Noob question thread

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Can there be a noob question thread, so every time I have a small question i don't have to hijack another thread or create a new one?

I'll start if off: I want to keep the oversteer/understeer balance the same when adding camber to my car; how do i do this? Set front and rear camber at the same level, then lower rear camber until the rear of the car can rotate? MR drivetrain if it matters
 
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Adding front camber will increase oversteer, adding rear camber will increase understeer. Obviously you can flip that, reduce front camber to increase understeer, reduce rear camber to increase oversteer.

That's the simplistic view...

{Cy}
 
You just created one. Just remove the question mark and you have your "noobs question thread".:cheers:
 
In relation to camber...

It depends also on how much roll the car has and how raked the corners are. If the car has lots of body roll, meaning the center of mass is displaced further from the center of the wheelbase, the "weight" of the car will push down on the tire at an angle. One of the jobs of negative camber is to angle the tire's contact patch so that the "weight" pushes more evenly on it and you get more grip around corners. Of course, more grippy tires means more cornering force, thus more body roll and the 'right' amount of camber increases.

But if the front of your car rolls a lot, and the rear does not roll much, and you try to introduce understeer by increasing the rear camber, the rear may get less grip because its no longer having its contact patch perpendicular to the direction of the force being applied to the tire. So the result can be skewed.

But that is on a flat course. If the corner is raked, depending on the angle of rake, that may mean that you get more grip by having more than "enough" camber.

Some cars also, like the Ford Mustang, have a live axle so that when one tire lifts, its camber is changed (the wheel moving up, say the outside, points inward, like and \ and the outside wheel mimics it so the wheels look like this: /---/ with the left wheel (imagine you are looking at the rear bumper of the car facing away from you) bumped up or this \---\ with the right wheel bumped up. Using camber can make it grip better so that when cornering at an angle, the tires look like this /---| and |----\. This will give the rear more grip, and thus introduce understeer compared to whatever the setup had before you adjusted the camber.

Make sense?
 
Adding front camber will increase oversteer, adding rear camber will increase understeer. Obviously you can flip that, reduce front camber to increase understeer, reduce rear camber to increase oversteer.

That's the simplistic view...

{Cy}

i'm running 2.5/1.5 on sports soft tires and that seems to be working . Also, thanks for your input ghostZ

Another question: i've been reading that some of the suspension settings are reversed but the posts are from 2011 so has it been patched?
 
In relation to camber...

...snip...

All true in real life, not necessarily true in GT5.

i'm running 2.5/1.5 on sports soft tires and that seems to be working . Also, thanks for your input ghostZ

Another question: i've been reading that some of the suspension settings are reversed but the posts are from 2011 so has it been patched?

You're referring to the "ride height bug" where cars tended towards oversteer by raising, not lowering the front suspension. That has since been patched.
 
You're referring to the "ride height bug" where cars tended towards oversteer by raising, not lowering the front suspension. That has since been patched.

Be more specific when you say 'front suspension' as it can be misleading.
Or at least debated.
 
Be more specific when you say 'front suspension' as it can be misleading.
Or at least debated.

The part of the car where the turning wheels are? Or maybe I should have said the front "ride height" as opposed to front suspension.
 
The part of the car where the turning wheels are? Or maybe I should have said the front "ride height" as opposed to front suspension.

I assumed you were talking about within the settings, where we tune the car.
Is your standpoint, that everything on the left side, 'higher' equals 'understeer'?
 
I have a noob question: How do I tune a vintage muscle car so it turns better than a tugboat? Is there no hope for my Superbird besides a career in Daytona? Nothing I do seems to help its ability to turn at speeds over 60mph.
 
All true in real life, not necessarily true in GT5.

I've tested the Live Axle thing at least with the Mustangs (including the standard one) and it works. The rest is obvious, otherwise there wouldn't be a grip benefit to increasing camber on flat corners, which GT5 obviously has.

Now, to what degree the change is may not be as real, but the relationship is at least in the game. That's the important thing.

One notable thing is that in GT5 the tire doesn't change shape, as far as I know, and beyond camber, toe, and corner shape the contact patch doesn't deform. This is just intuition from how I've experienced the game though.
 
But spring rate settings are still the opposite of real life?
For more rear grip, rear settings should be higher than front
for more front grip, front settings should be higher than rear
 
I have a noob question: How do I tune a vintage muscle car so it turns better than a tugboat? Is there no hope for my Superbird besides a career in Daytona? Nothing I do seems to help its ability to turn at speeds over 60mph.

Adrenaline has set up a page where you can access every tune, just click on: http://www.adrenatune.com/ (Look under 'Vintage Muscle Cars'.)

Welcome to :gtpflag: :)
 
For the life of me I can't seem to find a single Superbird tune from after v2.09; most are from like 2.01 when the vintage muscle car seasonal was posted—and that seems to ruin the tunes—which is why I asked in here. :)
 
For the life of me I can't seem to find a single Superbird tune from after v2.09; most are from like 2.01 when the vintage muscle car seasonal was posted—and that seems to ruin the tunes—which is why I asked in here. :)

This is true, but you'd be surprised how many older tunes still work well. Was actually testing and tuning a Z06 RM Vette last night. Started at the bottom of the list and worked my way up(most recent to oldest). The oldest tune was the one that worked best.

Regardless, even if the older tunes aren't perfect, they can provide a good starting point. Then use tuning guides to tweak to your preference.

For Muscle Cars though... sometimes you just have to accept that 60 years of technology can't be tuned into a leaf spring, solid rear axle. Not to mention the heavy nature of the cars to begin with, coupled with bad weight distributions.
 
Oh, is that how they're sorted? That's good to know.

I took your advice and gave some of the other old tunes a shot—I had tried a couple previously and they drove like boats so I wrote them all off as bad due to aging poorly—and I found one that wasn't awful and managed to tweak it myself into at least drivable condition.

I just love the look of the classic muscle cars so I keep hoping I'll find one that can be tuned into if not a proper racing car I can use to win events with then at least one that's fun to drive around tracks besides Daytona and Indy. Maybe I'll get lucky some day.
 
Oh, is that how they're sorted? That's good to know.

I took your advice and gave some of the other old tunes a shot—I had tried a couple previously and they drove like boats so I wrote them all off as bad due to aging poorly—and I found one that wasn't awful and managed to tweak it myself into at least drivable condition.

I just love the look of the classic muscle cars so I keep hoping I'll find one that can be tuned into if not a proper racing car I can use to win events with then at least one that's fun to drive around tracks besides Daytona and Indy. Maybe I'll get lucky some day.

Not necessarily sorted, but anytime I add a tune, I just put it on the bottom.
Unless it's my own tune, in which case I put it at the top. Although in hindsight that might be counter intuitive...
 
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