- 377
- Enzo_Guy
- GTP EnzoGuy
I don't own a 2J and that seems to be the only 650PP car people on here care about. I figured I can't be the only one out there without a 2J, so I went on a mission tuning and perfecting a group of unconventional 650PP cars that were capable of winning.
On all of these cars I wanted to use as much power as possible for erasing that gap the lead car develops, in order to run max power I cut the downforce to the minimum on every car and then created each tune compensate for it.
Lamborghini Diablo JGTC Race Car
An interesting random bit of racing history is that the Nomad Diablo GT-1 actually raced against a pair of McLaren F1 GTRs at Suzuka twice. They squared off in the '99 and '00 seasons of the JGTC GT500, the F1 GTR finished 14th in '99 and and the Diablo got 14th in '00.
Use it if you got it! The Diablo can bring up to 851hp to fit 650PP with minimum downforce and weighs in at 2650lbs, it's heavy but it can run pretty good. With the right driver it can get around the F1 GTR by lap 8, afterwards taking 1st your driver finish the race stone cold blue and the F1 GTR will not pose a threat.
Downforce:
F- 15
R- 30
You don't lose much grip with minimum downforce so it's worth trading for the extra juice.
Power:
You're going to need the big turbo (mid turbo doesn't make enough power) and stage 3 engine to make the cut for 650PP. It's got 847-851hp@7400rpm (depending on the state of your engine) and 685ft-lbs@5800rpm down at 97.3%. The power is there to beat even the F1 GTR, at this point your driver is the weakest link.
Transmission:
I used the pre-set for 211mph, no need to fool with anything here.
LSD:
Initial- 17
Acceleration- 18
Braking- 12
The LSD is very sensitive but it works miracles on this car. You'll know if it's off because even 1 click can cause the rear end to jerk around violently.
Suspension:
Ride height F/R- -15
Spring rate F- 17.4+/-0.4
Spring rate R- 18.0
Dampers extension/compression F- 8
Dampers extension/compression R- 9
Anti-roll bar F- 6
Anti-roll bar R- 7
The front feels heavy and has a habit of pushing into corners and creating annoying understeer. The softer settings make the front feel much lighter on turn in and gives the car a neutral balance. For adjustment to your preference start at 17.4 for the front moving by 0.1-0.2 at a time, stiffen it for more understeer, softening will further help the front turn in.
Alignment:
Camber F/R- 3.2+/-0.6
Toe F- -0.35
Toe R- +0.30
Front toe at -0.40 to also counteract the understeer. With the car's weight a good bit of camber is recommended for cornering speed. The downside is above 3.0 degrees we are losing a small bit of traction on corner exits. I like to run 3.2 degrees as the car corners well at that point without enough traction loss to concern me. With the front end already turning in much better I don't see the need to offset with more camber in the front, I like it equal to maintain the car's balance.
Brakes:
F/R- 7
When B-Spec drivers go red they start braking pretty late. Now I always give them a little more than needed which keeps them from overshooting at a critical moment.
Driver:
Tuned to these specs the Diablo can beat the McLaren F1 GTR 100% of the time, the weakest link will be the driver not having the skill or strength to do it. He must be capable of racing flat out in full red for all 10 laps, running out of strength is game over, and if he can't keep his cool while under heavy pressure then that 850hp V12 will be his worst enemy.
Peugeot 905
The little 905 is a solid choice for getting the job done. A best lap with a good driver can be as low as a 2:03, the car can usually get away early and starts making good time despite lacking power. The 905 is something jut about any bob with the necessary strength could jump in and consistently drive fast.
Downforce:
F- 30
R-50
This car needs the extra power badly.
Power:
With a 3.5L making 523hp@11900rpm and 395ft-lbs@6900rpm limited to 62.4% doesn't sound so spectacular compared to that 850hp 6.0L. The 905 weighs under 1600lbs, 1000lbs less than the Diablo, and the engine is the Peugeot racing 3.5L V10. It's basically an aluminum can with an F1 motor, hard to argue with that.
