LogiForce
Premium
- 4,078
- Groningen, Netherlands
- LogiForce86
- LogiForce
Hi guys,
I recently made some discoveries concerning the force feedback system in Project CARS 2, and that was that it was lacking two forces (or actually moments) of the forces that work on the tyres in the game. These two forces/moments Mx (Overturning moment) and My (Rolling Resistance moment) weren't transmitted via the force feedback.
A long story short, and I explain it all in the link below, but the lack of these forces/moments has made the force feedback feel weird or ended up doing strange things. Certain cars nearly didn't have any force feedback at all, like the Ferrari FXX-K. The Caterham 620R felt like it had weak springs, and so on.
In the end that what I discovered was basically what Jack Spade was trying to compensate for in his force feedback files.
I also already received a kind and great comment that this FFB file has put Project CARS 2 force feedback close to Assetto Corsa's force feedback. Which I am sure will make a lot of you interested!
I hope you will try them out and see if you like them.
Link: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?66720-Christiaan-s-Pure-FFB-(Custom-pCARS2-FFB-File)
Oh yeah, one more thing! I don't remember how often I have been two wheeling cars for fun now, because the FFB is so good that I can stunt drive certain cars.
So yeah... old school DTM on two wheels anyone? Yup... the below video is easily done now and repeatable.
Recommended Settings:
These settings are just to start out with but feel free to experiment to your heart's content of course.
Depending on your wheel start with a default on-wheel/driver setting, but just make sure that you have the maximum amount of steering lock set and that the wheel is calibrated for that in-game.
As for in-game settings...
Gain: 100
Volume: 50-100*
Tone: 50
FX: 0-100**
*Adjust volume on a per car basis. Old cars and high downforce cars tend to clip the signal above 50, other cars you might need to set to 100. Watch the FFB meter in the in-game telemetry HUD, the last red bar on the right should never or rarely spike.
**The added effects can be added in as you desire. Feel free to experiment here, but I'd leave them off for starters.
TIP: Set buttons to adjust volume on your wheel, so that you can adjust the force feedback on the fly as you try out various cars.
NOTE: The FFB meter shows the amplitude of the force feedback from left to right. Each bar has an amplitude range. The height of the bars shows how much activity is within a certain force feedback range. You want to just keep the last red bar on the right unaffected as that means you are clipping.
The cars vary a lot in terms of individual force feedback strength calibration, but we already knew that from the past. So it's really a bit of adjusting and go, and as said... it's easiest to do that on the wheel. Although I find that the increments are quite coarse per button press.
Cheers and enjoy,
Christiaan
I recently made some discoveries concerning the force feedback system in Project CARS 2, and that was that it was lacking two forces (or actually moments) of the forces that work on the tyres in the game. These two forces/moments Mx (Overturning moment) and My (Rolling Resistance moment) weren't transmitted via the force feedback.
A long story short, and I explain it all in the link below, but the lack of these forces/moments has made the force feedback feel weird or ended up doing strange things. Certain cars nearly didn't have any force feedback at all, like the Ferrari FXX-K. The Caterham 620R felt like it had weak springs, and so on.
In the end that what I discovered was basically what Jack Spade was trying to compensate for in his force feedback files.
I also already received a kind and great comment that this FFB file has put Project CARS 2 force feedback close to Assetto Corsa's force feedback. Which I am sure will make a lot of you interested!
I hope you will try them out and see if you like them.
Link: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?66720-Christiaan-s-Pure-FFB-(Custom-pCARS2-FFB-File)
Oh yeah, one more thing! I don't remember how often I have been two wheeling cars for fun now, because the FFB is so good that I can stunt drive certain cars.
So yeah... old school DTM on two wheels anyone? Yup... the below video is easily done now and repeatable.
Recommended Settings:
These settings are just to start out with but feel free to experiment to your heart's content of course.
Depending on your wheel start with a default on-wheel/driver setting, but just make sure that you have the maximum amount of steering lock set and that the wheel is calibrated for that in-game.
As for in-game settings...
Gain: 100
Volume: 50-100*
Tone: 50
FX: 0-100**
*Adjust volume on a per car basis. Old cars and high downforce cars tend to clip the signal above 50, other cars you might need to set to 100. Watch the FFB meter in the in-game telemetry HUD, the last red bar on the right should never or rarely spike.
**The added effects can be added in as you desire. Feel free to experiment here, but I'd leave them off for starters.
TIP: Set buttons to adjust volume on your wheel, so that you can adjust the force feedback on the fly as you try out various cars.
NOTE: The FFB meter shows the amplitude of the force feedback from left to right. Each bar has an amplitude range. The height of the bars shows how much activity is within a certain force feedback range. You want to just keep the last red bar on the right unaffected as that means you are clipping.
The cars vary a lot in terms of individual force feedback strength calibration, but we already knew that from the past. So it's really a bit of adjusting and go, and as said... it's easiest to do that on the wheel. Although I find that the increments are quite coarse per button press.
Cheers and enjoy,
Christiaan
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