McLaren F1 Stealth Car

[Felix]

Hi guys ,

Recently I was lucky enough to get all 6 of the stealth cars and I've managed to find perfect tunes for them. Well all of them bar the F1.

Currently there are two tunes on these forums and I've even tried using google to hunt a tune down. The two tunes on here are pretty old and just cause me to have just as a frustrating time when I had no tune at all.

With so many tunes for the premium F1 and the BMW McLaren F1 GTR , I am not sure if any of them will get the most out of the car. With differences in the weight and power ( and aero ? ) I'm not sure if tunes are sensitive to these differences.

The area that has caused the biggest issue is braking stability , 9 times out of 10 the rear is constantly stepping out and causing me to do a 90* spin. I've tried adjusting the way I brake by doing things as pump the brakes to avoid locking , braking in a straight line before I turn. These are ineffective and even with ABS set to 1 I'm still getting the rear snapping. I then went on an tried mixing the two stealth tunes together in an attempt to make sure the LSD and brake balance was right , but I'm very clueless about what will specifically happen when I change values on things like the camber , toe and spring rates.

So I would be really grateful if someone could show me a setup that gives the stability under braking I so badly desire and wether the other McLaren F1 tunes will also work for my Stealth.

Many thanks in advanced ,


Felix

 

[Adrenaline]

Both of the listed Stealth Tunes have ancient LSD settings.
Drop the LSD to 10/15/10, give us the current state of your tunes and go from there.
I see no reason why the standard tunes, shouldn't work on the Stealth version.

 

[Felix]

Thanks a lot dude!

I'll just go an reset the LSD now.

Will give feedback in a whee while

This is the tune I am using , note I am using the 10/15/10 LSD setting


Torque Split: n/a

LSD: 40/20/35

Suspension:
Height: -18/-18
Springs: 13.0/12.0
Dampers (Ext): 7/8
Dampers (Com): 6/7
Anti-Roll: 5/6

Camber: 1.0/0.8
Toe: 0.10/0.00


Brakes 8/7

 

[Felix]

Just ran the car for a few races and it's got so much stability all round , but in heavy braking it's improved the most.

 

[Adrenaline]

LSD: 10/15/10

Suspension:
Height: -18/-18
Springs: 13.0/12.0
Dampers (Ext): 7/8
Dampers (Com): 6/7
Anti-Roll: 5/6

Camber: 1.0/0.8
Toe: 0.10/0.00


Brakes 8/7

I'd raise the ride height up(probably just to 0/0). Then play with your brake balance to see if it makes your issues better or worse. (6/8 and then try 8/6 and see if you prefer the rear bias to the front bias.


And some quick fixes that should help you customize the tune to your needs.

Ride Height. From the 0/0 recommendation if you lower the rear (negative numbers) it should induce oversteer.
From the 0/0 if you lower the front, in should induce understeer, but makes it easier to get on the gas sooner on the exit of a corner.

Springs. A Rear spring, softer(lower numbers) than the front spring, will create oversteer. A front spring, softer than the rear, tends to promote understeer.

Camber. Rear camber, the higher the rear camber (to a reasonable point) usually adds stability through the center of turns. Lowering the rear camber, tends to result in more oversteer mid-turn.

Toe. Front toe: Positive usually means more ability to turn exiting a corner.
Negative means more ability to 'turn in' on entry to the corner.

Rear toe. Negative rear toe allows the car to more easily turn, but creates a less stable car, more prone to spinning out.
Positive rear toe keeps the car stable, but limits your ability to turn throughout a turn.

I'm in no mood to argue or debate with anyone who disagrees. This is my method for tuning, and it works for me. If others, who disagree, would like to present their method, I have no issue with it, but don't waste your time addressing it to me.
Best of luck Felix.

 

[Felix]

Thank you for taking the time to explain , this alone has been a nice a simple way for me to understand.

Has the 2.09 patch forced a lot of you guys ( the talented tuners ) to adjust the tunes and or the theory behind how the settings effect the car?

Out of the six cars the McLaren has felt the hardest to setup and the Nissan GT-R500 has to be the best balance RWD cars I've ever come across.

 

[giantyak]

LSD: 40/20/35
Suspension:
Height: -18/-18
Springs: 13.0/12.0
Dampers (Ext): 7/8
Dampers (Com): 6/7
Anti-Roll: 5/6
Camber: 1.0/0.8
Toe: 0.10/0.00
Brakes 8/7

Based on your setup an alternate option you can experiment with
-First start with the car at 0 / 0 ride height.
-an LSD setting that works for me sometimes is 24 / 52 / 48 or you can try 22 / 52 / 48 (if this LSD doesn't work try the same stuff with Adrenaline's LSD)
-Springs keep front at 13.0 / start with rear springs at 14.0 test, and then reduce back down to 13.0 and see what happens as you go.
-dampers (ext): 7/7
-dampers (comp): 7/7
-anti-roll bars : start with 6/6 (worst case scenario try 6/5)
-camber: 1.2 / 0.8 (or 2.2 / 1.3)
-toe -0.04 / +0.20 (or -0.08 / +0.30)
Brakes: If using a stick controller try 5/4 or if using a wheel try 3/1

Whilst testing the car keep the gear box default.

 

[Johnnypenso]

Try dialing the brakes way back, to maybe 2/0 and see what that does, then gradually add braking in to both ends to see where it goes. 8/7 is fine for hotlapping or trying to beat a time but you'll be more consistent and often faster with lower brake balances. Some cars react violently and are thrown off balance by the high settings and it sounds like it might be the case here.

 

[Felix]

Which track is best for testing on?

 

[Felix]

I've been having great improvement in the braking stability , but something I have done has caused the to become very twitchy when on banked corners. The corkscrew at Laguna Seca is even more tricky now and I feel I am getting snap over steer.

Could it now be I have the rear too stiff or maybe the ride height is too low for a bumpy track like Laguna? I've put things to -20 Front and -15 Rear. On tracks such as Tokyo , the car seems to have a much greater ability to hit the crubs and the front end to feel more progressive with it going into under steer.


I've been going through tunes for both the F1-GTR and the normal F1. The Stealth had very similar ranges in setter to the GTR , but things like the gear ratios are not possible to match. The normal F1 has a different range with the ride height of the car , but the ratios are closer. Even when I have been mixing tunes together , I have found very little difference in how the car behaves in normal racing and the turn in of the car still feels wrong.

What I am hoping to achieve is a car with a very sharp turning ability and for the rear to slighty step out so I can use it to take tighter corners more quickly.


Sorry for my rambeling on , but since buying the 6 stealth cars , I have become totally addicted to them and the R35 GTR and the F1 have been able to get me to really focus on my abilities as a driver. Also I have found people do not mind me using my stealth cars in their various rooms as there seems little to no advantage over other cars when PP restrictions are in place. My ultimate goal is to get good enough to drive in a racing series and for my stealth cars to be allowed to enter.


Thanks for all the help so far guys and I look forward to seeing what advice and soloutions you can offer me.

Regards ,

Felix