Transmission:
Start with the pre-set gears for 199mph, this will get the 905 close to 190mph on the main straight. Now adjust 1st gear to 4.926, 2nd gear to 3.387, and 3rd gear to 2.650. Downshifting to the original 1st gear caused the rear to lock up and skid, the others are for increased traction.
LSD:
Initial- 5
Acceleration- 11
Braking- 15
The racing rev range of the motor starts 3000rpm above the torque curve dropping off, don't need much LSD help and we can keep the initial low for better cornering.
Suspension:
Ride height F/R- -15
Spring rate F- 17.6
Spring rate R- 18.4
Dampers compression/extension F- 8
Dampers compression/extension R- 9
Anti-roll bars F- 6
Anti-roll bars R- 7
In raw acceleration every lead car has the 905 beat pretty good, if you can't maintain a higher speed through the corners you will find yourself running slower laps than the F1 GTR or GT. It's a straightforward universal tune for very sharp turn-in and maximum cornering speed that should not need to be adjusted to fit the driver. With no quirks or flaws in the handling the car will still display excellent control even at the very limit. This is a car any driver with enough skill could potentially drive as fast as possible and make almost no mistakes, out of my 6 drivers not a single one ever spun the car.
Alignment:
Camber F- 4.6
Camber R- 4.0
Toe F- -0.35
Toe R- +0.30
These settings are sufficient but this car is very versatile so you can tweak for more camber if desired, the LSD does a great job providing traction even with high rear camber (during testing I had this car up 8.0) just remember you may need to add 1 click to the acceleration only for every 0.4-0.6 degrees added in the rear.
Brakes:
F/R- 8
Definitely give those bobs powerful brakes, mine late brake like madmen in this car!
Driver:
My level 37 ice cold D. Cheney got the nod for this car and did very well with it. He got out of the pack early and was in 1st place for laps 9 and 10.
Your driver needs to have high strength to finish this race, he has to run full red to get in 1st and have enough strength remaining to survive the lead car tailgating to get back in 1st. There isn't any specific driver type required since the car is pretty simple for the general AI to go fast in, like I said they seem to love this little thing.
Pagani Zonda R
I have no idea why you would use this car for this race. Your driver is a moron AI known for being devoid of any discernible driving skill or common sense. He will be racing in what is considered one of the worst handling racecars in the game, so of course it would have an 816hp V12 racecar and weighs 2350lbs because huge power and low weight go well in a car that has some of the worst traction ever. A moron that can't drive in an uncontrollable racecar going 10 laps of maxed out red driving in the interest of trying to pass 10 opponents then catch a McLaren F1 GTR with a 30 second lead that is being driven by Mario Andretti.
Awesome! I thought I was the only one who thought it was a good idea at first!
Downforce:
F- 20
R-35
Those little plastic fin things all over the car were ugly so I took them off. They were just for looks, right?
Power:
Take the turbo kit off! Run naturally aspirated because the turbo on the Zonda is actually a ninja assassin in disguise. He waits until you're mid-corner rolling gently onto the throttle, everything is going well as you're thinking you may actually get through this corner successfully, and then BOOM NO TRACTION NINJA!
He makes your car lose control at the worst possible moment, this ninja strikes so quickly he leaves you no possible time to react to save the car, he is just hoping you will crash and die. If you're still alive he just waits to strike again soon. Get rid of the ninja that's trying to kill you to avoid his spontaneous traction attacks. Somehow getting rid of him won't actually improve the car's handling, life is just less stressful without him trying to kill you and now you can focus more on your frustrations with the car itself.
Transmission:
Your two best pre-set choices are 286mph or 205mph. The long gears are great and the best possible way to get traction. After switching to 286mph you may notice the acceleration decrease slightly but now those tires don't spin nearly as much! This slight loss of acceleration might also have a tiny effect on your driver's lap times during the race. Using the shorter gears means the Zonda can crack 200mph on the main straight which can slash valuable seconds off the lead car's gap. The short gears come with a small downside as well: if you like that set of tires don't go below 4th gear.
