RUF Set-Ups

G

GramNitrous

38
I have just spent 48 hours struggling with a new RUF RGT, trying to make the damn thing handle/race. I finally won, so i thought that i'd share my set-up with you guys just in case someone else is struggling with an RGT as well. Then i thought that i'll just leave this thread open to anyone with a set-up for a any RUF.

Settings for a new RUF RGT.

Problem: The standard car set-up doesn’t handle, it Understeers and slides out in bends on the Standard S3 tyres.

Objective: To not raise the power of the standard car very much, whilst being able to adjust everything else, making the car handle on the S3 tyres.

Parts Fitted:
Exhaust: Semi Racing Pipe [Comes as Standard].
Brakes: Racing Pads and Brake Balance Controller.
Engine: Only NOS, and an Oil Change after test mileage to raise the power to 398/404BHP.
Transmission: Fully Customised Service and a Triple Plate Clutch.
Turbo: Nothing.
Suspension: Fully Customised Service.
Tyres: Sports Soft S3 [Comes as Standard].
Others: Weight reduction Stage’s 1, 2 & 3 [1330Kg down to 1130Kg].

Adjusted Settings:
Suspension:_____________Front___Rear
Spring Rate:______________8.8____9.9
Ride Height:_____________76_____85
Damper [Bound Side]:______8______9
Damper [Rebound Side]:____7______8
Camber Angle:____________3.0____2.0
Toe Angle:_______________0______0
Stabiliser:_______________4______4
Transmission:
Final:_____________________3.440
Auto Set:_________________12 [Midfield]
Brakes:__________________15____15
Driving Aids: ASM: Oversteer 0, ASM: Understeer 0, TCS 3.
Weight:
Ballast:_______________[+] 40 [Kg].
Balance:________________-50 [All Ballast moved to the front].

Total car weight is now 1170Kg the same as Weight Stage 2, but now with 40Kg Ballast over the front wheels to provide Steering Grip.

This set-up did 1:19:763 on Midfield, but don’t forget it did it on S3 tyres!
Later just add Racing tyres to your taste and off you go.
Oh and just move the auto set to 11 on a shorter course, or to 13 on a much longer course than Midfield.
This set-up wins the Pro Hall Boxer Spirit.

I hope this helps someone having trouble making a RUF handle in GT4.
Cheers,
Gram.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EDIT:

Thanks to 63AvantiR3's advice on how dampers should be set-up, the above damper settings have now been further developed. And the car handles MUCH better still, than with the above damper settings.

They should now be:

Damper Bound__________3______4
Damper Rebound________6______8
 
GramNitrous
(edited)
Weight:
Ballast:_______________[+] 40 [Kg].
Balance:________________-50 [All Ballast moved to the front].

I hope this helps someone having trouble making a RUF handle in GT4.
Cheers,
Gram.
Click to expand...
Good setup to know 👍

I will throw in some advice about the '86 RUF BTR; another RR platform. I added 27 kilograms (about 60 pounds) to a setting of -45 (close to the extreme front of the car) and the BTR felt less problematic in corners. Before, the car liked to understeer into snap-oversteer. With this added 60 pounds in the nose, the car feels a lot more neutral and is a lot easier to turn.

Semi-Racing Exhaust, Sports Chip, Stage 2 Turbo Kit, Port & Polish, Engine Balancing, Brakes and Brake Controller, Racing Suspension, Racing Transmission, Racing Flywheel, Triple Plate Clutch, Stage 3 Weight Removal, Rollcage, and 1.5 way Limited-Slip. Overall the car has 466 HP (459HP & 426TQ listed on the power chart).

Springs: 11.7 / 13.6
Ride Height: 100 / 100
Shock Bound: 3 / 2
Shock Rebound: 9 / 6
Camber: 2.0 / 1.0
Toe: 0 / 0
Stabilizers: 5 / 5

ASM 3 and 3
TCS 4
Brakes: 7 / 5 (With this setup, "floor" the pedal and do all your braking in a straight line. You won't be disappointed).
Weight: 27 kilograms added at a setting of -45 (as mentioned above).
Downforce: 30 / 30

This is only a preliminary setup, but it works great so far. Feel free to do some fine tuning. For instance- adjusting the stabilizers to 4 / 5 or 5 / 4 can induce some oversteer or understeer to your liking. I drove around Sears Point with this setup and was doing tuning only to make the car handle better with super sticky tires as a control group. One warning I've already had experience with. If you lower the car a lot more, it rides like crap. The car bounces everywhere. If it were real life, I would say it felt like the car was riding on its bump stops. I am not sure if Sony and P.D. were real enough to factor that into the game though; I'm kindof leery about their claim of *cough* "Real Driving Simulator" *cough*

*Editing*
Since this is a "works in progress" I figured I would add more suggestions / settings to try.
Spring Rate: 11.0 / 12.8 (stock race suspension settings)
Ride Height: 100 / 100
Shock Bound: 2 / 3
Shock Rebound: 6 / 9
Camber: 3.0 / 1.5
Toe: 0 / 0 (stock setting)
Stabilizers: 5 / 5 (stock setting)

ASM 3 and 3 (same as before)
TCS 4 (same)
Brakes 7 / 5 (same)
Weight 27 kilos in a setting of -45 (same)
Downforce: 30 / 27 (slightly more aero grip in the front)

Transmission- That's up to you since it's track specific. I do my testing at Sears Point which is going to differ from New York, Hong Kong, Nürburgring, et cetera.
 
