Questions on motor oil

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FuryX21

FuryX21

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Hello everyone. A couple of months ago I decided to start buying Mobil 1 exclusively since I heard from many sources that it was the best brand. I made sure to check the labeling to make sure that it could be used for my car, but found no warnings or anything. Around the time I first used it in my car, I noticed that my car began to jerk mildly during accelaration at low RPMs as if it wanted to cut off. If I apply a certain amount of throttle, the car jerks very badly. Thinking that it was just a temporary deal resulting from a change in cleaning power, I ignored it. Yet the problem persisted. I just got my oil changed a few days ago and was hoping that that would fix the problem, but it apparently hasn't.

So yesterday I go into Auto Zone and ask a rep what the numbers on the oil quarts mean. They said that it tells the weight of the oil, with a higher number meaning more heavy oil. They mentioned that 20W-50, a heavy oil, is usually used for truck engines. Thing is, 20W-50 was the type that I put in my car a couple months back.


I'm guessing that since that oil is designed for truck engines (which are built with low-end torque in mind), maybe that explains why my car jerks so bad under 3000rpms (I drive a MT) because that is the powerband being targeted. My questions are: Have I done any permanent damage to my engine by using that type of oil and if not how can I get it fixed? Exactly what type of oil should I be using? Keep in mind that I'm driving an '89 Acura Integra with over 300,000 miles on it.
 
Honda 4 cyl. engines usually take 5W30 or 10W30 oil. The oil you should choose is specified in the owners manual, and it depends on the normal operating temperature of the car.

Using heavy oil may have caused some premature bearing wear, as the oil could not reach all moving parts quickly enough on startup. 20W50 is pretty thick, it may have been the cause of the bucking you dscribed. Still, nothing much to worry about.
 
You should use Quaker State High Mileage oil if you are driving around something with that many miles on it.
 
I don't have the owner's manual. Can you direct me to an online site that might have it?

Also, could anyone direct me to a site that would explain in-depth what exactly the numbers mean on oil quarts?
 
I can't find you a manual. But I can tell you what the numbers mean.

Higher numbers = thicker oil.
10W30 acts like 10 weight when it's cold (for protection on cold starts) and 30 weight when it's warm (so it sticks to moving parts well).

EDIT: Actually, the '89 Integra probably uses the same wieght oil as my '90 Civic. 5W30 would be best for you, possibly 10W30 if you live in a warmer climate (I live in New England).
 
I've just put Mobil 1 10W30 oil into my '95 Mazda Miata which has 62000 miles on it. It runs really well now, as I also put in Platinum dual tip spark plugs.

Thing is with the oil, I was warned by the folks at Firestone, and another garage, that once you go to synthetic oil, you can never go back to regular oil, since the synthetic stuff is designed to cling to the engine parts, and not just drain into the sump when you turn off the engine like normal oil does.

If you've got the wrong grade synthetic oil in there, you should drain it a.s.a.p. and replace the oil and oil filter with some less viscous synthetic stuff. Just don't go back to regular old Pennzoil or Valvoline etc etc, unless its their synthetic stuff.
 
the "best" oil depends on who you listen to and what you read. there are tests on the internet that say mobil1 is "ok" but amsoil is the best, funnily enough you can find those tests on the amsoil website and the "independant" test company who did the tests is also "sponsored" by amsoil (ie: on the payroll). i personally think pennzoil is the best oil out there quality-wise, others may disagree

on an old engine with that much mileage, you should be running a WAY thicker oil! mobil 1 is a thin, synthetic oil designed for fresh engines with tight clearances. the surging you speak of may be bearing shake, as the lubrication surfaces on the big ends and crankshaft aren't as well protected with the thin mobil 1. this isn't likely though, an engine with the bearing surfaces bottoming out doesn't usually last very long at all. it could also be the oil burning up from piston blowby and going back into the combustion chamber via the PCV system and interrupting the combustion process? dunno

at a guess, i'd say you may have caused some slight damage to the engine, but changing to a thicker oil asap would probably cover the problem up. even so, you're probably knocked 50+ thousand miles off the life of your engine, when it eventually does decide to fail (and you've had a bloody good run out of it anyway)

if i were you, i'd get my oil and filter changed. use a new honda filter from the dealer, and put in something like pennzoil "older engine oil" which you can get in straight 50w and 60w. it's also a mineral oil, so it will be less polluted by blowby from the worn bores your engine has and it will protect the engine longer. i think a semi synthetic or a friction modified oil (such as 20w50, which isn't really that thick) would be a waste of money in such a worn out engine

though on an engine with that many miles, who cares what oil you put in it. it's going to die soon anyway, it's already overdue for a rebuild. my advice is to just buy $6 kmart oil and start saving for a rebuild, or new engine, or new car. if you're going to get the engine rebuilt, get some headwork and cams at the same time, and a new exhaust and a good filter. it's easier and cheaper to do it while it's all apart, and you'll be glad you did. and don't put high miles on a modified engine, it'll only last half as long as a stock one, if that
 
As long as he's not burning/leaking oil, I don't see any reason to go to the thicker oil.
 