LSD:
Initial- 5
Acceleration- 5
Braking- 18
After much investigation that included consulting with MIT mathematicians, countless prayers to at least 14 different deities, the burning of one brand new tire as an offering to the car gods, and an attempt at kidnapping the Pope I have developed a theory. The LSD in this car is fake, it's a conspiracy to keep people with OCD busy for eternity. The menu for adjusting it is there and that part works correctly the only issue is adjusting it does absolutely nothing to the car. People with OCD will be tune the Zonda, adjust the LSD, nothing will change, they must tune the Zonda correctly, they readjust the LSD, nothing happens, and they continue in an eternal loop of adjusting it until they die. Either that or the owner of Pagani somehow pissed off people PD and they put the best Zonda in the game then intentionally made it so bad no one would ever want to drive it.
Suspension:
Ride height F/R- -30
Spring rate F- 18.3+/-0.5
Spring rate R- 18.6+/-0.4
Dampers compression/extension F/R- 9
Anti-roll bars- 7
I doubt anything in this suspension tune helped at all. Oh well, the numbers look cool on the screen and I don't think there's any way I could have made this car worse than it already was. Figuring out if it's worse involves actually driving it and I have no idea why I would bother doing that, there's no way to make this car not suck.
Alignment:
Camber F- 3.8
Camber R- 2.8
Toe angle F- -0.35
Toe angle R- +1.00
This bit actually looks like it could work. Who am I kidding? No B-Spec AI will ever be able to drive this car no matter what I do.
Brakes:
F/R- 8
If a Zonda had less braking stability would anyone even notice? If you're trying to race a Zonda R and you think the brakes need adjustment then I'm worried you may have missed a slightly larger issue...
Driver:
I tried 5 drivers all level 32+ and not one could keep it on the track. Finally I reluctantly tried my last option: the level 38 J. Hendrix. His driving style bar thing is 100% aggressive, the racing style he most closely resembles would be an axe murderer. His throttle technique is to hit it like a sledgehammer. He is easily the fastest driver I have, he just has this nasty habit of trying to go faster even when he's in first which means he wrecks on the last lap in close to 50% of his races then finishes in last. I have a Zonda R with 816hp, an open diff, and no downforce that is beyond difficult to drive, clearly the right man for the job is a psychopath that's high on meth! I still have no clue what I was thinking when I chose him for that race.
Barely into the first lap and Hendrix was already qualified for the next Formula D event, so I walked out in frustration thinking the Zonda was hopeless with that nutjob behind the wheel. I came back in a few minutes to find him almost done with lap 4. He was in 2nd place, he was already so far ahead of the pack I couldn't see any cars behind him, he was already consistently shaving 5 seconds off my fastest other driver's lap, as he started the 5th lap I saw he was just under 11 seconds faster than the 1st place McLaren F1! Fast forward to lap 8, hitting over 200mph on the straight brought him onto the F1's bumper into turn one. On the third corner he shot wide and braking late, he was coming up on the outside hot. That's when his instincts kicked in, he put the pedal to the floor in 2nd gear sending the car spinning into the sand. He lost almost 15 seconds, I figured 2nd place was good enough money and walked away again. I come back to see them on lap 10 with HENDRIX PUTTING A ZONDA BADGE UP THE MCLAREN'S BUMPER AGAIN! In a lap and a half he disintegrated a 15 second deficit and was back fighting for 1st place! They were coming up on the last corner, I was biting my nails as Hendrix blew wide trail braking again. I figured he would lose it and take 2nd at this point, but then he smacks the throttle open putting the rear sideways into a serious drift. My jaw hit the floor as he somehow blew by the McLaren on the outside while doing a perfect drift! He beat the F1 by 1.5 seconds! I was in shock, I had no idea how my most inconsistent driver whose entire racing technique is "floor it and hope it stays on the road" managed to pull off that miracle! I don't know if that could be repeated but it was pretty fun to watch and I thought I should share the tune that helped a lunatic in a Zonda beat a McLaren F1.
