Repair

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J-PaP
Hi all,

Just wanted to ask what most people think regarding my current situation. My ps3 died on the weekend which eventually reached a YLOD. I just contacted sony and they stated that they will repair (not replace) my console and have it back to me in 10 days. However I am weighing up the following

Console repaired so I get my own ps3 back, however it will cost $310 AUD. My console is a 60gb launch model so I cannot directly replace it. I am unclear if I get a warranty on the repaired ps3.

I buy a 40/80gb ps3 so lose a few minor features from my 60gb. This will cost me about 470-480 AUD with the current deals going on. I will definitely have a warranty with this.

Which is the more reliable model?
 
Just spoke to them. 3 months warranty.

I had a backup of my old savegames. I lost my Ferrrari challenge, LBP 100% complete, gta4 all but online finished (pigeons, stunt jumps etc. all done) and motorstorm 2 and wipeout progress which was only around 10% anyhow
 
Just spoke to them. 3 months warranty.

I had a backup of my old savegames. I lost my Ferrrari challenge, LBP 100% complete, gta4 all but online finished (pigeons, stunt jumps etc. all done) and motorstorm 2 and wipeout progress which was only around 10% anyhow

Woah, sorry to hear that, aren't you annoyed about losing all that?

To make it even worse, if you get a new PS3, you'll lose all of your trophies.
 
He won't lose his trophies - they're associated with his PSNID, not his console.

Plus I'm sure he can find people willing to share gamesaves to get what he's lost back (I can provide a GTA4 100%, but I haven't 100%ed LBP yet)
 
Well, I am a little annoyed for you actually, 3 months psshhhh. I believe that the 40/80gig would be slightly better made and more worth it in the ling run but the amount of good things on the 60 far outways the 80/40. I mean, barely anyone in Australia got the 60 and being able to say you have got it is just a feat in itself quite frankly. You get those card readers, all the usb ports and some other minor things. I really dont know what I would get either.
 
He won't lose his trophies - they're associated with his PSNID, not his console.

Plus I'm sure he can find people willing to share gamesaves to get what he's lost back (I can provide a GTA4 100%, but I haven't 100%ed LBP yet)

Oh yeah, of course. I just said that because when I got my new PS3 I had to wipe everything out off my old one, and that also wiped out my old account as well, so I couldn't use it with my new PS3.
 
HOw did you lose your old account? You should have been able to just re-enter the details as before to get back into it? I am using another ps3 till mine is fixed and signing in using my own details worked a charm and maintained all my trophy progress and friends list.

Well I am annoyed about losing my progress with fc, lbp and gta4 but what can i do. The other games I lost was only a day or 2 progress. Kindly have been sent a 100% complete gamesave for lbp and fc (though the lbp one is a US version so I don't know if it will work yet nor have I tried the FC one.

I am leaning towards repairing the 60gb as it is a cheaper option and i can then choose to keep it or sell it. I think the fact it is discontinued though will lead to me fixing it and keeping it. Just hope it doesn't break again.

One funny note was that sony are claiming the ylod as being an "overheating issue"

I don't see how a ps3 that
a. isn't turning on to overheat in the first place
b. has never overheated in nearly 2 years can possibly be an overheating issue unless the ps3 hasn't been shutting down when overheated in the first place.

Interestingly they are giving me my same console back and only need 10 business days. Seems the ps3's are now repaired locally or they just aren't that busy with repairs.
 
But if you know your PSNID and registered e-mail address, you can simply input that into the PSN Log in screen...

There's also a function for recovering a lost password if you remember the PSNID and registered address...
 
My 60 GB PS3 also YLOD after a year or so of life. They repaired it (200 US dlls) and has gone without problem since.
They told me the problem was with the AC power unit and advice me to turn the power off (back side) to avoid future problems.
Now I keep an SD card where I periodically back up my games saves—the ones that let me. I don't want to loose everything like I did last time.

I'm sure yours will be back up again without problem, I really think they have sorted out every problem with the 60 GB model by now.
 
Which is the more reliable model?

Again, I'm sorry to hear about your loss.

Statistically speaking so far I have not seen any data that suggests one specific model is more reliable then another, although it appears they all are very reliable in general. There are some people who still think you shouldn't run F@H for reliability reasons, but Stanford University among others, and thousands of F@H users have been running their PS3 24/7 for over a year without any reliability problems.

