Logitech DD11 G Pro wheel + drivehub = AMAZING!!!!

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Edit for clarification, and reordered the post to make more sense.

BLUF/TDLR; drivehub is now fully compatible (Yes, trueforce is fully working on most titles, more on that in the next post)with all 3 Logitech G Pro wheel bases, wheels and pedals....with the newest beta firmware on the drivehub, along with whatever necessary peripheral needed for emulation and security checks (Hori controller when connecting to a PS4/5 and xbox controller when connecting to an xbox) the drivehub allows us consumers to connect our setup to either console or the PC...not only that, the drvehub has an fully supported and working accessory USB port that can be expanded via USB hub...Using the accessory plug, you can now plug in and use several different supported shifters, handbrakes, and pedals to create your own personalized ecosysterm instead of having to forced into a single company solution ecosystem. I am really think this is a huge game changer for the entire sim racing and driving community, and maybe I am just being too excited about this, but I am honestly suprised that my comments in gtplanet and on reddit haven't really gained any traction....not that I am doing this for any kind of attention towards me...I am simply trying to blast the virtual horns across the sim community about a brand new way to approach console based sims and games, and use the consoles just like we would with a PC (for the most part).

A little about me: You can skip this partt if you want...Please keep in mind whenever you read any of my opinions on most stuff is that it is strictly based on my own opinion. Also, pleaser keep in mind that I consider myself a slightly below to maybe average skill level driver/racer., in all honesty, this base, wheel and pedal configuration is way above my skill level, but that never stops me from having fun and enjoying cool big boy toys lol...Also, just wanted to state this part since I have been talking about the drivehub probably way more than I should be (just absoultely excited that drivehub was able to convert what most likely would become a very expensiver paperweight into exactly what I think it is supposed to be, regardless if I connect it to a PC, PS4/6 or xbox. I have absolutely 0 background in hardware and software engineering/development. Just a random dude that did some google-fu after screwing up and ordering the wrong version of the base because I relied on the pictures in the ad instead of translating the ad from Japanese to English. I had 0 way to return the product to the vendor because the product I ordered is exactly what I received...just one of the many things I love about the Japanese culture is that they are pretty big into enforcing responsibilities...Basically the cultural thought process on stuff like this is that they have established standards and hold all parties to the same standard of accountability...Why would the vendor end up having to lose money, time and energy dealing with a returned item that is 100% as described just because the consumer screwed up or changed their mind after unboxing the item....you took it out of the package so it is now 100% yours, end conversation, no further actions taken by consumer or vendor.

Figured I would make a video explaining and showing it in action so you can see it with your own eyes. Just keep iin mind that I am absolutely terrible at this YouTube stuff but I do hope you enjoy!!!...if noting else, maybe you can sit back and watch me make a total foul out of myself lol.

Here is part 1... It's just a quick background on my wheel and it shows which drivehub firmware to use:
Logitech DD11 G Pro wheel + Drivehub = AMAZING!!! PT 1

Here is part 2: This one shows that the wheel is FULLY WORKING!!! It's absolutely amazing!!! This video uses GT7 and shows it being fully supported and registering as the pro wheel. Trueforce works and it does not show up as a G29.
Logitech DD11 G Pro wheel + Drivehub = AMAZING!!! PT 2
 
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Quick update:

My setup, DD11 base. pro wheel, pro pedals, hori pad fps plus and the drivehub has been working perfect in the PS5 version of GT7 since I started trying it out for off and on for the past 24 hours. Have not had to try any of the weird configuration tricks and procedural steps like those that had to be done in the past. My setup is having the exact same FFB cap that the official PS4/5 version of the Logitech G Pro racing series. Sorry, I can't remember the exact FFB cap that PD has imposed specifically on the G Pro series...I want to say it is around 8nm but don't quote me on that.

The only game that I have tested on the PS5 is GT7. I will follow-up at a later time with an update on how it responds to the PS5 version of ACC and Wreckfest.

After playing around with this setup for a while, I got curious to find out how my setup would work and respond using my Xbox series x. It would honestly take way too long to describe all the testing, along with lots of button pushing trial and error during my experience with most current Forza 8 from the game pass.....

