My New 3,500,000 Cr Purple Jaguar and Tyres do not mix.

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CIEN 470km/h

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I recently bought that 3,500,000 Cr Jaguar and tried the World Cup with it after I gave it a stage four turbo. It brought it's hp up to about 1150. First race of the World Champ, the Tokyo one I think, and at about lap four my rear tyres start turning orange. Lap six and my rear tyres are bright red, almost glowing. I'm spinning all over the track, and I lose my first position to the AI. The front tyres are only green! What tyres should I put on my Jaguar? :grumpy:
 
Try R1's. They grip less but last longer.

If those still don't work, lower your horsepower or change your driving habits.
 
The XJR-9 is known to be a bit of a tire eater, for some reason it just destroys rear tires, so giving it hundreds of horsepower above the designed, stock amount will only compound your problem. My advice to you is, keep HP to the stock amount, and if you can, try to ease into throttle/brake better, don't slam them. If that is difficult to do (it can be with DS2 controller), you may want to switch to harder tires (I'd do that anyway) and/or increase TCS a notch or two.
 
Too right they grip less, skidded off the road once, and can't turn corners as easily. I'll try R2.
 
I changed them to R2, although it is a bit hard to steer. I've tried some testing and it turns out that if I dont push the joystick on the DS2 fully down, the tyres will not skid, but my acceleration will be slower. I'll take out the stage four turbo, and see how that works. 80,000 Cr down the drain. :indiff:
 
I'm sure you'll find the turbo removal will make those R1/R2s a lot more grippy. Also, you don't necessarily have to make front/rear tires match, especially on a car that wears them as unevenly as the Jag. Try to aim to where front/rear wear at about the same rate, that way, your handling will not change dramatically as it deteriorates. Keeping the fronts softer than the back can also improve steering/cornering.

And I know you're new, but try to avoid double posts.
 
Ah, yes. Ok. The turbo removal hasn't completely removed the skidding. So should I put R3 or higher in the front and R2 in the rear?
 
Burn dude, you get the XJR-9 for free when you reach 50% game completion. I'd have bought something that you don't win later as a prize car... probably saving up an extra million for one of the Pescarolos would have been a good choice.

Oh well, it's not that big a deal. Have fun with your Jag! I'd suggest just practicing more if you're having trouble with skidding. Going R2 rear and R3 front is an option, but race cars are all difficult to control until you've practiced for a long time. Also remember that grip improves after you've had a few laps for the tires to heat up.
 
Unless the races are less than 10 laps, I would not go any higher than R3s on any race car.
 
Welcome to GTP.

I'm not really surprised that you're having tyre wear problems with a T4 XJR-9 on R3s, that car is the second-worst of all the Group C cars for eating tyres. Don't put the turbocharger back on. My recommendation would be to use R2 tyres for the rear, because with R1s you will not be able to use as much throttle, so although the rears will wear less you'll find yourself going so much easier on the power that it won't be any better. On the front, you can get away with R3s, because the old 1988 steering and midship-engined configuration on this car doesn't really wear the front tyres much.

I wouldn't use R4s on any race car, no matter what the situation, R4s and R5s are both extremely unrealistic and useful only for single-lap qualification runs.

Just turn all the aids off, the only traction control you need is your right foot, and learn how much power you can use and where on R3/R2s.

DE
 
Always put one grade harder tyres on the back wheels of your rear wheel drive cars. I'm not an expert on GT4 tweaks, but maybe your problem could be solved by setting the TCS high so as to avoid buring your tyres out. I'm not sure if this is a factor, but it's worth a try. I wouldn't take the turbine off. Set the TCS to 10 and try that.
 
hey man wat i do is i buy 2 types of tryes i buy racing hard and racing super hard. i put hard tyres on the front and super hard on the bak it should last u about 6 or 7 laps more...
 
If you are having problems with the xjr-9, then you have problems with your driving style. You should know that cars handle less than their optimum when on cold tyres. Dark Elite is correct about the Turbo, it just makes things worse.

xjr-9
 
Automobile
I wouldn't take the turbine off. Set the TCS to 10 and try that.
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Sorry but if he follows this advice nothing is going to be gained from it in terms of driving experience.

First off the car does not need the stage 4 turbo at all, and learning to depend on the TCS to that degree is just going to develop bad habits.

Learn to actually modulate the throttle (rather than just leting the TCS cut power when it wants) and not only will you learn to develop a better feel for the car, use of a trailing throttle will maximise cornering speeds and you get the tyre life as well.

Most importantly of all you actually get to drive the car yourself, rather than the TCS system nursing you around.