I'm not saying it will, but it's not unreasonable to think that a 300,000 mile integra will go another 100k before needing a rebuild.
 
on an old engine with that much mileage, you should be running a WAY thicker oil!

I'm confused. I unknowingly put in the 20W-50 stuff and it seemed to do harm, so why should I go even thicker? And you say that 20W-50 is not that thick. I thought that higher numbers mean thicker oil, thus 20W-50 would be thicker than 10W-40 right?

Keep in mind that I am only 17 so engine rebuilding and such is not an option. My mom bought the car in August 2003 so I've only driven about 10k miles or so of the 300k+. I also live in Atlanta where its a pretty warm climate most of the time. If my car breaks down then its back to public transportation for me.
 
sorry, you didn't state before and afters, so i was under the assumption you changed your stock oil for 0w mobil or something. changing back to your factory oil viscosity with a new factory filter would be a good idea. i have no idea about the surging thing, it's difficult to tell from the description and without hearing it or driving it, a mehcanic may be your best bet. perhaps the thicker oil is making a valve stick or interfering with the operation of hydaulic lifters if your motor has them. i don't know enough about honda motors to say?

however - i'll bet mobil 1 of the correct weight would be better than whatever you had in it before?

don't let this scare you off touching your own car, working on engines is easy peasy and a great way to save money, just make sure you do your research first. howstuffworks.com is a great site, and look at what people who also have your car have done to theirs, a honda forum may also provide you with a better idea of what's happening. best of luck :)
 
Do an oil change, new filter and all, and run 10W30. 20W50 isn't a truck oil, it's just a heavier weight. 20W50 is more commonly used in older engines, or motors with looser tolerances, where there's a lot of space to fill, and the oil needs to be thick. It also protects against burning, leaks, etc.

However, with a good motor, it's not a good idea. It's simply too thick to be effective.

Finally, a word of advice, don't listen to anything anyone at Autozone says. 90% of their employees don't know any more about cars than your typical employee at Best Buy or Macy's.
 
Thats the thing though. I just got an oil change done this past Saturday on the 5th, yet the problem persists.

One thing I've noticed is that this bucking only seems to happen while the engine is warm. If I crank the car up and drive off while the engine is still cold, the car is fine. Also, the car is fine as long as I apply minimal throttle while under 3000rpms. When I try to apply greater throttle, thats when the bucking starts. The greater the throttle input, the worse the bucking. Once again, it only happens, roughly, under 3000rpms. The car acts fine anywhere above that regardless of the throttle input.
 
describe this jerking more. does the engine make more noise or a different noise? is there anything different about the tip of your exhaust (deposits, etc)?

perhaps your spark plugs are a bit gummed up and causing misfires. seriously, at the risk of something bad happening with your car and you being left without one, i'd say it's time to visit a mechanic
 
When the car bucks, the engine still runs like normal, there's just a "sound" cutting in and out. It sounds and feels similar to when you are about to stall the engine in a manual transmission car, except when this happens I'm going at a reasonable speed. It makes the whole car tremble, and the harder I press the gas the more violent the trembling gets. Its as if the car wants to stall at a full 30+ mph.
 
FuryX21
When the car bucks, the engine still runs like normal, there's just a "sound" cutting in and out. It sounds and feels similar to when you are about to stall the engine in a manual transmission car, except when this happens I'm going at a reasonable speed. It makes the whole car tremble, and the harder I press the gas the more violent the trembling gets. Its as if the car wants to stall at a full 30+ mph.
Click to expand...
Depress your handbrake.
 
Lol, its not the handbrake. I'm gonna try to get in touch with one of my family members whose a mechanic and have him check it out over the course of this weekend. I really would like to learn how to work on my own car someday though.
 
I don't believe that any oil that meets the certifications that pretty much every oil does is going to make any immediately noticeable difference. Not unless the first thing you do every morning when you start the car is peg it off the rev limiter for 2-3 minutes to warm it up.


Edit: ^ D'oh. :dunce:
 

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