MR spins and LSD explained.

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SKD420
Ok some of you are having trouble with mr cars. This is mostly caused by the front having too much grip the car spinning mid corner. Normal solutions to this problem would be tightening the front springs and rear dampers and softening the front dampers. Now this will work for most tracks, bit what about if you are on a very uneven road surface like brands hatch for example. Then the car will pitch with sudden movement and become less stable during weight transfer. Now if you are still having stability problems, lower the rear brake and brake early and make sure you are off the brake completely before you turn in to make sure it isn't the rear brakes spinning you.
If it isn't, take note of how the car is losing control. Is it corner entry? Harden front springs, lower front camber.
Is it rolling over mid corner and spinning? Raise front anti roll, lower rear anti roll, raise rear dampers. How to tell if it's rolling over is when you are near limit you will heat up one tire only, usually a rear from too much weight on that wheel.
Is it spinning on corner exit? Temper your lead foot. If it's not that then try lowering front and raising rear ride height. Because of all the weight in the rear of MR cars, the nose will come up as u hit the gas, making the front end too light. Also try softening the rear springs or lowering rear anti roll.

Now the LSD will play a big role in this as well. It's stands for limited slip differential, or differential or diff you might hear it called. What it means is how much of a difference you allow the driving wheels to spin.
Picture a car going around a curve. The outside wheels are traveling faster then the inside wheels. The difference between them is the differential.
5 means a completely open diff, which means the driving wheels, rears in rear wheel drive, will spin completely independent of each other.
60 is a completely locked diff, which means the rear wheels will only spin at the same speed.

The initial torque setting means how long the system will wait to kick in before reaching you accel diff setting. For example, if u want the rear to completely lock, set accel to 60, and the initial will determine how long it takes to lock. A low setting like 10 means the wheels can spin more freely. A high setting, like 30, means the wheels will lock together much sooner. Braking works the same way except under braking obviously instead of accelerating.

With race tires on, the car has so much more front and rear grip mid corner, meaning the LSD becomes more important. Personally I like to lock or almost lock the diff(accel 60) and raise initial. My 430 scuderia for ex is 35 60 20 on race softs.
With sports hard on you need a much more open diff to prevent understeer. The 430 for ex is 5 5 20.

Hope this helps, if anyone cans help me explain better or correct me where I'm wrong more knowledge is always appreciated.
 
Hi there, you're completely right, my friends and I drive completely "nude", meaning no assists and no ABS. In GT5 most of us had a LSD setting 60-60-60 and it worked perfectly; In GT6 however those LSD settings are more tricky for the moment but it's only few weeks since the game is out, I guess we need to get used to the new physics. Or maybe Kaz uses the Pirelly tires of this year's F1 season?...:boggled:
 
Hey, I've only been into the GT series for two years now and didn't try too much at tuning on my own in GT5 but because we are all starting from scratch in GT6 I am working on getting better with less popular cars. Your LSD tip really helped me tame the Superbird beast on corner exit. Hard enough on the DS3 (And the right foot syndrome).
 
Through my GT6 testing, I am seeing that the LSD works the same as it did in GT5. Here is the description that I wrote in my GT5 garage. This theory is still working very well for me in GT6. Just thought I would share another perspective.

Limited Slip Differential

LSD Accel: This setting has one purpose, to manage inside and outside wheel spin. If the inside wheel spins first, raise this setting. If the outside wheel spins first, lower this setting. Most often the tire in need of help will turn red upon throttle application from the corner apex. Sometimes, a car will get loose on you, but neither tire turns red. In this case, put two or three levels harder tires on the car and mash the throttle in the slow, 2nd gear corners and you should be able to find which tire turns red first. Keep adjusting until both drive tires spin at the same time and this setting will be optimized. On a few cars, you will find a situation where one click higher will make the outside tire turn just a little red and one click lower will make the inside tire a little red. On these rare cars, you cannot fully optimize this setting and will need to choose one. In GT6 I am noticing nearly identical settings as I used in GT5 (8 to 20 - never seen a car need higher than this).

