Need some help tuning my G27 for AC

  • Thread starter Igano
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Igano

Igano

566
Greece
Patra, Greece
As I am slowly adopting to AC I notice the following weird situation. Even though the wheel is set at 900 degrees I have noticed with all cars I hardly need to turn the wheel at all, it's like I am set at 200 degrees.

If you combine this problem with the infamous G27 dead zone it becomes very hard at times to keep the tail straight after a corner on a big straight, because you can't feel much when in the center.

I was wondering what can I do to fix this?

Also another thing that has been bugging me is the gain setting. Is this the strength of the FFB? I noticed 100% is actually a 50% of the scale. In most games I would go for around 50-60% and it feels similar at 100% with AC. I just need to know because I don't want to break my wheel, incase i am indeed running the wheel very hard.
 
Igano
As I am slowly adopting to AC I notice the following weird situation. Even though the wheel is set at 900 degrees I have noticed with all cars I hardly need to turn the wheel at all, it's like I am set at 200 degrees.

If you combine this problem with the infamous G27 dead zone it becomes very hard at times to keep the tail straight after a corner on a big straight, because you can't feel much when in the center.

I was wondering what can I do to fix this?

Also another thing that has been bugging me is the gain setting. Is this the strength of the FFB? I noticed 100% is actually a 50% of the scale. In most games I would go for around 50-60% and it feels similar at 100% with AC. I just need to know because I don't want to break my wheel, incase i am indeed running the wheel very hard.
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Try this:



http://www.logitech.com/en-gb/support
 
After i made the thread I checked and it was indeed at 200 degrees. Kinda funny that my estimate was so precise :P

Anyway the problem is I had checked the option allow the game to adjust settings. Shouldn't AC overwrite that setting and allow 900 deg. like I had it in the menu? Or is there a different setting for the limit of the wheel and the effective range? I am a bit confused about this.
 
Igano
After i made the thread I checked and it was indeed at 200 degrees. Kinda funny that my estimate was so precise :P

Anyway the problem is I had checked the option allow the game to adjust settings. Shouldn't AC overwrite that setting and allow 900 deg. like I had it in the menu? Or is there a different setting for the limit of the wheel and the effective range? I am a bit confused about this.
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Sorry, but i can`t help you with that one, i still struggling myself to understand the intricacies of computer gaming (i will have my first gaming computer delivered tomorrow, what i posted is the result form a short experience in my brother`s computer last weekend).
 
People have variable experience using the Logitech Profiler checkbox to let the game alter settings, and it's not really clear what the game can alter. As for rotation: Setting the wheel to 900 in drivers is recommended by Kunos for AC, because they simulate reduced rotation within game. So each car will actually use a realistic amount of lock in game, not the full 900. (pCARS does something similar, but many older sims don't do this).

As for full settings, I personally use the following on my G25:

Drivers:
Overall 101% [above 100% reduces the feel of deadzone in the middle, some use 107% for this but I've had my wheel on 101% for the last 5 years and see no reason to change]
All other settings 0%
Rotation 900
Separate pedals
No centering spring
Don't let game alter these settings

In game:
85% gain
15% damping
Brake 2.4 gamma (default)
Turn off all "fake" effects, namely road, slip and curbs

This combination gives a wheel which is very free spinning, gives you huge amounts of information, is good for racing and for drifting, and most importantly it results only in a small amount of clipping (force saturation). You might find you want the steering heavier, which can be done with more damping (at the cost of making it harder to save slides) or higher gain (at the cost of clipping).

How to understand gain:
Use the pedals app in AC (drag from the right of the screen while in car) and look at the right-hand bar while driving. This bar is force saturation, if it goes red you are missing light subtle forces, due to cornering forces overpowering them.
The best approach is to either have no clipping atall or to go for tiny amounts of clipping during very high speed cornering and nowhere else, otherwise you can't feel the car fully. That is around 80-90% gain (with 101% overall forces in profiler) depending on the car, which is why I went for 85% as a good average which has occasional clipping on some cars.
 
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Nice tips.

Just about the damping, if you have damping at 0% in the profiler, the game damping setting doesnt have any effect.
 
JvM
Nice tips.

Just about the damping, if you have damping at 0% in the profiler, the game damping setting doesnt have any effect.
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I'm not 100% certain about that. It might be a placebo (haven't done extensive testing) but I thought I felt a subtle difference. My understanding of the driver setting is that it adds blanket damping, just like the center spring setting adds a centering force unrelated to the game engine. So adding damping via the game engine would just use the normal FFB signal force..

However, if you've done extensive testing on this and are sure of what you write, then I will happily agree.
 
Havent done extensive testing, but seen many people say that.

And yea it's a static damp, then just setting from game, how much of it is in use. Kind of like emulating the real car steering's static friction I guess.
 
My big problem was that the driver was at 200 degrees and even though the game was set at 900 and had the option for the games to define their own settings it didn't work with this setting. The steering animation was very fake and funny. Now that I am at 900 degrees the animations are perfect. I had to lower the curb strength and still need to more. I actually stayed at 100% gain I like to have good resistance from the wheel, but maybe I haven't understood completely yet what it does.

I will definitely try your settings skazz and see how it feels.

My only gripe right now is there is a very weird and strong noise coming from the wheel motor when i hit curbs which is slightly frightening since I never heard it before, but I believe that maybe because GT5 (the other game I played with steering wheel) had very weak FFB with G27 (especially after spec 2 if I remember correct).

I opened a thread about a mod I found:

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/g27-reducing-noise-and-dead-zone-mod.302075/

If I get this thing done and it works than all I need is to play with the settings. I am liking so much the feel of this game that even though I was planning to sell my G27 to get a Thrustmaster TX (for XB1 usage also), this plan is now on hold...
 
Skazz I made exactly your set up and here are my observations:

It definitely made easier to control the car but it was a bit too sterile, you felt great the car controls but the road became too perfect. I was saved from the horrible rumbling though.

I than went and added 10% to all 3 effect types, it made things a bit more interesting while still keeping all the advantages I had with your setup. Haven't noticed any hard rumbling yet.

By rumbling I mean the G27 makes a very hard noise like it's going to break, which I don't think is very healthy for the wheel to have. I only noticed in this game and not in Project Cars with the same FFB strength.

Edit: the ffb dead zone was reduced quite a lot, I love it :)
 
I may turn my 'fake' fbb back on. Because I think it is there to simulate the vibrations that a person may feel inside the interior of a car and the slip vibration helps prevent me from applying to much throttle when in corners or launching.
 
Ye try to find the sweet spot. Better if you increase slowly. You don't want too much effects, especially kurb :P
 

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