REQ: 88c for tsukuba wet(hard)

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Inkil

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Try as I might I cannot find anything to help me...

I am trying to finish off the Special Course Tsukuba Wet (hard) track so I can break 50%, the problem I am running into is my opponent cars... all are in a 5 to 10 aspec point range, but they seem to run away from me, and corner better than my versions of the cars...

I am using the Minolta 88C cause its my best and favorite car, and the settings are as follows... Any advice for this is appreciated... flames will be ignored...

Tires: R3/R3
NOS: 70
Turbo: 4
BC: 10/8
SR: 17.0/15.0
RH: 60mm/60mm
bound: 6/6
rebound: 6/4
camber: 1.0/0.5
toe: -1/1
stabilizer: 5/3
Auto: 16
Final: 3.430
oversteer: 9
understeer: 9
tcs: 6
DF: 63/88
IT: 20
LA: 55
LD: 15

I have spent the last 5 hours trying to get this car right... please, any help would be appreciated.

Ink.
 
I suggest you switch to another set and try the default setting, try it that way... and then explain the problem with the car that you would like corrected.

One strategy I use in "Hard" mode of the Special races is getting ahead of the opponent car and hit the brakes. Most of the stages are narrow so you can block them entirely. Brake until you're stopped and when they try to pass, they'll hit you... then slowly back up.

As soon as they start to backup, you take off... make sure to rev up with your brakes on first for a better take off. Any time he's about to pass you or starts getting close, look for an opportunity to stop him again... or if you're behind him, speed into a turn and slam him. Computers suck at correcting their orientation and if you do it right, you should be able to pull ahead, even with the penalty.
 
emtiph
I suggest you switch to another set and try the default setting, try it that way... and then explain the problem with the car that you would like corrected.

One strategy I use in "Hard" mode of the Special races is getting ahead of the opponent car and hit the brakes. Most of the stages are narrow so you can block them entirely. Brake until you're stopped and when they try to pass, they'll hit you... then slowly back up.

As soon as they start to backup, you take off... make sure to rev up with your brakes on first for a better take off. Any time he's about to pass you or starts getting close, look for an opportunity to stop him again... or if you're behind him, speed into a turn and slam him. Computers suck at correcting their orientation and if you do it right, you should be able to pull ahead, even with the penalty.
Click to expand...

I will have to try the tips... the problem with the car is acceleration, heavy understeer, and acceleration...

whats happening, is by the time I get caught up, I cant slow down enough to make the turn, when I am slow enough to make the turn, the car still slides nose first to the outside, and I practically have to come to a complete stop to get the nose around. couple that with rotten acceleration and the opponent literally runs away from me.

I will try the stock settings and see what I get, then move things towards thier current settings... but just so frustrated...

Ink
 
Your brake settings are too high. Lower them until you seem to get better stopping distance 👍
 
ok here is what i do . change ur gear ratio's so it revs faster . than on the first coner ramb the fak out of the lead car but make sure u get in front of it as you both go off the track u will get a 5 second penlty from it . i have done this and end up like 8 seconds in front of the other car . oh yeh use R4 tyres to . 💡 👍
 
I won tsukuba wet race with Viper Team Oreca.


What u have to do is: Put a Super Soft RAcing Tires; Put your Limited Slip at maximun - 60 - to avoid lost of traction; Put your gears extremely close.

Also make your car overster! Viper does that easily, thats why i won the 787b!

And most important, learn the art of Light Drift, thats the key to win.



Thanks!
 
Try a brake setting of 9 front and 18 rear. I have used that on all my cars don't use 100% braking force, i used to do that but now i'm learning 50% will get you slowed.
 
Ran it last night with a stock Pitworks Z (JGTC) turned off ASM's, brakes 3 front and 5 rear, LSD 20/40/17. The problem with running extremely powerful cars in these wet races is wheelspin. Drop down a few car classes to something in the 400-500 Hp range. I won with the Z by 5 seconds with a handfull of blips, not catastophies, just blips. Won the normal with a Elise 111R with nothing but LSD.
 
icemanshooter23
Your brake settings are too high. Lower them until you seem to get better stopping distance 👍
Click to expand...

Quite agree with this, but make sure you keep the bias towards the front, helps to cut down on instability under braking, particularly on a wet track.

