LSD, Brakes & Data logger discussion

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Grippy

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Here, I primarily discuss rear wheel drive cars only; simply because that is what I tune regularly. And in km/hour not miles/hour. Thanks

LSD, the Limited Slip Differential is designed to limit loss of tyre-to-the-ground traction by controlling the differences in rotating speed of the left and right wheels that are fixed at the opposite ends of the axles linking up to the centralized LSD. Without an LSD your car is normally using some form of an open differential. This open differential does not restrict wheelspin very well if at all and will always be worse for hotlapping due to its inability to effectively reduce wheel speed differences in the left and right wheels under power. Now, when you push a powerful car to its limit, by hotlapping around a corner, an open differential lets the wheel with least resistance have even more power from the engine(this is unfortunately the wheel making least friction with the ground). This results in wheelspin and likely a smoking tyre(extreme loss of grip). That's how cars work and it's an inefficient design. Slap on a mildly locked LSD and U-turns are slightly disadvantaged but wheelspin is drastically reduced and you do get faster times around every corner because of this.

1. What I want to know is which wheel is most likely to get you drifting around a corner, by spinning? 2. Which wheel will get you understeering more if there was wheelspin. Does understeer come mid or late apex and from which wheel? Why? Inside or outside wheelspin? Do they change on flat and lightly banked corners?


Ive been using the data logger and tuning a whole slew of cars. I've got set 1 to RPM, steering angle, wheel speed RL, wheel speed RR, Accelerator in that order (top-down). I haven't been able to tune the LSD in combination with the suspension in a satisfactory manner. I AM looking for the bleeding edge on my competition, the "physics exploit" of LSD tuning, if you will. SPECIFICALLY if I take a LEFT corner, in the data logger the best I can do across my cars, I still get the inside RLwheel spinning around 20-30km/hr faster than the outside RR wheel on some corners, corner exit (unwinding the wheel) where I'm always near/at full throttle. Track was Bathurst. At first glance this is obviously not good for traction and hotlaps. How can I change this to the perfect, ideal of having the outside wheel spin ~20km faster than the inside wheel, possibly deifying laws of physics IRL and exploiting in-game physics to turn corners faster?

You can say "tighten the diff" but the problem there is going to be massive understeer, exponentially with every tighten of the diff and bad response especially on the turns up the mountain and very quick The Esses at Bathurst, which is one of the points you can gain allot of time.

I came to this conclusion after finding badly tuned Lsds seeing wheespin difference in excess of 60km/h (usually smoke occurs) and tuning that out to qhere I am now. So far found 20-30km/h on certain corners was all I could reduce it to without seriously hampering it in the turns and just getting slower hotlaps because of a more locked diff.


As for brakes I remember a few times I practiced trail braking, in certain cars I borrowed it was a success others difficult I'm sure the LSD decel value is responsible along with a bit of brake bias but I do not remeber what. Can someone explain this how to tune all rwd cars for trail braking technique?
 
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@Grippy could you post your problem car specs and setup and I'll look them.
GT6 has few things what you have to remember, deceleration side of lock is important also during normal cornering, it's not only "braking" where it activates locking.
 
@Grippy could you post your problem car specs and setup and I'll look them.
GT6 has few things what you have to remember, deceleration side of lock is important also during normal cornering, it's not only "braking" where it activates locking.


Ferrari 250 GT Berlinetta bought new, CS tyres
Mode: Time Trial (save best lap to get data logger info I ran smooth 2:35 lap, not pushing to get smooth lap)
Track: Bathurst (no track settings changed, should be low grip I think)
Driving options: no aids but ABS1
stock: hp, power, weight, no oil change or anything

Custom trans reaching ~250 km down back straight high speed 1st(maybe bogs) & 2nd gears

Standard Brakes 6,4

Suspension Custom
ride height 110 , 110
Springs stock
DampersC 3 , 3
DampersE 6 10 , 5 9

ARB 7,7
Camber 0.2 , 1.5
Toe -0.16 , 0.24 0.22

Trans: do in order:
FG RIGHT, Max speed left
1, 2.499
2, 1.708
3, 1.318
4, 1.070
5, 0.880
FG 4.010


LSD 8,5,18

Tuned it myself in the span of an hour but that's what I remember, I'll edit this out later to confirm it's correct. Yeah the car is $7.5 million lol

Now solving the car is part of the problem, but it's not the cure, though I can dissect, reverse-engineer things, always it's better to get some understanding of what's going on. Would be appreciated to know inner workings of the game itself and how physics is calculated. Especially how the LSD and weight transfer is simulated.


