La Sarthe , weather report and other " stuff "

Continuing on my current trend of "used cars"
View attachment 1307000
Just picked this up from Used cars...
When I was tuning this up for LeMans I just couldn't tarnish this beautiful car with aero (the wings make it look so ugly)
I will need to make some suspension settings from the stock settings as it does get some oversteer upon exit of turns.
At FM6 I was able to get 3 laps easy and if I was to go ¾ throttle I can stretch out a 4th lap.
I must be a little lucky tonight because this was my second dry race, cloudy but no rain, that being said I needed to pull all 7 laps.
Looking for my next used car....
While I can agree with you, that just the wings alone don't make the BB 512 look any better, the situation changes, when you put on the wide body and the second option for aero parts for the side...
This is one of the very few cars, where this combo( wide body+aero parts for the side) changes the whole look of the car drastically, the back half of the car looks competly different and turns it into a GT race car...(while on most other cars the wide body just makes it a little bit, hm, wider...)
It also gives you two more options for the rear wings than just that one generic rear wing that we get for every car...


And the downforce from the aero parts really does help on that car to reduce the overstear!

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Havn't done the Le Mans grind for a while in that car, but I will try again in the next days...I remember it not beeing the easiest car for that race...
 
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This is one of the very few cars, where this combo( wide body+aero parts for the side) changes the whole look of the car drastically, the back half of the car looks competly different and turns it into a GT race car...(while on most other cars the wide body just makes it a little bit, hm, wider...)
On your third photo, i can see where it looks more like the Gr. 3 car it should and i will not disagree with the use of aero handling the oversteer. I grew up in the late 60s early 70's and when i read the review of the 512BB in road and track I was hooked on its style and form so maybe it is that i can only see this car unblemished. The custom wing looks so bad when they had to attach it to the top of the rear bumper, one hit from another car and that is totally trashed in real life.
 
it’s a real shame we only have this Classic Alfa,

i am going to give the other Alfa (Giulia Sprint GT) a try...
18c1fbdf50144-27720657D01D4B63844.315B375F96579043_message_435542893065009_1701339426035.jpgWell it was a good day at Le Mans, I saw early rain show on the radar screen halfway into lap 2 and kind of knew that I wouldn't see any rain on the track all through the race. It made my run with the Alfa Giulia Sprint easy. With the Hp as high as I could get it I knew I would have to make the race at FM1 which gave me 3 laps.
Posting my settings below...
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Yesterday i did the Skyline GTR 2000 hard top swap.
Did some free runs trying to set it for la sarthe and then i did one race.
Early rain didn't help at all since i got only two laps in dry conditions.
Didn't manage a second one , just copy @bigmull settings without aero at all and ill test it today.
This car has crazy power and isn't wise to run at maximum power, after 6000 rpm he want to " kill " you.
Ill try it with and without any aero settings.
The bad thing on free runs is that you can't choose any FM settings except full power which is very different than FM6 for example and you need a race to evaluate,tyres , fuel consumption etc.
Tomorrow ( i hope) I'll be back with more informations .
 
The bad thing on free runs is that you can't choose any FM settings except full power which is very different than FM6 for example and you need a race to evaluate,tyres , fuel consumption etc.
I had same problem wanting to test and came up with a custom race setting against a really slow car, with the same tyre wear multiplier, same fuel consumption, didn't do weather in settings and it gives me a good idea in what I need in my tuning...
 
Since I found out recently that you always get CRB unless you ignore yellow flags, I finally started to do this race for grinding.

My observations & findings so far:


I don't wanna do more than one pitstop, so many cars I like can't be used here. For example, the Testarossa (with Praianos tune) eats tires like crazy, the Porsche GT3 RS can't do 3 laps even on FM6, and so on.

So I quickly figured out that I have to use lightweight cars, which are easy on tires and fuel.

