SOLVED - As hard as this is to believe if you watched the video, the problem was actually with the Fanatec Club Sport Pedals. PagnianImports.com.au were great with support and sent me out a new circuit board and 'load cell', so I didn't have to wait for confirmation from Fanatec themselves. My wheel never quite felt right from the start but now with the replacement components for the pedals its tha shiznit. F1 2010 is awesome, so much more fun that GT but maybe that's because I drove myself mad trying to play GT with a faulty wheel. Anyway I hope this can help someone else one day.
 
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