Relaxed grip and driving position (using a Wheel)

  • Thread starter DoctorNuu
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I want to share some thoughts and get some input on how to achieve a relaxed driving position when using a wheel.

Background: Switched to Fanatec recently. Getting thumb cramps.
Gripping too tight/hard in general.
Seems to make reactions worse and leads to overall tension instead of relaxed driving.

Wheel Problems:
The wheels I have used seem to not offer a default comfortable gripping position.
This applies to the T300 as well as the Fanatec CSL Elite Standard wheel.
  • The grips are just too thin. (I have pretty average size hands)
  • The thumb rests (3-9 grip) are a little too low for my liking. The weight of the arms is way below turning point. This makes turning harder.
Observations:
  • For real cars, and also F1 and DTM, it looks like the thumb rests are a good bit above the center of rotation, and the other fingers are allowed to grip below.
    Neither is the case for T300 or CSL Elite.
  • TheKie25 on the T-GT seems to favor more like a 2-10 grip. The T-GT has humps there.
    I will try this on the CSL Elite, but the humps are very far up, making it hard to reach the shifters as usual.
    Without humps, it is too hard to get a good grip of the thin rim.
  • SuperGT seems pretty relaxed on his expensive F1 rim.
    Hard to judge, but it also looks like all the force rests on the thumbs.
Partial Solution:
On the T300, I used grip tape (tennis) and pipe isolation to make really comfortable grips. But it took a lot of fiddling and still is a mess.
Maybe I'll do better on a second try with the CSL Elite.
The lesson learned here: When the grip is really chunky, it allows the index fingers rest on it, so weight is taken away from the thumbs.

Gloves:
It surely looks cool to use them, but any feeling just goes out of the window for me.
A good grip should be comfortable enough to use it without gloves - and without blisters.

Pedal Problems:
The brake pedals on standard sets are very close to the throttle. Obviously fine for right foot braking.
Left foot brakers have a problem: The left leg is always in tension, and the balls get squeezed.

Simple solution:
On the T300 RS GT pedals (same as T-GT) I just switched clutch and brake, resulting in a comfortable distance.
On the CSL Elite, ther brake pedal can be mounted as far left as desired.
Result: legs are in a symmetric position and really relaxed when idle. Balls are fine.

Seating Problems:
Did not encounter any. Using a custom IKEA rig and 'relax' chair. Adjusted seating and distances to my liking.
 
I switched to a 2-10 grip after a wrist injury, couldn't drive 3-9 anymore without pain. G29 wheel.
I use gloves during FIA races, mostly it's for sweat, you don't lose grip when battling and your hands start sweating.
 
Cheers Doc, I get relaxed by drinking copious amounts of alcohol..

Pedal Problems:
The brake pedals on standard sets are very close to the throttle. Obviously fine for right foot braking.
Left foot brakers have a problem: The left leg is always in tension, and the balls get squeezed.

WHAT?? if your balls are getting squeezed during braking then I suggest changing your underpants..Waaay too tight, but then I ain’t a Doc, eh Doc ?
 
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WHAT?? if your balls are getting squeezed during braking then I suggest changing your underpants..Waaay too tight, but then I ain’t a Doc, eh Doc ?

Hahaha

He must have big balls! I know what he means though... I swapped my clutch and brake pedal over two days ago as I use left foot braking and paddle shifting (I don't have a stick - yet). With the gas pedal set comfortably to your seated position so your right leg is straight, your left leg angles in to the middle for the brake pedal.
I wasn't squashing my balls (maybe they're too small haha) but it was putting strain on may left knee what with that leg being angled in like that.
Swapping the clutch and brake means both legs are now straight, it's so much more comfortable and it's even made braking far easier and controllable.
 
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WHAT?? if your balls are getting squeezed during braking then I suggest changing your underpants..Waaay too tight, but then I ain’t a Doc, eh Doc ?

Wassup Pearl? If only they were pearls... no issues whatsoever!

