Pedal Deadzone Issues, only 97% throttle

  • Thread starter ApexVGear
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ApexVGear

ApexVGear

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I can't get full throttle in either GT5 or GT Academy.

I've been racing in other games/simulators with a Fanatec GT2 wheel and Logitech G27 pedals. I've cleaned and swapped the pots in the pedals, but even after doing so, I can never get full throttle unless I add some deadzone in the game. Forza 4 and other titles will let you set the lower and upper deadzones, but apparently there's not a way to do that in either of these GT titles. I've tried holding the pedals just short of "floored" while starting up the games, but that doesn't work.

We're probably talking about getting 97% power, but that makes a difference, especially when driving the Nissan Leaf in the first time-trials of GT Academy 2012.

If you know of a fix, other than buying new pots or pedals, please let me know. Otherwise, I'm out for GT Academy 2012.
 
I know the pedals aren't sending the "full" signal when they're "floored." I have to adjust the upper deadzone, which you can do in Forza 4 and other titles. Just bring it back to about 95-97% and the pedals work fine.

I get excellent times in the other games, but I can't even compete in Gran Turismo because of this problem.
 
:ill:
ApexVGear
I know the pedals aren't sending the "full" signal when they're I have to adjust the upper deadzone, which you can do in Forza 4 and other titles. Just bring it back to about 95-97% and the pedals work fine.

I get excellent times in the other games, but I can't even compete in Gran Turismo because of this problem.
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The only way to truly know if you're not getting 100% throttle is to compare it to a second set of pedals..or try mapping the throttle to a different pedal ie if you have Clutch Brake Throttle. try mapping it to a button and compare your Speed/ghost with a straight line speed track test... good luck:tup:

is there a restriction within the pedal housing? maybe the pedal is being limited some-were,

srsly I've spend $200 for mounting hardware and tools for this Academy I even took my G-25 apart because I thought it was broken (Not plugged in to power i'm an idiot!):ouch:
 
I can see I'm not getting full throttle in the accelerator/throttle bar (it leads red if you over-throttle until the engine "catches up"). If I use a controller, I can get the bar to fill to 100%. With the wheel and pedals, it only reaches about 97% and "jumps" up and down some.

With the controller, on easier courses with less turns, like the first Leaf trials (I HATE the controller) my times are better, often by 2-3 seconds. With the wheel and pedals, I could barely get a bronze. No problem getting golds with the controller, but I know I could post better times if using a wheel with full throttle.
 
ApexVGear
I can see I'm not getting full throttle in the accelerator/throttle bar (it leads red if you over-throttle until the engine "catches up"). If I use a controller, I can get the bar to fill to 100%. With the wheel and pedals, it only reaches about 97% and "jumps" up and down some.

With the controller, on easier courses with less turns, like the first Leaf trials (I HATE the controller) my times are better, often by 2-3 seconds. With the wheel and pedals, I could barely get a bronze. No problem getting golds with the controller, but I know I could post better times if using a wheel with full throttle.
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Yeah sounds like a deadzone/restriction issue, Pics? description? what pedals are you using? version number? Steering/Pedal Manufacture:)?
 
Fanatec GT2 with the Logitech G27 pedals. As I posted above, I've cleaned and swapped the potentiometers in the pedals. Other games also show the pedals aren't sending a "full-throttle" signal when floored, but those games let you add deadzone to compensate.
 
ApexVGear
Fanatec GT2 with the Logitech G27 pedals. As I posted above, I've cleaned and swapped the potentiometers in the pedals. Other games also show the pedals aren't sending a "full-throttle" signal when floored, but those games let you add deadzone to compensate.
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The problem is GT5 sees a problem with your wheel/pedal setup and causing errors. Most games will ignore them but GT5 is pretty strict against modded wheels (which in your case its modded). Even if you add another fan to the wheel with more amps, it will cause problems as the PCU wasn't programmed for the change.

Edit, I don't think Logitech will send you a new set due to tampering of the unit.
 
Bluntified
The problem is GT5 sees a problem with your wheel/pedal setup and causing errors. Most games will ignore them but GT5 is pretty strict against modded wheels (which in your case its modded). Even if you add another fan to the wheel with more amps, it will cause problems as the PCU wasn't programmed for the change.

Edit, I don't think Logitech will send you a new set due to tampering of the unit.
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This is Logitech we're talking about ;)

They should replace it providing you take them through the steps you took to try to fix it. The fact it was broken before the fix shows that it was likely a manufacturing fault.

The problem is proving that fact. But then again, it is Logitech, the same company who replaced somebodies DFP for a brand new DFGT after the warranty had expired because it had worn out from over-use. Their customer service is usually second to none, so it's worth giving them a call. Keep us posted on what they say :)

EDIT: Do you still have a Logitech wheel? Have you tried connecting that up to see if the problem is in the connection to the Fanatec wheel? Just so you eliminate the wheel as the source of the problem.
 
The G27 pedals aren't "tampered" with. They connect to the Fanatec GT2 wheel via a simple adapter cable. I can easily reconnect them to the G27 wheel, and they exhibit the same problems.

I actually carefully disassembled the pedals and lubricated the potentiometers with electrical-grade lubricant. It cleared up the problems for a few weeks, but then they started again. I bought some new potentiometers that were close, but I couldn't get them to mount and align properly to send the correct signals. There's no "tamper" sticker to seal the pedals to void the warranty, and I didn't drill or cut anything. If I had the correct set of pots, I could fix it myself.

