Post Your E-brake To Work With GT5/ G27 Here. Need Inspiration!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Powellx235
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powellx234
Hi there.

I'm a big GT5 drifter currently using WheelStand Pro To hold my G27 and shifter, and a homemade ebrake hooked to the DS3 analogue. But I was thinking of building a full on rig with seat etc. and want to do it properly.

I was thinking, if you put a car wheel valve where the lines go out, so you can adjust the pressure in the cylinder, and put a switch somewhere on the handbrake, would it work well?

If you dont think so, please give ideas and a few photo's if possible ;)

I'm just going to go with a fairly simple cockpit made from wood, as theirs lots of it lying around so it won't cost anything.

Is there anything else I could do to improve the rig?

Thanks for the help if I get any.
 
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It's not going to matter a jot what you do for a HAND Brake most Games and Sims only allow a digital or On/Off input with variance in percentage in Game.

I long for the ability to have a TRUE variable input for the Handbrake, although I have been able to in testing achieve a reasonably workable solution with a 555 timer IC and starting at 100 Hz pulses reducing to about 3 hz the handbrake works rather well.

This might seem a bit of overkill but in reality you need a variable handbrake as different road surfaces will lock up at very different speeds and grip levels.
 
Thanks for the reply!

I know what You mean, but that was my first idea. The reason being I want lots of resistance, and you could change the pressure with that idea.

Edit: If I'm not gonna do that, what would be the best way to build 1 from scratch? Currently I have a 5-inch Iron pipe (invincable :P) and a 1/2 inch bolt trough it and 2 brackets, and hooked to the DS3 analogue with thread. Then a 3mm thick spring going over the DS3 and hooked too a screw. Its not genious but If I'm building a rig I want to do it right first time.
 
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There are two different types of hydraulic handbrake setups for cars.

1) A true hydraulic handbrake system uses an independent master cylinder to apply force to the rear brakes. The more elaborate systems obviously support multiple calipers or independent pot actuation (Alcon has these calipers). Some now are even supporting multiple levers for left/right actuation.

2) Staged hydraulic handbrake. No independent master cylinder, basically Teed into the rear brake system. Most of the drift guys run this as its cheaper and rather effective for that particular venue of motorsport. I've had KSport staged hydraulic hand brakes in 2 of my cars, its much nicer than a cable.

Both require a hydraulic fluid inlet and outlet to provide resisitance in the hand brake as well as obviously actuating the brakes. Without a master cylinder or some type of hydraulic fluid "booster" system, hydro Ebrake isn't going to happen. There will be no progressive feel to the hand brake. Plus you would still need to rig a microswitch on the handbrake to the "O" button of your wheel, shifter, or DS3.

Much easier and better off using a junkyard eBrake with springs attached for tension. Better than having leaking brake fluid all over when your DIY hydraulic setup explodes.
 
Could you not just let the fluid out and fill it with air, and where the lines go out, put an air valve in?
 
Powellx235
Could you not just let the fluid out and fill it with air, and where the lines go out, put an air valve in?

No.

This is why you also cannot use water. Water contains air, and other fluids that contain air can be compressed. Hydraulic fluids for clutches and brakes cannot be compressed which is why you get that firm feel. Bleed your clutch and bleed your brakes or your ish is mushy...

Large trucks use air brakes, but this type of system requires an air compressor. The compressed air in these systems is also used to cool the brakes. Another practical reason to use air brakes as you're slowing down several tons of mass, crap gets hot. Not practical for a sim rig due to noise...

If you're really looking for a firm Ebrake that looks trick you can purchase an engine torque damper for pretty much any car. Use this as you're hydraulic resisitance to your Ebrake. They are however designed to reduce engine movement under torque so it would probably be too firm as its a completely enclosed hydraulic shock.

If games supported the eBrake as more than an analog switch (on/off) and as an axis instead. You would be able to use something like a load cell to simulate the hand brake and have the game register light and heavy Ebrake rips. As well as get more progressive feel to the Ebrake...
 
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Powellx235
That makes sence.

So what would be the best idea rather than a normal e-brake?

You can make a lever with anything really. Regular Ebrake is easy as some have a microswitch already attached for eBrake lights on the dash.

I've got an old cheap Chinese engine torque damper that's seen a lot of miles. I'm hoping its loose enough to use as hydraulic resistance to a hand brake.

I'm slowly working in it inbetween work and life. If it works decent I'll let you know.
 
I don't feel that the ON/OFF switch style e-brakes are worth a damn. there is a definite need for modulation. I too have a custom built handbrake rigged to a ds3 controller to have modulation in the handbrake.
 
Atlered the thread a bit. Now looking for inspiration/photo's aswell as what you think about my idea. (see OP for my idea)
 

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