Levitt1991's guide to making a 1/4 base tune.

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levitt1991
If anyone finds my little guide helpful, I will volunteer to teach 1 person everything I know about drag racing. I will show you how to find flips, using the max speed, suspension tutorial, using weight and downforce and also tips and tricks. I will also help your tree and how I get a good tree tips. If anyone is interested send me a pm on here or add my psn with a message (add my psn without a message and I will not accept). My psn is same as this (levitt1991).

I see a lot of people asking for tunes on here, there is no problem with using other people's tunes but you will not learn how to tune future cars.

If you can't tune and and nobody will give you a tune for that car you're pretty much out of luck.

I'm hoping this little guide will help people who are starting out to learn to tune and gain experience rather than jumping in a lobby and everyone is using same tune.

SUSPENSION

RWD:

Ride height: Both front and rear as high as possible with the exception of a couple of cars.

spring rates: Spring rates can vary but for the sake of this we'll make front and rear both soft (all the way to the left)

Dampers: These can vary but I usually like like dampers all on 1

Roll Bars: Same as dampers but I like to use them both on 1

Toe: you never want toe in the rear so leave it at 0.00 and for the front I like to use between -0.50 and -0.65 depending on the car.

Camber: same as toe you never want any in the rear so leave it at 0.0 and for the front I like to use between 1.5 - 4.5 depending on the car.

4WD:

Ride Height: You generally want a slammed 4WD which means the car is as low as possible (all the way to the left)

Spring Rates: I usually have hard at the front (all the way right) and soft at the rear (all the way left)

Dampers: Same as RWD, all on 1

Roll Bars: Same as dampers, all on 1

Toe: you don't want any toe at all front and rear should be 0.00

Camber: Same as toe, front and rear should be 0.0

TRANSMISSION

Rwd:

Right this is where people usually struggle with a tune. I'll tell you how I usually make a base tune.

FINAL GEAR: Firstly look at the the final gear. If it says 2.000 all the way to the left I usually start off with 2.900, this is a good number to start off with. If it says 2.500 then put your final gear on 3.400 so I always make my final 0.900 to the right of my final to the left.

If the car bogs, meaning that when you set off the car loses too many revs and the car loses power, I'm not going too deep into it explaining the power band but if your car bogs in 1st gear then move the original final gear the the left by 0.100, for example if you started off using 2.900 and the car bogged then move the final gear to 2.800.

If the car bounces, meaning it's hitting the Rev limiter then it's either a quick shift, meaning as soon as you set off in 1st you shift to 2nd or even 3rd sometimes then you need to move the original final to the right by .100, for example if you started with 2.900 then move tour final to 3.000. Some of the high powered RWD cars like vipers and corvette like to set off in second gear.

MAX SPEED: ideally you want the max speed to be the lowest number (all the way to the left) as it creates less gear lag in turbo aspirated cars.

REMEMBER: SET YOUR FINAL AND THEN YOUR MAX SPEED IN THAT ORDER BEFORE YOU TOUCH YOUR GEARS

GEARS: This is what I usually like to start off with

1st: all th way to the left
2nd: move 20 clicks to the left from the original position
3rd: 30 clicks to the right of the original position
4th: 3/4 to the right
5th: all the way to the right
6th: all the way to the right

If it's a high powered RWD car then set your 2nd all the way left and move 3rd and 4th a little bit to the left.

4WD: pretty much set out the same way as RWD.

4WD Torque Split: This varies with car you are using but you can't go wrong with a 45/55 split.

REMEMBER: ONCE YOU HAVE SET YOUR GEARS, MOVE YOUR FINAL ALL THE WAY LEFT.

Hope this helps, if you have any problems then leave a comment and I'll try to help you. I made this to help stop cluttering of people asking for tunes on threads that aren't about tunes.

I usually tune on ssrx offline so generally you want your car to top out just before 400m as indy where everyone drags is about 370m long.