Also try setting the front stabiliser softer than the rear, this will help cut down on some of that understeer, however watch going to soft as you have a low rideheight and too soft a setting may cause you problems. You will need to have a play with this. I would suggest starting with a 5/5 and either soften the front or harden the rear, the overall effect of reducing understeer is the same, but one may suit your driving better than the other.

An increase in camber would also help ensure that you have more of the tyres contact patch in use when cornering.

Finally as the track in not high speed, I would suggest you lose the toe in and maybe even add a touch of toe out, it will make the car slightly unstable at high speed, but given the track it should not be a problem. The toe out should help with the initial turn in when cornering. I would also lose the toe on the rear totally, but then I rarely find any rear toe is needed.

A lot I know, but hopefully it will help, and good luck.
 
Scaff
An increase in camber would also help ensure that you have more of the tyres contact patch in use when cornering
Click to expand...

in wet conditions, you have less body roll due to less lateral grip. The ideal camber in wet conditions is less then in dry.
 
Greyout
in wet conditions, you have less body roll due to less lateral grip. The ideal camber in wet conditions is less then in dry.
Click to expand...

Good point Greyout, my bad.
 
I beat this course with the Jaguar race car with max horsepower tune shop help. The key was to take out the car ahead of you on the deep turn, I think the one with the tire. If you nail him right as he's turning on high speed, he will go off the way into the dirt and turn the other way. You'll get the 5 second penalty, but if you stay near the tack and take off, you'll get a big lead - almost 10 seconds. He has a hard time getting around and out of that dirt. I won by 5 seconds.
 
I was having trouble using that car too...I used the Forumal GT and made a total jerk out of the computer..If you wanna use the minolta, save the NOS for the end and slow down alot earlier than you are:)

Dan
 
I beat this with the Impreza Road Going LM, fully tuned (with NOS). The all wheel drive really helps in the rain. I'm pretty sure I left the settings as-is. And I didn't have to 'ram' the other guy.
 
I beat this track with the Gran Tourismo F1 with stock tuning lol. it was very very easy.

There is no real key to it. It simply kicks butt. HOWEVER, keep in mind that an F1 needs air flowing over it's wings to keep getting that great downforce. With the F1 I could corner almost the same as a GT car in the dry.

I haven't tried the Formula GT event yet. In the real world F1 is run wet or dry, unless they changed it. It's been a while since I actually followed a season. For that reason it made sense to me to use the F1 for all the wet races in GT3. I figured if it worked in GT3 why not GT4??

Beyond the real world comparison, it just plain looks COOL in the rain.
 
you really dont need that good of a car to win this race as someone stated above. I forget what I used (I think one of the subaru rally cars I won from other rally races, stock with nos) but it was underpowered compared to the car I raced, and you just have to block him on the long back straight if hes on your back bumper still. easy win on the first try.
 
I agree with 194gvan. I just did it with the Pagani Zonda (200 pt race) that you get from mission 24. At one point I was 2 seconds ahead but had a couple of blips on the last lap and finished .6 sec ahead. It is all in the braking.
 
Tire wear is off, so R5 Racing Super Soft tires on virtually any sort of race car will win. Turn the TCS way up and it gets even easier.
 
Use the Audi Nuvolari Quattro tuned to 952 PS and R5 tires. I used autoset 5 for the transmission.

Using a 4WD is the key to this race, other cars will do also work. the race cars just slide around in the rain......
 
Inkil
Try as I might I cannot find anything to help me...

I am trying to finish off the Special Course Tsukuba Wet (hard) track so I can break 50%, the problem I am running into is my opponent cars... all are in a 5 to 10 aspec point range, but they seem to run away from me, and corner better than my versions of the cars...

I am using the Minolta 88C cause its my best and favorite car, and the settings are as follows... Any advice for this is appreciated... flames will be ignored...


Turbo: 4

I have spent the last 5 hours trying to get this car right... please, any help would be appreciated.

Ink.
Click to expand...

There's your problem, the turbo. You dont need a stage 4 turbo for this race. Too much lag etc...
Trust me, get a stage 1 or 2 turbo, or dont use a turbo. Thats probably another reason as to why your getting crappy acceleration.
 

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