However, if you consider that there are about 20 million PS3s world wide so far, even if just 5% failed, that's a million failed PS3s. Some have suggested that the failure rate is closer to just 1%, but that's still 200,000 PS3 - so even with such a great reliability record, some people are still going to have a problem.

For these reasons I would not be concerned about which PS3 to get in terms of reliability, but I would in terms of features. Personally though, if this happened to me I would want a new PS3, as I would always be wondering if what ever caused the problem to begin with may not have been properly identified, and thus fixed, which would mean it could fail yet again... and frankly I wouldn't want to be always worrying about that, and having to constantly back-up my data just in case.

Like you, I have a 60GB model that I bought over two years ago, and although I have never had a reason to need the backward compatibility, I do use the built-in memory card reader all the time, and I also use all 4 USB ports. I also play SACDs on my PS3 on occasions.

So it would be an added inconvenience to have to switch to a new PS3 that has no built-in memory card reader and thus I'll have to use a external USB reader.

That said, the new PS3 thanks to the 65nm chips, uses less power and runs cooler, so a change might be good.




He won't lose his trophies - they're associated with his PSNID, not his console.

👍


Plus I'm sure he can find people willing to share gamesaves to get what he's lost back (I can provide a GTA4 100%, but I haven't 100%ed LBP yet)

I sent him my 100% LBP game save, but I don't know if LBP game saves are PSN ID locked or even regionally locked, as he is in Australia and I'm in the US.




Well I had to wipe everything off my old PS3 for some reason so I lost my old account.

As Famine said, PSN account info, like trophies, is stored on Sony's servers and can easily be retrieved no matter what PS3 you have.

All you have to do is select Create New User (it doesn't matter if it is the same name as before as it makes no difference), then under the PlayStation Network menu bar in the XMB, select Use an Existing Account. Simply put in the email address and password for your old account and now most of your account info will be updated to that PS3. I believe your saved messages, browser bookmarks, and your predictive text dictionary are not replaced... although if you use the Backup Utility, that info can also be restored.
 
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I think LBP saves are account - and even machine - locked. We had tremendous difficulty transferring them between our PS3s, even where the account and PSNID was identical.
 
I can almost promise that he will get a replacement, not repaired unit, unless SCEE handles it differently.

I have been assured it is a repair not replacement. I'm guessing because 60gb models don't exist anymore. I wish there was a ps3 slimline out or something. Would make the choice easier.
 
J-PaP, I'm sorry for your loss.

If you don't need the SACD / Playstation 2 features, you could repair that 60 GB unit and sell it as you said, and since it's a bit hard to find you could get a proper price. Then buy a new one (they runs cooler and have all the old model bugs fixed).

The SACD / Playstation 2 features are the only things to take in mind in my opinion, because:

- The use of only 2 USBs is not a problem (honestly) and even if it could be, you could buy a cheap hub (12$ maybe?). I was afraid about the 2 USBs only, at first time, but I do use a lot of accesories with my Playstation 3 and I honestly haven't used the 2 USBs at once many times (only when using the Keyboard to writte a message and the USB Stick on the other port to attach a picture to the message). I really can't think now in other situation different to that one or the use of Playstation Eye + Buzz USB Reciever for Buzz Quiz TV when my friend came with that camera to use it on my Buzz game. If you have a computer near from the Playstation 3, you simply can charge the controllers using the USB cable to a USB connection on the computer charging them when the Playstation 3 is off.

- The Memory Stick reader could be usefull if you're always trying to transfer your pictures to the Playstation 3 directly from the camera. I do it with a 4 GBs USB Stick but there's a better form: buying a Bluetooth adapter for your computer (if it doesn't comes with one already) so when you transfer your pictures from the camera to the computer you can have the Playstation 3 as a mirror, so could do a copy of that transfer through the Bluetooth net.

So, if you're not using the SACD / Playstation 2 features, it could be a great idea. In case you want to buy a new one, I strongly suggest you to buy one with small HD and upgrade it manually. I bought a 40 GBs Playstation 3 at its release time and the first week I bought a 250 GBs WESTERN DIGITAL 2'5" HDD, and even at that time the total price was cheaper than the 80 GBs unit price (plus I use the old 40 GBs HDD now on a external case for back ups of the save data).

