Restoring chassis rigidity

  • Thread starter Thread starter Millertime
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Millertime

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PengFu
So its pretty obvious when you're supposed to restore the engine but, is there a more obvious way to tell when you need to restore rigidity besides slight changes in handling.(because there is a lot more than just the chassis being worn out that can effect handling, it's much less obvious) Are there any real glaring things that you will notice when its time to do this?
 
I didn't think this was that this was that much of a dumb question. but lets give this a try...

BUMP...
 
I have a few cars with over 100,000 kms on them and no restoration, and I cant tell the difference between them and a new car. I usually just do the chassis restoration every 10,000 kms to be safe.
 
Bigger question to me is: is it necessary to do this on cars from the UCD as well (directly after buying them)?

Because that would be a significant cost-factor seeing how most of my really interesting cars come from the UCD and not from the Premium dealership.
 
Millertime
I didn't think this was that this was that much of a dumb question. but lets give this a try...

BUMP...
Click to expand...

First of all bumping posts will get you a visit from the moderators.
Second, I have cars with near 100,000km and they have not had the chassis restored. No need for me yet.
 
I rebuild all the cars from the ground up, that I get from the UCD.
If I plan on driving them anyway.
Others I buy just to have, I may drive those once or twice. Those car get a oil change and wash, thats it.
 
My bad, I didn't realize that was taboo. Just looking for some help. In the future should I just start a new thread?

Also, seeing as u can't have more than 20 mil. cr. anyways its not such a bad idea to do with all used cars. Thats what i do if i plan on using them that is.
 
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I don't know if my brain is playing tricks on me but I did a chassis restoration on my FGT after several thousand km's, and I saw a difference afterwards : the car was stiffer, more difficult to turn (in tight corners) but seemed to handle better during high speed turns... I will not do it again though, since the price is too high for what you get in return (500.000 cr on the FGT).
 
Millertime
My bad, I didn't realize that was taboo.
Click to expand...

I don't mean to be all high horse and such, but GT Planet is one of the strictest forums I've ever seen, the moderators really don't like people violating the AUP (acceptable use policy). Things like poor spelling and grammar, use of text speak, posting threads that already exist (this one is an example of that), bumping, huge pictures in posts usually get comments from moderators. Even 'in before the lock' posts are frowned upon (see the stickied thread in the GT5 forum, Daan threatened bans for this).

But yeah, like I said, I'm just letting you know is all.

The chassis rigidity makes a huge, huge difference. I've never done it on my ZR1 RM but I have done around 10,000 miles, and it handles like a brick on ice now whereas before it was pretty good. You can even see the difference, I took a photo of my Z06 RM and compared it to an identical one of my knackered ZR1 RM, and you can see the front tyres have noticable camber even though I never set any.
 
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