I started with the Honda 2&4 and it's amazing for this race! Tyre wear is no issue at all, RS easily last the whole race.
Fuel economy is good and the power is ok even on FM6!
(I also tested the KTM X-Bow and the Radical. Both are easy on tires also and have good fuel economy but I had to limit output to 90% on both cars and even remove the racing exhaust and manifold on the X-Bow to get below 700pp. As a result they both feel rather dull at FM6)

Back to the Honda: As I said, fuel economy is very good. You can easily do 3 laps at FM1 without short shifting or coasting. Maybe even the whole race on FM6, but I'm not sure about this since I haven't tested this yet. 6 laps shouldn't be a problem but I'm not sure about 7.

So I was quite happy with the 2&4 but I soon found the one huge downside this vehicle has. On multiple occasions the weather looked ok at the end of the second lap (weather radar clear), still it started raining heavily early in lap 3. Depending on how early and heavily it started raining I made it past the first or second chicane on the straight but after that it was game over. The car is just too light and there's a point where you just can't drive more then 5 meters without spinning, while the AI with the more heavy cars can still drive (slowly) on racing tires. If this happens, there's no way to win and all you can do is quit the race.

To prevent this I usually do the first laps on RS and FM1 but as soon as there's the slightest hint of possible rain (usually at the end of lap 2 or 3) I pit, change to wets and, no matter if it really rains or not, I finish the race on wets and FM2 to FM4.

Yesterday I bought the Red Bull Junior and this one is also a good option for this race although it's considerably less powerful (and therefore more boring) than the Honda. But fuel economy is even better and I could do a whole race on Intermediates without a pit stop.

Are there any other cars that can do the race with just one pitstop even if you use wets or intermediates and rain doesn't come? I remember when I tried the Testarossa it looked like rain so I switched to wets. Well, rain didn't come and the car completely destroyed the tires within one(!) lap, lol.

And BTW, what's up with the penalties on this track? Sometimes I get one for going over the track limits slightly but then I sometimes miss my brake point and go right across the chicane and don't get any penalty whatsoever....
 
Since I found out recently that you always get CRB unless you ignore yellow flags, I finally started to do this race for grinding.

My observations & findings so far:


I don't wanna do more than one pitstop, so many cars I like can't be used here. For example, the Testarossa (with Praianos tune) eats tires like crazy, the Porsche GT3 RS can't do 3 laps even on FM6, and so on.

So I quickly figured out that I have to use lightweight cars, which are easy on tires and fuel.

I started with the Honda 2&4 and it's amazing for this race! Tyre wear is no issue at all, RS easily last the whole race.
Fuel economy is good and the power is ok even on FM6!
(I also tested the KTM X-Bow and the Radical. Both are easy on tires also and have good fuel economy but I had to limit output to 90% on both cars and even remove the racing exhaust and manifold on the X-Bow to get below 700pp. As a result they both feel rather dull at FM6)

Back to the Honda: As I said, fuel economy is very good. You can easily do 3 laps at FM1 without short shifting or coasting. Maybe even the whole race on FM6, but I'm not sure about this since I haven't tested this yet. 6 laps shouldn't be a problem but I'm not sure about 7.

So I was quite happy with the 2&4 but I soon found the one huge downside this vehicle has. On multiple occasions the weather looked ok at the end of the second lap (weather radar clear), still it started raining heavily early in lap 3. Depending on how early and heavily it started raining I made it past the first or second chicane on the straight but after that it was game over. The car is just too light and there's a point where you just can't drive more then 5 meters without spinning, while the AI with the more heavy cars can still drive (slowly) on racing tires. If this happens, there's no way to win and all you can do is quit the race.

To prevent this I usually do the first laps on RS and FM1 but as soon as there's the slightest hint of possible rain (usually at the end of lap 2 or 3) I pit, change to wets and, no matter if it really rains or not, I finish the race on wets and FM2 to FM4.

Yesterday I bought the Red Bull Junior and this one is also a good option for this race although it's considerably less powerful (and therefore more boring) than the Honda. But fuel economy is even better and I could do a whole race on Intermediates without a pit stop.