In the garage where you have your driver stood next to your current car at the bottom it will say max power@ for example 7,500 rpm. That my friends is the shiftpoint which can turn a brilliant tuned viper into a Nissan micra, so take good care in remembering it, I usually write it in the setting sheet, good luck tuning fellas.
 
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Great write up levitt. Hope it helps a lot of people out there.

If I could just comment on one thing, it would be the shift point.

The point of max power is just that, max power. It is very rare for that to be the true shift point, especially with a stage 2 turbo. One needs to analyse the power curve and torque curve further to reach the conclusion of the shift point.
Does the power curve drop away heavily after max power or is it a steady decline ? This knowledge could then show that the shift point could be 500 rpm up to 1500rpm beyond the point of max power.
 
Great write up levitt. Hope it helps a lot of people out there.

If I could just comment on one thing, it would be the shift point.

The point of max power is just that, max power. It is very rare for that to be the true shift point, especially with a stage 2 turbo. One needs to analyse the power curve and torque curve further to reach the conclusion of the shift point.
Does the power curve drop away heavily after max power or is it a steady decline ? This knowledge could then show that the shift point could be 500 rpm up to 1500rpm beyond the point of max power.

I use the max power to find the area of the shift point, usually the optimum shift point is within a couple of hundred revs of the max power. This thread was kind of a starting point for beginners, then as they gradually get more confident with there tuning skills, they will be able to do stage 2 tuning, learning about the powerband.

Beginners generally shift at redline so I just tried to point them in the right direction lol
 
I like this base tune guide. For RWD spring rate, I usually go with minimum on the front and maxmimum (or 2.25 off maximum) on the rear. Other than that, great job! :)

Edit: My spring rate setup is just a personal preference. You can experiment with this too for RWD cars.
 
thanks levitt1991 if you have psn add me mine is koldbloodedman86 thanks
No problem. If you have any more problems, let me know.
I like this base tune guide. For RWD spring rate, I usually go with minimum on the front and maxmimum (or 2.25 off maximum) on the rear. Other than that, great job! :)

Edit: My spring rate setup is just a personal preference. You can experiment with this too for RWD cars.
I use soft springs in say an acr just for preference but sometimes if I'm really in a tuning mood I will sit for an hour testing spring rates lol. Usually the only cars I jump straight hard rear are old muscle cars and wheelie tunes. Thanks for the feedback, just trying to help the community :-)
 
Hi Levitt1991,

For spring rates I do a little equation which is;
(Max-Min) x weight repartition + Min.
With a example it will be better to understand:
For example the rear spring is between 2,50 and 11,50 and there is 48% of the weight at the rear.
(11,50-2,50) x 0,48 + 2,50= 6,82 for the rear Spring.
 
Hi Levitt1991,

For spring rates I do a little equation which is;
(Max-Min) x weight repartition + Min.
With a example it will be better to understand:
For example the rear spring is between 2,50 and 11,50 and there is 48% of the weight at the rear.
(11,50-2,50) x 0,48 + 2,50= 6,82 for the rear Spring.
Never tried that equation, another decent setup for springs is for the front, 1/4 of the way between the left and middle, and for the rear a 1/4 from the right and the middle, all my tunes are base suspension but I make a pretty decent transmission. Also this is just base tunes, the equation could be pretty effective but this is kind of like a starter guide, if people are having trouble.
 
Never tried that equation, another decent setup for springs is for the front, 1/4 of the way between the left and middle, and for the rear a 1/4 from the right and the middle, all my tunes are base suspension but I make a pretty decent transmission

This is what I use to tune my cars on gt6, maybe you can adapt it for gt6 or borrow some idea (because from Forza). It is based on real life ( F1 ).
This tune base is for drifting but as many people are confuse, for drifting in fact you are looking for a lot of grip.
http://web.archive.org/web/20130312...orzamotorsport.net/forums/thread/4869639.aspx
 
