rally car tuning `

From an automotive textbook: "The extension cycle controls the motions of the vehicle body's sprung weight. The compression cycle controls the same motions of the vehicle's unsprung weight." This means that if you're trying to adjust the way that the car's body rolls, you should use extension, and, if you're trying to adjust the way the tires bounce off of curbs, you should use compression.


Just a heads up, since rally courses can be pretty bumpy. I wish I could say more, but I legally can't. I gave my word to the guys at a local rally shop that I wouldn't tell people their secrets... All I can say is that softer is usually better, unless the car becomes unresponsive - then change the extension.
 
I found this post helpful!
I have a setup which works for fastest lap 1:17.443 with a good driver, and 1:19 with a bad driver. Yes, it will get you gold, easily. I focused on the ease of use, though, using real life rallying setup secrets... And as an added bonus, it works on all rally cars.
Suspension:
Ride height: 115/115
Spring rates: untouched/untouched (4.88/4.16)
Dampers: 2/2, 2/2
Anti-roll: 1/1 (rally drivers remove anti-roll bars)
Camber: 0/0
Toe: 0/0
Brakes: 5/5
Transmission: auto-set 220 km/h
LSD: 5/30/10, 5/30/10
Torque split: 50/50
Basically, the idea is to get the weight to shift as quickly as possible, and as much as possible, which provides for stable cornering, regardless of any bumps etc. You can basically full-throttle the car around every corner except the sharp hairpins. Lifting off of the gas before turn-in is quite a quick way to change directions.
 
From an automotive textbook: "The extension cycle controls the motions of the vehicle body's sprung weight. The compression cycle controls the same motions of the vehicle's unsprung weight." This means that if you're trying to adjust the way that the car's body rolls, you should use extension, and, if you're trying to adjust the way the tires bounce off of curbs, you should use compression.


Just a heads up, since rally courses can be pretty bumpy. I wish I could say more, but I legally can't. I gave my word to the guys at a local rally shop that I wouldn't tell people their secrets... All I can say is that softer is usually better, unless the car becomes unresponsive - then change the extension.

This was really helpful
 
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:)
 
I did this for GT5. I would like to do it again for GT6, but have been playing other aspects of the game. Much of this may transfer to GT6? At least this may give you a starting point.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/rally-car-tune-build-process-by-mch.271160/
I was JUST thinking about this this weekend!
Anyway, in GT5 some fairly illogical setups produced some very fast Rally times! Setups with center diffs at 35:65, harder spring rates, etc, occasionally demolished tunes you'd think were perfect for rally (higher ride height, softer suspension, 50:50 torque split, etc.) So in typical PD fashion, rally tuning in GT6 isn't as black and white as it seems. I enjoy rally very much and even among rally cars, the tuning can be frustratingly hard to get perfect. I like MCH's quote, "I threw the kitchen sink at it and the car went much faster, I've learned nothing." because that sums up rally tuning in GT6, at least for me.
 
To clarify, I didn't make my tuning setup to be the ultimate fastest lap possible. I made mine easy to drive, which in itself is fast, through consistency and control.

It is certainly possible and probable to make a car faster and I in no way claim to be the fastest, but rather the easiest to work with tuner of rally cars.
 
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