Hahaha

He must have big balls! I know what he means though... I swapped my clutch and brake pedal over two days ago as I use left foot braking and paddle shifting (I don't have a stick - yet). With the gas pedal set comfortably to your seated position so your right leg is straight, your left leg angles in to the middle for the brake pedal.
I wasn't squashing my balls (maybe they're too small haha) but it was putting strain on may left knee what with that leg being angled in like that.
Swapping the clutch and brake means both legs are now straight, it's so much more comfortable and it's even made braking far easier and controllable.

So finally you agree after all this baller talk!
 
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Gloves:
It surely looks cool to use them, but any feeling just goes out of the window for me.

Not for me. I can't imagine using it without gloves anymore. It's just way better for grip. Plus the wheel still looks like new. And I use just the most ordinary pair of fleece gloves.

On the T300 RS GT pedals (same as T-GT) I just switched clutch and brake, resulting in a comfortable distance.

How did you do that? Do you have to physically swap the pedals (the internals) or can it be done through settings? I have a T300RS GT with T3PA pedals as well.
 
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How did you do that? Do you have to physically swap the pedals (the internals) or can it be done through settings? I have a T300RS with T3PA pedals as well.
You definitely have to open it. It was two years ago, so details are a bit blurry.
I think, I had to unscrew the pedals to swap the springs, because the brake has a thicker/harder spring.
I don't think I swapped the whole pedal.
The electronics (potentiometers) can definitely stay in place and you just swap the cables.
 
You definitely have to open it. It was two years ago, so details are a bit blurry.
I think, I had to unscrew the pedals to swap the springs, because the brake has a thicker/harder spring.
I don't think I swapped the whole pedal.
The electronics (potentiometers) can definitely stay in place and you just swap the cables.

Do you have Fanatec V3 load cell pedals? I remember it requiring pretty extensive disassembly to swap brake/clutch around and potentiometer too. I ended up putting them back in the original locations but moved the brake pedal pad on the arm to desired location and wire tied the clutch pedal to the "floor"
 
Left foot brakers have a problem: The left leg is always in tension, and the balls get squeezed.

Can't say I've ever actually encountered that problem. Either while gaming, or driving. Can't say that I have particularly large balls, either. I do have big thighs, though.

Left knee does always give me a bit of trouble after long sessions. But, I've been putting that down to injury, instead of anything else.
 
You definitely have to open it. It was two years ago, so details are a bit blurry.
I think, I had to unscrew the pedals to swap the springs, because the brake has a thicker/harder spring.
I don't think I swapped the whole pedal.
The electronics (potentiometers) can definitely stay in place and you just swap the cables.

Oh 🤬, that's what I was afraid of. I'm not doing that. Thx for the reply. 👍
 
Bear in mind that adding that plate will add extra force to your braking if you leave the clutch spring in. It offers much better resistance than just the stock brake spring though.

I went the whole hog and added a GTEYE brake spring as well. It's probably around 25-30lb of pressure for full brake but I'm finding the braking more intuitive as a result. Easier to modulate.
 
I thought about that and figured as much. I already have the GTEYE brake and throttle spring so I’m used to a more resistant pedal. I guess I’ll just have to get used to an even heavier pedal.
Did you leave in the rubber piece? I left it out.
Also, did you get the throttle spring? I really like it. It also helps modulate the throttle better, like the brake spring. Being a lead foot it helps me with TC.
I ordered the brake pedal earlier today.
 
Did you leave in the rubber piece? I left it out.

I gave it a try but didn't like the small dead zone at the end of the pedal's travel and I'm not too keen on the pedal slamming into the plastic housing at full travel either. The rubber insert stops both things happening so it went straight back in.

Also, did you get the throttle spring? I really like it. It also helps modulate the throttle better, like the brake spring. Being a lead foot it helps me with TC.

No problem with the original spring for me. It was all about adding more force to the brake to get some proper resistance from it. I was looking at Ricmotech's load cell first but chickened out in case it needs too much force to hit full brake reliably. Gotta say I'm still tempted to try one though as full brake is still easy to reach, even with the double plate and two springs pushing back.
 
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