Need comments from drifters

  • Thread starter Thread starter r_master78
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Hello... Just wondering if my setup can be drifted... I've been trying all weekend, but I didn't see any great results. The best I've done is drifting the first U-turn on mini autumn ring by accel-off technique. All other drifting trys couldn't be held long enough... I think this is partialy due to my lack of drift skills... If some of you drifters can try this setting out and leave some feedback it will be greatly appreciated. (and this will also tell me that the car is driftable and need to practice practice and... practice)

Car
00' Impreza WRX STi

Parts to buy
Racing or Original suspension
sports clutch and flywheel
N1 or N2 tires

Settings : Front/Rear
Spring Rate: 5.8/4.0
Ride Height: 133/158
Damper: 8/9
Camber: 1.8/0
Toe: 0/0
Stabilizer: 6/6

Thank you very much~

edit: checked gt4 data and found out that I put the wrong height on the rear...
 
r_master78
Settings : Front/Rear
Spring Rate: 5.8/4.0
Ride Height: 133/165
Damper: 8/9
Camber: 1.8/0
Toe: 0/0
Stabilizer: 6/6

As d3 pointed out, reverse the spring rates...

My initial recomendation
Settings : Front/Rear
Spring Rate: 5.0/7.5
Ride Height: 135/135
Damper: 8/8
Camber: 3/1.8
Toe: 0/0
Stabilizer: 5/6
 
Thanks for the reply :) I was looking more of "how car feels" feedback than setup feedback, but thank you very much for the comments :D

The only reason I put the rear higher is because I believe that is how my real life car is setup. I tried putting the front and rear at the same height, but the fender gap looked aweful, and I know my car has about even fender gap... So, I digged up few info about WRX suspension setup... and found out that the stock WRX has the front 20mm higher than the rear. And, since I lowered my car 62.625mm in the front and about 37.8625 mm in the rear in real life... (all measurements were done from the center of wheel to fender lip). so I crunched few more numbers and came out with those values...

Same with damper and spring rate... the above number is the spring rate that is used on my coilover setup. Damper rate is done with using a ratio (my car has 24 way adjustable stiffness... and currently, it is set at 20 front, 22 rear so taking ratio of 1~10 vs. 1~24, I came out with the above number)

The only thing that is debateable is the stabilizer... I have a thicker sway bar on front and rear, but I couldn't really put a value to it... so I just put a number there...

If you guys are interested, try the setup and let me know if it is driftable... (hard, difficult, impossible... better than expected etc... ) and.. thanks for the helpful comments once again.
 
hrm, i might give this one a shot, since i think i already commented once on your setup in the settings subforum

as the others already mentioned, the rear ride height is a bit odd, and i usually have 1 or 2 ticks negative rear toe

i'll come edit this if i get anything working for me
 
Ahh, mild misunderstanding.

One think you might want to look at though is the LSD... big part of drifiting.

I might try this setup later... as I do have ample funds at 6 million plus credits... :p
 
I know this may sound a bit ludacris, but most setups are driftable (drift/stock/grip). I've been toying around with some very strange settings for a while now, just looking for the "Miracle Settings" where all my settings were really jacked up, but I was still able to drift the cars. Although I haven't tried your settings myself, I'd say by looking at them that they should to some extent be slide-able (not necessarily driftable). Make sure all the driving aids (TCS, ASM Oversteer and Understeer) are off and go try out Azuremen's settings.

</Vin>

PS:
Azuremen
6 million plus credits
I got 16 Mil :dopey:.
 
Meh, I buy too many cars :P 170 right now... lots fully tuned :P

I use my race setups for drifting in most all my cars. Why? Cause you can drift a race setup fast... and I'm all about speed...
 
Thanks everyone :) Yes, please let me know how it works out :)

PS. I got the height wrong on the original post... miscalculation when writing the post... checked the gt4 data and the right value is in there now... the rear is still higher tho :)
 
You ran it with 0 rear camber? Without rear camber you should have no problem getting it side ways, controlling it is another issue. On an awd car I would run 3.0 front, 1.4 rear and adjust the rear up or down a tick to suit yourself.
 
I like leaving camber at 3-3.5 / 1.5-2.5

Usually it just depends on the car's nature.
 
Well I'm by no means an expert, just a casual drifter.

I found the car really liked weight transfers and/or a downshift to get the rear end out. Took me a few laps but I started to get the hang of it, and I had 80% of Autumn Ring Mini down. It's easy to have the car sliding through the middle of the turn and out, but it took a bit more practice to get it sliding ahead of time, as is more typical in AWD. Usually with AWD I throw the car sideways then use throttle to control it's forward movement to get it to the apex and out of the turn, whereas with your setup I found myself not quite sideways until just before the apex. It didn't look quite as dramatic with single corners, but it worked well for linking them, and was pretty controllable.


I took the first corner in second gear, coming in trailbraking a bit, and then downshifting to first about 2/3ds of the way through to get more angle on exit. I'd hit 3rd before the next corner, and feint right before turning hard left to start the slide. A bit before the apex I'd kick it down to 2nd to get her a little further sideways, and then I'd link that slide directly into the next corner, exiting it fairly straight. I didn't need to feint for the 4th turn, just turn in hard and tap the brakes. Next corner I never got perfect, but feinting was working. For the next section that looks like this,
_
<---- _/ \_ <----

leading into the hairpin, your setup was fun, I could link the leading corner's slide into one big arc around the pictured curve, and then I was about 2 for 10 on getting the final hairpin right. I think a little more power would be the cheap way to do it, but with practice it'd be possible.