Good luck with the Playstation 3 man !

By the way, are you the "JJPAP" from the WipEoutZone? In that case, we've been sharing the skies of WipEout HD in some matches in the past, because I remember that "JJPAP" ID but I don't know if you're the same person with a slighly different ID now.
 
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My console is a 60gb launch model so I cannot directly replace it.

Actually you should be able to get a new 60GB replacement from Sony because (depending on the country) they have stockpiles of new 60GB's kept for repairs, however the number of these extra units is finite and will eventually run out... if they have already run out then they may well have to try their best to fix your original 60Gb or give you a new 40GB.

I personally would ring them again stating that people have recieved new 60GB PS3's when thier old ones failed and just ask if they have any stockpiles of the console left.

I think there were a few guys on this forum who got new 60GB's back :).

Which is the more reliable model?

The launch 60GB and 20GB models are hands down the most reliable. The heatsink had more heatpipes and was larger. The fan was a better quality, more efficient and a quieter 19 blade fan rather than the 15 blade one fitted later. The PS3 casing also had more vents. In general the parts where higher quality and despite the heat given off from the 90nm chips Sony had an overkill cooling system to cope. With the new 40 the cooling is only adequate.

Yes there are failures on all models but the 60GB seems to fair the best. Thats not to say the other models are terrible because the PS3 has a whole has good reliability. It just depends on how much you are willing to pay for the console.

A good example is the PS2, all the early launch PS2's had excellent reliability and nearing the end of the fat PS2's life (the models fitted with IR) were really unreliable and broke usually within 2 years as a result of cost cutting.

Famine
He won't lose his trophies - they're associated with his PSNID, not his console.

Thats true but their might be one slight niggle... J-PaP, if you didnt sync your trophies to PSN before your console died the most recient trophies might not have registered.

They told me the problem was with the AC power unit and advice me to turn the power off (back side) to avoid future problems.

I agree, I never have the console on standby (red light) its always switched off either at the back or the mains.
 
Robin. and OrangeR, that sounds like the rep admitted known defects with the 60 GB unit power supplies. That or OrangeR is getting some dirty power from the wall; I recommend a UPS in that case.
 
Robin. and OrangeR, that sounds like the rep admitted known defects with the 60 GB unit power supplies. That or OrangeR is getting some dirty power from the wall; I recommend a UPS in that case.

Maybe yeah! Just be on the safe side I have it plugged into a surge protector, mines a HK model. The UK has pretty stable power so im not too worried.
 
Robin
The launch 60GB and 20GB models are hands down the most reliable. The heatsink had more heatpipes and was larger. The fan was a better quality, more efficient and a quieter 19 blade fan rather than the 15 blade one fitted later. The PS3 casing also had more vents. In general the parts where higher quality and despite the heat given off from the 90nm chips Sony had an overkill cooling system to cope. With the new 40 the cooling is only adequate.

Yes there are failures on all models but the 60GB seems to fair the best. Thats not to say the other models are terrible because the PS3 has a whole has good reliability. It just depends on how much you are willing to pay for the console.

A good example is the PS2, all the early launch PS2's had excellent reliability and nearing the end of the fat PS2's life (the models fitted with IR) were really unreliable and broke usually within 2 years as a result of cost cutting.
That's a good point mate, I'm 75% agree with you. Listen, I've a friend that buys always the 1st model of each Playstation that has been released, he has not money problems so they parents bough for him the fist model of the first Playstation on its first day and so on with the next ones. So I've seen how his Playstation works over the years, and I should confess that all of his units are on perfect status at least until a new Playstation is released (I say that because I don't if he kept the old ones, but I remember to play the Playstation on his house the day before he bought the Playstation 2, and so on with the 2 & 3). What I do is always buy the 2nd version or so, since the 2nd could be almost as strong as the 1st but with a few fixes done. Anyway, what I've experienced is that both my trick and the 1st editions of my friend, works as a charm, but I never buy a slim line model.

