Renault Alpine A110 1600 group 4 rally car

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eran0004
alpine_a110_michelle_mouton.jpg



Weight:

  • Weight reduction: stage 3
  • Carbon bonnet (body colour)
  • Window weight reduction
  • Ballast: +65 kg
  • Ballast position: 50% (the maximum value)
Power:




    • Engine tuning: stage 2
    • Exhaust: Semi-Racing
    • Power limiter: 89.0%
Gearbox:




    • Final drive: 3.370
    • Set top speed to 200 km/h, then set the following ratios:
    • 1st: 3.620
    • 2nd: 2.500
    • 3rd: 1.910
    • 4th: 1.490
    • 5th: 1.030 (standard) or 1.140 (optional close ratio gear)
LSD:




    • Initial torque: 30
    • Acceleration: 50
    • Braking: 50
Suspension:




    • Ride height: 130 mm ; 130 mm
    • Spring rate: 2.15 kgf / mm ; 2.10 kgf / mm
    • Dampers Compression: 1 ; 1
    • Dampers Extension: 2 ; 2
    • Antiroll bars: 1 ; 1
    • Camber: -1.5 ; -2.0
    • Toe: 0.10 ; 0.00
Brakes:




    • Racing brakes
    • Bias: 3 ; 3 (adjust as you see fit)


Background


This is an attempt at recreating the Alpine A110 1600 group 4 rally car. There are some different statements on the specs of the car, so I'll list the sources for the data I've been using:

Main source: http://www.tech-racingcars.eu/renault-alpine-a110-1-6
Gearbox source: http://forum.nordicgames.at/showthr...9f46f873d09e&p=1403006&viewfull=1#post1403006 (gearbox type 364-01)
Camber and toe: http://www.renaultalpine.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=7208&p=76205#p76197

Videos of the car in action have been used as reference for the handling characteristics.

Throughout the tuning process, the car has gone through 600 kilometers of test driving, on dirt, snow, dry tarmac and wet tarmac. The tyres used for tarmac tests were sports hard or less.

Note: This is probably not an optimal tune for the car, I'm sure there are way faster tunes out there. The goal hasn't been to make a fast car, it has been to replicate a real car and to make a car that is fun to drive.

The tune

Weight

The main source states a weight of 700 kg and a weight distribution of 36 : 64. Unfortunately that weight distribution is undoable in GT6, but we can at least attempt to get as close to that ratio as possible.

  • Weight reduction: stage 3
  • Carbon bonnet (body colour)
  • Window weight reduction
  • Ballast: +65 kg
  • Ballast position: 50% (the maximum value)

This should give a weight of 700 kg and a distribution of 46:54.

Power

The main source states 155 bhp @ 7000 rpm and 184 Nm @ 6000 rpm. We can't make an exact replica, but we can get pretty close. I'm chosing the semi-racing exhaust because visually it matches the exhaust I've seen on most reference photos (although it appears to be mirrored).

  • Engine tuning: stage 2
  • Exhaust: Semi-Racing
  • Power limiter: 89.0%

This should give 155 bhp @ 7000 rpm and 184 Nm (18.8 kgfm) @ 5300 rpm.

Transmission

Now this we can make an exact replica of. Unfortunately there are different statements on what the gear ratios were, but I have placed most trust in a source on the nordicgames forum, because in addition to the gear ratios the user has also posted reference numbers for the gearboxes, and those reference numbers match with the reference number (364) used by my main source.

The source lists three type 364 gearboxes, with suffixes from -01 to -06. Two of those are named "Rallye" while the third is named "Normale", so since we're making a rally car I made a choise between the 364-01 and 364-05 and I picked the -01 because it has a taller ratio final drive, which gives better acceleration but a lower top speed. Since we only have 155 bhp I'm thinking that acceleration is more important.

If you want to try any of the other gear boxes, just follow this link and pick the one you'd like to try (note: the first ratio listed is the final drive) http://forum.nordicgames.at/showthr...9f46f873d09e&p=1403006&viewfull=1#post1403006

Gear ratios:
  • Set final drive: 3.370
  • Set top speed to 200 km/h, then set the following ratios:
  • 1st: 3.620
  • 2nd: 2.500
  • 3rd: 1.910
  • 4th: 1.490
  • 5th: 1.030 (standard) or 1.140 (optional close ratio gear)

The standard gear in 5th gives a top speed of 210 km/h, while the close ratio option gives a top speed of 200 km/h. In most cases I've found that the close ratio is better, because with the standard gear the car tends to get sluggish in 5th gear. For driving on high speed courses (like Nordshleife or La Sarthe) the standard gear is probably the better choise though.