So yeah, your setup is driftable. I looked at it initially and said huh?! but it was actually pretty fun. Hope that's more the kind of feedback you were looking for.
 
Thank you VERY much Red Raevyn :) A "feel" reply was what I was looking for and you did a great one; explaining what you did turn by turn to get the car to drift and how the car behaved 👍

I was having trouble drifting after the first U-turn, but after reading your post, I think I know (kind of 💡 ) what to do now. :dopey: I will be practicing harder.

You suggested more power, but would any changes in camber make the drift easier? Since I am trying to replicate my real life car, I probably won't put anymore power or change the camber to anything greater than 2.0/1.0 (F/R)... anything greater than that would affect my tire wear so much :sly:

Oh... btw... did you use N1 or N2 tires?

Thanks again for the feedback :)
 
Yeah, I figured you wanted to stick to your RL car, that's why I only mentioned power in passing. You can change camber to suit your style, really. Sticking within those ranges, you probably won't find a dramatic effect, but may be enough to tweak to suit you a bit better.

I was using N2 tires out of habit, didn't really think about which I was buying.
One thing you may want to think about changing is the damper. The GT games and others tell you that as a general rule, it should be 2 to 4 times less than the rebound. So, if rebound is at 8 (the STi's stock), you'd want to drop the bound down to the region of 4 or even 2. You had it at 8 and 9 F/R if I understood you, which is part of why your setup looked weird to me at first. I didn't try softening it though, and hard bound could well be a common drifter thing to reduce grip.

Good luck, and glad I helped. 👍
 
Thanks Red for the advice once again. Last night I put on N2 tires on the car and went to practice once again at the mini ring... this time I think I am getting a better hang of it after reading your explaination. I tried to emulate what you said, and it was working better! I was paying more attention to the tachometer to see if my rev was high enough etc. I was going to take some pics in photo mode, but my usb drive seems like it isn't compatable with the ps2. I guess I'll have to buy another one.

I also changed gear ratio to match my car (my car only has 5 speed, so I made 6th gear so close to 5th that it is almost pointless to use it), but that made it harder to drift (probably due to 1st gear being really short and other gears being so far apart). I might have to do some more research because the top speed on each gear didn't match my real car...

Thanks again for the feedback everyone and if you tried my setup, please leave a word (even if it is negative "feel" comments, I welcome it if it is constructive :D )
 
Don't take this as offensive. It was not meant to be as such. However, a few questions need to be asked.

I hope you aren't trying to imitate your car in the game so you can try to drift your car in real life.............
If that is the case, you've made several errors.
1 It's a game, it has a "dumbed down" physics model compared to real life
2 You've made some settings the same, yet changed others
3 You haven't set up your real life car with drift settings and thus it won't do what the one in the game will.........not even close.
4 Have you ever autocrossed? Have you ever had track time with SCCA? Have you ever ice raced? Have you ever rallycrossed (autocross on dirt, it's hard to find areas to do it)?
If you have answered no to any of these. Go do them first............for at the least 2 years.

If this is not the case.......um.......carryon!!!! And I'll check out your settings as well. Could prove...interesting!

(seen too many people get hurt thinking that because they can drive like Colin McRae in CMR3 that all of a sudden they are rally drivers or some crap. lol)
 
Sure~ questions are welcome :) I do understand your concerns... there are lot's of idiots (can I say that word here?) in this world~

I am not trying to drift my real car... just trying to get my real car setting into the game to have fun.
1) I do understand~ aye aye sir! ^.^)>
2) Ya... I understand... I can't get the settings perfectly from real life to in-game, so some compromise had to be made.
3) Yap, I know my real car isn't setup for drift setting, but just giving it a shot in-game to have fun :D
4) I've autoXed, tracked... no ice race (does driving up in snowly area up in the mountains count? keke j/k ;) )... no rallycross.... my friend and I (he is doing most if not all the work... I am just a driver hehe~) are building a autox specific car right now :D

Did I pass? ^^;;

Yes... please do check out the setting, (hopefully) have fun, and let me know how it works out :D
 
It is sad... but, I have to agree with you... wrx has a glass transmission :scared: and gear ratio isn't all that great either :grumpy: few people I know busted their transmission while doing such thing called "spirited" driving kekeke :yuck: most of them upgraded to 6-speed or got hardened gear set with better gear ratio.

Even when I went to drag strip at infinion, I had to slip my clutch quite a bit b/c I was scared :scared:
 
Well, I don't have a PS2 at my house (my sister's boyfriend has it :grumpy:), but I still play at my friends house. I spent some time trying to drift an STI, but not too much, so if i'm wrong about this stuff, that's why. Anyways, I keep the front spring rate a bit higher than the rear, ride height as low as possible in front and back. Shock bound&rebound on 4/8, toe at 2/-2, and stabilizer at 3/6. Use the feint motion into a corner, let off the gas until you start drifting, then floor it through the corner. Or something.
 
Actually i just bought a STI last nite night an its pretty easy to drift would i would say is just mess with the settings some more, its all trial an error and also practice. Make sure you start out with N1 tires front an back, or any of the the N grade tires, but mostly just practice alot. Hope this helped abit.
 
MdnIte
I like leaving camber at 3-3.5 / 1.5-2.5

Usually it just depends on the car's nature.

Mdnite, why would you use higher camber in the rear?

And why so much?

We're trying to drift here..
 
d3p0
Run higher negative camber in the rear.

Coule that with a negative toe angle in the back and you've got it very driftable, yet the snap-understeer may be another issue, but if you have that conquered, then you shouldn't have too many problems.

</Vin>
 
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