Logitech G27 align problem!

  • Thread starter subyhau
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eric_enano23
Well as the title says, I have the align problem, I had the optical wheel encoder broken so I replaced it with the brass one (http://cmlaserservice.com) but now I connect it and it turns all the way to the right, then to the left and then it stops, and all the leds are on, everything works except the steering wheel, and also I think it turns more slowly, like it doesn't have power enough. What should I do? :( I thought this was a easy fix. :( Please help!
 
You should check that the new encoder does not touch the optical sensor! the encoder wheel should be very close tothe optical sensor, but at the same time it shouldn't touch it at all and if it does it won't calibrate the steering wheel!
Second thing, some times you have to tighten the camlaser encoder wheel to the motor shaft!
 
Yup! I knew that it should not touch the optical sensor because the wheel turns, Now I got that fix! But know I have a second problem... A friend of mine borrowed me his playseat evolution, and I cannot put the pedals of the g27 in there! The plastic of the pedals are thin enough so that the thing that holds the pedals does not take the pedals, so it's not even holding the pedals. :( I even push the clutch and the hole pedals move because the thing doesn't hold the pedals tight :( Does the playseat come with another of those pieces or something? What should I do to put my g27 pedals in place and hold on tight!? Or does my friend didn't give me something?

Here are some pics so you guys can understand better, Sorry for my english it isn't my native language.

9858206274


9858239346


Well I don't know how to upload pics, here are the links

http://www.flickr.com/photos/102662273@N04/9858239346/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/102662273@N04/9858206274/
 
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I'm glad that my advices helped you, mate! now for the second problem of the Playseat, I advise you to open a new thread or to check an already esistente thread, then you can ask for the help!
 
Velcro can be attached to the playseat pedal base and the bottom of the pedal box. You can get the stuff at any Lowe's, Home Depot, Wal-Mart or similar store. When I bought my playseat, they included more than enough strips of Velcro for just that purpose.

Of course you can also hard mount the pedals by drilling some holes but I don't know if your friend would appreciate you drilling holes in his playseat.
 
Well guys, I was playing gt5 did like 5 laps in Tsukuba and it was all nice, but then I started driving it hard, I was drifting, and suddenly the wheel was super misaligned :( And then I unplug the wheel, and plug in back again and It did'nt sync like if it has the wheel encoder broken. What should I look at? It was working everything right! :( I feel like I have bad luck :(
 
Well guys, I was playing gt5 did like 5 laps in Tsukuba and it was all nice, but then I started driving it hard, I was drifting, and suddenly the wheel was super misaligned :( And then I unplug the wheel, and plug in back again and It did'nt sync like if it has the wheel encoder broken. What should I look at? It was working everything right! :( I feel like I have bad luck :(

The brass encoder should be a tight fit. So strange that it goes out of alignment again.
It should be stuck to the motor axle at least so that it measures that rotation.

Check this guy's video tutorial on how to replace the encoder with the CMlaserservice brass encoder.

ps. Put the encoder wheel as close as possible to the black sensor, not the white one. Just don't let it touch anything, as it should still turn freely. Make sure that you tightened all the screws properly and have them all in the right place, plus make sure the black bracket with the teeth on it is at dead center as he shows at the end of part 2.


 
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Well I know what is my problem now, the brass wheel it isn't that tight enough so when it turns it moves and that causes my missalignement, should I glue it with like epoxy to the motor shaft so it doesn't move at all?yeah I saw that video to do my installation, but I was driving with everything off and noticed than when I turn hard the brass move and that is what causes the problem :( I think i am gonna Glue it with metal epoxy to the shaft. Is it a bad idea?
 
Well I know what is my problem now, the brass wheel it isn't that tight enough so when it turns it moves and that causes my missalignement, should I glue it with like epoxy to the motor shaft so it doesn't move at all?yeah I saw that video to do my installation, but I was driving with everything off and noticed than when I turn hard the brass move and that is what causes the problem :( I think i am gonna Glue it with metal epoxy to the shaft. Is it a bad idea?

I dunno, never used epoxy. Personally I would put a small dot of 1 second glue on there.

This a quote from youtube, cmlaserservice channel:

Eddie de Beer 1 dag geleden
I just installed the encoder wheel, which I received 2 weeks ago (it took approximately 3 weeks for delivery to Canada, as predicted on the CML site). The wheel was slightly loose, but secured easily with a drop of Loctite 401, as Glenn advised. I cannot speak highly enough of the customer service they provide - responses are prompt, peronalised and helpful. My G27 is amazing; better than new, thanks to Glenn Baucom!
Beantwoorden ·
 
Hey guys, I'm just wondering if my wheel got screwed up even more or it's just the encoder.

Story:
On Monday, what basically happen was; I was trying to take apart my G27 down to where the encoder was to tighten the screw like usual. I tried taking the stupid cable plug out but I accidentally cut off the black plug. It didn't calibrate; the shifter was blinking and the rev indicator was just on. Didn't have time to do soldering, because I was getting ready to move to a new house yesterday. On Friday (at the new place), I decided to get it soldered and put it back together. Started playing (rFactor) on Saturday, it was out of alignment again when I did few drifts so took it apart again the day after (today).

This time I decided to see if the encoder was damage; seems like it was so I just unscrewed the motor stuff, unplug the FFB cables, and unscrewed the encoder board. I found out that were was apparently another screw under the board which was loose so I decided to tighten it. For the encoder, I did a stupid move where I just got glue stick and put it at where the cracks are. I put it all back and the calibration work until it hit full lock on the final side as it didn't go back to the middle. I wonder if it's the encoder or the wire. The soldered wire did the calibration process fine when I didn't touch the encoder. Maybe the glue on the encoder is the reason for not going back to the middle, since the glue is on the wheel lines. Luckily I'm also getting the CMS encoder wheel. Just to say one more time just in-case, the encoder wheel had a crack.

EDIT: Cleaned my optical wheel to get rid of the glue on the grooves. Calibrated fine but still having align problems so luckily I got the CMS brass wheel for order.
 
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According to Glenn from Chiang Mai Laser Service via Email

"A few things to note when installing...

1. Install it collet side first.
2. Firmly, but gently push against the flat side with one finger. When it gets to the point where you cannot push it anymore, please use your old encoder to push it further onto the motor spindle.
3. Do not hold it by the sides when pushing. It is solid brass, but it is thin in the slotted area, and may bend out of shape.
4. I've tested it on my machine. But, if yours is too tight, then use fine grit sandpaper rolled up on a toothpick and gently remove a little of the metal. It won't take much to get it to fit, so be careful.
5. Push it as close to the black signal receiver as you can without rubbing against the PC board that sits on top. The metal is slightly thicker than the plastic part it replaces and therefore needs to be close to the receiver. I liken it to shadow puppets...close to the light source, fuzzy image...closer to the wall, sharper image. This will guarantee alignment on the first try."
 
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