At some point I hope I'll be able to contribute to this thread.

As a RUF (Porsche) fan, I just had to pick one up and flog it about. The snap oversteer (this is the sudden spinout, yes?) can be nasty, and I may have made it worse by lightening the car(s) fully. I abused the Boxer Sport series in the Professional races (not very sporting of me, really) with the '86 RUF and now have the Yellow Bird to play with as well. I have yet to add anything to either car beyond the weight reduction, as I wanted to get driving impressions before making the car totally undrivable. :)

I have a Lotus Espirit 87 HC that actually became easier to drive with all the assists turned off, which is how I'm driving the RUFs right now. Have you driven them this way with anything like decent results?

Thanks for the info.

K:-)
 
I have noticed the Yellow Bird and the RGT drive great with out any suspension tuning. I just love making my cars faster, So I just had to slap on the best parts though :)



Can you make any FULLY MODDED setups, with DRIVING AIDS?
 
yours is the first setup ive seen that looks as if some logic went into figuring out. i havent driven the car, but your damper settings look similar to what i use on most cars. avantis shock settigs onthe other hand, hahaha! how do you come up with something like that? guess and check doesnt work for dampers very well when youre obviously clueless. i love it.
 
63AvantiR3
Good setup to know 👍

I will throw in some advice about the '86 RUF BTR; another RR platform. I added 27 kilograms (about 60 pounds) to a setting of -45 (close to the extreme front of the car) and the BTR felt less problematic in corners. Before, the car liked to understeer into snap-oversteer. With this added 60 pounds in the nose, the car feels a lot more neutral and is a lot easier to turn.

Semi-Racing Exhaust, Sports Chip, Stage 2 Turbo Kit, Port & Polish, Engine Balancing, Brakes and Brake Controller, Racing Suspension, Racing Transmission, Racing Flywheel, Triple Plate Clutch, Stage 3 Weight Removal, Rollcage, and 1.5 way Limited-Slip. Overall the car has 466 HP (459HP & 426TQ listed on the power chart).

Springs: 11.7 / 13.6
Ride Height: 100 / 100
Shock Bound: 3 / 2
Shock Rebound: 9 / 6
Camber: 2.0 / 1.0
Toe: 0 / 0
Stabilizers: 5 / 5

ASM 3 and 3
TCS 4
Brakes: 7 / 5 (With this setup, "floor" the pedal and do all your braking in a straight line. You won't be disappointed).
Weight: 27 kilograms added at a setting of -45 (as mentioned above).

This is only a preliminary setup, but it works great so far. Feel free to do some fine tuning. For instance- adjusting the stabilizers to 4 / 5 or 5 / 4 can induce some oversteer or understeer to your liking. I drove around Sears Point with this setup and was doing tuning only to make the car handle better with super sticky tires as a control group. One warning I've already had experience with. If you lower the car a lot more, it rides like crap. The car bounces everywhere. If it were real life, I would say it felt like the car was riding on its bump stops. I am not sure if Sony and P.D. were real enough to factor that into the game though; I'm kindof leery about their claim of *cough* "Real Driving Simulator" *cough*
Click to expand...

Thanks 63AvantiR3,

for your BTR set up, and for your confirmation that it's a 'get some weight in the nose' thing, making RR cars handle.

Hi Keith S,

i don't think that weight reduction will hurt the handling on a RUF, so much as it's the weight balance that seems to play the most important part. Yes i do drive with the driving assists off and get better results without them, exept for just a little Traction control, as do a lot of other guy's here. BUT, for me, this is always with suspension tuning to my taste. A work in constant progress.

Hi Maxx,

yes you can do set-ups that include ASM and TCS, but at some stage, naturaly, the ASM and the TCS will step in and have an effect as the car gets out of shape or losses traction. F1 uses traction control, so a small amount of TCS is good enough for me! But ASM [for me] is not much use, if you actually sometimes want the car out of shape, such as when drifting [especially when rallying]. My particular preference is for some mild powered oversteer, so no ASM.