I'm not smart enough to have any basic idea of where the issue lies, but in most updated version of the xbox, forza, g pro firmware, and drivehub firmware, something is causing the wheel to be, in my opinion, 100% unusable as it stand right now at 21:31 on March 1st, 2024 in Japan. You can try it out if you want, just understand that you will most likely end up wasting a lot of time and energy and end up walking away frustrated. Oh ok, I will go ahead and describe one thing I found....using the OLED screen on the wheel base to adjust the brake force causes an inverse action on the brake pedal....set it to a lower weight setting, the brake pedal gets heavier...set to a heavier weight and the brake pedal gets lighter.

After giving up on forza. I decided to check out dirt rally 2.0 since it's on game pass and the Logitech settings websites lists this game as setting the trueforce audio to 1000. Loaded up the game and tried out free roam. 100% exact opposite experience compared the the current forza experience. In dirt rally 2.0, the trueforce was immediately active and ready to go at the exact moment the game gave me control of the car. in my opinion, this setup feels exactly like what it would feel like to use the official xbox supported drivehub.
 
Beta 9 fixed the issue with the DD11 and Forza. The dd11 is now fully working on PS5 and Xbox
 
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I have been using the Drivehub for many years now with both PS4 and PS5. It's a great box of tricks! I feel like people who own one are part of a secret club, like Fight club......and you know what the 1st rule of fight club is? :lol:

But seriously, I don't think the likes of Sony, Microsoft and the hardware manufacturer's such as Logitech, Fanatec, Thrustmaster etc are too keen on this device as they will want you to buy there own brand shifters, pedals & handbrakes and stay within there eco-systems.

I'm using Heusinkveld Sprint pedals, an Aiologs sequential shifter, an Aiologs handbrake and also a VNM H-pattern shifter (The Drivehub only seems to recognise one shifter at a time or it will get confused, so I just need to unplug the sequential shifter and plug in the H-pattern but that's no big deal).

I have been waiting for the G PRO and T818 to be supported by the Drivehub as I'm still using the Thrustmaster T300 base. Now that they both are, I have decided to go for the G PRO instead of the T818 due to the Trueforce. I mainly play GT7, ACC and Dirt Rally 2 and have read that Trueforce makes a big difference to the overall FFB.

Incidentally, Amazon UK have some used, like new PC versions of the G PRO for just £680 so I'm about to buy that, saves me £300+ seeing as I don't even need the PS5 version due to having the Drivehub.

I can't wait to finally use a DD wheel on the PS5. I have stayed away from Fanatec as don't like the way they do things, there customer service issues, stock issues and they always charge extra for things that should come as standard. Plus, the CEO comes across as shady to me lol.
 
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@Tom Watkins I replied to your message over in the drivehub thread.

I'm loving my setup and the amount of freedom I now have. I almost went with Fanatec but I couldn't justify buying into a company that doesn't care about it's customers.
 
Tock
What exactly does this mean for the ps5? Can we now use all 11nm on GT7?
Click to expand...


Edit: short answer is yes.



At the time I wrote that, I was talking about it showing up as a G Pro in GT7 instead of a G29. That means that the trueforce is fully supported. At that time, there was no option to get the full 11nm torque due to a cap created by PD.


Fast forward to maybe 2 weeks ago, the Drivehub team created a special mode in the drivehub that is able to defeat the PD cap and allow the user to get full 11nm torque if they want. I have an ok understanding of how it works, but I'm just a customer and don't think it's my place to talk about it.

Podger wrote instruction on how to activate it and how to set the torque. I can help you activate it if you can't find his instructions but again, I'm just a customer so I don't want to speak for him or his team.
 
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Yes No
Edit: short answer is yes.



At the time I wrote that, I was talking about it showing up as a G Pro in GT7 instead of a G29. That means that the trueforce is fully supported. At that time, there was no option to get the full 11nm torque due to a cap created by PD.