On all of these cars I wanted to use as much power as possible for erasing that gap the lead car develops, in order to run max power I cut the downforce to the minimum on every car and then created each tune compensate for it.
Lamborghini Diablo JGTC Race Car
An interesting random bit of racing history is that the Nomad Diablo GT-1 actually raced against a pair of McLaren F1 GTRs at Suzuka twice. They squared off in the '99 and '00 seasons of the JGTC GT500, the F1 GTR finished 14th in '99 and and the Diablo got 14th in '00.
Use it if you got it! The Diablo can bring up to 851hp to fit 650PP with minimum downforce and weighs in at 2650lbs, it's heavy but it can run pretty good. With the right driver it can get around the F1 GTR by lap 8, afterwards taking 1st your driver finish the race stone cold blue and the F1 GTR will not pose a threat.
Downforce:
F- 15
R- 30
You don't lose much grip with minimum downforce so it's worth trading for the extra juice.
Power:
You're going to need the big turbo (mid turbo doesn't make enough power) and stage 3 engine to make the cut for 650PP. It's got 847-851hp@7400rpm (depending on the state of your engine) and 685ft-lbs@5800rpm down at 97.3%. The power is there to beat even the F1 GTR, at this point your driver is the weakest link.
Transmission:
I used the pre-set for 211mph, no need to fool with anything here.
LSD:
Initial- 17
Acceleration- 18
Braking- 12
The LSD is very sensitive but it works miracles on this car. You'll know if it's off because even 1 click can cause the rear end to jerk around violently.
Suspension:
Ride height F/R- -15
Spring rate F- 17.4+/-0.4
Spring rate R- 18.0
Dampers extension/compression F- 8
Dampers extension/compression R- 9
Anti-roll bar F- 6
Anti-roll bar R- 7
The front feels heavy and has a habit of pushing into corners and creating annoying understeer. The softer settings make the front feel much lighter on turn in and gives the car a neutral balance. For adjustment to your preference start at 17.4 for the front moving by 0.1-0.2 at a time, stiffen it for more understeer, softening will further help the front turn in.
Alignment:
Camber F/R- 3.2+/-0.6
Toe F- -0.35
Toe R- +0.30
Front toe at -0.40 to also counteract the understeer. With the car's weight a good bit of camber is recommended for cornering speed. The downside is above 3.0 degrees we are losing a small bit of traction on corner exits. I like to run 3.2 degrees as the car corners well at that point without enough traction loss to concern me. With the front end already turning in much better I don't see the need to offset with more camber in the front, I like it equal to maintain the car's balance.
Brakes:
F/R- 7
When B-Spec drivers go red they start braking pretty late. Now I always give them a little more than needed which keeps them from overshooting at a critical moment.
Driver:
Tuned to these specs the Diablo can beat the McLaren F1 GTR 100% of the time, the weakest link will be the driver not having the skill or strength to do it. He must be capable of racing flat out in full red for all 10 laps, running out of strength is game over, and if he can't keep his cool while under heavy pressure then that 850hp V12 will be his worst enemy.
Peugeot 905
The little 905 is a solid choice for getting the job done. A best lap with a good driver can be as low as a 2:03, the car can usually get away early and starts making good time despite lacking power. The 905 is something jut about any bob with the necessary strength could jump in and consistently drive fast.
Downforce:
F- 30
R-50
This car needs the extra power badly.
Power:
With a 3.5L making 523hp@11900rpm and 395ft-lbs@6900rpm limited to 62.4% doesn't sound so spectacular compared to that 850hp 6.0L. The 905 weighs under 1600lbs, 1000lbs less than the Diablo, and the engine is the Peugeot racing 3.5L V10. It's basically an aluminum can with an F1 motor, hard to argue with that.
