Looking At A Bike, Need Some Help...Or Better Yet, A Full Education

[Joey D]

So in an attempt to get into shape and maybe get my asthma in check somewhat I feel like I should get a bike. Kari has been bugging me to get one for a while too so I figured maybe I should start looking. I also figure it'll be much easier on my bad knees then running...plus I hate running anyways.

I have literally no idea about bike brands other then Haro (mostly because of Dave Mirra and Ryan Nyquist), Schwinn and Huffy (I had one as a kid). I also have no idea what all the types of bikes are, there are ton of frame choices I see, along with sizes, types, and whatever else. I know there are a lot of bike riders here on GTP so I'm hoping someone can give me a hand figuring this all out.

Basically what I want is something I can take to a local park and ride paved bike trails and dirt paths. I'll never carry anything on the bike, nor go really fast or tackle massive hills. I do want gears and I'd like hand brakes on the thing too, those bike you have to pedal backwards or whatever with aren't that great. I'm also looking to spend really no more then $500 as my employment right now is kind of eh at best right now.

I'm not sure how I'd transport the thing either, a roof rack for my car is about $800 which is way to much. Are those hatch racks any good?

Any help you can off will be great! Along with any other things I'll need to enjoy a biking experience.

 

[Type S Tony]

Buy a moped Instead then take out Gym membership

 

[opelgt1969]

Buy one of these (I think it will fit in the back of the "Mini") Just up your insurance. You know broken stuff left leg, right arm, skull!
On a more serious note I've seen pictures of where you live after you get out of the driveway is it too far to ride to get to a park or small subdivision that doesn't have much traffic until you could find a bike rack. As for what type of bike I don't know all I own is a 20 year old sears 10 speed 26" all terrain bike, not a real good bike to own living in a mountain area.

 

[Joey D]

Buy a moped Instead then take out Gym membership

I have a car, why would I need a moped? If I was going to be a bike with a motor it'd be at least 600cc, be paint bright blue and have a giant R6 emblazoned on the side.

Buy one of these (I think it will fit in the back of the "Mini") Just up your insurance. You know broken stuff left leg, right arm, skull!
On a more serious note I've seen pictures of where you live after you get out of the driveway is it too far to ride to get to a park or small subdivision that doesn't have much traffic until you could find a bike rack. As for what type of bike I don't know all I own is a 20 year old sears 10 speed 26" all terrain bike, not a real good bike to own living in a mountain area.

I don't own the Cooper anymore so I have more room in a car. My house backs up to a state park so I will have a place to ride around the house, but I'm more concerned when I want to change it up a bit. I have a metro park pass and there are some great trails at the park that's about 40 miles away, it's also fairly close to Kari's house too. It's just getting a bike from here to her house...and I'm not keen on riding 35 miles .

 

[TB]

As I still love my GT after 12 years, I'd highly recommend them for casual riding. That said all suggestions offered will be based on their current lineup.

If you have back issues, you'll likely want to stick with what's called they're calling an "Urban Comfort" bike as you sit more upright than you would with a standard mountain or road bike. Picture for reference:

That is the Nomad 3.0 in Gun Metal and I'm not about to look over the parts and pieces as I don't know anything about them anyway. Linear pull brakes and Shimano shifters is about as far as I get before it's all a blur.

If your back is alright and/or you don't like the look/feel of a Comfort, you could go with the more traditional Urban City or Urban Sport categories. The two notables from these categories are the Transeo 4.0:

and the Traffic 5.0:

Given your comment about "paved bike trails and dirt paths" I'd lean more towards the Transeo for no other reason than the tires (at least the ones shown as stock on GT's site) are better suited for the task. That's not to say that the bike shop you purchase it from won't go and put something else on instead, of course. Scheels like to put Bontrager tires on most of their bikes. Basically what you're going to want to look for to enable both paved and light dirt trails is a tire with a solid center bead (for less rolling resistance on the trail) and decent tread on the outside (obviously for traction in the dirt), like the Schwalbe Land Cruiser that's listed on the Transeo.

Edit: Or a unicycle.

 

[Joey D]

Thanks for the info TB!

My back is pretty bad from sitting in front of a computer for hours on end on really crappy chairs for the past 5 years during my working career, there was also the incident with a Snap-on tool chest that left me in the hospital with a really jacked up back in Houston. However, I think I can made get over it and I think being active will really help. I mean I can backpack with a light load without a ton of problems (except being sore for a long time afterwards ).

I do like the look of the Transeo though, looks like it's a pretty good fit for what I'm looking for as a dual purpose. And I guess it never really occurred to me that I could swap the tires . Just like a car I suppose.

Is it worth it to get a bike with disc brakes? Or is that something that can be added in the aftermarket if I deem it worth it?

