Puzzled by something... can the experts here answer this..?

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I call this puzzle; the mysterious de-tuned C3...

Scene 1: Licensing test, one lap, following the pace car at Laguna Seca (a track I love, and know like the back of my hand). Using the citroen C3, it chugged it's merry way around, and at NO point did I have to slow down to avoid crashing/passing the skyline pace car.

It took SO long to get around, that I got curious, and did a little test. So...

Scene 2: I bought a C3 (new, stock) and took it onto Laguna for a lap or two. I did it from standing starts etc, and in every case, it ran FASTER laps than the licenses car. Figuring it might be the ASM/TC/etc options I turned them off, and tried again... same thing, except now my C3 went even faster! (1.5 seconds, to be exact)

Okay... it is just me who's noticed this? Did I somehow do something different with my stock C3, that I didn't/couldn't do in the License? And if it's not me... is there some kind of mysterious car de-tuning going on in the licensing?!

I'd love someone out there to try and explain what happened... and I also wonder if the same thing would happen on OTHER 1 lap license tracks, with different cars...

Very strange though, all the same!
 
check what tyres the license C3 used. you can see it from the replay i believe. maybe the license C3 has N2 Comfort tyres but your stock C3 has S2 sports. just maybe. that would make a difference.

ballast also comes into mind, but i don't think there's any way to find out what ballast weight the license car has.

and yes. turning assist off will usually improve your lap times, depending how good a driver you are.
 
I did wonder about the tyres, but then, why the heck would a stock C3 in the licensing be using non-stock tyres? Seems a little odd... still, maybe someone will check and confirm that...
 
^they mess with the tyres and tunings and stuff
 
chinko
^they mess with the tyres and tunings and stuff
Click to expand...

.....And the license C3 must therefore be de-tuned!!! :dunce: :lol:
 
Maybe the license C3 is a second hand one without oil change and thus less horsepower!?
 
Did you make sure your standing start was from the same place the license test car started from?
 
The problem is your tyres:

When you go buy a car you get S2 tires. In the license tests all 'normal' street cars are equiped with normal street comfort tyres.

btw I find it very strange that your laptimes improve after turning driving aids back on. I tested this on the ring with an audi is4, traction settings to 10 (which is all power on the rear wheels I believe).
After running a lap or two I wrote down an average laptime of 8'11.xxx.
I drove another couple of laps without the driving aids (except for tcs, I left it default) and the average laptime went down to 8'03.xxx
To exclude ecperience on the Ring (which I have a lot by now) I turned the aids on again and whatayaknow: times went back up to around 8'11.xxx

Didn't test it on other tracks, but my conclusion was (what I thought allready) that the driving aids were slowing me down!
 
SjefGielen
The problem is your tyres:

When you go buy a car you get S2 tires. In the license tests all 'normal' street cars are equiped with normal street comfort tyres.

btw I find it very strange that your laptimes improve after turning driving aids back on. I tested this on the ring with an audi is4, traction settings to 10 (which is all power on the rear wheels I believe).
After running a lap or two I wrote down an average laptime of 8'11.xxx.
I drove another couple of laps without the driving aids (except for tcs, I left it default) and the average laptime went down to 8'03.xxx
To exclude ecperience on the Ring (which I have a lot by now) I turned the aids on again and whatayaknow: times went back up to around 8'11.xxx

Didn't test it on other tracks, but my conclusion was (what I thought allready) that the driving aids were slowing me down!
Click to expand...

Driving aids always slow you down unless you suck at driving or your car constantly spins the tires :)
 
Read it again, his times went DOWN when he turned the aids OFF :)
 
SjefGielen
traction settings to 10 (which is all power on the rear wheels I believe).
Click to expand...

I don't think that's right. A VCD will allow you to control power distibution to the front & rear wheels, but even then its usually a maximum of 90% to the rear. (When set at 10 front distribution)

Setting TCS to 10 just makes the traction control hypersensitive to any kind of wheelspin or traction loss, and when it senses it, it cuts you engine power until traction is restored, and thus decreases your acceleration rate. This is why you'll see a massive difference in laptimes with high TCS settings.
Try the test with TCS at 1. You'll find it only marginally affects your laptimes, but if your theory about power distribution was right, then TCS 0 = Front wheel drive and TCS 10 = Rear wheel drive.
That's theoretically possible on a 4WD vehicle, but what would happen on an FF car with TCS at 10? No power to front wheels, and all power to rear wheels......but wait, there's no driveshaft to the rear wheels! You'd go nowhere!!!!
Same with RWD vehicle and TCS 0, it'd be trying to power front wheels with no driveshaft!
Personally I only ever race with TCS 1-3 on high powered MR or FR cars, like Toyota 7 or Nissan R89C. On high powered FF cars, use a small value to stop severe wheelspin if you're in a race with a standing start, after that you really shouldn't need it.
Most of the time all the driving aids are turned off when I'm racing!
Hope this explanation helped.
:cheers:
 
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