This is what I use to tune my cars on gt6, maybe you can adapt it for gt6 or borrow some idea (because from Forza). It is based on real life ( F1 ).
This tune base is for drifting but as many people are confuse, for drifting in fact you are looking for a lot of grip.
http://web.archive.org/web/20130312...orzamotorsport.net/forums/thread/4869639.aspx
Do you drag race or drift because tbh, I have absolutely no knowledge of drift and don't think I ever will. This thread is for drag tunes but if you put my transmissions in a drift car I'm pretty sure it would be pretty quick round indy lol
 
Do you drag race or drift because tbh, I have absolutely no knowledge of drift and don't think I ever will. This thread is for drag tunes but if you put my transmissions in a drift car I'm pretty sure it would be pretty quick round indy lol
I'm not doing drag racing but I thought that my spring rate equation might work, I really like Tandem drifting no points(300-500HP CH) and grip(420-450pp CS) on Nurb and Mount Panorama in Initial D style.
Goin to try your transmission ;) .
 
I'm not doing drag racing but I thought that my spring rate equation might work, I really like Tandem drifting no points(300-500HP CH) and grip(420-450pp CS) on Nurb and Mount Panorama in Initial D style.
Goin to try your transmission ;) .
If your on short circuits without long straights a stretched out 1/4 transmission gives you the acceleration out of corners, if you like long courses like spa a good old 3k transmisson does well.
My ford gt on monza (no chicane) hits the 270's on the straight and nurbergring I could probably get over 280 on the straight, not done nurbergring with it though.
That's with a 3k transmission.
 
Do you drag race or drift because tbh, I have absolutely no knowledge of drift and don't think I ever will. This thread is for drag tunes but if you put my transmissions in a drift car I'm pretty sure it would be pretty quick round indy lol
That's a common misconception, most drag transmissions are a tad too aggressive for circuit or drift. Setting up the LSD can be very problematic.
 
That's a common misconception, most drag transmissions are a tad too aggressive for circuit or drift. Setting up the LSD can be very problematic.
That's usually why I lose lol, If I do circuit I usually have a drag transmission and I reset suspension and LSD to default. Works well for offline racing. That's only racing I do. Only for some cars though, some are a pain so I have to reset transmisson to default as well.
 
This is my lamborghini aventador suspension, not a base tune but it's just to show that if something doesn't look the same as others, it's not always slower.
 

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This is my lamborghini aventador suspension, not a base tune but it's just to show that if something doesn't look the same as others, it's not always slower.
Just out of curiosity how are you testing your suspension? At route X? Are you tuning off your ghost.
 
Yes If I like the car I will always do a lap to run my ghost
Ah ok. Just an FYI, if you already know sorry and disregard.

A High/high suspension will always look faster than a low/low (awd like your 700 works best to test this since they really aren't effected by suspension height) because your suspension changes the viewing angle when lining up to the start/finish line. A high suspension sits further back from the line than a low.

The ram 1500 is almost a 1/4 car off the line with a high right height :lol:
 
Ah ok. Just an FYI, if you already know sorry and disregard.

A High/high suspension will always look faster than a low/low (awd like your 700 works best to test this since they really aren't effected by suspension height) because your suspension changes the viewing angle when lining up to the start/finish line. A high suspension sits further back from the line than a low.

The ram 1500 is almost a 1/4 car off the line with a high right height :lol:
The look on people's faces when you pull up next to them in a max/max awd and beat them lol
 
Just a quick question on muscle do you flip it higher then non-muscle cars? I'm clueless when it comes to flipping them.
 
Just a quick question on muscle do you flip it higher then non-muscle cars? I'm clueless when it comes to flipping them.
I think the lowest number on the final for most muscle is 2.500-3.000 if it's 2.500 try 4.000 flip on lowest box and if it's 3.000 try 4.500
 
wow, nice tuning guide :bowdown::bowdown: lol i just looked at this and i gotta say good job i will use this i need to help but i already have a lot of drag cars but good job...anyone still active these days lol.
 

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