Edit: not confirmed setup

Bold confirming is beginning done. Whatever is Bold has been added to replace the existing value next to it and the leftover has been filled in and show my original 006 setup (yes I have a version number for all my tuning sheets). Again, things that are undefined are unchanged from what you get when you buy the car. Reset everything to stock before applying this setup and do trans last.

Notice: I tested this tune only on Bathurst(offline Time Trial) and with no change to track settings (means you should be using low grip), Also no aids but ABS1
 
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@Grippy gearbox+final needed also, it's having big role on LSD setup finalising,

Just by looking numbers I see a one/few "problem", just to test: (truly throw from wind)
- Drop to 106(or 1 mm higher) and reduce to ARB 5/5
- Front toe somewhere -0.01 to +0.01 and rear +0.02 to +0.06 (personal first test would be -0.01/+0.03) and LSD 8/18/5 or 8/18/8 (maybe 5/18/8 also)
What clutch and propeller shaft?
Brakes 5/5 during test phase.
 
@Grippy gearbox+final needed also, it's having big role on LSD setup finalising,

Just by looking numbers I see a one/few "problem", just to test: (truly throw from wind)
- Drop to 106(or 1 mm higher) and reduce to ARB 5/5
- Front toe somewhere -0.01 to +0.01 and rear +0.02 to +0.06 (personal first test would be -0.01/+0.03) and LSD 8/18/5 or 8/18/8 (maybe 5/18/8 also)
What clutch and propeller shaft?
Brakes 5/5 during test phase.
Everything unlisted is stock

Why would stiff rolls be an issue? Is hasn't thus far and im generating more forces.
 
Everything unlisted is stock
Ok.
Why would stiff rolls be an issue? Is hasn't thus far and im generating more forces.

Roll bars are linking wheel movements on both side, stiff roll bar lighten inner wheel contact during cornering, your stock springs will compress and allow outer wheel to go inside arch and roll bar compress inner side too, stiffer and more it "lifts" inner.

Those changes were two pairs, reducing ride height reduce body roll capability, less ARB needed and wheels are allowed to move alone, it might be even better with lower ARB and lower ride height.

Toe and LSD are pairing, more you use locking by LSD less you can use toe on there, your rear toe is now replaced with LSD locking and high front toe what was stabilising LSD hanging (deceleration side high) isn't so necessary after opening decel lock.
 
@Grippy I wes so curious at had to check that car, put custom gearbox slider 260kmh and tried your setup and my suggestions, ended up on
Toe -0.01/+0.04 with 8/18/8 LSD
106/106 ARB 5/5
Brakes 5/5
Quick tests on Tsukuba gave nearly 2 second benefit on those changes, testing grip real and noABS.

Edit: tested on panorama and dropped height to 104/104 and it laps stable 2:34 with mistakes.
Edit2: Nordschleife noABS/real one lap test 8:13, bad lap.

Checked this lap on data logger and it shows LSD working pretty nicely, allows outer wheel to travel faster on corners and delivering force on both. (Not smooth lap, just tested what parts should be stiffened and it went bit harsh) noABS/grip real.
 
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@Grippy
Checked this lap on data logger and it shows LSD working pretty nicely, allows outer wheel to travel faster on corners and delivering force on both. (Not smooth lap, just tested what parts should be stiffened and it went bit harsh) noABS/grip real.

Video appears to show rear outer tire breaking traction first, guess I'll have to guess a bit on why it understeered on the mountain (before around 1:30 your video). Your toe values are quite minimal so I don't really think that's the reason. It's probably the LSD, and if so, there is some optimization left, for sure. It's likely I won't get my perfect ideal scenario in this game's physics right now(too much testing and different/opposite settings needs to be done). but if it's significantly faster to tune this way, I can't really go wrong.

I'll have to check how this setup works on low grip. That's what I use, AND in testing!!! lol. Probably need some re-tune anyway

Also are you sure you checked datalogger rear wheel speeds on corner apex/exit of every corner? What kind of km/hr wheel speed difference were you getting? really more on the outside? inside spikes not too big?
 
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Video appears to show rear outer tire breaking traction first, guess I'll have to guess a bit on why it understeered on the mountain (before around 1:30 your video). Your toe values are quite minimal so I don't really think that's the reason. It's probably the LSD, and if so, there is some optimization left, for sure. It's likely I won't get my perfect ideal scenario in this game's physics right now(too much testing and different/opposite settings needs to be done). but if it's significantly faster to tune this way, I can't really go wrong.