I have sent a message to Logitech via their Web site. I described my problem, that I know it's the potentiometers, and "chastised" them some for using cheap components that can pick up debris and corrode in a matter of months--and cause the pedals to fail in a $300 wheel set. Not what I expected from Logitech. I also sent them a link to one of my videos where the wheel is used in a demo.

http://youtu.be/w6dbXpP6mj8

Thanks to everyone that has contributed.
 
This happens to me too. Easy fix. The potentiometers rock slightly in their mount. Move them back and put a piece of duct tape over them to hold em in place.
 
Sounds like you have it narrowed down to the pots since you cleaned them and it worked properly for a bit. You can either swap the clutch pot over to the gas one or buy on one ebay.

It is strange that you have this issue though when the wheel will do an auto cal for each pedal the first time you press each of them after power up. Makes me wonder if the pot is moving around in its mount as the previous guy mentioned. This auto cal is there because pots have huge variance in the resistance they read at a given position from pot to pot.
 
Yes they have a bit of slack, there just sitting in there, not screwed down.

Also if you search there was a thread on how to completely take apart the pot and clean it completely. If you see them apart you could see how a small bit of dust/hair could interfere with the contacts.
 
I disassembled the pedals again yesterday, cleaned and lubricated them (electrical grade lubricant) and checked the "cog" position on the accelerator. I did not take the pots apart, but rather used compressed air in the opening (you can see the tracks and contacts) and rotated the shaft back and forth rapidly several times. They are working again for now, but I expect them to act up again in a few months.

The pots are actually mounted with a lock washer and nut on the shaft. You can't see this until you completely disassemble the pedals, removing the arm, cog, and spring. The body of the pot has a pin that lines up to a hole in the base of the pedal assembly. If your pots are loose, then disassemble the pedals, remove the cog and spring, and use a wrench to lock them down. Zip ties and tape aren't necessary, and those options can wear out. Just make sure you re-align the cogs properly--it's easy to miss a tooth or two.

I'm now in my third exchange with Logitech's support/customer service department. Apparently my G27 is just a few months out of its' 1-year warranty. I explained to them that my previous Logitech wheel lasted over 12 years until the feedback motor burned up (a friend borrowed it for some online synchronized drifting recently). However, those pedals (brake and accelerator only) are still being used by my friend with another wheel.

We actually opened the old pedals to see what condition they were in and compare parts. The pots in the old pedals are all metal, and more substantial than the smaller plastic-shaft pots in the G27 pedals. Logitech obviously cut corners on my pedal unit, and that's unacceptable for something that is part of a $300 investment. I expect at least four or five years out of something like this.

I've basically told the Logitech rep that either I need a new pedal unit, or send me information about purchasing replacement potentiometers. I made it clear that he is not to send me a response that Logitech can't do ANYTHING about this. If he can't handle it, he is to forward it to another department that will.

Please post any links you've seen to third-party pot suppliers, or links for disassembling and repairing the pots, just in case Logitech doesn't resolve this (or rather if I decide it's not worth my time to MAKE them resolve it).

So far, I've only found one third-party source for buying "exact-match" pots, I think it's in the UK (I'm in the U.S.), and they are reporting they're out of stock. I found an eBay listing via another forum link, but they're sold out, showing "10 units available of 25 sold."
 
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Apex nice Racing Rig very Clean and easy to store! Do Want!

Suggestion, change the Pot from your clutch to your Throttle, I know I have used my clutch like 10 percent of the life of my G25 (since 2006).

order a new G27 from somewhere...switch out components then send back say" doesnt work for my Wii" as explanation.
 
GTP_SniperWolph
Apex nice Racing Rig very Clean and easy to store! Do Want!

Suggestion, change the Pot from your clutch to your Throttle, I know I have used my clutch like 10 percent of the life of my G25 (since 2006).

order a new G27 from somewhere...switch out components then send back say" doesnt work for my Wii" as explanation.
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Did that before. Works especially well with Amazon :lol:
 
I already swapped the clutch and accelerator pots--the last time I worked on the pedals about six months ago. I was getting severe "spikes" in the lower end of the accelerator travel, often causing the cars to suddenly get bursts of power around slow turns--and the car would suddenly go off the turn.
 
ApexVGear
I already swapped the clutch and accelerator pots--the last time I worked on the pedals about six months ago. I was getting severe "spikes" in the lower end of the accelerator travel, often causing the cars to suddenly get bursts of power around slow turns--and the car would suddenly go off the turn.
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Time for New pedal's club sports? My G25's have been great for the last 6 years. You must have some other contamination going on Dust? Dirt? Grim? act's of god?
 
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I'm wondering if there's different "batches" of G25 and G27 pedals, some with better pots? They may have started to "cut corners" later in production.

Unfortunately, the Fanatec Clubsport pedals are not available for sale on the U.S. part of the Fanatec site. I've heard there may be a new model coming--not sure.

I know the "more economical" Fanatec pedals have the same type of potentiometers, including the regular CSR. I'm still not sure if the CSR Elite pedals have potentiometers or magnetic sensors (like in the Clubsport pedals).
 

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