Transmission:
Start with the pre-set gears for 199mph, this will get the 905 close to 190mph on the main straight. Now adjust 1st gear to 4.926, 2nd gear to 3.387, and 3rd gear to 2.650. Downshifting to the original 1st gear caused the rear to lock up and skid, the others are for increased traction.
LSD:
Initial- 5
Acceleration- 11
Braking- 15
The racing rev range of the motor starts 3000rpm above the torque curve dropping off, don't need much LSD help and we can keep the initial low for better cornering.
Suspension:
Ride height F/R- -15
Spring rate F- 17.6
Spring rate R- 18.4
Dampers compression/extension F- 8
Dampers compression/extension R- 9
Anti-roll bars F- 6
Anti-roll bars R- 7
In raw acceleration every lead car has the 905 beat pretty good, if you can't maintain a higher speed through the corners you will find yourself running slower laps than the F1 GTR or GT. It's a straightforward universal tune for very sharp turn-in and maximum cornering speed that should not need to be adjusted to fit the driver. With no quirks or flaws in the handling the car will still display excellent control even at the very limit. This is a car any driver with enough skill could potentially drive as fast as possible and make almost no mistakes, out of my 6 drivers not a single one ever spun the car.
Alignment:
Camber F- 4.6
Camber R- 4.0
Toe F- -0.35
Toe R- +0.30
These settings are sufficient but this car is very versatile so you can tweak for more camber if desired, the LSD does a great job providing traction even with high rear camber (during testing I had this car up 8.0) just remember you may need to add 1 click to the acceleration only for every 0.4-0.6 degrees added in the rear.
Brakes:
F/R- 8
Definitely give those bobs powerful brakes, mine late brake like madmen in this car!
Driver:
My level 37 ice cold D. Cheney got the nod for this car and did very well with it. He got out of the pack early and was in 1st place for laps 9 and 10.
Your driver needs to have high strength to finish this race, he has to run full red to get in 1st and have enough strength remaining to survive the lead car tailgating to get back in 1st. There isn't any specific driver type required since the car is pretty simple for the general AI to go fast in, like I said they seem to love this little thing.
Pagani Zonda R
I have no idea why you would use this car for this race. Your driver is a moron AI known for being devoid of any discernible driving skill or common sense. He will be racing in what is considered one of the worst handling racecars in the game, so of course it would have an 816hp V12 racecar and weighs 2350lbs because huge power and low weight go well in a car that has some of the worst traction ever. A moron that can't drive in an uncontrollable racecar going 10 laps of maxed out red driving in the interest of trying to pass 10 opponents then catch a McLaren F1 GTR with a 30 second lead that is being driven by Mario Andretti.
Awesome! I thought I was the only one who thought it was a good idea at first!
Downforce:
F- 20
R-35
Those little plastic fin things all over the car were ugly so I took them off. They were just for looks, right?
Power:
Take the turbo kit off! Run naturally aspirated because the turbo on the Zonda is actually a ninja assassin in disguise. He waits until you're mid-corner rolling gently onto the throttle, everything is going well as you're thinking you may actually get through this corner successfully, and then BOOM NO TRACTION NINJA!
He makes your car lose control at the worst possible moment, this ninja strikes so quickly he leaves you no possible time to react to save the car, he is just hoping you will crash and die. If you're still alive he just waits to strike again soon. Get rid of the ninja that's trying to kill you to avoid his spontaneous traction attacks. Somehow getting rid of him won't actually improve the car's handling, life is just less stressful without him trying to kill you and now you can focus more on your frustrations with the car itself.Transmission:
Your two best pre-set choices are 286mph or 205mph. The long gears are great and the best possible way to get traction. After switching to 286mph you may notice the acceleration decrease slightly but now those tires don't spin nearly as much! This slight loss of acceleration might also have a tiny effect on your driver's lap times during the race. Using the shorter gears means the Zonda can crack 200mph on the main straight which can slash valuable seconds off the lead car's gap. The short gears come with a small downside as well: if you like that set of tires don't go below 4th gear.
