Oversteer correction with a wheel

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Dragonbeard

Dragonbeard

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LarsDragonbeard
So this weekend I got my wheel (DFGT) and started practicing. While I expected to suck in the beginning I was a little surprised at the fact that I simply cannot recover from any kind of oversteer.
I know that in some situations, like braking with one wheel on the grass or getting a nudge from an AI make you a goner.
Will this get better with practice and are there any tips that can get me to catch oversteer in time?

Also, is it normal that traction loss seemed a lot easier to feel on a DS3 than it is on a wheel?
 
Practice practice practice and stay off the grass 👍
 
Start with a low power FF stock car (ex. Clio RS) in a easy track like Autumn Ring Mini so you can get used to the weigh transfer and all the forces you fell thru the wheel, and then practice...
 
Goruk
Start with a low power FF stock car (ex. Clio RS) in a easy track like Autumn Ring Mini so you can get used to the weigh transfer and all the forces you fell thru the wheel, and then practice...
Click to expand...
Yeah, I have noticed that FF and 4WD cars are an absolute cakewalk with a wheel. They don't oversteer either (unless a 4WD is badly tuned and badly driven).

I'm wondering if oversteer with a DS3 causes the rumble to go off, while if grip is maintained with the front wheels during oversteer with a wheel causes no force-feedback (until the front-wheels start turning, but by then it's too late)
 
Good news:
You'll get better. :)

Bad news:
When I race my friends in GT5, the recoveries they do with DS3, is impossible with my wheel. :(
Haven't tried in GT6 yet, but seems by your comment, that it's the same.
 
Recoveries will a wheel are still the same as GT5/
 
Dragonbeard
So this weekend I got my wheel (DFGT) and started practicing. While I expected to suck in the beginning I was a little surprised at the fact that I simply cannot recover from any kind of oversteer.
I know that in some situations, like braking with one wheel on the grass or getting a nudge from an AI make you a goner.
Will this get better with practice and are there any tips that can get me to catch oversteer in time?
Also, is it normal that traction loss seemed a lot easier to feel on a DS3 than it is on a wheel?
Click to expand...

You don't correct oversteer with just the wheel. It's a product of your acceleration and steering. Use the gas/brakes. Trail braking gives the best stability.
It will get better with practice.
The feeling of having control over a Lotus with no TC is better than.... well let's say it's better than some of the sex I've had ;-)
 
Your best bet is ALWAYS to catch it before it's a real slide. As soon as grip starts to be lost, regain it before it's all gone. The best way to recover a slide is to stop it before you're sideways.

Let off the gas and steer "out", just for a half second, it's probably all you need to stop it from progressing. Turn the wheel back onto the racing line and smoothly re-apply throttle like you meant to do that. You might be slower than powering through on the racing line, but it's a whole lot faster than being backwards in the sand.

I use a G27, racing with reduced Degrees of Rotation means that the wheel turns "faster" and you hit lock sooner, letting you catch slides more easily.

There's a few threads on it in the hardware section, but basically you hold start+select at the same time and tap "x" for full (900) degrees, "o" for a nice reduction, box for a huge reduction, or triangle if you want to turn your wheel into a d-pad.

I use the "o", and it makes a huge difference in how easy it is to catch a slide.

Other than that, practice.

It'll be natural in no time.
 
Some good advice already posted. I'll just add that what you need to get better at is sensing the slide in the force feedback of the wheel. It's different than in real life, where you feel the car stepping out with your butt. But the principal is the same as others have mentioned, get to it before it gets to you. ;)

I would not suggest practicing with "easy" cars. That's good to get the feel of the wheel, but it's not going to help you with car control. I would suggest practicing with an MR. Lotus might be too lively at first. Try the Mazda "Autozam" AZ-1. It's a Kei car, low powered, light. But still will let you learn some of the techniques needed to catch slides and control the car mid turn. Karts are also good, but trickier.

Not shameless self promotion, but the only video example I have of what I'm talking about is real life. Around 2 minutes, I go into turn 10 too hot and have to catch the car before it starts doing bad things. :lol: Several other counter steer examples on the lap. Some of them anticipating behavior of the car from other laps.

 
alright, many thanks for the tips all, I guess practice will tell.

raytard
I use a G27, racing with reduced Degrees of Rotation means that the wheel turns "faster" and you hit lock sooner, letting you catch slides more easily.

There's a few threads on it in the hardware section, but basically you hold start+select at the same time and tap "x" for full (900) degrees, "o" for a nice reduction, box for a huge reduction, or triangle if you want to turn your wheel into a d-pad.

I use the "o", and it makes a huge difference in how easy it is to catch a slide.
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I actually wanna keep the full 900 degrees, as this is what most production cars use in real-life too, while using the reduced angles on cars that don't run with 900 degree steering.
I'm guessing there's no way to tell gt6 to just use the "real" steering angles, cause a group c car with 900 degrees is fairly unreal, or am I wrong here?
 
Dragonbeard
alright, many thanks for the tips all, I guess practice will tell.


I actually wanna keep the full 900 degrees, as this is what most production cars use in real-life too, while using the reduced angles on cars that don't run with 900 degree steering.
I'm guessing there's no way to tell gt6 to just use the "real" steering angles, cause a group c car with 900 degrees is fairly unreal, or am I wrong here?
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I've always used full 900 degree rotation.

For LMP and F1 cars, the game seems to correct for you, to some extent. You don't need to give the wheel much input to get the cars to turn. Less is more.
 
Agree fully with @EDK and @raytard the real trick with a wheel is learning the limits of each car and not exceeding them as it is more difficult to recover from massive oversteer with a wheel. One thing I've noticed about the majority of "slower" drivers in GT is their entry speed into a corner is too high to begin with. They can't hold the inside line where all the rubber and grip is and usually end up fast in and slow out. Going in too fast in an MR with a wheel is even slower because you'll spend all your time correcting the slide, rather than getting the power down for exit. Smooth first above all else and the speed will come.

Pay particular attention to how deep and hard you brake into a corner. Some cars like the BRZ you can brake anywhere and you're fine. Other cars like the Ferrari Dino if you even look at the brake pedal while cornering hard you are going to spin. Each car/corner/track/tire combination is slightly different and one of the joys of the GT series is discovering and mastering each of those combinations. It will come in time, just forget what you learned while using the DS3 and basically start over.
 
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Johnnypenso
It will come in time, just forget what you learned while using the DS3 and basically start over.
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This is exactly what I've been doing. Just started the career again from scratch, buying new cars as I go along too, since I have the cash to spare now.
Finished the national B's yesterday, aside from the occasional spin out in an FR, it was pretty easy.
I've been running FF, FR and 4WD, to make sure I don't create too much bad habits just driving one layout.
 
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