Project Cars 3 FFB Settings Explained and Settings Shared

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Scaff

Scaff

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While PC3 is much better out of the box, it still needs some tweaking, and the settings screen doesn't explain the values at all.

I've put a video together explaining them and sharing my T300 settings. Feel free to post your own settings so the community can benefit from them.



@Wolfe - here you go.
 
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I am using a Fanatec CSR Elite and having some issues with a little slop at the center of the wheel, haven't managed to get rid of it yet.
Any ideas? Deadzone is at 0 in game and in wheel setting but still feels like about 1/2 inch or more dead zone at center.
 
Right out of the gate the wheel seems heavy driving the Corvette and Lancer compared to what’s graphically displayed on screen, but so far so good. T300 here.

I agree with @Scaff as usual 👍
 
HBR-Roadhog
I am using a Fanatec CSR Elite and having some issues with a little slop at the center of the wheel, haven't managed to get rid of it yet.
Any ideas? Deadzone is at 0 in game and in wheel setting but still feels like about 1/2 inch or more dead zone at center.
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Odd, no issue with a deadzone on the T300, sounds like a bug that needs patching.
 
Like @HBR-Roadhog, I have a CSL Elite PS4 Wheel and I can't get a good feel for it.

As a starting point, I'm using the same "on wheel" settings as I do for Project Cars 2. Haven't touched anything "in game" yet.
 
Thanks for the explanation and recommendations for what approximate settings to start from, @Scaff. 👍 That all makes sense.

On the pedal sensitivity options, if anyone is still a bit lost on how it specifically affects the sensitivity of the pedals, it works like this graph I drew to illustrate steering sensitivity with an analog stick in PCARS1 and PCARS2. The principle is the same. Sensitivities lower or higher than 50 create a curve of how much throttle/brake/clutch you're getting according to your input:

pcars2 ss.png
 
I've been playing around with it a bit this morning. I have tried various settings on the wheel with no luck. I thought maybe the spring setting on the wheel might at least give me an artificial center but no better. Tried setting of off, 0 and both + and - spring settings, still sloppy and unacceptable steering when trying to go straight. Tried different sensitivity settings on wheel off, 900, 600, 480 no or very little effect still sloppy at all of those settings. I even tried adding some dead zone in game but of course that made it much worse. I thought maybe I could open the settings file outside the game and force a - setting into the deadzone but of course they are no longer using the easy to modify txt files for settings and instead they are binary and can't be read in a text editor.

btw my brother is using a TX 458 wheel and having similar issues.
 
I cannot feel any kerbs through the wheel... Haven’t played around too much with the settings yet, but I would think there should be some kerb effects felt with the default FFB settings?

Using a Fanatec DD1 on PC.
Anyone else with a DD1/2 who can share their experiences?
 
The best feeling settings I've found so far (T300, default driver settings):
Strength 75
Tone 25
Vibration 75

Haven't tried many cars though
 
torsteinvh
I cannot feel any kerbs through the wheel... Haven’t played around too much with the settings yet, but I would think there should be some kerb effects felt with the default FFB settings?

Using a Fanatec DD1 on PC.
Anyone else with a DD1/2 who can share their experiences?
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Kerbs are light but there. If you're using DD1 with F1 wheel setting, try using CSW 2.5 setting, base can be kept on PC though, still works.
 
Top tip: deliberately calibrating the wheel "wrong" can drastically improves steering response.
My T300 is set to 900 degrees in the driver control panel, and I've calibrated it to ~630 degrees in-game.
In case it matters, I turned the wheel fully on the first pass, then stopped shy of 90 degrees on the second pass (when the number is around 630)

(Edit: 540 degrees made the wheel too slow and vague around center, I'm now at 630)

My FFB settings also got even more drastic to compensate for the lower wheel sensitivity:
Strength 100
Tone 0
Vibration 100

Seems to work fairly well with Road E/D - might wanna reduce the strength for downforce cars (?).
It's still very vague and a bit "wobbly" around center, but much more detailed than before.

I found that raising the tone doesn't do much at all in corners, oversteer "kick" seems to be more pronounced with low/0 tone.
 
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Ske
Top tip: deliberately calibrating the wheel "wrong" can drastically improves steering response.
My T300 is set to 900 degrees in the driver control panel, and I've calibrated it to ~630 degrees in-game.
In case it matters, I turned the wheel fully on the first pass, then stopped shy of 90 degrees on the second pass (when the number is around 630)

(Edit: 540 degrees made the wheel too slow and vague around center, I'm now at 630)

My FFB settings also got even more drastic to compensate for the lower wheel sensitivity:
Strength 100
Tone 0
Vibration 100

Seems to work fairly well with Road E/D - might wanna reduce the strength for downforce cars (?).
It's still very vague and a bit "wobbly" around center, but much more detailed than before.

I found that raising the tone doesn't do much at all in corners, oversteer "kick" seems to be more pronounced with low/0 tone.
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It's a good trick. That's what I do too. Thankfully you can calibrate in the middle of a race too so that say on road cars where the steering is too loose (vintage formula cars too as well as others), you can add in some fake rotation, but when not needed on other cars, pause and have at it again.
You can tell they were making the cars for driving on controllers when there's that much rotation going on.
 