Fast forward to maybe 2 weeks ago, the Drivehub team created a special mode in the drivehub that is able to defeat the PD cap and allow the user to get full 11nm torque if they want. I have an ok understanding of how it works, but I'm just a customer and don't think it's my place to talk about it.

Podger wrote instruction on how to activate it and how to set the torque. I can help you activate it if you can't find his instructions but again, I'm just a customer so I don't want to speak for him or his team.
Click to expand...
I believe I may have seen those instructions. If I remember correctly, it’s a processes that must be repeated every time you want to play. Is that correct, or is it a set it and forget it situation? For the life of me I can not seem to locate those instruction again.
 
Tock
I believe I may have seen those instructions. If I remember correctly, it’s a processes that must be repeated every time you want to play. Is that correct, or is it a set it and forget it situation? For the life of me I can not seem to locate those instruction again.
Click to expand...
You have to set them each time you turn your playstation on since it reboots the drivehub. You will also need to redo them if you reboot the drivehub for any other reason. It is not permanent, no clue if drivehub has any plans to make it more permanent or not.


I'm on vacation right now (wasn't feeling great so I'm relaxing). So I have to go off memory to do this, but should be right.

1. Turn on the PlayStation and use the drivehub to make the connection with the wheel

2. Open GT7

3. press the PlayStation or whatever it is called on your wheel to bring up the PlayStation dashboard... You don't need to go to the home screen, just the quick access menu that comes up on the bottom of the screen... Or press the center bottom button if you are using VR2. This is just a way to get started while preventing accidental button pushes.. . It's not mandatory but is helpful.

4. Press both of the center buttons on the left scroll and right scroll buttons (the 2 scroll wheels you use to change and adjust the multifunction display(MFD) in the game while driving.... Example would be using the left scroll to go to the weather screen on the MFD and using the right to adjust the radar distance. Each scroll has a center button, press both of them and hold them.

5. Hold the 2 center buttons until you see 2 LEDs display on the right hand side of the RPM gauge on the drivehub. The first LED will light and then the second one will light up a few seconds later.

6. Once you see the 2 LEDs on the right side of the drivehub RPM gauge, let go of the 2 buttons.

7. Use the left scroll wheel on your wheel to adjust the amount of LEDs that light up on the left side of the RPM gauge.

7a. 1 LED equals 110% FFB
7b. 2 LED equals 120% FFB
7c. 3 LED equals 130% FFB
7d. 4 LED equals 140% FFB
7e. 5 LED equals 150% FFB

Note: 5 LEDs (150%) will give you the full 11 nm torque. Drivehub is programmed to stop at 150% and will not be able to go over this level, even if you try to continue adjusting past the 5 LEDs.

8. Once you have set the LEDs to the amount you want, press and hold the 2 center buttons until the 2 LEDs on the right are extinguished (not lit anymore)

9. Once 2 LEDs on the right side of the drivehub RPM gauge are gone, you can now let go of the 2 buttons.

10. The drivehub is now setup for the amount of custom torque that you set in step 7.

Now go into the game and have fun! I do recommend keeping the controller vibration below 125 and also recommend putting the FFB filter to 1... Yes this does sound backwards of what the description says about the FFB filter but I have found that setting it to 1 does get rid of most of the wheel oscillation when driving a high downforce car in a straight line.... You will need to play around with it and other settings until you get whatever feels best for you.

Hope this makes sense. I have no ties to drivehub or Logitech so I could very well be wrong. Please feel free to ask if you want my opinion on this or if you want me to clarify on any of the above steps.
 
Can anyone tell me if tthe clutch pedal in GT7 has the same principles as in Forza Motorsports? Like grind gears and power shifting? If not engaged.
 
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I have the Logitech G Pro Ps5 steering wheel. How does Drive Hub behave now with Forza Motorsport?
The last time I tried Drive Hub on my Xbox SX with Forza Motorsport the steering wheel moved very badly. If I remember correctly, I installed beta 12. But my experience was very bad with the G Pro steering wheel.
It has improved?
 
There were issues with forza but it was fixed in maybe beta 13 or so, can't remember which one. It works very well with the pc version of the wheel, I'd imagine it would work well with the PS5 version also.
 

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