LedaM3

*Revised*

Well my logic behind my damper settings goes like this:
Lower the spring rate [0.5KG] because of weight reduction.
Damper Bound to about one third to one half of the spring value.
Damper Rebound to double the bound value.

*Revised*

HTH,
Cheers,
Gram.
 
I think the problem with most people and the RUFs is the fact they are porsches (their chassis), they have the bulk of thier weight at the rear, its not going to handle like a FF or a FR because thats not what it is. I think the old porsche adage went "into a corner slow, out fast" or something along them lines.
 
LedaM3
(edited) avantis shock settigs on the other hand, hahaha! how do you come up with something like that? guess and check doesnt work for dampers very well when youre obviously clueless. i love it.
Click to expand...
I'm not clueless. Though I don't know what you are laughing at? My shock settings work just fine. If you were to read the scrolling text in the game you would understand why I set them up like that. If you're not patient enough to fire up the game and read, here it is in black and beige/tan in this case:

"Shock Absorber Damping Force (Bound): This adjusts the strength of the shock absorbers as they compress (contract side). If the shock absorbers are too strong when the suspension is compressed, the suspension will be too rigid and the car will bounce."
"Shock Absorber Damping Force (Rebound): This adjusts the strength of the shock absorbers as they expand. It is possible to make this much stronger than the contract side. As a rough guide, this should be 2 to 4 times stronger than the contract side."

The bounding of the shock absorber needs to have some give in it. It's the rebound that you want to have be firm. My settings fall into that "2-4 times stronger" range. 3 to 9 is 3 times stronger. 2 to 6 is also 3 times stronger. I also sometimes use 4 / 8 and 3 / 6. Those are two times stronger, are they not? Try going by the game's suggestion once in awhile.

There are also warnings about the ride height ... Or did you miss those too?
 
wow thanks for all the help. I have always loved the RGT but could never get it to handel correctly. I will try these setups in the morning. :)
 
63AvantiR3
***Edit***"Shock Absorber Damping Force (Bound): This adjusts the strength of the shock absorbers as they compress (contract side). If the shock absorbers are too strong when the suspension is compressed, the suspension will be too rigid and the car will bounce."
"Shock Absorber Damping Force (Rebound): This adjusts the strength of hte shock absorbers as they expand. It is possible to make this much stronger than the contract side. As a rough guide, this should be 2 to 4 times stronger than the contract side."

The bounding of the shock absorber needs to have some give in it. It's the rebound that you want to have be firm. My settings fall into that "2-4 times stronger" range. 3 to 9 is 3 times stronger. 2 to 6 is also 3 times stronger. I also sometimes use 4 / 8 and 3 / 6. Those are two times stronger, are they not? Try going by the game's suggestion once in awhile.

***Edit***
Click to expand...

You are exactly right,

i've just been offline to check the Damper relationship on the RGT, and the car works even better now.

So i'd like to say a big public "Thank you" for helping me impove the set-up i originally posted.

Cheers,
Gram.
 
GramNitrous
You are exactly right,

i've just been offline to check the Damper relationship on the RGT, and the car works even better now.

So i'd like to say a big public "Thank you" for helping me impove the set-up i originally posted.

Cheers,
Gram.
Click to expand...
No problem, it's what forums are for. Don't thank me, thank P.D. for putting that information in the game; I'm just the messenger. I'm a member of this forum, a few other G.T. forums, NASA pro racing, SCCA, the VWVortex and Corvetteforum.com. In every case I find helpful information that I need as well as share information I know with other people when they have a question.
 
thanks for editing my post gtplanet :cheers:

yeah avanti, i guess i need to read the scrolling text in the game to figure out shock settings. never thought of that. :odd:
 
What about the '96 CTR2? For my big surprise, it understeers often. No, the rear doesn't want to break out, the nose is sliding off the ideal curve! What's the cause of UNDERsteer in a 500HP RR car?

I tested the '80s Rufs in arcade mode, and they drove like I expected: tailhappy cars, big fun to drive. I've bought the CTR2 for Supercar Championship, but it was a wrong choice. That damn thing behaves like a 500bhp Civic. :-/ No slides, just UNDERsteer.
 
jarre
I agree, especially the CTR2 has really poor handling and no brakes! :ouch:
Click to expand...

I don't agree, sorry, lol. I really like the ctr2, i liked it in gt3 too. i use it in most things i compete in, with 899hp it fine. i used the set up for the ruf at the top of this page, but with the proper bound settings as in later suggested.

but i think this is an underated car to use.
 
(Edited)
RedRiot
What about the '96 CTR2? ... it understeers often. ... the nose is sliding off the ideal curve! What's the cause of UNDERsteer in a 500HP RR car?