Are there any other cars that can do the race with just one pitstop even if you use wets or intermediates and rain doesn't come? I remember when I tried the Testarossa it looked like rain so I switched to wets. Well, rain didn't come and the car completely destroyed the tires within one(!) lap, lol.

And BTW, what's up with the penalties on this track? Sometimes I get one for going over the track limits slightly but then I sometimes miss my brake point and go right across the chicane and don't get any penalty whatsoever....
Using just IMs(also on a dry roads) is hard...maybe the tuned down DTM Audi GR2 can do the job...
 
Using just IMs(also on a dry roads) is hard...maybe the tuned down DTM Audi GR2 can do the job...
I'm aware it's not realistic but I really just do this race for grinding (not a huge fan of the track) and I just want to avoid any situation where I can't win.
With the Honda or the Red Bull you can do the whole race on IMs or even wets, even if it's completely dry. Again, not very realistic I guess;-)
 
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And BTW, what's up with the penalties on this track? Sometimes I get one for going over the track limits slightly but then I sometimes miss my brake point and go right across the chicane and don't get any penalty whatsoever....
I think it depends on your time through the sector. This is easily demonstrated on this track in a couple of places.

Ford Chicane - If you cut this at the end of the lap and make a b-line for the start/finish line, you'll incur a penalty because your took that section of track much faster and gained advantage. Thus, penalty.

At either 1st or 2nd Chicane on Mulsanne Straight, if you lose control and go off into the dirt and go slow through the sector and did not gain advantage. No penalty.

At least, that's how I've always perceived it.
 
I'm aware it's not realistic but I really just do this race for grinding (not a huge fan of the track) and I just want to avoid any situation where I can't win.
With the Honda or the Red Bull you can do the whole race on IMs or even wets, even if it's completely dry. Again, not very realistic I guess;-)
I gave it a try with DTM Audi...

IMG_1061.jpg


So no problem at all to win this race on IMs and a one stop strategy when it rains...
It was dry in lap1 and 2 and started to rain in lap3...wet roads in the second half of lap3 until lap 5...started to dry up in lap 6, still wet on the edges of the road, so you can drive there(especially on the long straights) to save tires...fuel management is no topic, the car will do more than 4 laps on FM1

Will the IMs last for 4 laps when it stays dry ?
Here is what they looked like after 2 dry laps:

IMG_1062.jpg

So yes, they will last, but there will be not much left on the rear tires...

But I am not sure if the car will be quick enough to win that race if it stays dry, because as downtuned as it is, it is nor very fast...270km/h was the fastest I got on the straights and I was batteling it out with Haywood in his Lamborghini for most of the dry laps, who always does a one stop strategy when it stays dry and usually finishes behind Portilla(Viper) and MacEwan(Corvette) in those races(when I remember that correctly).Best dry lap time above 4:20...it'll be definitly an interesting and challenging race without any wet roads

Here is the tune I used:
IMG_1063.jpg


Maybe fiddling around with the suspension and aerodynamic settings can hep with the tire wear and/or make the car faster...
I usually play on medium difficulty on that race, so going down to easy also might help to win when it is dry...
 
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Since I found out recently that you always get CRB unless you ignore yellow flags, I finally started to do this race for grinding.

My observations & findings so far:


I don't wanna do more than one pitstop, so many cars I like can't be used here. For example, the Testarossa (with Praianos tune) eats tires like crazy, the Porsche GT3 RS can't do 3 laps even on FM6, and so on.

So I quickly figured out that I have to use lightweight cars, which are easy on tires and fuel.

I started with the Honda 2&4 and it's amazing for this race! Tyre wear is no issue at all, RS easily last the whole race.
Fuel economy is good and the power is ok even on FM6!
(I also tested the KTM X-Bow and the Radical. Both are easy on tires also and have good fuel economy but I had to limit output to 90% on both cars and even remove the racing exhaust and manifold on the X-Bow to get below 700pp. As a result they both feel rather dull at FM6)

Back to the Honda: As I said, fuel economy is very good. You can easily do 3 laps at FM1 without short shifting or coasting. Maybe even the whole race on FM6, but I'm not sure about this since I haven't tested this yet. 6 laps shouldn't be a problem but I'm not sure about 7.