Holdenluva001
hey man wat i do is i buy 2 types of tryes i buy racing hard and racing super hard. i put hard tyres on the front and super hard on the bak it should last u about 6 or 7 laps more...
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Holdenluva001 can you please stop using text style abreviations in your posts, a number of our members do not have English as a first language and it causes confusion.

The AUP (which you agreed to when you joined) does cover this

AUP
No slang words that promote laziness, ie; "r", "u", "plz", etc. will be tolerated. Decent grammar is expected, including proper usage of capital letters. Repeated violations will be grounds for suspension and/or permanent removal from the forums.
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Regards

Scaff
 
Scaff
Sorry but if he follows this advice nothing is going to be gained from it in terms of driving experience.
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Fine if you're that sort of purist, but I'm just thinking of ways to optimize performance. Surely the lap time benefits of a turbine outweigh the costs having to change tyres one extra time during a long race where you may have to pit in umpteen times. You'd make up the extra pitstop you may need to make to change tyres, if you had your traction settings optimised, by gaining a few seconds extra between each pitstop through using a turbine wouldn't you?
 
Automobile
Fine if you're that sort of purist, but I'm just thinking of ways to optimize performance. Surely the lap time benefits of a turbine outweigh the costs having to change tyres one extra time during a long race where you may have to pit in umpteen times. You'd make up the extra pitstop you may need to make to change tyres, if you had your traction settings optimised, by gaining a few seconds extra between each pitstop through using a turbine wouldn't you?
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The point is by having to set TCS at 10 (and the resultant hammering your lap time will get) its very debatable how much, if any gain you would make. Sure your tyres will last longer, but TCS at that degree (and 10 is a long way from optimising traction control - its an iron fist over the throttle) is going to potentially murder your lap times.

Im all for using TCS at 1 or 2 if people want to, it allows you to get to grips with the car and improve tyre life. But TCS 10, sorry in my opinion you may as well let b-spec bob drive, given the level of throttle control you have just given the TCS system.

As with all things it's personal, but I want to drive the car, not just guide it around using the throttle and brakes as an on/off switch, which is what TCS 10 is going to let you do.

Regards

Scaff
 
I completely ageree with Scaff, TCS never increases the cars potential, but a good setting can make it easier to reach the cars new and slightly lower potential. Setting it too high will kill your lap times, you can keep the turbo, but it won't increase lap times that much and when you take an extra pit stop into consideration due to the increased tyre wear, it's really not worth it. Remember a pit stop takes about 20-25 seconds worth of race time.
 
TCS is a real world thing though right, not some form of cheating AI assistance in the game? If some average Joe driver got into a race car and wanted to test it out, wouldn't he want to have the most user friendly setup on his car? He doesn't want to test his fine driving skills, unless he wants to die, because he knows he's a novice and doesn't posess them. He just wants the best experience a novice can expect from a high performace vehicle that modern technology can provide him with. :)
 
Some race cars use it, some don't it depends on the rules of the competition.
 
Automobile
TCS is a real world thing though right, not some form of cheating AI assistance in the game? If some average Joe driver got into a race car and wanted to test it out, wouldn't he want to have the most user friendly setup on his car? He doesn't want to test his fine driving skills, unless he wants to die, because he knows he's a novice and doesn't posess them. He just wants the best experience a novice can expect from a high performace vehicle that modern technology can provide him with. :)
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Very, very , very few real world racing series allow the use of any form of traction control system at all.

In the real world you learn the limits of a car (race or not) but increaseing pace (which in reality will be dictated by the need to get heat into the tyres and brakes) and working up towards either the drivers or the cars limits.

If the 'average' joe want to go to a race day at a track, the cars they use will normally be standard track cars, and not fitted with TCS. I have been 'average' joe and none of the track cars of this nature I have driven have had TCS fitted at all.

The single best way to learn the limits of a car is to build to them gradually, gaining a feel for the car and the track surface, this will teach you far more about driving and a cars limits that being dependant on an electronic blanket, which despite what you imply is far from perfect.

A novice driver whould need instruction and training to gain a race licence before they would be allowed to race, and even at track-days briefing and experience are provided. However fear keeps most in check to begin with, most first time track drivers are well below the limits of the car.

Regards

Scaff
 
CIEN 470km/h
I've tried some testing and it turns out that if I dont push the joystick on the DS2 fully down, the tyres will not skid, but my acceleration will be slower. :indiff:
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What are your ASM and TCS settings?
 
set the TSM higher but why you bought the jaguar you when him win you complete 50% of the game, do it like me and use the formula 1 car :D
 
TSM, I do hope you don't mean ASM, that's adding a problem not taking it away, you want TCS set to 2 or 3 until you become more accustomed to it, you want ASM set to 0 and you want R1s or R2s on the back and R2s or R3s on the front.
 