 

[TB]

I do like the look of the Transeo though, looks like it's a pretty good fit for what I'm looking for as a dual purpose.

Like I mentioned - just because GT's site says it comes with a certain tire mounted doesn't necessarily mean it will have that tire in the store, especially if the shops around you are like Scheels where they build the bike piece by piece instead of ordering 10 pre-assembled. Look for a solid bead and side tread and I'm sure you'll be fine.

And I guess it never really occurred to me that I could swap the tires

In the 12 years I've owned my GT, I've changed the tires 4 times - stock tires removed to use road tires, back to the Velociraptors as I knew I was going to be riding in a lot of dirt, back to the slicks and then replaced them with new slicks. Changing them out more frequently than that would, for me at least, get old very quickly.

Is it worth it to get a bike with disc brakes? Or is that something that can be added in the aftermarket if I deem it worth it?

I'm sure there are people who won't take a bike without discs but those are the people flying down the mountainside. Linear pull brakes have more than enough stopping power for in town riding.

As for an aftermarket disc setup, you'll have to find that out from someone else, although I'd guess it would involve new rims?

 

[Machate-man]

I'm sure there are people who won't take a bike without discs but those are the people flying down the mountainside. Linear pull brakes have more than enough stopping power for in town riding.

As for an aftermarket disc setup, you'll have to find that out from someone else, although I'd guess it would involve new rims?

Usually, if you are able to lock your wheels with pull brakes, then you likely dont need disks.

Disks also:
1. Need to be cleaned often for max stopping power
2. Have the posibillity of warping from light impacts
3. Can be quite expensive(?)

Also; I have a question: Is the purpose of slicks for:
1. Increased Grip?
2. Reduced Rolling Resistance?
3. Reduced drag?
4. Lower weight?
5. Something else I'm not aware of

*I'm talking about those 700c tyres

 

[TB]

Is the purpose of slicks for:

2. Reduced Rolling Resistance?

This. The Velociraptors are outstanding on dirt but on paved trails I was constantly pedaling just to keep up with my wife while she was coasting. The resistance became even more apparent after a trailer holding 50 pounds of kids was added to the mix.

 

[Horde_R35]

This. Only 7,499.00€

The best you can have! Cannondale Jekyll Ultimate 2011!

Or you can check for GT, Kona, Giant, Scott, BH and many many more at good prices (the low category of corse)!






EDIT:

Or for road going: SuperSix Hi-Mod Ultimate with the awesome price of $13,299

 

[Barra333]

After market disc brakes are not going to be worth it. It would end up costing a lot relative to the original cost of the bike - most likely new wheels, rotors, etc. and the frame has to be a slightly different width (at the hubs) so you may not be able to upgrade anyway.

I dont know what sort of car you have, but as long as whatever bike you buy has quick release wheels, you will probably be able to get it in the boot (trunk, hatch, whatever you want to call it). I used to drive one of these ('86 Ford meteor) and had no trouble getting a mountain bike in it just by taking the front wheel off.

 

[W3H5]

If you just want a bike for casual riding I'd suggest a 'shopper/ pleasure ride' type bike. They're simple to maintain and have a good riding position. Most quality manufactures have a few in their lines. For road riding (not off road) I'd recommend the following parts -

- A wide, comfortable gel seat to keep your bottom from bruising.

- Regular 'horse shoe' or 'V' brakes which are inexpensive and easy to maintain.

- Standard road tyres for comfort and price. Road slicks aren't necessary unless you want to go really fast. Off road/ all terrain tyres are also available on most bikes.

- Lever gears controls are better than grip-shift controls in my opinion. They seem to be more reliable. Most manufactures use Shimano systems for their base models.

I often ride to work, it's a 26k round trip so I had to customise my bike. I started with a standard mountain bike and bit by bit added slick road tyres, a hard, slim seat, a top of the line chain (chewed through 2 in a year) and upgraded gears and brakes and a good set of ram horn bars. It's a hybrid but almost a full on road bike other than the frame and looks similar to the Cannodale in hoard's post. The original bike and the parts still amounted to less than the price of a new road bike by, say, Giant or Specialized.

 

[Rotary Junkie]

@the entire disc brake thing...

Now, it's been a while since I actually really rode anywhere on any bike but I noticed discs to have no noticeable effect on braking ability and actually seemed harder to modulate. Have yet to meet a set of "linear pull" brakes that wouldn't lock both ends (front resulting in a stoppie obviously) at pretty much any speed. If it's simple and results in the bike stopping when you tell it to, it's a good thing, no?

 

[lbsf1]

This is the bike I have.

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/gt/tempest-20-2009-jump-bike-ec017361

Its a good "starter" mountain/trail bike. It has lots of hardcore features, however at a budget price. Mine has been very reliable in the year I have had it.