I understand those differences on fan & heat sinks between the new and the old model, but I see them as totally normal after the change from 90nm to 45nm architecture on Cell. It would be insane to keep the old specs of fan & heat sinks on the actual models since they use cooler media. So I honestly don't think the actual models are less reliable for that. In fact, I should confess I live in a place where we have easy high temps., maybe on summer I could be playing at almost 40º? and honestly I've never heard the sound of the fan on my Playstation 3. It's so quiet, I was surprised in fact because I'm a bit into quiet computer cases, Lian Li series. But what I strongly suggest is to not buy a slim line Playstation, because I specially remember how my Playstation 2 (old model, the big one) has been more than 50 hours on non-stop for the 24 hours GT4 La Sarthe races (I used to leave it on while I was on work in order to continue the race when I was back), and I know that many of the slim line models of the Playstation 2 couldn't support a thing like that since I remembe posts on forums on that time, with people claiming that they wouldn't be sure to do more than a 24 hours race since they saw the Playstation 2 was a bit hot.

hamstrings
Robin. and OrangeR, that sounds like the rep admitted known defects with the 60 GB unit power supplies. That or OrangeR is getting some dirty power from the wall; I recommend a UPS in that case.
I always turn off it from the back after the normal turn off through the controller, and I even have it on a UPS. In fact I've all my room over an UPS, even the turntable. I strongly suggest all of you to do this too even if you have a good power company because from time to time, if a cut appears because of the rain or something, you don't get a corrupt data on the save.

I think I started this because I'm much into games like FFs (with saves of more than 250 hours done) so this is great for avoid damages on the AC/DC converters & data while loading/saving =]

thanx to read this big book of strange english grammar :P
 
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I have mine on UPS when im out on the HD which is good because the power has cut soo many times its not funny, the power station here really sucks (once a week I would say). Also, when I wasnt under UPS protection, for no apparent reason the switch for the Wall outlets in the power box threw itself and my whole ps3 went off just like that. Funnily enough all the lights and fans were still working under another switch, dont know what caused it but I feared the ps3 might have lost data.
 
That's a good point mate, I'm 75% agree with you. Listen, I've a friend that buys always the 1st model of each Playstation that has been released, he has not money problems so they parents bough for him the fist model of the first Playstation on its first day and so on with the next ones. So I've seen how his Playstation works over the years, and I should confess that all of his units are on perfect status at least until a new Playstation is released (I say that because I don't if he kept the old ones, but I remember to play the Playstation on his house the day before he bought the Playstation 2, and so on with the 2 & 3).

I have to agree with your friends philosophy, I have a Japaniese launch and UK launch PS2, both are still in great condition and have never had a DRE or any problems. Gosh one is 9 years old! :crazy:

What I do is always buy the 2nd version or so, since the 2nd could be almost as strong as the 1st but with a few fixes done. Anyway, what I've experienced is that both my trick and the 1st editions of my friend, works as a charm, but I never buy a slim line model.

That way of thinking is also correct, for example my JPN and UK PS2 were manufactured 6 months apart and the UK one is just as good with some things improved on. You could say it was the 2nd version because they changed the PCMIA card slot to a broadband adaptor slot.

With the PS3's the JPN/ASIA/US launch 60GB console would be considered the 1st version and the EU version would be the 2nd (without the EE+GS chip). All these consoles are of equal reliability.

So you can still get a just as 'strong' a console as a launch model 1-2 years in to its life cycle.

I understand those differences on fan & heat sinks between the new and the old model, but I see them as totally normal after the change from 90nm to 45nm architecture on Cell. It would be insane to keep the old specs of fan & heat sinks on the actual models since they use cooler media.

Would it really have hurt to keep the cooling system the same? They already had all the tooling and manufacturing setup for it. Yes the new ones run cooler but thats no excuse to lower the ability to cool a system or do something petty like use a fan with less blades, for all they know you could live in the desert! I feel it was all about the cost and nothing more.

So I honestly don't think the actual models are less reliable for that.

I don't nessarily think that cooling components are the defining factor in any PS3's reliability but I do feel thats its a major contributing factor seeing as many failures seem to occur due to overheating.

thanx to read this big book of strange english grammar :P

Your english and grammar is pretty good :)👍

Robin.
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys. I have decided to repair the unit as it is the cheapest option regardless and will keep it (and take the opportunity to swap the hdd for a 320-500gb one while the ps3 has no data on it)

Actually you should be able to get a new 60GB replacement from Sony because (depending on the country) they have stockpiles of new 60GB's kept for repairs, however the number of these extra units is finite and will eventually run out... if they have already run out then they may well have to try their best to fix your original 60Gb or give you a new 40GB.