GTC class seems to work best at 100/20/80, calibrated to ~700 degrees.
I can actually feel some effects of turning up the tone in those cars, as suspected.
Road cars are also pretty driveable at those settings, especially with tyre pressures all the way down.
 
My settings on PC with a T300 wheel are 75% strength in Thrustmaster Control Panel (900 degree) with 98% strength in-game, 60 vibration and 50 tone. 900 degree rotation calibrated in-game. Everything else default. Feels perfect.
 
I suppose it's worth sharing my FFB settings for my Logitech G25 on PS4, now that I have followed through in my plan of finally getting myself a setup. I spent this evening making adjustments in this and PCARS2, using my go-to Project CARS benchmark of drifting the GT86 around Mojave Sidewinder.

Strength = 77
Tone = 56
Vibration = 28

I hope they stick, because tinkering with FFB settings is something I never, ever missed in shelving my wheel. :P Adjusting analog stick steering settings is more objective and usually clearer to figure out.
 
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Hello I just got Project Cars 3 Wednesday January 13th 2021. I'm enjoying it I still enjoy PC2 physics way more but 3 is still a fun game in it's own way.
I basically used my PC2 settings and applied them to PC3 where I thought they would go because some of the setting have gone or have different names. Wheel: I'm on PS5 Console with CLS Elite PS4 with LoadCell. Just like to add that when I used the games original settings it felt very light and paper weight, the cars always wanted to drift unnaturally. Now with these settings I'm enjoying it more, it feels less drifty and feels tighter and heaver. There's not much more you can do with this game as it's really arcadey compared to its previous titles. I hope these can help in any way.

These are my wheel settings on the actual wheel: Only applies if you own a CSL Elite otherwise no need to worry.

SEN: AUTO
FF: 100
SHO: 100
ABS: OFF
DRI: OFF
FOR: 100
SPR: 100
DPR: 100
BRF: 10
FEI: 50

Now for the game settings.

PROJECT CARS 3
SETTINGS:

Steering Dead Zone: 0

Throttle Dead Zone: 0

Throttle Sensitivity: 50

Brake Dead Zone: 0

Brake Sensitivity: 35

Clutch Dead Zone: 0

Clutch Sensitivity: 35

Strength: 67 (I pretend this is Gain from PC2)

Tone: 35

Vibration: 43 (I pretend this is FX from PC2)

Menu Spring Strength: 40
I also have Vibration set to 50 in the game menu under Controls

Also these are my PC2 settings if anyone wants them to. Using CSL Elite PS4 with Load Cell on PS5 Console.

Project Cars 2
SETTINGS:

Steering Dead Zone: 0

Throttle Dead Zone: 0

Throttle Sensitivity: 50

Brake Dead Zone: 0

Brake Sensitivity: 35

Clutch Dead Zone: 0

Clutch Sensitivity: 35

Speed Sensitivity: 0

Controller Damping: 100

Flavour: Immersive

Gain: 67

Volume: 37

Tone: 35

FX: 43

Menu Spring Strength: 0.25
 
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I might as well add my thoughts on the FFB now I've had PC3 a few weeks. I go along with what @Scaff says in in his video up top. Particularly about the wheel shouldn't be difficult to turn, but each to their own likes in that really.

Now I'm coming from PC2 so if you're not you may not know some of the terms.

I think PC3 uses the informative flavour from PC2 as standard, there's no other option. Or a slight variation of informative at least. Therefore there is no gain setting since this will be at 100% and then, depending on your settings with the sliders, the auto adjustment will smooth the output to the wheel to prevent clipping of FFB signals. Probably, although it doesn't mention it*, I'm assuming it takes a few laps to adjust to setting changes as previously.

*It doesn't mention anything! I know it's supposed to be more jump in and play than previously but a little explanation to the settings would be appreciated, especially by newcomers.

The strength setting is the same as volume in PC2 - the resistance to turning and centring force of the wheel.
The tone is the same as previously - Road bumps and suspension feel to tyre and surface feel.
The vibration replaces the FX slider - Artificial kerb and other effects to add "excitement".
The menu spring strength is the same - How fast the wheel rotates to centre from an offset position when you return to a menu screen.


And my current G29 settings for reference.
Strength 35 - Easy to turn and catch slides and also allows other effects to shine.
Tone 70 - The increased tyre feel can add a little extra weight on certain cars and again makes slides easier to feel.
Vibration 10 - Too much makes my gears rattle. That's the gears in my wheel not in me. :)

And brake sensitivity turned down (still experimenting). The G29 has a limited travel range in its brake input (it's calibrated to the rubber bung they fitted) so I find lowered brake sensitivity helps. PC3's cars can be a bit snatchy anyway.
 
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Would anyone advise wheel/ Feedback settings for my GT-T? Seems unable to turn as quickly as desired. Thanks in advance. FYI: on PS4 PRO
 
GOESREALFAST
Seems unable to turn as quickly as desired.
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You could try rotating your wheel less in the 2nd calibration screen - the one where it says hold at 90° (900 on screen for me). Have a go at around 640°, that seems popular. Or vary it to suit your requirements.
 

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