I'll have to check how this setup works on low grip. That's what I use, AND in testing!!! lol. Probably need some re-tune anyway

Also are you sure you checked datalogger rear wheel speeds on corner apex/exit of every corner? What kind of km/hr wheel speed difference were you getting? really more on the outside? inside spikes not too big?
That understeer was only because my own driver error, sad at I didn't put video of not screwed lap :)

Test those suggested values and try to alter toe, then you'll see how much it affects. You can't just get smooth going wheels if you're scrubbing them too much by toe :)

Checked all corners on data logger, hairpin differences ~15-20kmh, outer going faster, few kmh to ten on other corners, outer always being faster.
Traction losses were driver faults, better break outer first than inner if you want to have controllable power slides.
 
Gonna run now again on bathurst with what you said, I even reset gearbox and moved slider to 260 like you said but I will not test on real grip. Low grip only it's what the vast majority are forced to use. I dont touch track settings for testing.

Edit: christ this car is 10x worse to handle than my tune lol. It's very finicky, you don't feel like it's planted. It's highly sensitive to slight inputs beginning right at 0 degree wheel input. Needs major suspension stuff, gonna bold confirm my original 006 tune above. Watch this space. Edit: Bold confirming done! Check my original tune post to see what's my actual tune was (and what I remembered from memory was still decent before confirmation ;))
 
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Gonna run now again on bathurst with what you said, I even reset gearbox and moved slider to 260 like you said but I will not test on real grip. Low grip only it's what the vast majority are forced to use. I dont touch track settings for testing.

Edit: christ this car is 10x worse to handle than my tune lol. It's very finicky, you don't feel like it's planted. It's highly sensitive to slight inputs beginning right at 0 degree wheel input. Needs major suspension stuff, gonna bold confirm my original 006 tune above. Watch this space. Edit: Bold confirming done! Check my original tune post to see what's my actual tune was (and what I remembered from memory was still decent before confirmation ;))
You could make car less sensitive to driving inputs by changing i.e. Front camber and toe to -1.0/-0.05 (Not tested values, but pretty sure at wil work), your -0.2 camber on front is making front dominant, increasing it until happy is easiest solution, increase adding 0.2 more on each step and correct toe to match new camber.
Examples, -0.6 camber needs -0.03 toe out, -0.8 needs -0.04 toe out.
Probably smoothest steering is around -1.4° or -1.6°.

Reason why I didn't change/suggest those earlier was idea to keep it as is much as possible, your tune with grip is "twitchy"/sensitive on steering, without grip it's smooth slider.

Edit, you have added "-" on front toe of your setup, it was positive 0.16 earlier, should it be positive or negative toe?
 
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You could make car less sensitive to driving inputs by changing i.e. Front camber and toe to -1.0/-0.05 (Not tested values, but pretty sure at wil work), your -0.2 camber on front is making front dominant, increasing it until happy is easiest solution, increase adding 0.2 more on each step and correct toe to match new camber.
Examples, -0.6 camber needs -0.03 toe out, -0.8 needs -0.04 toe out.
Probably smoothest steering is around -1.4° or -1.6°.

Reason why I didn't change/suggest those earlier was idea to keep it as is much as possible, your tune with grip is "twitchy"/sensitive on steering, without grip it's smooth slider.

Edit, you have added "-" on front toe of your setup, it was positive 0.16 earlier, should it be positive or negative toe?

Sorry to say Ode, but it appears I was COMPLETELY wrong about your tune. I just tried it again, handles like it should. The problem isn't with your tune the problem is in fact with my Beloved Logitech G27, I suspected something a while ago, butnow I know for sure. My FFB needs a solid 20+mins to actually produce all the FFB resolution required to play Gt6, so what I was experiencing just before the "all over the place, highly sensitive steering" all that BS was cause of my wheel not producing FFB and me thinking your tune was bad. So sorry.
 
Edit, you have added "-" on front toe of your setup, it was positive 0.16 earlier, should it be positive or negative toe?

No that's completely intentional! :crazy: I missed the -, that's what forgot to add. it was always -0.16. That bold edit corrected everything even as minor as that. :lol::lol:
 
Wow, ok so I just ran a 2:39 smooth test lap on your tune and I've gotta say I'm grinning! the data logger shows clearly there's rarely any spikes from the inside! Turn 1 was solid or slightly faster outside wheel. Turn 2, the first turn uphill, there I had no more than 4km/hr of faster inside wheelspin. The rest of the track's corners 1km/hr faster inside wheelspin on 1 or 2 but mostly I'd say 75% of corners or less was completely locked. And only around 5% of inside wheelspin the whole lap! Rest of % where the car was correctly distributing about 5-25 km/hr more power to outside wheel! Fantastic! Your tune is glorious! Now I've seen it all, I have to conform a little more now. Just need to harness the power for less drifting around and to give it some more stability, harnessing the LSD, I'm doing that right now!

