Negative camber - negative experience.

[Michael88]

I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong or if others have the same issue.

For me, negative camber will result in less grip in corners, no matter the tire, no matter the stiffness of the suspension, no matter the car. Every single time I increased negative camber I got much less grip in the corners and braking got a LOT worse also. The first thing I do when I buy a car that has adjustable suspension is to give it neutral camber.

It feels like the tire model is an inflexible rectangle, just going from neutral camber to 0.5° degree negative camber will result in serious loss of traction, and its only downhill from there.

In all other Gran Tourismo Games I played around a lot with camber settings and I would usually end up between 2-4 degree negative camber on the front and 1.5° at the rear. As far as I know that is also true with most racing cars in real life - I know some touring cars have up to 4 degrees of negative camber at the front wheels.

- I am using a wheel BTW, if that makes any difference -

 

[TumeK5]

You certainly don't use positive camber.

 

[SrGS]

There is something off about the way the physics works in GT7. I haven't been playing for a while, the game is just not so interesting as it was. But from what I can remember, in Gr.3 cars, the pp increases if you have more negative camber on the rear wheels than the front wheels, which makes no sense.

With that in mind, I wouldn't be surprised if what you experienced is actually how the game is programmed. I think the physics simulation in GT7 is not as complex as we are lead to believe, with such a spread range of adjustments in some parts (yet, we can't set tire pressure, and altitude/temperature doesn't seem to affect performance). Adjusting the suspension as we would in real life won't have the same effect in the game. Tuning a car in GT7 is an exercise to understand it's own physics.

 

[BangsMcCoy]

Each car is different in respect to how camber affects its handling. Some like a lot while other like a little. Each car has its own “sweet spot” which is also impacted by all other tuning abilities and settings of the car such as weight, hp and aero changes. If you pay attention and change/compare .1 at a time you will see how it affects the PP and in general the handling by how it changes the Stability and Rotational G specs as you change the camber. It will increase or decrease to a certain point and then will start going the opposite way once you cross that point. There is no 1 setting that will give you good results with all of your cars across the board.
In a high level generalization for a lot (not all) of road cars that sweet spot tends to be around 1.0 to 2.0 for the front and .5 to 1.5 in the rear but there are also some cars that handle like garbage with any more than .5 camber and also some that handling really decreases with less then 3.0 camber. It’s all very car specific and even depends based on what other modifications you’ve done to the car.
So if you buy a stock car and adjust only the camber but then later add all kinds of HP and aero parts you’ll see that you’ll need to make more adjustments to the camber again.

 

[F30clubman]

Tuning a car in GT7 is an exercise to understand it's own physics.

Well said. I was thinking in the same way about toe-in settings in GT7. As in the game stock some cars come with a toe-out on the front wheels.
In my experience toe-out front leads to strong vibrations in the steering wheel under braking. With toe-out rear the rear axle searches its way and makes the car dangerous and undriveable. Afaik a low toe-out value can only be used to counter the suspension deformation under acceleration on the driven axis in some cases. But it does not look like GT7 applies it that way.

But I'm differing from the topic here, sorry.