Paint dilemma

[Slicks]

I'm doing a model of a '26 Ford Sedan Delivery. I've put a coat of primer, then a mist coat, before the final 2 wetcoats. My problem is, that on the 2nd wetcoat the whole body & fenders, and hood orange peeled, although from more than 2 feet away it is unnoticeable. The other parts are OK, though. I would simply sand everything down (I've already had to do this 3 times before due to runs, so body details are fading), but I don't feel like spending another $19 on 2 cans of paint. So, do I:
1. Leave it as is, and don't let anyone see it up close.
2. Give the body a light sand and lay clearcoat over it.
3. Sand the paint in places and chop the top to make a rat rod.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Due to a lack of a digital camera, pictures of the model are unavailable. However, I can scan the box if anyone wants to see pictures of what the model should look like.

PS. - I have no clue what went wrong, as I left the 1st wetcoat for 2 days before the second wetcoat. It was covered, and the temp/humidity @ time of painting were similar to the rest of the coats.

 

[Anderton Prime]

It sounds like you're having some trouble using spray cans. Did I understand you correctly when you said you've already had to sand this model down three times because of runs? If s, you may be holding your spray can too close to the model, or you may be holding it in one place too long until there is too much paint on the model and it runs. You should do several coats of paint, probably 3 or maybe even 4, and you should sweep the can across your model, pressing the button before you are over the model and releasing it after you have passed it. You should hold the can about 9-10 inches from the model or more, and let the paint droplets fall onto the model. Once you've done two or three base coats, you can do your final "wet" coat (or even do two wet coats, though you might have to buy a second can of paint and I realize this is expensive). For the wet coat you should do the same thing as the base coats, but go over the model a little slower and more than once or twice. Also, KEEP MOVING / ROTATING YOUR MODEL WHILE PAINTING! Don't do one spot until it's covered in paint and then move to another spot. Instead, sweep across the whole model, blanketing it in a coat of paint. I usually do the hood, roof, and trunk, then one side, then the other, then front bumper, then rear bumper, then hood, roof, trunk, side, side, bumper, bumper, etc. until that coat is complete.

As for advice for your current model, I know I couldn't live with a model with an imperfect paintjob, because you just KNOW people you show it to will notice that peeling. I would sand it a fourth time and re-apply the final coat.

I'm not sure why the model would be peeling, though. You mentioned that you did use primer, but which brand? I use one layer of Tamiya grey primer, followed by one layer of Tamiya White primer for any colour other than silver, grey, or black. I have used Tamiya's acrylic paints and primers exclusively for the last few years, and none of my models has ever peeled. Perhaps you're using one brand of primer and another company's paint? That could cause a compatibility problem that may be leading to you peeling predicament...

Hope I helped...

 

[Slicks]

It sounds like you're having some trouble using spray cans. Did I understand you correctly when you said you've already had to sand this model down three times because of runs? If s, you may be holding your spray can too close to the model, or you may be holding it in one place too long until there is too much paint on the model and it runs. You should do several coats of paint, probably 3 or maybe even 4, and you should sweep the can across your model, pressing the button before you are over the model and releasing it after you have passed it.

Runs and orange peel have been problematic, moreso runs until this last incident. I have been using correct spray techniques. The problem is that the side of the model is 3+ inches of vertical plastic. I have not tried tilting it for paint, as my stand is part of a 2x4 on its side (not very versatile). I think that one reason I always end up with crappy paint is because I seldom get a 2-3 day stretch of weather with high enough temp/low humidity for painting.
I usually do one side of the body at a time, as the table I use is too large to reach across.

You should hold the can about 9-10 inches from the model or more, and let the paint droplets fall onto the model. Once you've done two or three base coats, you can do your final "wet" coat (or even do two wet coats, though you might have to buy a second can of paint and I realize this is expensive). For the wet coat you should do the same thing as the base coats, but go over the model a little slower and more than once or twice. Also, KEEP MOVING / ROTATING YOUR MODEL WHILE PAINTING! Don't do one spot until it's covered in paint and then move to another spot. Instead, sweep across the whole model, blanketing it in a coat of paint. I usually do the hood, roof, and trunk, then one side, then the other, then front bumper, then rear bumper, then hood, roof, trunk, side, side, bumper, bumper, etc. until that coat is complete.

As for advice for your current model, I know I couldn't live with a model with an imperfect paintjob, because you just KNOW people you show it to will notice that peeling. I would sand it a fourth time and re-apply the final coat.

I'm not sure why the model would be peeling, though. You mentioned that you did use primer, but which brand? I use one layer of Tamiya grey primer, followed by one layer of Tamiya White primer for any colour other than silver, grey, or black. I have used Tamiya's acrylic paints and primers exclusively for the last few years, and none of my models has ever peeled. Perhaps you're using one brand of primer and another company's paint? That could cause a compatibility problem that may be leading to you peeling predicament...