Funny though, I didn't think 5/5 standard brakes would be ok. I've read IRL all modern cars have something like 5/3 brake balance? I thought that would be far more appropriate. (Better for trail braking) Or does that not translate well in GT6? Weight distribution/calculation/exaggeration problems?
 
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Funny though, I didn't think 5/5 standard brakes would be ok. I've read IRL all modern cars have something like 5/3 brake balance? I thought that would be far more appropriate. (better for trail braking) Or does that not translate well in GT6? Weight distribution problems?

Brake strength in GT6 is relative instead of absolute, 5 in the front is stronger than 5 in the rear.
In GT5 it seemed to be absolute and running 5/5 always locked the rear wheels first.

The only problem with relative force that I've found is the Tank Car. You need a lot of braking force on those massive rear wheels, and 10 is not nearly enough :lol: Engine braking adds a bit of extra stopping force though, so timing the shifts well helps.
 
Sorry to say Ode, but it appears I was COMPLETELY wrong about your tune. I just tried it again, handles like it should. The problem isn't with your tune the problem is in fact with my Beloved Logitech G27, I suspected something a while ago, butnow I know for sure. My FFB needs a solid 20+mins to actually produce all the FFB resolution required to play Gt6, so what I was experiencing just before the "all over the place, highly sensitive steering" all that BS was cause of my wheel not producing FFB and me thinking your tune was bad. So sorry.
"Glad to hear" about tune, not wheel. :boggled:
Probably loosen screws on optical reader mount, really common on G27/G25, better tighten those before your reader wheel jams and FFB engine breaks it. 15 min project to tighten those screws, good idea to tighten other screws too on same time.
Guide available on http://www.jlvrh.de/G27_UK.htm
G27_17.jpg

Left Image: screws on 10 o'clock and other 5 o'clock, just below PCB, screw is pita to access.

Good at I'm not on totally own planet on tunes ;)

@eran0004 mentioned already that 5/5 mystery.. :)
 
"Glad to hear" about tune, not wheel. :boggled:
Probably loosen screws on optical reader mount, really common on G27/G25, better tighten those before your reader wheel jams and FFB engine breaks it. 15 min project to tighten those screws, good idea to tighten other screws too on same time.
Guide available on http://www.jlvrh.de/G27_UK.htm
View attachment 637136
Left Image: screws on 10 o'clock and other 5 o'clock, just below PCB, screw is pita to access.

Good at I'm not on totally own planet on tunes ;)

@eran0004 mentioned already that 5/5 mystery.. :)

I can't find too much information on the specific problem. I'll get to that eventually but for now I'll play as it is rather than risk breaking anything when opening it. I'm one of those people that might accidentally spill grease all over the place :lol: Appreciate the help though
 
I can't find too much information on the specific problem. I'll get to that eventually but for now I'll play as it is rather than risk breaking anything when opening it. I'm one of those people that might accidentally spill grease all over the place :lol: Appreciate the help though
Well bigger risk is leave it as is, if optical reader PCB is loose it may jam reader wheel and then you have real problem. Opening isn't big thing, just following guide and it's easy, you don't have to unmount FFB engine rack, just get thin and small Philips screwdriver for that lower screw, removing plastic shielding box from reader is "hardest" part, just gentle squeeze on sides and it pops off. Take pictures before removing wires etc and you have good reference what route they went when assembling it.
Inside steering pole goes one set of wires, just checking how it goes and memorize it, make sure at wheel is on middle position on start and keep it there during whole process and nothing goes wrong. Middle position is just for making easier to put that wire set back, you can't mess calibration or anything else like that, "idiot proof" wheel.
Oh and use tiny i.e. screwdriver to pry wire connectors loose, DON'T pull from wires :)
 
I also think it might just be the USB, read somewhere else that plugging in the USB to port 1 before turning on the PS3 would fix this problem and supply the full power to the G27. The problem itself happens sometimes not always, it's irregular so this might be it. More testing needed. Also no grinding noises or anything else unusual with the wheel. Still can't pinpoint but I know there might be lack of forces upon startup.

Yesterday I bought and tuned a Formula Gran Turismo for the first time, I was able to produce something stable with good grip/downforce and lap Ascari in 1:36.xx with RS tyres, no abs/traction and a 650hp cap. Pretty good feeling forces were adequate when I lapped. I think it might be the USB thing now and the wheel itself might be fine on the inside.
 
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