R33 Skyline Dash Build (JC32 + Pro Gauge)

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Hatlesschimp
20140903_143528.jpg 20140903_143423.jpg Screenshot_2014-09-07-08-57-17.png 20140906_122407.jpg 20140906_122216.jpg 20140906_121408.jpg My jc32 just arrived from SymProjects and I need help with what buttons should be doing what in game. I'm still a rookie at 2.66 Sr from 10 races. I've been practising lots and been away with work for the last 3 weeks. I bought some buttons already 2 rotary encodes with 4 positions on the dial. 10 push momentary buttons and 5 up / down monetary toggle switches. Also I managed to obtain a Nissan skyline R33 dashboard console for 99 cents lol and would like to use the hazard switch for the pit button lol. Later today I'm also picking up the centre console, cluster and gear stick surround today. I'm going to cut the passenger side of the dashboard off to make it all a bit smaller. I have the logitech z906 5.1 system and will mount the volume control unit like a cd player lol.

Would love some help with the buttons and rotary encoders and also the hazard switch. I'll post pictures and videos as I build it. Thanks lads.
 
Thanks Takumi.

I still need some help with the rotary encoders from someone. I'll continue on with it all today.
 
When you say you need help with the encoders, what do you need help with exactly? Interfacing them with the control electronics? What do you want to use them for? How can a rotary encoder - something that is supposed to rotate freely - have four positions? Is it not a four-throw rotary switch? Can you provide a model number, datasheet or a link to where you bought them from? What electronics are you using? I have more questions but they can wait!
 
When I bought it the lad at the store said its a 3 pole. Whatever that means LOL. It only clicks into 4 different spots i.e when fully turned to the left it only turns to the right 3 more clicks plus the original position. Im hopping I can have one rotary for various chat channels and the other for position, lap times, difference etc. Maybe a 3rd for brake bias but i think i need a different rotary encoder for that job.

I bought it from Jaycar.

I think its this one (i think)
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SR1214

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Had another play with the Dashboard and how it will mount with the steering wheel and my cockpit. To avoid heavy modification of the steering wheel end of the cockpit I need to move the whole front end assembly to the right about 40mm. Also I have to cut into the dashboard facia a little to fit the T300 steering wheel. And then once thats all done I have to secure the dashboard with some custom brackets.

NLR COCKPIT.jpg
NLR COCKPIT2.jpg
 
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Ah, yeah, as I suspected what you've got is a rotary swich, not a rotary encoder. Sadly, these are completely different devices:

- Rotary switches have a limited number of positions (as you know), a fairly hard 'snap' action when you turn them and a whole load of pins. They're good as selector switches. I've got two next to me as I type this, one for my G27 to switch it between my PC, PS3 and off (disconnected) and another for my headphones to switch them between my PC, PS3, Xbox 360 and then I have a channel spare in case I ever need to add another.

- Rotary encoders can turn infinitely in either direction, they have a gentle 'step' action and only three pins (that is if you have a pretty bog-standard encoder with no push button - they can have more pins). They're good as relative 'up/down' switches, so they're often used in stereos/hi-fis for volume knobs, in microwaves as time setting knobs and other things where you'll want to be able to reset them to zero without requiring the user to manually turn the knob back. Basically, any control that has an 'up/down', 'forward/back', 'left/right' or '+/-' setting can use a rotary encoder instead.

So, long story short, you can't do what you want with what you've got - you need an encoder. I don't know anything about iRacing so I don't quite understand what you mean by "one rotary for various chat channels and the other for position, lap times, difference etc."; does it have a 'previous/next chat channel' input? Could you take screenshots of the key mapping screen(s) so I could get a better understanding, please?

In any case, don't get rid of your rotary switches just yet. You could use what you've got to effectively multiply the encoder you'll eventually buy; instead of having several encoders, you could just have one rotary encoder and one mode selector rotary switch. Your 3P4T (three pole, four throw) switch could replace four rotary encoders with an integrated push switch, provided the device you're connecting them to has that many inputs.