So I was quite happy with the 2&4 but I soon found the one huge downside this vehicle has. On multiple occasions the weather looked ok at the end of the second lap (weather radar clear), still it started raining heavily early in lap 3. Depending on how early and heavily it started raining I made it past the first or second chicane on the straight but after that it was game over. The car is just too light and there's a point where you just can't drive more then 5 meters without spinning, while the AI with the more heavy cars can still drive (slowly) on racing tires. If this happens, there's no way to win and all you can do is quit the race.

To prevent this I usually do the first laps on RS and FM1 but as soon as there's the slightest hint of possible rain (usually at the end of lap 2 or 3) I pit, change to wets and, no matter if it really rains or not, I finish the race on wets and FM2 to FM4.

Yesterday I bought the Red Bull Junior and this one is also a good option for this race although it's considerably less powerful (and therefore more boring) than the Honda. But fuel economy is even better and I could do a whole race on Intermediates without a pit stop.

Are there any other cars that can do the race with just one pitstop even if you use wets or intermediates and rain doesn't come? I remember when I tried the Testarossa it looked like rain so I switched to wets. Well, rain didn't come and the car completely destroyed the tires within one(!) lap, lol.

And BTW, what's up with the penalties on this track? Sometimes I get one for going over the track limits slightly but then I sometimes miss my brake point and go right across the chicane and don't get any penalty whatsoever....
A trouble free with one or none pitstop is at page 3 post 66 .
Its about Mazda LM 55 , use the same settings and forget pitstops or put FM1 and do just one pitstop for 7 laps race.
Don't be aware of the tyre wear in any case ( use intermediate from the beginning) if you're aiming for non stop race , cars with so much downforce doesn't affect from tyre wear at such low pp.
Its the perfect car for lazy griding at any level ,easy ,normal or hard .
To add some spice if weather permitted, i was chasing the faster lap .


The loss of CRB can't happen in any case , you just get 3 seconds penalty and thats all.
Penalties in general is a pain story in that race , if you lose your line and cut off the throttle or brake , you might not get any but if you keep going then you will receive one definitely.
What's important,is when you're on dry tyres with rain and loose control, you might receive a huge penalty ( usually more than 10 seconds) or two or three at the same time.
Once i got more than 30 seconds penalty for one off but was on the finish of lap at the chicane and multiply i guess for 2 or 3 penalties at once .
 
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@Batschisane52 : Thx for testing! I don't have this car. But I think someone drives it in the race, I think it's the one I usually pass before the straight.

@smoothbore12 : Thx for the suggestion, unfortunately I don't own this car either (but it's just 1kk so I could get it).

So you even get CRB if you ignore the flags? Interesting!
And regarding penalties: Wow, didn't know you can get that much. Most I had so far were 2 seconds and usually it's just 0.5.


I just did the race with the BAC Mono. Nice car, drives very well on this track. It's not as fuel efficient or easy on the tires as the Honda but still good for 1 stop. Did 3 rounds on FM2 and the remaining 4 on FM4 with a bit of shortshifting & coasting. Car is quite fast, still hits 275kph on the straights on FM4.

I really think the game is mocking me with the weather. End of Round 2, clear skies, clear weather radar. Still started raining early in lap 3. Luckily just light rain. Pitted at the end of lap 3 and switched to inters. Ofc that was exactly when the rain stopped xD
 
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.......

@smoothbore12 : Thx for the suggestion, unfortunately I don't own this car either (but it's just 1kk so I could get it).
Its nothing to get one and if you watch some vid from the finals you will get one for free if am not wrong.


Edit
@bigmull settings without any aero and gearbox is on my own.
Have more power than what he suggests and need help from the TC to stay safe.
Weather make me to do an unneeded pitstop ( i saw rain coming but....) but i managed to " shoot " one lap at FM1 .
Not happy with my driving,need more time to adapt with the car and his behaviour but that's my fault not settings fault.
Anyway this is how things went
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Ill try it again .
 