I personally would ring them again stating that people have recieved new 60GB PS3's when thier old ones failed and just ask if they have any stockpiles of the console left.

I think there were a few guys on this forum who got new 60GB's back :).

From what I have been told by sony there is no replacement option. They only will repair them. To be honest if i had the option of my 60gb repaired and a refurbished one I would pick mine repaired. I know I took good care of it (well i thought i did) and who knows what a refurbished unit has gone through regardless if it still works.

I guess they may replace models where they are unrepairable but I am sure they have massive stockpiles of main boards as that is pretty much the only 60gb part they would need stock of to replace. Everything else just about is still made I think.

I had read somewhere a while ago that refurbished units had the top cover replaced. If I receive my own unit refurbished or another I really hope the top cover is the same as the originals. I have a 40gb to use now till mine is fixed and noticed that on this model it is just printed on the cover. On the 60gb though it had chrome plastic lettering in the cover. Up close the 60gb actually looks of higher quality due to minor details like the chrome finish.
 
Just a FYI, I received my FREE 60GB refurb PS3 today. It died 2 weeks ago with the YLOD. Im more than happy with that as it was 18 months old.
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys. I have decided to repair the unit as it is the cheapest option regardless and will keep it (and take the opportunity to swap the hdd for a 320-500gb one while the ps3 has no data on it)

From what I have been told by sony there is no replacement option. They only will repair them. To be honest if i had the option of my 60gb repaired and a refurbished one I would pick mine repaired. I know I took good care of it (well i thought i did) and who knows what a refurbished unit has gone through regardless if it still works.

I guess they may replace models where they are unrepairable but I am sure they have massive stockpiles of main boards as that is pretty much the only 60gb part they would need stock of to replace. Everything else just about is still made I think.

Good luck with the repair, hope you get the console back soon 👍(although as you said you have a 40GB in the mean time) :). I totally agree that its better to get yours back (if possible) rather than another refurbished unit.

I had read somewhere a while ago that refurbished units had the top cover replaced. If I receive my own unit refurbished or another I really hope the top cover is the same as the originals. I have a 40gb to use now till mine is fixed and noticed that on this model it is just printed on the cover. On the 60gb though it had chrome plastic lettering in the cover. Up close the 60gb actually looks of higher quality due to minor details like the chrome finish.

Yeah I know, its just printed on with some matt silver paint compared to the original which had laser cut crome lettering inset in the cover... also the drive area is now matt silver and no longer chrome, I don't think they even make those case parts anymore. It really doesnt look as 'polished' now as it did originally... I mean seriously how much could they have saved painting the drive slot matt instead of chrome! :dunce:

As for the cover you get back I have no idea! I think if its in good condition they will give you your own back. Actually you could include a note or something when you return it asking if they could use the original.

Robin.
 
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It was fairly much spotless apart from some swirls. I do some minor detailing so I've learned even how to clean up plastic with some marks on it. Might call them and request the cover isn't swapped if its not another chrome finish one.
 
I just got mine returned 2 days ago from a refurb done by Sony Aus.
Im pretty sure I actually got a new (old Stock) 60gb, unless the put a whole new case on it which im pretty sure they wouldnt.

Mate, I also had mine play up, sent it back to Sony for a maximum cost of $315 regardless of what it took to fix. If they couldnt fix it they would replace it.
I had no problem other than it taking a little longer than the 10 working days - although that could be attributed to the amount of public holidays.

Anyway I hope you get it back good as new.

Cheers
BroncosXR8
 
I took a photo of the serial number to check when i get mine back just to see.

That's what I did to mine!

When my repaired PS3 got back I noticed that the serial number was the same, only miss match was the bottom cover. Mine said it was manufactured in march and when it came back it was from april. I guess the repair team has so many pieces that they mix some of them. Also, my front cover had some minor extra scratches, free of charge! :dopey: I guess "real PS3 have scars." ;)
 

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