Thanks for the response!
The cap is lost... but I was able to fix the board and the unit now works perfectly!
On top of the issues with the detracing and depadding at the power-pins, I found the same issue in another spot.. On top of that the fuse was bad ( finally repaired my voltmeter so I was able to test for continuity and test the other components on the board )..
My resoldering of the lifted traces didn't originally hold up because I didn't see that the pad had lifted too - the color of the board is very similar to copper and in one spot where I scratched off a bit of the trace it looked like I went through the copper... that's how close the color is and I have 0 deficits in terms of color-blindness .. most men have issues seeing the full range of colors, something I am not afflicted with and the color was still next to identical to copper - which is one of the reasons why it'd flicker and the poles just kept coming out so I scratched off a bit of the lead which was connected to the pad before it was gone and I also scratched off a bit of the global ground and soldered the pins to the newly exposed copper.
I replaced the cap with a 4.7µF 08x04 cap instead of 06x03 ( because Farads on caps is simply how much energy they can store and Voltage is the level of insulation - something I completely lapsed about - so it didn't really matter which one I put so long it has enough energy and the 10µF caps I ordered haven't come in and 10µF is the max or close to the max size for small surface mount caps )
I bypassed the fuse for now until I can locate a replacement, or I'll use an equivalent I have on hand - I soldered headers to make swapping in a new fuse easier.. I have been running the wheel as is ( I run all my electronics on UPS' and the fuse on the board was likely to prevent a surge from thunderstorm or if the power supply broke - I am planning on putting a fuse in but for now the unit is working perfectly from what I can see - I still need to test a few other games - only tried spin tires and the force-feedback is lacking severely in that tech-demo )
The fuse is ( Photo taken with my cheap usb microscope - wording is so small that it is difficult to read with the naked eye and the ps part wasn't legible to me otherwise ): ( JET Fuse 1A 395 Series PS E )
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zyyvozggg04oa5a/JET Fuse 1A 395 Series PS E.jpg?dl=0
For future reference, here is a photo of the board ( top only - I'll get a bottom photo later so people with the same issue can see how I fixed it ) and I am waiting on a G27 wheel to come in ( got it for $40 shipped and it needs a calibration wheel by the description of the problems the seller expressed ) at which point I'll probably sell the momo wheel along with a wireless xbox 360 wheel with pedals.
Board:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/otpbgk0ncjlxurw/20170327_054852.jpg?dl=0 - Note: The brown wire on the left is the bypass lop for the fuse which I will replace as soon as I find an equivalent or the same one. The chip on the right looks dirt because I swiped over all of the solder-joints on the board which looked off such as those appearing to have cracks, cold-joints, etc... and I didn't have a good tip for the chip so I had to go over a few times and used a bit of flux to help, not to mention I used the heat gun in that area so the board darkened a little. C7 is the replacement cap and I'm not happy about the joint I made because it is a larger cap ( ordered wrong size so I am trying to get rid of them ).
I also noticed there are a lot of, or it looks like there are a lot of, missing silkscreen labeled caps, etc... not entirely sure what they're for; also, until I replace the fuse I'm keeping the cover off and for additional precaution I have in-line switches for power adapters so I have it hooked up so I can turn the power on / off with a simple switch...