About the three pole, four throw thing: Switches are described as having a certain number of poles and throws, almost always abbreviated to xPyT, so in your case you have a 3P4T. The 'throw' bit is easy to explain; it's how many positions a switch has, while the poles is a little harder; it basically describes how many actual electrical switches are inside your switch; if you want one button to create two entirely separate connections at the same time you'd use a switch with two poles. This might help explain it a bit clearer:

index.php


The dotted line is used to indicate that the switches are joined together, so when one is switched the other will be too (otherwise it would just look like two separate D or SPST switches above one another). So this should help you visualise what's going on inside your switch, but I know from experience that it's quite tricky to get at first - trust me, you'll learn the difference pretty quickly if you keep ordering SPDT switches when you wanted DPST! This should help make it clearer still:

electronique_commutateurs_rotatifs_001c.gif


You can see that pin A will connect to pins 1, 2, 3 or 4 depending on which position the knob is turned to, B connects to 5-8 and C to 9-12. Your switch should have the same markings on it, I've never seen a switch of that type without alphabetical labeling for the inner pins and numerical for the outer.


So, can you post info (links, manuals, even just the name) on the boards you're using to connect your buttons to your PC, please? It might make it clearer as to which rotary encoders would be best for what you want to do. I've used Bourns ECW1D-B24-BC0024L encoders before and they seem pretty good but I was using them with a hardware decoder which is a bit complex. It may be that the board you're using is preconfigured to allow you to use encoders with no hassle, I know the Leo Bodnar boards do that.


Edit: I see the 'JC32' you referred to is your controller board, and it supports encoders. That's great, I suggest getting at least one of the encoders I linked above and you should be good to go, wiring it up to the rotary switch to get more functions out of it would be so easy, too.
 
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Thanks Neema for all the info.

Its sounds cool that I could use the Rotary switch with the rotary encoder.

Im thinking of using a rotary switch to select things like Game SFX Volume, Chat Volume, etc then use the Encoder to increase/decrease.

I totally dont have a clue how I would wire it all up. Im good for the level of exposure ive had to electronics but encoders have blown my mind lol. Thanks for the help again.

Here are some screen shots Ive grabbed from the web to give you an idea of posible key bindings.

controls.jpg options6-controls.jpg settingss.png
 
Ok, well, it seems to me that most things have increment, decrement and set so you may be better off with an encoder which has an integrated push button (so you can push it to set things), but as there are 13 in-car adjustments plus prev/next black box, select prev/next control then increment, decrement and toggle selected control, if you want to do all of that you're going to need quite a few encoders or switches (or both!).

Do you have a list of the inputs you'd like to be able to map? I ask because you can't do all of these with just the one JC32, it has a maximum of 32 buttons or 16 rotary encoders (as they take up two inputs each), so if you want to do all 13 in-car adjustments you need 26 inputs for encoders which leaves you with only eight left over, and then you need (I presume) an individual 'set' button for each adjustment - maybe you can have one 'set' button for everything, though? I really don't know.

As for wiring the encoder, with the JC32 it's very simple. The middle pin would be kept at 0V while the other two (as there are only three) go to one input each on the JC32, as shown below:

rotaryencoders.png


If you want to use your rotary switch to turn one encoder into four, you'd wire up the left and right pins (doesn't really matter which goes where) of the encoder to pins A and B on the switch, then you'd wire pins 1, 2, 3 and 4 to, say, the JC32's B01, B03, B05 and B07 while pins 5, 6, 7 and 8 would go to B02, B04, B06 and B08. Then you just label the switch so that you have, for instance, ABS, brake bias, front roll bar and rear roll bar positions, then you can turn the encoder to increment or decrement each setting depending on the position of the switch. I'd recommend you also get an encoder with a pushbutton, though, so you can wire that up to pin C on the switch, then switch pins 9, 10, 11 and 12 to the JC32's B09, B10, B11 and B12 so you can have 'set' buttons for each adjustment. That does mean you've just used 12 of the 32 inputs available on the JC32 for four adjustments so you could do eight adjustments with individual set buttons and be left with 8 inputs for other stuff per JC32 controller.
 
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