Handling

Now this is where it gets interesting, because we have to make some decisions ourselves, with very little aid from technical specs. We know that it's an RR car and that the weight distribution should be biased towards the rear. From videos of the car in action we can tell that it should be easy to get the car into a powerslide, especially on dirt and snow.

Now, if you take the Alpine with all the tuning we've done so far and make a lap at a course (dirt, snow or tarmac) you'll notice that it is pretty hard to get the car to powerslide. You have to make pretty drastic steering inputs to make that happen, and once the back do kick out it's pretty lame and weak.

The single most important piece of tuning to fix that issue is to set the limited slip differential, because what is happening otherwise is that most of the power will be transmitted to the wheel that rotates with less resistance, which is usually the inner wheel (try making "donuts" with the car, you'll notice that the inner wheel is spinning while the outer just rolls along). If we limit the slip differential we can get more power transmitted to the outer wheel, which will help it to break traction.

LSD settings:
  • Initial torque: 30
  • Acceleration: 50
  • Braking: 50
Now try making "donuts" again, you should be able to get the car to spin around on a dime.
This is not just a tune for a more flamboyant drive though, because the oversteer you get from a slight powerslide will help the car to turn in and especially on dirt and snow tracks it makes a huge difference.

Next up is the suspension. This is also guess work. I found some data on camber and toe, although that seems to be for the road car rather than the rally car, so it's best to treat this section as make-belief rather than absolute truth.

Suspension settings:

  • Ride height: 130 mm ; 130 mm
  • Spring rate: 2.15 kgf / mm ; 2.10 kgf / mm
  • Dampers Compression: 1 ; 1
  • Dampers Extension: 2 ; 2
  • Antiroll bars: 1 ; 1
  • Camber: -1.5 ; -2.0
  • Toe: 0.10 ; 0.00

Ride height is based on reference pictures, where there seems to be a bigger gap between the tyres and the body. The stiffened spring rate in the rear is based on the weight distribution being off, so the stiffer rear suspension should give the car a bit more oversteer.


Brakes:
  • Racing brakes
  • Bias: 3 ; 3 (adjust as you see fit)
grp4_drift.jpg grp4_oversteer.jpg grp4_1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks for putting so much effort into the post. Looking forward to run this car with non stock settings.
 
Not driven an Alpine in an age - Too much Stratos.

Did the tune with Comfort Softs - at Matterhorn (The long track...) 500pp Clubman cup event? Car was pacey enough to get the win, but you had to pedal pretty hard and like the Stratos it does like to scare you in the corners at times. The gradients seemed to upset the car , The second chicane up the hill would really upset the balance of the car generating an armful of oversteer - which if you know it is going to happen isn't an issue.

On the long downhill brake the car was actually very well behaved, the back end didn't try to overtake me, and the car wasn't as nervous a most cars as you hurtle down here. Comfort Tyres too.
 
What is the tire that Alpien A110 1600 Group 4 used in real life? Comfort, Sports or Racing tires?
 
What is the tire that Alpien A110 1600 Group 4 used in real life? Comfort, Sports or Racing tires?

Hard to tell. Most of the videos I've seen are on snow or snow/tarmac. Here's a picture with some tyres in the background, my amateur guess is that it's snow tyres (the zig-zag pattern ones) and tarmac tyres.

Dppi_00001512_066.jpg


And here's a film from 1971, most of it are on snow but there's some tarmac driving as well:



Personally I wouldn't go higher than sports hard tyres, but I don't know what would be the most correct compound for that time.

Ryk
Not driven an Alpine in an age - Too much Stratos.

Did the tune with Comfort Softs - at Matterhorn (The long track...) 500pp Clubman cup event? Car was pacey enough to get the win, but you had to pedal pretty hard and like the Stratos it does like to scare you in the corners at times. The gradients seemed to upset the car , The second chicane up the hill would really upset the balance of the car generating an armful of oversteer - which if you know it is going to happen isn't an issue.

On the long downhill brake the car was actually very well behaved, the back end didn't try to overtake me, and the car wasn't as nervous a most cars as you hurtle down here. Comfort Tyres too.

Yeah, Matterhorn is kind of scary, you need careful throttle control in those steep uphill corners. I have actually not tested this tune on Matterhorn myself, I'll have to do that tomorrow :)
 
The Weight balance is odd, you would expect the split to be very biased towards the rear as the engine is hanging off behind the rear axel. You did well to get it more realistic.