I also did the chamionship with the Jaggy, I love that car, I even killed the 787b and the R92 Nissan with it.

However, I used that racing tires: front wheels: Medium strength, rear tires hard. Be sure that the angle of the rear wheels are 1.00 or less, more wheel angle will increase the tire wear I guess. Accelerate at the end of a turn not in the middle of it.

I bought the turbo for it but that thing eats up tires so I dumped the turbo and it was MUCH better without it. Pit in the middle of the race when you tires turn yellow. Soft springs gives you more traction at the rear wheels at bumpy places.
 
Michael88
I also did the chamionship with the Jaggy, I love that car, I even killed the 787b and the R92 Nissan with it.

However, I used that racing tires: front wheels: Medium strength, rear tires hard. Be sure that the angle of the rear wheels are 1.00 or less, more wheel angle will increase the tire wear I guess. Accelerate at the end of a turn not in the middle of it.

I bought the turbo for it but that thing eats up tires so I dumped the turbo and it was MUCH better without it. Pit in the middle of the race when you tires turn yellow. Soft springs gives you more traction at the rear wheels at bumpy places.
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All of which is (in my opinion) much better advice that slap on TCS at 10.

👍

Regards

Scaff
 
In my estimation, you picked a stinker of a car to purchase. You should have waited. I made the same mistake for some reason. I must have won it or something and used it. Purple Tire Eater for sure. I thought I was doing something wrong that I couldn't make the tires last for any length of time. It's just a bogus lead sled. Right up there with the Panoz and Ford GTs and other Jaguar Race cars. I say, sell it and get something else. Nearly anything else.

I've been able to get fantastic tire mileage out of other cars by different means and that Jaguar is just outright tire hungry.

In all fairness, I haven't used the car for ages and maybe some of my gained savvy could do something with the car. Like not using a Stage 4 Turbo and/or leaving it at stock HP. Either way it probably weighs too much to be bothered with at all.
 
Its actually pretty light, and don't worry it only took me one sitting to get those credits. Its tyre eating habits aren't so bad any more if I don't floor it. I might get that french supercar today if I sell the Jag, but I'll remove the turbo and I'll see at which point the tyres turn orange in the race. If its early in the race, byebye Jaguar. Get back to you soon.

EDIT: I am not sure what the TCS and TSM settings are, although the only settings I have changed when I bought it was the turbo and the tyres.
 
I can't really comment on the Jag eating tyres, since I haven't actually raced mine.

But I can tell you, in mid-engined race cars, always use at least one compound softer on the front (eg R2 front/R1 rear).

Personally, I'd recommend getting one of the Pescas I told you about, or the Minolta 88-CV from the El Cap. enduro.

By a pure stroke of luck, I was re-racing the GTWC yesterday in my 5500km Minolta (default turbo this time), and racing hard (R2) rears would last half the race, requiring one pit. The AI would also pit once, so the number of pits is no problem.
A car similar to the 88-CV (Pesky/R92/R8 etc) would get pretty much identical tyre wear, so I recommend trying one of these.
 
SirBerra
In my estimation, you picked a stinker of a car to purchase. You should have waited. I made the same mistake for some reason. I must have won it or something and used it. Purple Tire Eater for sure.
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Well, just get rid of the tire problems and you will be fine with that car, the Jaggy is actually a beast of a group C car, 974ps @ 894(?)kg beats most opponents on the paper & corners. :dopey:👍

Just use front wheels medium and rear wheels hard, break not too late or at the turn, corner with 3/4 throttle and speed up at the end of the turn, and pit in the middle of the race. That helped me to get through the championship with all races won (except Tokio) against 787b and R92.

I wouldnt recomment you to use driving Aids because thy only add odd steering to the car or slowing it down too much, make more use of 3/4 throttle.
 
CIEN 470km/h
Its actually pretty light, and don't worry it only took me one sitting to get those credits. Its tyre eating habits aren't so bad any more if I don't floor it. I might get that french supercar today if I sell the Jag, but I'll remove the turbo and I'll see at which point the tyres turn orange in the race. If its early in the race, byebye Jaguar. Get back to you soon.

EDIT: I am not sure what the TCS and TSM settings are, although the only settings I have changed when I bought it was the turbo and the tyres.
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In that case they will all still be at the default setting.

Go and zero both the ASM settings and personally I would do the same with TCS, but you may want to try 1 or 2 first.

It also sounds like you have all the suspension, gerbox, etc settings set at the default values and you can do a lot to help out with them. Download and print off my guides (link in my sig) if you need any help in that area.

Regards

Scaff
 
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