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Finally i did another run using my settings for 2000 hard top.
The " trick " to go faster was to pull as far i could the 1st gear and get closer the rest to avoid changing before 6000 rpm .
The weight at the back and RM tyres help to have a bit better acceleration and avoid to enable so much the TC that drops the turbo pressure that goes up and down continuously till grip returns .
Its very noticeable when you have gearing not close enough when sudden power arrives after 6000 rpm on the first 3 gears and you can easily loose control .
Putting TC at 3 for example creates a " delay" which is very characteristic.
Anyway , i use FM6 with 3 and 4 laps stint with one pitstop.
Need to wait at 7th lap and after all didn't have the fuel for the 8th.

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FM6
ABS
TC at 2
Since i use buttons for brake and throttle ( old dog , buttons for everything ) TC becomes a necessity cause throttle is an on -of situation for me.
 
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Today I used my engine swapped Pantera, a car I like a lot!
The car is tuned for racing with a low end torque supercharger but no permanent upgrades:


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I started on RMs and FM4. As usual it started raining quite a bit at the beginning of lap 3 . I started spinning out at the end of the lap and crashed into Barry R. twice but made it into the pits. I switched to inters and did the remaining 4 laps on FM6.
This cars requires a lot of active fuel management for a single stop race. I had to shortshift, coast a lot and always use the highest gear possible.
Finished the race with 6% fuel left and almost dead tires.

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After this I tried the Group B NSX:

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Started on RMs and FM2 which should be good for 3 laps. Unfortunately it already started raining at the end of the second lap, so I pitted and switched to Inters for the remaining 5 laps which I did on FM6. Rain stopped at lap 5 and I finished the race with plenty fuel left but completely dead tires:

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BTW: This car has amazing brakes, I could get way past my usual braking points!
 
Interesting picks @Sir Crashalot , thanks for your info, didn't try any of them yet.
Today i was dealing with Supra 3000 gt 88.
Can't bring it in account yet but ill keep on with it.
More information tomorrow with my early morning coffee.
 
As i wrote ,i was start dealing yesterday with the Supra 3000 gt .
Was on usd section and i pick two of them.
After adding almost everything i end up without aero in the back ,only diffuser and keep the medium turbo.
Finishing first lap i realise with so much car in front of me that i was on hard level 🥴 from previous 1 hour race at Spa.
I thought it will be a close call but the weather had easier plans for me.
On FM6 can do 3 laps only .
Rain shows on radar and pit end lap two for intermediate tyres.
Rain keep for 2 laps but start raining again on lap 5-6 and make my job easier, do easy that i didn't a 7th lap even on hard level.
Of course ill be back with more details on settings, i didn't even record a lap this time .
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Another older car does Le Mans...

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Had to do a full tune on this, didn't change any of suspension settings. The XNR gave me three good laps at FM6.
There is one big issue and it's with the tyres, they are so narrow and with careful tuning of suspension may tame the unpredictability of the car, I even spun it once in the dry period!
As for the race it started unusual, I didnt see any rain until near end of lap 4 (pitted again for tyres this time) then it came down hard and drove carefully as the XNR is skittery with narrow tyres.
Completed race in the usual 6 laps when it rains hard. Will try to tame this critter...
 
( later in the evening...)
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I take out my 63 Corvette for a run at Lemans, gave it a full tune up just a little adjustments in the suspension mainly ride height and spring. I find that it has excessive wheel spin on exits of most turns which makes it Twitchy I need to adjust the limited slip differential to see if I can tune it down where it's a little bit more controllable.
With a full tune and this is still NA, I did not put the supercharger on it, I'm getting an easy three laps at FM 6.
This race was a dry race, I had sunshine all up until sector in lap 5 and it was suddenly cloudy but no rain there was maybe one or two blue spots and the radar but nothing to cause rain and wound up doing seven laps to win the race.
I do have a question though how is it that the AI can barely tap you and knock you spinning but if you were to tap them the same way it would not affect them. see video below.
 