Hope I helped...

I am not using matching brands for paint, but I doubt it is the cause of orange peeling. I am using Plasi-kote gray primer and Colors By Boyd 'Roadstar Florida Orange Pearl' enamel. I doubt it is a brand conflict, because it would have shown up in the 1st wetcoat (which was perfect). I would simply sand the body and recoat it, but I am completely out of this paint. I have already gone through 2 85 gram cans (at over $8.50/can) on a 25 dollar model.
Do you think it would work to lightly sand off the orange peel and do a layer of clearcoat, or would it peel more and/or show through?


And I may have figured out what I screwed up. I had about a 40 minute period to do the 2nd wetcoat. Because of this, I did not wash the body. I think solvents were sitting on the paint, since it had been a full 2 days since the last coat.
Anyway, that's all for now.

 

[69Dodge_Charger]

As far as what you should do, it's really up to you.

When you are painting, hold the can about elbow to hands length from the model and spray mist coats. You don't want to do the whole body in one or even two coats. To get the best results you should probably be doing 3 or 4 mist coats, after the 4 or so it should be completely covered.

This will lay the paint out thinner and will prevent chips in the paint and runs as well. I'm sure Anderton said some of that in his post, but I thought I would give some input.

 

[Slicks]

Already said, but much appreciated either way.

 

[High-Test]

Oh, god, not the '26 Ford Model T by revell is it? Cruddy Quality kit, I've had to glue the wheels to the axle, and on top of that, nothing fits together right and the Frame rails were bent.

I used Color by boyd Florida Orange Pearl on mine, had paint troubles too.

 

[Slicks]

That model exactly. My frame rails weren't bent, but the body itself was!! Above the drivers side rear window, the body curved in about 1/4 in. The 3 peice hood assembly don't fit right, either. Same paint, as well. What did you do to cure your paint troubles (and what should I do with mine?).

 

[High-Test]

That model exactly. My frame rails weren't bent, but the body itself was!! Above the drivers side rear window, the body curved in about 1/4 in. The 3 peice hood assembly don't fit right, either. Same paint, as well. What did you do to cure your paint troubles (and what should I do with mine?).

My body was bent in a little bit, so I used the roof as a lever overnight to bring out the sides. hood assembly for me was crap, and I used light coats, but that paint sticks to anything even 24 hours after painting. (mine has dead skin on it in a couple spots. )
Usually, Revell makes Good Quality Kits, but this one was a waste of 1:25 scale Halibrand Mags. (no way to get them to stay on without huge globs of glue)

If I were you, I would do very light mist coats, and hold the can extremely level. Just take your time. If worst comes to worst,blast the body with flat black and mist it with the orange, trust me, I did it with Boyd's green metalflake on a 67 Charger, and the color is very pretty.

 

[Slicks]

I would simply do that. However, I have already spent almost as much on paint as I have for the purchase of the model. I don't want to spray it black, red, or yellow (all colors which I currently have) because my other models are those colors. Perhaps a light sand and a coat of clear?? I dunno. I'll just let it sit in the box for a while and then figure it out when I'm willing to spend more $$ on it.

 

[High-Test]

What I meant was you could cover the orange with black, and mist the Black with orange to make a very dark, and very cool looking Dark Metallic Orange. Would you happen to have the Testors Model sand paper?

 

[Slicks]

No, I don't. All I've got is 400 grit and below. I forget the brand, but I know it's not Testors. I don't think I want to mist black on over the current paintjob because I still have to get rid of the orange peel, which will leave bare spots. I really like the color that is already on, but like I said, I'll wait a while before I continue. Mainly so that I don't throw it across a room in frustration (The paint up to this coat had been perfect)

 

[High-Test]

I know how you feel. Just wait it out, you'll think of something.

 

[Robin]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but ive only got one question about paint

Ok basically ive sprayed some ABS plastic with matt black then put laquer on it...... looks great, everything was fine until that plastic got dusty so i stupidly used isopropyl alcohol to wipe it (I use it for everything else and had no problems)..... instantly to my horror the surface turns white and appears to be cracking and misting over, I quickly rub it with everything like a wet cloth even soap and its still stained....... basically the alchohol has melted the laquer coat and messed it up.....

Is there any way of removing this mark (well its like misty and smudged all over the piece) without having to respray anything?

Can I just respray laquer over it all and hope that it melts the mark underneath back to the way it was and return the shine?

I know there probably isnt many people out there on GTP who have an answer when it comes to paint, but if anyone has any tips it would be really great cos im feeling abit upset now because it look me ages to spray it to a perfect finish.....that the last time I use rubbing alchohol on paint!