Wish we had the Old Chamonix Ice and Cold Tarmac stage from GT4
 
Ryk
The Weight balance is odd, you would expect the split to be very biased towards the rear as the engine is hanging off behind the rear axel. You did well to get it more realistic.


Wish we had the Old Chamonix Ice and Cold Tarmac stage from GT4

It would be driving heaven for this car. The rally tracks from GT5 aren't bad, but they're too wide for my taste. And they're too few as well.

Hopefully there'll be a course maker coming.
 
It would be great if they had a "Nice and Tight" mode where they shrunk the width of all the tracks, When you see the real life footage and how narrow the tracks are, then you get GT and the Dirt track runways you could land a light aircraft on.

At least with A track like Sierra you can choose to run half the track to make it a proper challenge (As in you stick to one side of the track and don't cross the track.
 
Ryk
It would be great if they had a "Nice and Tight" mode where they shrunk the width of all the tracks, When you see the real life footage and how narrow the tracks are, then you get GT and the Dirt track runways you could land a light aircraft on.

At least with A track like Sierra you can choose to run half the track to make it a proper challenge (As in you stick to one side of the track and don't cross the track.

Goodwood hill climb is actually perfect for this car. Too bad it's so short though, and only available in Arcade mode.
 
alpine_a110_michelle_mouton.jpg



Weight:

  • Weight reduction: stage 3
  • Carbon bonnet (body colour)
  • Window weight reduction
  • Ballast: +65 kg
  • Ballast position: 50% (the maximum value)
Power:



    • Engine tuning: stage 2
    • Exhaust: Semi-Racing
    • Power limiter: 89.0%
Gearbox:



    • Final drive: 3.370
    • Set top speed to 200 km/h, then set the following ratios:
    • 1st: 3.620
    • 2nd: 2.500
    • 3rd: 1.910
    • 4th: 1.490
    • 5th: 1.030 (standard) or 1.140 (optional close ratio gear)
LSD:



    • Initial torque: 30
    • Acceleration: 50
    • Braking: 50
Suspension:



    • Ride height: 130 mm ; 130 mm
    • Spring rate: 2.15 kgf / mm ; 2.10 kgf / mm
    • Dampers Compression: 1 ; 1
    • Dampers Extension: 2 ; 2
    • Antiroll bars: 1 ; 1
    • Camber: -1.5 ; -2.0
    • Toe: 0.10 ; 0.00
Brakes:



    • Racing brakes
    • Bias: 3 ; 3 (adjust as you see fit)


Background


This is an attempt at recreating the Alpine A110 1600 group 4 rally car. There are some different statements on the specs of the car, so I'll list the sources for the data I've been using:

Main source: http://www.tech-racingcars.eu/renault-alpine-a110-1-6
Gearbox source: http://forum.nordicgames.at/showthr...9f46f873d09e&p=1403006&viewfull=1#post1403006 (gearbox type 364-01)
Camber and toe: http://www.renaultalpine.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=7208&p=76205#p76197

Videos of the car in action have been used as reference for the handling characteristics.

Throughout the tuning process, the car has gone through 600 kilometers of test driving, on dirt, snow, dry tarmac and wet tarmac. The tyres used for tarmac tests were sports hard or less.

Note: This is probably not an optimal tune for the car, I'm sure there are way faster tunes out there. The goal hasn't been to make a fast car, it has been to replicate a real car and to make a car that is fun to drive.

The tune

Weight

The main source states a weight of 700 kg and a weight distribution of 36 : 64. Unfortunately that weight distribution is undoable in GT6, but we can at least attempt to get as close to that ratio as possible.

  • Weight reduction: stage 3
  • Carbon bonnet (body colour)
  • Window weight reduction
  • Ballast: +65 kg
  • Ballast position: 50% (the maximum value)

This should give a weight of 700 kg and a distribution of 46:54.

Power

The main source states 155 bhp @ 7000 rpm and 184 Nm @ 6000 rpm. We can't make an exact replica, but we can get pretty close. I'm chosing the semi-racing exhaust because visually it matches the exhaust I've seen on most reference photos (although it appears to be mirrored).

  • Engine tuning: stage 2
  • Exhaust: Semi-Racing
  • Power limiter: 89.0%

This should give 155 bhp @ 7000 rpm and 184 Nm (18.8 kgfm) @ 5300 rpm.