LSD Decel: This setting has one purpose, to manage stability under braking, turn-in and when coasting. If your car is loose (oversteer) in these situations, raise this setting. If your car has understeer during these conditions, lower this setting. Nearly all of my under 550PP street car tunes have settings between 5 and 7. On pure race cars like LMP cars, JGTC, FGT, F1, 2J, etc., I run much higher decel settings. In GT6, the setting works the same way, but I am noticing many cars need higher settings than what I used in GT5. For example, on any Miata in GT5 I used a decel setting of 5. I have tested seven Miata in GT6 and they are ranging from 9 to 22 at the moment.

LSD Initial Torque: This setting determines how much power is needed to activate the diff, to make it lock. What this means in GT5 is that a higher number produces more understeer and a lower number produces more oversteer. It is that simple. Since the 2.09 update this characteristic is more pronounced and even more noticeable from apex to exit.

The LSD does not add or subtract acceleration. The LSD cannot send more or less power to the drive train. The LSD can only distribute the given amount of power to each of the drive wheels. I see many on this site confuse the LSD with slipper clutches. This must come from R/C off road racing where slipper clutches are popular. In R/C racing a sipper clutch is added as a bolt on to the drive train and will actually slip as power is applied and grip in the higher revs to keep the rear wheels from spinning. There is still an LSD in those gear boxes and they are not set up to slip. They are set up to do the only job of the LSD, to distribute power from side to side under acceleration and braking. If you set them up to slip, they melt. Same goes for real world, if your LSD slips, it melts. Heat is the #1 enemy of an LSD. This is why we have traction control in the real world and in GT5. Traction control limits power through the drive train to the wheels, not the LSD.
 
There's more to LSD than 2nd gear corners.

I don't remember saying that the LSD is only effective in 2nd gear corners so struggling to understand your point? I mentioned 2nd gear and slam the gas as a way to diagnose LSD accel.
 
I mentioned 2nd gear and slam the gas as a way to diagnose LSD accel.
Donuting was also cool in GT5 to check which tire burned first. I didn't tried this in GT6 (got the game at Christmas) but I've got the impression that the LSD physics are the same (tires grip changed a little, but not much on non-premium models).

I'll post soon a very (lazy) effective zz2 setup that's almost the same as I made for GT5...


Tires model changed. So most LSD settings changes a little, that's all.

I Wonder if they renormalized LSD for RR cars (they had a problem).
 
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I don't remember saying that the LSD is only effective in 2nd gear corners so struggling to understand your point? I mentioned 2nd gear and slam the gas as a way to diagnose LSD accel.
Well if your tuning your LSD in 2nd gear corners, you aren't necessarily going to have great handling in higher speed corners and might not be optimising lap times, not to mention not getting a great feel from the LSD. For example, high speed entry into a corner that only requires a little off throttle or touch of brakes before full throttle again, higher values may be advantageous.
 
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In GT6, reducing LSD to low values helps a lot. In GT5 not so much so as the cars used to understeer more.
 
In GT6, reducing LSD to low values helps a lot. In GT5 not so much so as the cars used to understeer more.
It may do for some cars on some tracks, but to have low LSD settings on every tune, like some people did for GT5, I think is bad tuning.
 
It may do for some cars on some tracks, but to have low LSD settings on every tune, like some people did for GT5, I think is bad tuning.
Yeah, i was talking about powerful, RWD cars mostly, and especially powerful MR cars that tend to oversteer a lot.
 
A good place to tune LSD are Apricot Hill, Big Willow and Brands Hatch GP :) I tuned my replicas there, and I adapted real world LSD and so far works great.
 
Yeah, i was talking about powerful, RWD cars mostly, and especially powerful MR cars that tend to oversteer a lot.
That's when you want some reasonable LSD settings. Toyota Minoltas don't come with 2CV differentials.
 
Most cars get greatly improved stability when you lower the suspension by ~20 units ( cm and inches seem to be the same in the game, hence why I said units). Also, if rear end tries to overtake you, increase rear shock extension value together with front shock compression value and spring rate. LSD only effects turning, not weight shifting.
 
old thread is good thread :)
ok i dig this old one because it really helped me with MR/FR/RR cars having the bad habit to spin in slow short turns

i can finally enjoy those cars,
it still touchy but there is no more violent spin out when throttling at low speed in a u-turn
 
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