 

[Neal]

I'd personally recommend a mountain bike with disc brakes for the kind of riding you're talking about and definitely get a bike with 26" wheels. Urban and hybrid bikes and good but you'll have more fun on the dirt trails with a mountain bike and I don't really think it would hold you back much on paved roads, besides you're using it to get fit so a bit more work is all good. I do agree that tyre choice makes a big difference to how the bike handles and how easy it is to pedal, I currently have a Maxxis CrossMark 2.1" on the back wheel as it's fast (easy to pedal) due to the ridge of raised centre knobs but still offers loads of grip in the turns. Saying that I wouldn't worry too much about tyre choice when you're choosing your bike but if you really do want different tyres than the manufacturer supplies the bike shop should swap them for minimal or no extra cost.

I use a boot/hatch rack and although they aren't quite as ideal as a roof rack they are good if you get a half decent one...my brother's bike is worth £2,000 and he uses one so they must be fine!

As far as bike brands are concerned the biggest and possibly the best is Specialized but all the other big brands are good (Cannondale, GT, Giant, Trek etc). Of the Specialized models I'd recommend the Hardrock Sport Disc which is listed at $600 or if you can't find it at the price you want then the Hardrock Disc listed for $520. They've both got the same frame but pretty much all the components on the Sport are significantly better so imo it is much better value for money.

Don't forget you'll need a helmet at the very least but cycling gloves and padded cycling shorts (baggies not lycra ) will make for a more comfortable ride.

Also MTBR.com is a good source of user reviews if you want to look anything up.

Also also I've PM'd you a bike book which at the very least should be amusing.

 

[boiltheocean]

Usually, if you are able to lock your wheels with pull brakes, then you likely dont need disks.

Disks also:
1. Need to be cleaned often for max stopping power
2. Have the posibillity of warping from light impacts
3. Can be quite expensive(?)

Only point 3 applies to disc brakes, 1 and 2 are problems associated with linear pull rim brakes.

After market disc brakes are not going to be worth it. It would end up costing a lot relative to the original cost of the bike - most likely new wheels, rotors, etc. and the frame has to be a slightly different width (at the hubs) so you may not be able to upgrade anyway.

As long as the hub has a rotor bolt pattern on it and the frame has disc mounts, and most MTB's do, then it won't cost any more than buying the brake. Hub widths are industry standard.

@the entire disc brake thing...

Now, it's been a while since I actually really rode anywhere on any bike but I noticed discs to have no noticeable effect on braking ability and actually seemed harder to modulate. Have yet to meet a set of "linear pull" brakes that wouldn't lock both ends (front resulting in a stoppie obviously) at pretty much any speed. If it's simple and results in the bike stopping when you tell it to, it's a good thing, no?

Discs, especially Hydraulic disc brakes have a load more power than any linear pull rim brake can provide. Whenever I hear people complain about discs with no modulation they have only just switched to them and aren't used to the power yet, that takes a few rides to work out.

 

[Joey D]

Thanks for all the advice guys, I went looking at bikes this afternoon while Kari and I were out and about. I really liked the Trek 3700 Disc when I gave it a test ride around the store. It's more of a mountain bike but after looking around at the bike areas near me almost all of them are dirt, so I'm guessing I'll be doing more of that then pavement.

I'm going to do some more shopping over the weekend and hopefully I can come up with something!

 

[Jim Prower]

Joey, my brother works for a bike shop, and, really, you don't need something SUPER expensive for trail riding. I'd suggest a used road bike, with cyclocross tires and canti brakes for the rough stuff. I own an old Bianchi Forza (Biopace gearset! EEEP!) and use it for short trips between my apartment and the area around it, including my parent's house. An old Bianchi would do good...As well, i HAVE seen Peugeot bicycles at my bro's shop's big used bike sale, so that might be fun to pick up, just to say you own a Peugeot.

Cannondales, Giants, and Specializeds are also pretty good bikes. If you're going to do a lot of paved riding, I'd avoid a softtail mountain bike. You'll lose a lot of your pedaling power in the suspension travel, and if you buy one with complex suspension geometry that "doesn't," the gearset is often so low you can't get much of anywhere with it other than on steep trails. In other words, buy a roadie for flat ground, buy an MTB for the really rough stuff. of course, you could buy one of those "cruiser" type bikes, but...who wants to be seen on that? Those are kinda a hipster or really ole fogie deal. A factory bike, or a tricycle likewise, would make you look like you go 7-3 at the Ford plant. They do make "touring" bikes and bikes that are in-between proper MTBs and proper roadies, which may suit you to a tee. However, gravel trails are nothing to even road race tires so long as you're not dive-bombing curves.

You could try a recumbent, but that's a learning curve, and they look weird, so if you're not ready to commit to that kind of bike...well...