Transmission

Now this we can make an exact replica of. Unfortunately there are different statements on what the gear ratios were, but I have placed most trust in a source on the nordicgames forum, because in addition to the gear ratios the user has also posted reference numbers for the gearboxes, and those reference numbers match with the reference number (364) used by my main source.

The source lists three type 364 gearboxes, with suffixes from -01 to -06. Two of those are named "Rallye" while the third is named "Normale", so since we're making a rally car I made a choise between the 364-01 and 364-05 and I picked the -01 because it has a taller ratio final drive, which gives better acceleration but a lower top speed. Since we only have 155 bhp I'm thinking that acceleration is more important.

If you want to try any of the other gear boxes, just follow this link and pick the one you'd like to try (note: the first ratio listed is the final drive) http://forum.nordicgames.at/showthr...9f46f873d09e&p=1403006&viewfull=1#post1403006

Gear ratios:
  • Set final drive: 3.370
  • Set top speed to 200 km/h, then set the following ratios:
  • 1st: 3.620
  • 2nd: 2.500
  • 3rd: 1.910
  • 4th: 1.490
  • 5th: 1.030 (standard) or 1.140 (optional close ratio gear)

The standard gear in 5th gives a top speed of 210 km/h, while the close ratio option gives a top speed of 200 km/h. In most cases I've found that the close ratio is better, because with the standard gear the car tends to get sluggish in 5th gear. For driving on high speed courses (like Nordshleife or La Sarthe) the standard gear is probably the better choise though.

Handling

Now this is where it gets interesting, because we have to make some decisions ourselves, with very little aid from technical specs. We know that it's an RR car and that the weight distribution should be biased towards the rear. From videos of the car in action we can tell that it should be easy to get the car into a powerslide, especially on dirt and snow.

Now, if you take the Alpine with all the tuning we've done so far and make a lap at a course (dirt, snow or tarmac) you'll notice that it is pretty hard to get the car to powerslide. You have to make pretty drastic steering inputs to make that happen, and once the back do kick out it's pretty lame and weak.

The single most important piece of tuning to fix that issue is to set the limited slip differential, because what is happening otherwise is that most of the power will be transmitted to the wheel that rotates with less resistance, which is usually the inner wheel (try making "donuts" with the car, you'll notice that the inner wheel is spinning while the outer just rolls along). If we limit the slip differential we can get more power transmitted to the outer wheel, which will help it to break traction.

LSD settings:
  • Initial torque: 30
  • Acceleration: 50
  • Braking: 50
Now try making "donuts" again, you should be able to get the car to spin around on a dime.
This is not just a tune for a more flamboyant drive though, because the oversteer you get from a slight powerslide will help the car to turn in and especially on dirt and snow tracks it makes a huge difference.

Next up is the suspension. This is also guess work. I found some data on camber and toe, although that seems to be for the road car rather than the rally car, so it's best to treat this section as make-belief rather than absolute truth.

Suspension settings:

  • Ride height: 130 mm ; 130 mm
  • Spring rate: 2.15 kgf / mm ; 2.10 kgf / mm
  • Dampers Compression: 1 ; 1
  • Dampers Extension: 2 ; 2
  • Antiroll bars: 1 ; 1
  • Camber: -1.5 ; -2.0
  • Toe: 0.10 ; 0.00

Ride height is based on reference pictures, where there seems to be a bigger gap between the tyres and the body. The stiffened spring rate in the rear is based on the weight distribution being off, so the stiffer rear suspension should give the car a bit more oversteer.


Brakes:
  • Racing brakes
  • Bias: 3 ; 3 (adjust as you see fit)

The GT6 Alpine dealership lists both the '72 and '73 A110 1600S's, as well as their 15th Anniversary Edition. Which of the three are you using as the base to set up the tune? Or does it matter?
 
Best I could do was bronze.:indiff:

Yeah, it's probably the lack of 4wd that's talking there. I actually got a 1:57.2 yesterday, but I've also been driving this car for 1400 kilometers so I know the handling pretty well by now :) The car is fast enough for gold for about half the track, but once the long acceleration straights begin (especially that one that's uphill) it gets left behind by the 4wd cars because those have better traction for acceleration.
 
Great drive! l was hoping to a get sub- 2 minute time but finally had to admit I'm still too short on skill.

She may not be 4WD, but she at least holds her own among the classic cars at Silverstone. Let's hope PD hosts a 2WD rally event seasonal one of these weeks.
 

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