Yesterday i did the Skyline GTR 2000 hard top swap.
Did some free runs trying to set it for la sarthe and then i did one race.
Early rain didn't help at all since i got only two laps in dry conditions.
Didn't manage a second one , just copy @bigmull settings without aero at all and ill test it today.
This car has crazy power and isn't wise to run at maximum power, after 6000 rpm he want to " kill " you.
Ill try it with and without any aero settings.
The bad thing on free runs is that you can't choose any FM settings except full power which is very different than FM6 for example and you need a race to evaluate,tyres , fuel consumption etc.
Tomorrow ( i hope) I'll be back with more informations .
I tried it without aero and it didn’t really do that well. I have been looking at the current tune and have managed to reduce the front tyre wear,the rear is another matter,they will last the race(RH) with about 40% wear on the rears. I think it’s just that it lays down so much power through the rear tyres that it is inevitable that there will be more tyre wear. I can’t quite get 7 laps of fuel going hooligan mode but I think it’s possible to do 7 laps if you take it easy.

 
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I tried it without aero and it didn’t really do that well. I have been looking at the current tune and have managed to reduce the front tyre wear,the rear is another matter,they will last the race(RH) with about 40% wear on the rears. I think it’s just that it lays down so much power through the rear tyres that it is inevitable that there will be more tyre wear. I can’t quite get 7 laps of fuel going hooligan mode but I think it’s possible to do 7 laps if you take it easy.


That car put the power instantly after 6.500 rpm , was a big headache for me to cool it down a bit.
You put ballast in front ( almost always do the same ) , i put it in the rear and RM tyres help reduce the " bang " he does when reaches at power .
The biggest help came from gear box in my case with long gearing in first gear and the others follow close ( as could be).
In rain conditions he can spin even on 4th gear .
The reason i didn't put aero on the back it's only matter of view .
And since the problem is mostly on low gears ,i don't think that the wing could help on that matter, of course at higher speed could make things better or more manageable i can say .
Difficult car anyway and wasn't even at 700pp, perhaps at top settings could hit over 360 or more in straight line but there's no parachute to stop it 😂

Also take note that i wasn't use ASM & countersteering ( both runs mine and yours) which i sense that it could have better behaviour with them.
 


Did the race two times today and to my surprise both were almost completely dry. Just a few drops at lap 3 in the first race and at lap 5 in the second one but not enough to have any effect.

First race I did with the Fairlady Z33. Tuned for racing but no permanent upgrades except Stage 1 weight reduction.

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Did 3 laps on FM4 and 4 laps on FM6, all on RM tires. Rather heavy fuel management was reqired and the car felt very dull, especially on FM6. Speed is ok (reached 300kp/h+ on FM4) but the car just doesn't feel very powerful and overall doesn't feel good on this track.
A rather boring drive, wouldn't choose this car again.

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For the second race I chose the engine swapped Tundra, also tuned for racing and also no permanent upgrades except Stage 1 weight reduction.

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I drove the Tundra with A/T cause it seems this the only option for this car IRL.
Did 3 laps on FM2 and 4 laps on FM5, all on RH tires. Strangely the first stint didn't require fuel management while the second one did, although just a bit. Overall excellent economy for such a heavy car and A/T. Tire wear is also ok and the brakes are really good!
The car feels good to drive, lots of power even on FM5.

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Overall this was probably the most fun race I had here so far!
I mean, imagine driving your Gr.4 racing car at Le Mans and then this happens😄


 
Did the race 3 times today.

First was a bit of an experiment and I already knew it wouldn't turn out great.
I bought the Porsche 962C yesterday and it is indeed possible to get it below 700PP.

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Did the first 3 laps on RH and FM1. Rain started at the end of lap 3 so I switched to inters and continued the race on FM1. Fuel economy is amazing! I guess you could even do 7 laps without refueling on higher FMs, but believe me, you wouldn't want to. The car feels incredible lame and doesn't want to rev up, even at FM1. 250 max on the straights and I reached 4th gear only twice on each lap. Guess I should have changed ratios, but anyway this car is clearly not intended to run at this PP range.
Luckily the AI did really bad and I could make this a 6 lap race. Really didn't feel like doing another round with this car.

