TheNormsk
Premium
- 1,651
- Wisconsin
- BritGuyInUSA
I'm beginning to dislike my G29 but I really don't have the money to change it out to something else as it is only two months old and I have spent money on putting a load-cell brake pedal in it (which is good).
The reason I am disliking it is the dead zone in the middle of the steering. This was not an issue at first when I was new to GT7 but now two months in and as I start to drive Gr2 and Gr1/VGT cars I find the dead-zone is killing my driving. This was really apparent yesterday driving Gr1 at the new Grand Valley course.
What happens is, let's say I'm on the long, very fast T2 that is a right hander that then shifts left at T3 before the hairpin. The right to left happens at high speed (around 180mph?). The wheel is giving resistance as I hold it turned right and then as I turn to left of the T3 as I reach the dead-zone all resistance disappears and the wheel will suddenly turn quicker to the left as there is no resistance anymore. At that speed that can result in a lurch of the car to the left which, depending on where I am on track could be a spin, off into the gravel, or plant into a barrier. With slower cars it was not that much of an issue but with the faster cars any imprecision gets magnified on-track.
I had a stronger setting but I've "turned it down" to get less feedback (of which feedback is lacking in this game anyway) to try to reduce this on-off feedback lurch in the wheel. Currently my settings are:
1) Controller Steering Sensitivity: 4
2) Force Feedback Max torque: 4
3) Force Feedback Sensitivity: 4
Even though (1) above is supposedly meant for the wireless controller I've read that this also affects the wheel. I used to have this at 7 but I found that for these faster cars I do better with it turned down to 4 so things are less twitchy.
(2) FFMT: Instructions seem counter to what you would expect for MAX torque. It states lower values make the car more responsive and higher values duller. It does not describe the "feel" through the wheel. Is this worded to mean that if you have high values then the wheel puts up more resistance so it is slower to turn; hence making the car less responsive. So by having a lower value, the wheel is lighter in feel, meaning you can turn the wheel quicker causing faster handling car? So would this mean that if I dialed this down even lower, say to 2, then I would actually get very little resistance back through the wheel so the transition to the dead-spot would become less noticeable?
3) FFS: This claims to affect the resistance of the wheel when you start to turn in. This seems to be similar to (2) and would appear to impact the dead spot as well.
I'm confused as to how 2 and 3 interact. Googling around there appears to be many conflicting opinions on the best setting for the G29. Some talk about plugging it into G-HUB first and tuning it before plugging it into the PS5 but then I've read that G-HUB is only for PC and any tuning done there is not stored in firmware and is not carried over to the PS5 in console use.
So question, what should I be working towards to eliminate the dire resistance to no-resistance (dead-zone) transition when turning the wheel through the center spot?
The reason I am disliking it is the dead zone in the middle of the steering. This was not an issue at first when I was new to GT7 but now two months in and as I start to drive Gr2 and Gr1/VGT cars I find the dead-zone is killing my driving. This was really apparent yesterday driving Gr1 at the new Grand Valley course.
What happens is, let's say I'm on the long, very fast T2 that is a right hander that then shifts left at T3 before the hairpin. The right to left happens at high speed (around 180mph?). The wheel is giving resistance as I hold it turned right and then as I turn to left of the T3 as I reach the dead-zone all resistance disappears and the wheel will suddenly turn quicker to the left as there is no resistance anymore. At that speed that can result in a lurch of the car to the left which, depending on where I am on track could be a spin, off into the gravel, or plant into a barrier. With slower cars it was not that much of an issue but with the faster cars any imprecision gets magnified on-track.
I had a stronger setting but I've "turned it down" to get less feedback (of which feedback is lacking in this game anyway) to try to reduce this on-off feedback lurch in the wheel. Currently my settings are:
1) Controller Steering Sensitivity: 4
2) Force Feedback Max torque: 4
3) Force Feedback Sensitivity: 4
Even though (1) above is supposedly meant for the wireless controller I've read that this also affects the wheel. I used to have this at 7 but I found that for these faster cars I do better with it turned down to 4 so things are less twitchy.
(2) FFMT: Instructions seem counter to what you would expect for MAX torque. It states lower values make the car more responsive and higher values duller. It does not describe the "feel" through the wheel. Is this worded to mean that if you have high values then the wheel puts up more resistance so it is slower to turn; hence making the car less responsive. So by having a lower value, the wheel is lighter in feel, meaning you can turn the wheel quicker causing faster handling car? So would this mean that if I dialed this down even lower, say to 2, then I would actually get very little resistance back through the wheel so the transition to the dead-spot would become less noticeable?
3) FFS: This claims to affect the resistance of the wheel when you start to turn in. This seems to be similar to (2) and would appear to impact the dead spot as well.
I'm confused as to how 2 and 3 interact. Googling around there appears to be many conflicting opinions on the best setting for the G29. Some talk about plugging it into G-HUB first and tuning it before plugging it into the PS5 but then I've read that G-HUB is only for PC and any tuning done there is not stored in firmware and is not carried over to the PS5 in console use.
So question, what should I be working towards to eliminate the dire resistance to no-resistance (dead-zone) transition when turning the wheel through the center spot?