Also, get a good helmet and proper biking shoes. Yes, there are shoes made specifically for biking...and they're comfortable enough that I wear mine around all the time, at least, when I don't need steel-toed shoes. I shouldn't have to explain the helmet, but get one that's comfortable, and airy. Also, replace it after three years or any major impact (cross my heart it never happens,) to stay safe.

Also, buy your bike from a reputable shop that'll fit it to you. You've no clue how much better it feels to ride a bike that fits you. And get the water bottle holder. Always good to have water.

 

[MagpieRacer]

Go for a Trek 6300 or a Genesis Core 30, have great experiances with both.

 

[Robin]

Something equal in price and spec as that Trek from Specialized would be a good brand to consider 👍

 

[Neal]

Thanks for all the advice guys, I went looking at bikes this afternoon while Kari and I were out and about. I really liked the Trek 3700 Disc when I gave it a test ride around the store. It's more of a mountain bike but after looking around at the bike areas near me almost all of them are dirt, so I'm guessing I'll be doing more of that then pavement.

http://www.jacksbikes.com/contents/media/trek_3700disc_2011_black.jpg[img]

I'm going to do some more shopping over the weekend and hopefully I can come up with something![/QUOTE]

Trek's are good and the 3700 disc is very similar to the Specialized Hardrock Disc, it's actually pretty similar to what I've got in terms of components and northing has gone wrong with mine in 2 years. In case you're tempted I wouldn't get a bike at a lower price point than this as that's when you start getting rubbish components which will wear out way too quick.

 

[Keef]

I would suggest a bike with front suspension, and a damped seat. Avoid rear suspension. The extra structure adds too much weight, and the compression of the suspension absorbs some of your pedaling effort, making your job that much more stressful. But font dampers and a damped seat really do save some fatigue on your arms and butt.

Lately I've been wanting to buy a lightweight mountain bike, but replace the tires with some semi-slick tires. Enough for dirty, but smoother ride and grip on the street.

 

[boiltheocean]

Avoid rear suspension. The extra structure adds too much weight, and the compression of the suspension absorbs some of your pedaling effort, making your job that much more stressful.

Certain rear suspension linkages can absorb your pedalling effort, however rear shocks such as the Fox Float RP23 with ProPedal can counter-act that or different linkage designs such as the DW-Link avoid that all together. If your prepared to pay the money then weight isn't an issue either.

 

[Jim Prower]

Still, when you get into THAT price range, you tend to get into bikes that are geared so low they're only good for one thing - true off-roading. Unless the trails he's riding (and he's a novice, so it's doubtful,) are singletrack through extremely rough terrain, or he's racing, he doesn't need to spend that kind of money.

It's like lifting a Wrangler on 33s so you can drive it on gravel roads. A hardtail MTB will work fine, especially with a cushy seat.

 

[Keef]

Yeah, the only designs I've ever ridden were cheapo models, and years ago to boot. I've been wanting to start riding again because driving is getting so expensive. I need to find a cheaper way of having fun than driving everywhere, and I miss going on long rides.

Now that I'm looking around, it looks like Joey and I would be into the "hybrid" type bikes. I fell in love with road bikes back in high school, but the complete lack of offroad-ability make them impractical for what I would probably get myself into.

 

[boiltheocean]

Still, when you get into THAT price range, you tend to get into bikes that are geared so low they're only good for one thing - true off-roading.

Why would expensive mountain bikes be geared any lower that entry level mountain bikes that most people buy to just ride on flat bike trails?

 

[Jim Prower]

Simple - it gets you up steep trails faster, it's lighter (some have the front chainring removed, and you don't need to be doing 25-30 miles an hour on dirt, anyway, although some DH bikes reach those speeds purely by gravity.

On the other hand, when you're riding on streets and gravel bike paths, it's nice not to have to whirr around on the pedals like a madman, while still moving at a fair clip. Most of your Huffies and other entry-level bikes of the like (many of those in the "Crossover" category,) have road-sized front chainrings, while MTBs geared for racing have the large chainring about the size of a small chainring on a road bike, at least, from what I recall.

Also, they do make dirt tires for road bikes...

 

[boiltheocean]

Simple - it gets you up steep trails faster, it's lighter (some have the front chainring removed, and you don't need to be doing 25-30 miles an hour on dirt, anyway, although some DH bikes reach those speeds purely by gravity.

It doesn't get you up a steep trail any faster. It makes it easier but not faster. A bike geared lower isn't any lighter than a bike geared higher. Depending on your skill level and confidence there is every need to be doing 25-30+ mph on dirt, mostly for fun.

 

[Keef]

I just remembered I have a BMW friend who works at a bike shop. Hmm...

 

[TB]

You guys sure are at the far end of the spectrum. Joey is simply looking for, more or less, a point A to point B bike and you have him scaling the Matterhorn.