Pedal Calibration

  • Thread starter Roggers
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So in the new update we can adjust the pedal calibration.
Just set everything to 100% and my braking at the minute is awful, yet somehow I’m still setting the same times as before the update… Finding it a bit tricky on some corners especially the slow corners, but on the medium-fast corners I feel so much quicker.
 
Love that they finally have made this a option! I set the brake to 80% and it felt heavier than what I have become used to but not in a bad way. I also increased the dead zone on the brake and throttle up by a few % so I can rest my foot on them without any input. 🍻 not sure if it has affected my times at all because I’ve only been trying out the new time trial and track.
 
I set the brake to 80% and it felt heavier than what I have become used to but not in a bad way.
This is all new to me. Can you explain the benefit of the 80% setting? Does it compress the full range of the brake to a shorter pedal stroke, or is something else going on?
 
This is all new to me. Can you explain the benefit of the 80% setting? Does it compress the full range of the brake to a shorter pedal stroke, or is something else going on?
From what I understand is that if you set/calibrate a pedal at say 80% is that you will get 100% of braking force the game allows at 80% of the travel/pressure on the pedal.
I use a g29. 🍻
 
Love that they finally have made this a option! I set the brake to 80% and it felt heavier than what I have become used to but not in a bad way. I also increased the dead zone on the brake and throttle up by a few % so I can rest my foot on them without any input. 🍻 not sure if it has affected my times at all because I’ve only been trying out the new time trial and track.
I set my max brake to 95% and it made a difference. A good one. I'll stick with it. I didn't fiddle with the deadzone because I really like a very sensitive brake pedal. Those slight caresses to get me through a corner while on throttle are necessary for me.
 
I set my max brake to 95% and it made a difference. A good one. I'll stick with it. I didn't fiddle with the deadzone because I really like a very sensitive brake pedal. Those slight caresses to get me through a corner while on throttle are necessary for me.
Yeah after running the new settings I’m finding its making a big difference. Adjusting the muscle memory on the brake pedal been the big challenge but I’m finding that I can trail braking some corners. Hopefully I with the new settings I can cut out another half a second.
 
This is all new to me. Can you explain the benefit of the 80% setting? Does it compress the full range of the brake to a shorter pedal stroke, or is something else going on?
Yeah, when you set it to 80% in game, that means that as soon as you hit 80% of what the brake pedal can do, in game it will register as 100%.
It's a good feature, I believe, when your brake pedal is quite stiff and it's difficult to get it fully pressed.
I disliked the G29 brake pedal for that exact reason
 
Yeah, when you set it to 80% in game, that means that as soon as you hit 80% of what the brake pedal can do, in game it will register as 100%.
It's a good feature, I believe, when your brake pedal is quite stiff and it's difficult to get it fully pressed.
I disliked the G29 brake pedal for that exact reason
I assume you drive with socks?

I have the T-LCM with RED/RED springs and complete washers... BUT I ride in shoes... that's really different then. But I also drive according to pressure and not according to distance.
 
It's also great for people like me who use a modified double break pedal on the G29 so I can disable the clutch.

Like I've said before though - would be good to save them as pre-sets to switch between them (not that removing the double pedal is a matter of seconds jobs)
 
I assume you drive with socks?

I have the T-LCM with RED/RED springs and complete washers... BUT I ride in shoes... that's really different then. But I also drive according to pressure and not according to distance.
Now I do, but when I had my G29 I used shoes. Still I prefer my soft CSL brake pedal.
It all comes down to personal preference
 
It's also great for people like me who use a modified double break pedal on the G29 so I can disable the clutch.

Like I've said before though - would be good to save them as pre-sets to switch between them (not that removing the double pedal is a matter of seconds jobs)
What’s this double brake pedal you speak of?🍻
 
Yeah I’m doing a 24h stream for Charity on GT7 in the R18 ‘16 at Le Mans and we kept hitting the clutch instead of the brake in practice some times so we got this to mitigate it
 
Guys? How do I access this option on GT7?
I simply aint founding it!!!
Need to go to options I’m the top left of the screen by clicking the GT logo. It’s on page two where you see the wheel calibration, and then it’s the top right box.
 