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Next was the Porsche 911 RSR '17, which needs just a bit of power restriction to get below 700PP on RH tires.

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Started on FM3, did 3 laps. Few drops of rain around the middle of lap 3 but nothing serious so I pitted, refueled and renewed the tires (although it wasn't really necessary) and did the remaining laps on FM5. No more rain. Did a bit of fuel saving on lap 6 'cause I wanted to do a fast lap 7 on FM1. Unfortunately I got 2 penalties, missed a brake point and crashed, so no fast lap:-(
Car feels good overall. Not outstanding but solid in all aspects.

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For the third race I chose the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Final Rally car. Didn't change anything except for the transmission to get a bit more top speed.

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Started with RM tires on FM3 which would have been good for 3+ laps. But it already started raining at the end of lap 2 and weather radar didn't look good so I entered the pits and switched to inters. Continued on FM6 cause there was a chance for 5 more laps. Rain was heavy on laps 3&4, almost too much for inters, so I was sliding a lot. But hey, this is a 4WD rally car, so sliding is ok and always controllable. Rain stopped at lap 5 and since it was clear that there was no need for a seventh lap I switched to FM1 for the last lap.
Car feels great, by far my best choice today! Very good acceleration, good brakes and easy to drive. I somehow like this sturdy, very hard suspension Rally cars usually have.
At the middle of lap 6 I was surprised to see cars in front of me. This was the very first time I was overlapping cars on this race. Although they all lapped themselves back when I parked my car right before the finish line, grabbed myself a smoke and waited for the timer to run down.

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@Sir Crashalot you're wrong about 962 Porsche.
It was my first " griding mule " for that race long time ago before i get my hands to the other two , R92CP and 787.
You just have wrong settings, as i remember you must keep the stock gearbox which is perfect even if you don't use 5th gear and as i see you have it.
This car is able to run under 4.00 minutes at FM1 and do a 7 lap race on FM6 but i agree that you don't need that . Later on the day ill post my settings to give it another chance.
I've done so many races on this one that he started loosing hp even on regular oil change, he has cool sound and the stock gearbox short shifting by its self ( kind of ).
It might be not as fast as the top guns but is definitely a " griding mule " at La Sarthe.

Most of group C cars have a " broken" pp system that doesn't works properly.
I mean one digit up and increase the pp ,one digit down and still increase the pp etc.etc.

Ill post my settings to test them and you will change your mind about it 😉
Two settings i remember right now , stock gearbox and medium rpm turbo.
The rest will follow.
 
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Here is the proper setting for 962 @Sir Crashalot and for every newcomer that wants to enjoy with this ridiculous cheap car ( compare to what he offers) .



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Lap times at dry track should be around 4.00 and after get use to it ,under 4.00 around 3.55-3.557 . or less .
Also its very " safe " with intermediate tyres on wet track.
Try it and you will change your mind ..... period 🤣 .
Am waiting for your impressions.
 
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For the good old times i run two times my old dog 962 .
First race was a mess with two stages of rain that fall quite hard so leave me no room for " shooting ".
The second hab rain but on late stage ( after the half of 3rd lap ) but was ok .
What was strange is that instead of lap at the final screen , was time .
It's fault anyway both of them because neither of the represent the real time when you're waiting to end the race at 6th lap.
Don't know when it happens but i didn't notice that for example the other day at Spa.
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Waiting the timer while in front is the 2nd AI that was lapped before Porsche curves
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And here is a sample for @Sir Crashalot cause he touche the limit of insult 😂 by saying that group C cars are not suitable for 700pp .
In fact they aren't, but they do the job just fine and save a lot of trouble in some cases.
 
@smoothbore12 : I'm a bit confused. You do 300+ while I barely reach 250. You said you're on stock gearbox, I was on stock gearbox also. Does the turbo make that much difference without effecting PP? Do I overlook something here?

Will test your settings over the weekend and see how it goes.
 
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