LSD:
Initial- 5
Acceleration- 5
Braking- 18
After much investigation that included consulting with MIT mathematicians, countless prayers to at least 14 different deities, the burning of one brand new tire as an offering to the car gods, and an attempt at kidnapping the Pope I have developed a theory. The LSD in this car is fake, it's a conspiracy to keep people with OCD busy for eternity. The menu for adjusting it is there and that part works correctly the only issue is adjusting it does absolutely nothing to the car. People with OCD will be tune the Zonda, adjust the LSD, nothing will change, they must tune the Zonda correctly, they readjust the LSD, nothing happens, and they continue in an eternal loop of adjusting it until they die. Either that or the owner of Pagani somehow pissed off people PD and they put the best Zonda in the game then intentionally made it so bad no one would ever want to drive it.
Suspension:
Ride height F/R- -30
Spring rate F- 18.3+/-0.5
Spring rate R- 18.6+/-0.4
Dampers compression/extension F/R- 9
Anti-roll bars- 7
I doubt anything in this suspension tune helped at all. Oh well, the numbers look cool on the screen and I don't think there's any way I could have made this car worse than it already was. Figuring out if it's worse involves actually driving it and I have no idea why I would bother doing that, there's no way to make this car not suck.
Alignment:
Camber F- 3.8
Camber R- 2.8
Toe angle F- -0.35
Toe angle R- +1.00
This bit actually looks like it could work. Who am I kidding? No B-Spec AI will ever be able to drive this car no matter what I do.
Brakes:
F/R- 8
If a Zonda had less braking stability would anyone even notice? If you're trying to race a Zonda R and you think the brakes need adjustment then I'm worried you may have missed a slightly larger issue...
Driver:
I tried 5 drivers all level 32+ and not one could keep it on the track. Finally I reluctantly tried my last option: the level 38 J. Hendrix. His driving style bar thing is 100% aggressive, the racing style he most closely resembles would be an axe murderer. His throttle technique is to hit it like a sledgehammer. He is easily the fastest driver I have, he just has this nasty habit of trying to go faster even when he's in first which means he wrecks on the last lap in close to 50% of his races then finishes in last. I have a Zonda R with 816hp, an open diff, and no downforce that is beyond difficult to drive, clearly the right man for the job is a psychopath that's high on meth!
I still have no clue what I was thinking when I chose him for that race.Barely into the first lap and Hendrix was already qualified for the next Formula D event, so I walked out in frustration thinking the Zonda was hopeless with that nutjob behind the wheel. I came back in a few minutes to find him almost done with lap 4. He was in 2nd place, he was already so far ahead of the pack I couldn't see any cars behind him, he was already consistently shaving 5 seconds off my fastest other driver's lap, as he started the 5th lap I saw he was just under 11 seconds faster than the 1st place McLaren F1! Fast forward to lap 8, hitting over 200mph on the straight brought him onto the F1's bumper into turn one. On the third corner he shot wide and braking late, he was coming up on the outside hot. That's when his instincts kicked in, he put the pedal to the floor in 2nd gear sending the car spinning into the sand. He lost almost 15 seconds, I figured 2nd place was good enough money and walked away again. I come back to see them on lap 10 with HENDRIX PUTTING A ZONDA BADGE UP THE MCLAREN'S BUMPER AGAIN! In a lap and a half he disintegrated a 15 second deficit and was back fighting for 1st place! They were coming up on the last corner, I was biting my nails as Hendrix blew wide trail braking again. I figured he would lose it and take 2nd at this point, but then he smacks the throttle open putting the rear sideways into a serious drift. My jaw hit the floor as he somehow blew by the McLaren on the outside while doing a perfect drift! He beat the F1 by 1.5 seconds! I was in shock, I had no idea how my most inconsistent driver whose entire racing technique is "floor it and hope it stays on the road" managed to pull off that miracle! I don't know if that could be repeated but it was pretty fun to watch and I thought I should share the tune that helped a lunatic in a Zonda beat a McLaren F1.
Always wins by 4th lap.
