PP-Effieciency of different parts

[KAlex122]

Is there a general rule, that maybe fixed, non removable parts like motor balancing are a bit more performant than for example exhaust and air intakes regarding to PP-level?

Are there in general parts that are "better" for acceleration that others, like for example flywheels or the special tuning parts we can buy since last year?

I am mostly talking about speed/acceleration. Not about the PP of brakes, transmission and such.

Extra question: Does a racing transmission offer better acceleration than the manual one ? Obviously it is possible to fine tune the racing TM but other than that, if you only set the same max speed on both and don't fine tune, is there a difference for an AT driver? Because it "costs" a lot of PP extra.

Thank you!

 

[Meythia]

I was wondering the same and at least try to go with an excel sheet that compares engine power <> pp
to see how to fit the highest power into a certian pp limit.
The result was there are huge differences of pp gain vs power gain and it is not always the same part that provides the most efficient gain as a first to install, and not necessarily does it need to be the "higher" class sport, like sport muffler vs racing muffler.
Also it can be much better to install a certain part and then reduce power afterwards.

Racing transmission will always be faster than custom manual transmission as there is no drop in accelaration, the question is more of if the PP is worth it compared to the default transmission or custom manual transmission.

 

[KAlex122]

Also it can be much better to install a certain part and then reduce power afterwards.

Is that more or less a general rule?

Racing transmission will always be faster than custom manual transmission as there is no drop in accelaration, the question is more of if the PP is worth it compared to the default transmission or custom manual transmission.

Thank you, i didn't know that!

 

[Meythia]

Is that more or less a general rule?

I guess it is a rule because it is a flaw in the PP calculation.
However PP is being simulated, there are a few clicks left or right that will cause strange jumps up or down sometimes, and this also can happen when adjusting ECU or powerlimiter downwards.
So if possible, bring more power than the PP limit allows and then click it downwards - maybe you are lucky and find any such a spot.
Maybe you dont, and then you can compare acceleration values to at least bring the best of the car with a visible and easier to understand measurement.

 

[KAlex122]

1.) Quirky PP-jumps aside, is lowering ECU always better than lowering powerlimiter (for AT-users)? I see that on praianos tunes all the time.

2.) Does the same apply to weight? So lowering weight and than adding some again (with the same weight distribution).

(Plus: i go towards 50:50 weight distribution for FR cars, is that generally a good basis for 4WD too or is it more towards the front?)

 

[Meythia]

1. No, depends on the engine, some engines (according to the acceleration table and PP) are better when reducing by ECU, others are better when reducing by power limiter. Some even want to mix it.
1a. Above 600PP (Audi Pikes Peak)

1b. power limiter

1c. ECU

1d. even split

1e. optimized

DP100 is the other way round:

2. Yes, there are also some odd weight points and distribution.

Bonus1: you can try to strike a balance between weight and power to find the best acceleration values (I really do trust these as the only thing besides feeling of handling).
Not always is more power more weight better than less power less weight at the same PP.

Bonus2: generally I do weight distribution to combat tyrewear, lighter of course is better, but if I have to add weight to lower PP then I try to create a balance that will even out tyre wear. This also depends on the car and of course if you use different compounds front and back.

 

[KAlex122]

Thanks! Last question: Do you rely on the professional suspension alone or stay with the standard or only a "sports" one a lot (in the 600PP-range).

 

[Meythia]

I seriously dont like the standard suspension on most cars, but on some the car actually handles well enough to not warrant the cost of PP - which depends on driving style and preference.
More confidence in hitting the apex can be faster than more power, but if you dont feel any discomfort with the standard suspension (other than the soft up and down movement) there is no need to go to the customizeable suspensions.

 

[Meythia]

I guess it is a rule because it is a flaw in the PP calculation.

Doubling down on this whith something that I didnt notice before.
Strange things occured while I was deciding on which braking system I want to use:

So, installing brakes on this car magically enhances acceleration and blows PP up more than necessary ...
I thought at least the acceleration values would have been somewhat accurate without considering the transmission setup.

 

[gkgamer]

I mostly tune for credit grinding WTC600 Tokyo and WTC700 Le Mans but I usually try to keep as many stock parts as possible to maximize the usable power.
When I can cope with it, I keep the normal suspension and brakes, use the manual custom transmission if I can't use the normal one.
I install power parts beginning with the ones that give low and mid RPM performance gains as in the 2 races I tune for, short-shifting and fuel conservation are key.
I try to be the closest I can to the PP limit with a combination of parts and aero tuning then slap sports or racing brake tabs to get closer if needed.
This is the basic ruleset I follow but I keep an eye open for all the unconsistencies that sometimes appear with random parts on random cars.
I can share my tunes if anyone's interested but I don't think they're good enough to be presented in a "garage" format.

Edit: ah I forgot about the wide body mod and also the very important wheels. I keep the stock wheels when aftermarket ones give a substantial PP bump. I thought this happened more on older cars at first but now I don't think there really is a pattern, some older cars gain from aftermarket rims, some don't; same for the more recent cars. As for the wide body, I don't know, I seem to use it most of the time but I can't really say it's a performance driven decision.