Question for fanatec CSL get sport players

Discussion in 'Gran Turismo Sport' started by AussieMitch, Nov 19, 2019.

  1. AussieMitch

    AussieMitch

    Messages:
    70
    I'm currently looking for the best CSL elite settings for gt sport, ATM I copied everything from the fanatec recommended settings page for the game... However I'm curious do you guys use the AUT setting for the steering sensitivity for gt sport? It's what the fanatec page recommended. However it's quite twitchy compared to assetto Corsa so I tried 1080 degrees instead and it seems better, my drift setting is -03 btw.

    Now going from the Cayman Clubsport to the 458 GT3, 1080 feels horrible ;) back to AUT... How do these settings work exactly?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 19, 2019
  2. Keith2324

    Keith2324

    Messages:
    419
    Location:
    Barbados
    Here's what I do. Since there are 5 profile settings on the wheel I use them. Now keep in mind I don't play any other sims at the moment so I don't need to worry about getting wheel rotations mixed up. I use Setting 1 for Gr1 and GRX cars, Setting 2 for Gr2 and so forth. Once you pick your car(s) for the upcoming season in the off-season, I try to dial in those settings especially for Gr3 and Gr4. The only that will change these settings is if PD does a BOP change or something feels different after one of the updates/maintenance patches. Also between the different races, you can do some tweaking to these settings since a track like Circuit de la Sarthe will drive differently than Catalunya.
     
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  3. MordFustang88

    MordFustang88

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Croatia
    I keep everything at default cause it suits me. Keep sensitivity on auto cause IMO its very well implemented.
    As for the brakes, depends if you have a loadcell or not, because i keep my brake force at 80, so if i want 100% braking in game, i really need to step on the brake. 100% is not always needed so this is the setting im comfortable with.

    EDIT: Assetto Corsa on PS4 doesnt have any feedback on the CSL Elite so i dont see why would you play it...or am I missing something?
     
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  4. Groundfish

    Groundfish Premium

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    1,402
    Wow 80 Brf. I was running 60 and recently went down to 50 just because it’s more relaxing.
    I use AUT. It works great. 5-1 in game. I seem to think little has changed besides DRI on mine from default. Can’t recall I just know set to 4 for gt sport.
    I think aut is extremely well done like the other fella mentioned.
     
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  5. AussieMitch

    AussieMitch

    Messages:
    70
    I didn't know that about Assetto Corsa... I have a load cell, I have mine set on 40 brf, might try and up it a bit however... I got used to the AUT sensitivity last night and found it worked well once I adjusted.
     
  6. AussieMitch

    AussieMitch

    Messages:
    70
    What do you do with the setting that effects the understeer rattle? I had to put it down to 10 to tame it...
     
  7. Groundfish

    Groundfish Premium

    Messages:
    1,402
    I just looked at mine after that last race.
    Mine is at fei40 dri off.
    The rest is just brf to taste and 100 pretty sure.
    I find it works great on mine. I haven’t run the f1500t for quite a while though, but I run everything there in game...
    When I power mine up it says 335 I thinks that’s firmware version or some such.
    AC worked fine for me til I nixed it from the console.
     
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  8. AussieMitch

    AussieMitch

    Messages:
    70
    Yeah I might fiddle with that fei setting later, it just scared the heck out of me when it would rattle the base quite harshly turned up... Was worries it was bad for the long term health of the wheel. I guess I just don't realise how powerful this thing is compared to my old thrustmaster
     
  9. Groundfish

    Groundfish Premium

    Messages:
    1,402
    I just ran a test for you at Interlagos, blatantly massively too much steering angle and throttle inducing wheel hop in my gr 3 mustang and there was no crazy rattle, I could feel the wheel hop, but no noise, as I would expect. I do seem to remember though turning FEI to 20 running the f1500t at Brands for several hours. Seemed like I had a bit of noise from the wheel when I messed up then.
    The only diff I could imagine between mine and yours would be firmware. Mine is how it was given to me, I never messed with it but it says 335 at startup. Weight transfer, curbs etc all feel excellent in GTS. That’s all I can offer you.
     
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  10. AussieMitch

    AussieMitch

    Messages:
    70
    Cheers mate! Ill check the firmware... Haven't updated since the day I got the wheel. The force feedback in the game though with the CSL elite in general though is great... Very happy with it now I've gotten most settings optimal. Come to think of it, it could also just be me freaking out over the stronger feedback that I'm still getting used to with this wheel... It's not a rattling sound coming from the wheel, just a strong vibration with heavy understeer that only makes a sound when the base vibrates against my rig... Not the base itself rattling I don't think.
     
  11. Knukel

    Knukel

    Messages:
    481
    Literally?
    I get rather weak FFB even with 75% in-game strength, but forces are still there.

    One thing that might be worth testing is to adjust your wheel via Logitech G29 tab... Instead of "Preset 1, 2" in FFB settings. Need to recheck.
     
  12. MordFustang88

    MordFustang88

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Croatia
    Yes. Well, i like my experience to be as accurate as possible. Having BRF at 80, also lets me drive non ABS cars in Project Cars 2, by not locking up the wheels so easily, making it easier to brake. Its a fact that you dont need 100% braking, and thats what GTS “ABS system” is trying to recreate as well. 100% locks you wheels in most cases and you dont need it.
    I try to be and drive fast while retaining the authenticity of real life driving. And its also easier to trail brake into corners, atleast for me.
    In game i use 5-5 and everything else default expect the BRF

    edit: and my loadcell brake is stiff. Not too stiff but stiff enough. When you get into a rhythm, you’ll apreciate it more to the soft brake.
     
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  13. Groundfish

    Groundfish Premium

    Messages:
    1,402

    Sorry, I was not questioning your sim cred.
    It is absolutely better in terms of more real and also gives. A bigger force span so gives finer resolution for small inputs.
    I was like wow, he’s serious not like wow somethings wrong. My apologies if that post came over poorly.
     
  14. MordFustang88

    MordFustang88

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Croatia
    Sorry if it came up like i was angry or something, i was not. I just tried to explain myself so others could try it :D
     
  15. fastone371

    fastone371

    Messages:
    1,876
    Location:
    United States
    I have a Fanatec LC brake and I almost always change BRF from car to car. I prefer to have the same brake feel in every car I drive, if the brakes lock up with too little effort I decrease my BRF, if I need to use excessive pressure to lock up the brakes I increase BRF. My BRF settings on the wheel are usually 30-60 but I also changed the angle in which my pedals mount on my rig, Fanatec had the pedals too laid back, I rotated my whole pedal assembly so the pedals are more vertical than previously, it made a tremendous difference.
     
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  16. Deadpool

    Deadpool

    Messages:
    399
    Location:
    United States
    Set your drift setting to off. Drift settings kill steering response and it’s no longer a 1:1 steering ratio when making corrections.

    My settings:

    In Game:
    FF Strength 5
    Sensitivity 10

    Wheel:
    Sensitivity Auto
    FF 100
    Brf 60-70
    FEI 10
    Spring 100
    Damper 100
    Drift OFF (leave this off guys)
    ABS 97
    Shock 100

    Still making a few tweaks but this is a really good setup for feeling what the cars doing and great for making mid corner corrections.