Rain setup needed - BMW M6 GT3

[CJW Racing]

So I have a race tomorrow in the BMW M6 GT3. At the minute I'm running a circuit setup but it doesn't suit wet conditions.

Anyone got a good setup for it? I've searched here and YouTube to no avail

 

[mirial]

So I have a race tomorrow in the BMW M6 GT3. At the minute I'm running a circuit setup but it doesn't suit wet conditions.

Anyone got a good setup for it? I've searched here and YouTube to no avail

Your best bet would be to begin with:

moderate ride height (To have sufficient roll to delay weight transfer. Too much RH and the tyres will give up their grip once fully loaded mid corner, not enough and the car won't roll and the tyres may not have enough initial bite on corner entry also)
softest springs (to minimise weight transfer both under deceleration and acceleration mostly and some laterally)
softest roll bars (to minimise some weight transfer both under deceleration and acceleration but mostly laterally)
lightest compression for dampers (to minimise weight transfer laterally)
heaviest decompression for dampers (to slow weight transfer as much as possible, but minimise transfer on outside wheels)
2 degrees camber (should be enough to get tyres to initially bite and to provide sufficient contact at max. weight transfer)
0 degrees front toe, +1 degree rear toe (but try to aim to reduce this for more better slip angle mid corner and exit)
Max. downforce front and rear
Diff; initial 5, acceleration between 10 - 5, braking 5

If the tyres slide initially in a corner then they aren't interlocking sufficiently into the road, so this has to be increased via springs/roll bars/dampers/ride height/camber increase.

If the tyres slide too much during max. weight transfer (typically medium - high speed corners at mid-corner), then the tyres are being over-worked/distorted and the loading needs to be reduced with the roll bars/dampers/ride height/camber decrease.

The key thing is to firstly prioritise a car that will grip in the high speed corners, yet still work adequately in the low-speed ones as a secondary priority. Unfortunately, by the laws of nature, a car that is highly effective in both tends to be harder to drive.

 

[CJW Racing]

Your best bet would be to begin with:

moderate ride height (To have sufficient roll to delay weight transfer. Too much RH and the tyres will give up their grip once fully loaded mid corner, not enough and the car won't roll and the tyres may not have enough initial bite on corner entry also)
softest springs (to minimise weight transfer both under deceleration and acceleration mostly and some laterally)
softest roll bars (to minimise some weight transfer both under deceleration and acceleration but mostly laterally)
lightest compression for dampers (to minimise weight transfer laterally)
heaviest decompression for dampers (to slow weight transfer as much as possible, but minimise transfer on outside wheels)
2 degrees camber (should be enough to get tyres to initially bite and to provide sufficient contact at max. weight transfer)
0 degrees front toe, +1 degree rear toe (but try to aim to reduce this for more better slip angle mid corner and exit)
Max. downforce front and rear
Diff; initial 5, acceleration between 10 - 5, braking 5

If the tyres slide initially in a corner then they aren't interlocking sufficiently into the road, so this has to be increased via springs/roll bars/dampers/ride height/camber increase.

If the tyres slide too much during max. weight transfer (typically medium - high speed corners at mid-corner), then the tyres are being over-worked/distorted and the loading needs to be reduced with the roll bars/dampers/ride height/camber decrease.

The key thing is to firstly prioritise a car that will grip in the high speed corners, yet still work adequately in the low-speed ones as a secondary priority. Unfortunately, by the laws of nature, a car that is highly effective in both tends to be harder to drive.

Thanks that's very helpful I'll give it a try

 

[mirial]

Thanks that's very helpful I'll give it a try

How did you find it?

 

[CJW Racing]

How did you find it?

It worked really well!

Managed a 2nd in the sprint and 5th in the longer feature race. Felt very stable. Gearbox tuning is a weakness though

 

[Storm_SP17]

It worked really well!

Managed a 2nd in the sprint and 5th in the longer feature race. Felt very stable. Gearbox tuning is a weakness though

Transmission flip is reliable.

Essentially, its the concept of first making the "Final Gear" ratio is maximum figure (e.g. 5.000) then setting the "Max Speed" to lowest (e.g. 124mph) then setting each individual gear in relation to how far left/right it is to the midpoint, before realigning the Final Gear to match the track.

Usually for setting the individual gears, I treat far left as 0% and far right as 100%. On a 6-speed, I use 0-20-40-60-80-100% as my increment on gears 1 through 6. There is a mathematical way to find the exact figure but a rough guess is usually fine. As you might have noticed, increments are in 5ths for a 6 speed, so use 4ths for a 5 speed and 6th for a 7 speed...

What I have noticed on gearboxes though is that regardless of the overall span of the gearbox, any gears to the left of the midpoint will promote stable entry to corners but more rotation on throttle, with any gears set to the right of the midpoint allowing for rotation upon corner entry but more stability upon throttle application.

 

[Mendes1201]

Also don't forget to set wings to max, and try to keep brakes on neutral, that might help with corner entering stability.
Try adopting a wider/slower corner entering racing line so that you maximize you acceleration throughout the exit and focus on finding references for the latest braking points possible, could be an orange rail, the usual distance plates, kerbs, electronic flags display, bridges, marshals entrances alongside the track, even permanent skidmarks can be used although in the rain I recon they're a lot harder to see.

Hope I could help

 

[CJW Racing]

Transmission flip is reliable.

Essentially, its the concept of first making the "Final Gear" ratio is maximum figure (e.g. 5.000) then setting the "Max Speed" to lowest (e.g. 124mph) then setting each individual gear in relation to how far left/right it is to the midpoint, before realigning the Final Gear to match the track.

Usually for setting the individual gears, I treat far left as 0% and far right as 100%. On a 6-speed, I use 0-20-40-60-80-100% as my increment on gears 1 through 6. There is a mathematical way to find the exact figure but a rough guess is usually fine. As you might have noticed, increments are in 5ths for a 6 speed, so use 4ths for a 5 speed and 6th for a 7 speed...

What I have noticed on gearboxes though is that regardless of the overall span of the gearbox, any gears to the left of the midpoint will promote stable entry to corners but more rotation on throttle, with any gears set to the right of the midpoint allowing for rotation upon corner entry but more stability upon throttle application.

That was said in perfect terms. But made no sense to a dweeb like me

 

[Storm_SP17]

I'll try to explain a bit better...

So you have settings for "Max Speed" and "Final Gear" in the Transmission, and to start this trick you pull the slider of the "Final Gear" all the way to the right to the highest mumber it can go.

When you do that, you next take the slider of the "Max Speed" all the way to the left, which takes the top speed of the transmission to the lowest it can achieve by default.

You then pull 1st gear slider all the way to the left, and 6th (if a 6-speed car) gear slider all the way to the right. You then want to evenly space each gear in between 1st and 6th, so that the gear ratios look an equal gap apart as you look at the gear ratio chart.

The final part is just to go back to the "Final Gear" slider and moving it back across to the left until you reach the top speed you desire in relation to the track you are running at.

Treating the individual gears as 0-100% from left to right only makes sense once you've adjusted those first 4 things.