Many thanks, Robin

 

[wfooshee]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but ive only got one question about paint

Ok basically ive sprayed some ABS plastic with matt black then put laquer on it...... looks great, everything was fine until that plastic got dusty so i stupidly used isopropyl alcohol to wipe it (I use it for everything else and had no problems)..... instantly to my horror the surface turns white and appears to be cracking and misting over, I quickly rub it with everything like a wet cloth even soap and its still stained....... basically the alchohol has melted the laquer coat and messed it up.....

Is there any way of removing this mark (well its like misty and smudged all over the piece) without having to respray anything?

Can I just respray laquer over it all and hope that it melts the mark underneath back to the way it was and return the shine?

I know there probably isnt many people out there on GTP who have an answer when it comes to paint, but if anyone has any tips it would be really great cos im feeling abit upset now because it look me ages to spray it to a perfect finish.....that the last time I use rubbing alchohol on paint!

Many thanks, Robin

I don't know of anything to clean that up, myself. Was the lacquer color or clear? I don't think even color would cover the mark, though.

Dusting tip: canned air, fairly expensive, but works well. Soft, VERY SOFT paint brush after blowing with canned air.

 

[Robin]

I don't know of anything to clean that up, myself. Was the lacquer color or clear? I don't think even color would cover the mark, though.

Dusting tip: canned air, fairly expensive, but works well. Soft, VERY SOFT paint brush after blowing with canned air.

It was clear lacquer and the alcohol must have been too agressive for it, I really cant think what to do now, I may have tojust try and spray more laquer on it because hopefully that will melt the mark away, in thoery the black colour base coat beneath it should still be intact.

As for canned air, I would love to get some but as you said its really expensive, I do use a brush to clean complex stuff but this was just a large surface so wiped it..... stupidly with alcohol which I always thought was harmless!

Robin

 

[wfooshee]

It was clear lacquer and the alcohol must have been too agressive for it, I really cant think what to do now, I may have tojust try and spray more laquer on it because hopefully that will melt the mark away, in thoery the black colour base coat beneath it should still be intact.

As for canned air, I would love to get some but as you said its really expensive, I do use a brush to clean complex stuff but this was just a large surface so wiped it..... stupidly with alcohol which I always thought was harmless!

Robin

Wiping almost always leads to scratches, even with a fluid to "soften" the blow. Softening the finish was obviously not intended, but that can happen, too.

 

[Slicks]

What I would try, is a light sand and a coat of primer. That'll create a barrier between the isopropyl alcohol and the next layer of paint, and hopefully should prevent it from spoiling the finish again. Then try repainting it.

I can't think of anything you could do to simply restore the current finish, it's wrecked by the sound of it. Since you can't undo a chemical reaction, you're hooped.

Oh, and I just thought I'd say, and I'm embarrassed to say it, that I'm still not done that Model T. It's in a box, and I need to fill and prime it before I attempt another (3rd try) paint job. And painting season's over, since it's been too cold and humid to paint in the garage.

 

[Robin]

What I would try, is a light sand and a coat of primer. That'll create a barrier between the isopropyl alcohol and the next layer of paint, and hopefully should prevent it from spoiling the finish again. Then try repainting it.

I can't think of anything you could do to simply restore the current finish, it's wrecked by the sound of it. Since you can't undo a chemical reaction, you're hooped.

Oh, and I just thought I'd say, and I'm embarrassed to say it, that I'm still not done that Model T. It's in a box, and I need to fill and prime it before I attempt another (3rd try) paint job. And painting season's over, since it's been too cold and humid to paint in the garage.

Thanks for the reply, yeah im starting to thing there is no way around it and that its ruined, all I can hope is that maybe the paint underneath is ok but im going to have to sand away the primer and start again..... It was stupid of me to use alcohol on it anyway! oh well, you live and learn! You cannot spray paint over primer right? because that causes another horrible reaction right?

 

[Slicks]

You can paint over primer, but I'd make sure it's fresh, not the alcohol-soaked stuff.

I'm not sure what you're working on, here, but I would reccomend that you simply use brake fluid to take the paint off.

Get a basin, can, or something of the sort, and put the part in. Pour brake fluid or Castrol Super Clean (get either at an auto parts store) over it, and let it sit for a while (5 or 6 hours should do the trick). Then the paint comes off by rubbing it. Wash the part thoroughly in soap and water (even dishsoap, mabye), and rinse it clean. That saves alot of effort in sanding and trying to get the surface smooth again.

 

[High-Test]

Oh, and I just thought I'd say, and I'm embarrassed to say it, that I'm still not done that Model T. It's in a box, and I need to fill and prime it before I attempt another (3rd try) paint job. And painting season's over, since it's been too cold and humid to paint in the garage.

Don't be. That kit sucks at life, anyway.