Does it have a default setting option or do I need to write the settings down before making any changes?
 
anyone have any luck using the e-brake calibration? what analog e-brake are you using? I'm using a g923 and am curious what e-brake (if any) can be used with it.
 
Recently got T3PM's and I'm finding the brake to start registering way later than I would have liked (after pressing the pedal about 10%). I was playing around with the minimum input but it didn't make a difference, am I just a big dumb dumb and have to actually lower the maximum range?
 
So in the new update we can adjust the pedal calibration.
Just set everything to 100% and my braking at the minute is awful, yet somehow I’m still setting the same times as before the update… Finding it a bit tricky on some corners especially the slow corners, but on the medium-fast corners I feel so much quicker.
I thought that calibration had been around for a while now. 🤷‍♀️
 
I thought that calibration had been around for a while now. 🤷‍♀️
Yes. This thread is almost a year old. ;)
 
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It's also great for people like me who use a modified double break pedal on the G29 so I can disable the clutch.

Like I've said before though - would be good to save them as pre-sets to switch between them (not that removing the double pedal is a matter of seconds jobs)

Hi Jono, i have the same pedal. How can you disabile the clutch at all? I tried to set the clutch dead zone to 90% and it's working. But i can't set It to 100% and so, when i break really hard (by mistake) i also Press the clutch. Do you have the same problem?
 
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Hi Jono, i have the same pedal. How can you disabile the clutch at all? I tried to set the clutch dead zone to 90% and it's working. But i can't set It to 100% and so, when i break really hard (by mistake) i also Press the clutch. Do you have the same problem?
I have an upgraded brake spring/rubber so I can't brake as hard as the standard equipment

 
I have an upgraded brake spring/rubber so I can't brake as hard as the standard equipment

My TLCMs are also modded. In the GT7 pedal calibration it only registers at 47% when I press it as hard as i would for full brake. My accelerator only registers 79% when fully pressed. Why are these inputs not registering as 100%? Anyone have any idea?
 
My TLCMs are also modded. In the GT7 pedal calibration it only registers at 47% when I press it as hard as i would for full brake. My accelerator only registers 79% when fully pressed. Why are these inputs not registering as 100%? Anyone have any idea?
If you're on the PS5, are you plugged into the right usb port on the front?
 
If you're on the PS5, are you plugged into the right usb port on the front?

Yeah, plugged into front USB. Do you know if the numbers have any bearing on in-game data? As in, although my inputs on the pedal calibration don't read as 100%, will they read as 100% when actually racing?
 
Yeah after running the new settings I’m finding its making a big difference. Adjusting the muscle memory on the brake pedal been the big challenge but I’m finding that I can trail braking some corners. Hopefully I with the new settings I can cut out another half a second.

Just wanted to highlight this post. I really like the G29 overall in Gran Turismo 7 except…

The break pedal. I know I’m not breaking news here, but for all the complaints about the G29 pedal (squishy feel, lack of load cell, etc) I don’t often see the actual impact in terms of racing and lap times described. The brake pedal, as is, makes trail braking incredibly difficult to do with any consistency. Getting the right amount of lift off the pedal as you turn in is very hard to feel. You have to memorize what amounts to a tiny amount of travel, rather than the feel of pressure resistance you typically use driving. I think I’m doing it the exact same as I did the prior corner, but get a very different result.

As this poster said, through some trial and error with the calibration found that, while it’s still not remotely comparable to true load cell pedals, and still difficult to nail consistently, bumping the brake calibration max to 95% significantly improves trail braking with that pedal set.

Having the pedal pressed down hard enough that you’re really pushing into the internal rubber stopper, somewhat replicates the feel of load cell pressure resistance as you begin to lift. When the max is set at the default 60%, you’re still at 100% braking force well past the point where you can really feel that rubber stop pushing back. Hope that makes some sense!

Trade off of course being that you now have to brake much harder for standard straight line stopping than before, so it probably isn’t a change to make unless you use trail braking.
 
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I like my G29 brake pedal much more since removing the OEM spring and rubber stopper, and replacing them both with just a stiffer spring. Still not as good as a load cell but much better than it was.
 
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