... I've bought the CTR2 for Supercar Championship, but it was a wrong choice. ... :-/ No slides, just UNDERsteer.
Click to expand...
I believe the CTR2 is an AWD model RUF; in which case :yuck:
I hate AWD for driving on pavement. Any time you start asking one set of wheels to do more than one task (either power OR steering- NOT both) it messes up the balance of a car.
To dial out understeer in th CTR2 (not having tested this myself) start by pulling the differential bias down so the front gets 10% of the power and the rear gets 90%. From there you can soften the front swaybar or stiffen the rear (two approaches to attain the same effect), if you notice this happening "at speed" you can manipulate your aero-grip (downforce settings). Brake bias could also help to rotate the car, or altering the toe settings (toe in = stability / toe out = more eager to corner) would be another approach.
As with the shocks, read what the game says at the bottom in terms of description. For instance, they tell you that altering the toe in the rear has a greater effect over the whole car than the toe settings in front.
 
I'll try your tips, at first the differential bias! I played around with the suspension, softening the front, stiffening the back, but the understeer remained, especially at accelerating out of curves.

The only result was, that the car became very sensitive to sudden direction changes, quick steering often ended in uncontrollable spins.

I also made the rear brakes stronger, it has some positive effects, but the handling during acceleration stayed poor.

I'm really curious that the real life AWD Rufs really has a handling like this, but I doubt it. In GT4 the CTR2 has a more evil handling like the '86 BTR. It is the worse car. From '86 to '96 they made their cars handle worse? In this case, Ruf wouldn't be the most famous Porsche tuner-builder of the world...

Anyway, thanx for the help, I try the differential setup!
(don't mistake me, I love GT4, and most of the cars feel extremely realistic, the CTR2 seems to be an exception.)
 
I'm really curious that the real life AWD Rufs really has a handling like this, but I doubt it. In GT4 the CTR2 has a more evil handling like the '86 BTR. It is the worse car. From '86 to '96 they made their cars handle worse? In this case, Ruf wouldn't be the most famous Porsche tuner-builder of the world...


Your not perhaps just going a bit too fast are you?, i had the 4WD RUF in GT 3 and it was one of my best cars, but i had to treat it nicely, also the driving aids on all the cars are worse for the handling, with the exception of a little traction control on the more outrageously powerful cars.... what the other guy said is true, you should move almost all the power to the back, i cant remember what else i did with mine, but it was a fantastic car.... i have yet to get one in gt4, but i will race it a lot and try to post some of my settings if i can get them right again
 
I understand that when you do drive cars you oversteer and stuff may occur, however i dont think that it has much to do with having the correct upgrades installed.

Obviosuly any car that gets upgraded can become unstable simply because it goes faster than originally tuned.

What you will find is that your probably pushing these cars once they are maxed out to hard causing oversteer etc.

Try;-

Slowing down much more when taking corners and not red-lining it on long straights!

Think of it as if you were actually driving, you wouldn't kick the arse out of it around bends n ****.

Also,

I probably wouldn't have bought the RUF model, i'm sure you bought the Boxter, which is the slowest RUF around. The bad boy is the end car in the RUF legends.

Kev.
 
DEFINETELY AMAZING SET UP :D

CONGRATULATIONS 👍

For my taste I have added little changes that I recommend to try to see if you like them.-

CAMBER: 3.0/2.0
Toe: -1/0
Stabilizers: 5/4

Hope you like it this way.-

Tutin

:dopey: PORSCHE IS THE BEST, F * * K THE REST.............................. :dunce:



63AvantiR3
Good setup to know 👍

I will throw in some advice about the '86 RUF BTR; another RR platform. I added 27 kilograms (about 60 pounds) to a setting of -45 (close to the extreme front of the car) and the BTR felt less problematic in corners. Before, the car liked to understeer into snap-oversteer. With this added 60 pounds in the nose, the car feels a lot more neutral and is a lot easier to turn.

Semi-Racing Exhaust, Sports Chip, Stage 2 Turbo Kit, Port & Polish, Engine Balancing, Brakes and Brake Controller, Racing Suspension, Racing Transmission, Racing Flywheel, Triple Plate Clutch, Stage 3 Weight Removal, Rollcage, and 1.5 way Limited-Slip. Overall the car has 466 HP (459HP & 426TQ listed on the power chart).

Springs: 11.7 / 13.6
Ride Height: 100 / 100
Shock Bound: 3 / 2
Shock Rebound: 9 / 6
Camber: 2.0 / 1.0
Toe: 0 / 0
Stabilizers: 5 / 5

ASM 3 and 3
TCS 4
Brakes: 7 / 5 (With this setup, "floor" the pedal and do all your braking in a straight line. You won't be disappointed).
Weight: 27 kilograms added at a setting of -45 (as mentioned above).
Downforce: 30 / 30

This is only a preliminary setup, but it works great so far. Feel free to do some fine tuning. For instance- adjusting the stabilizers to 4 / 5 or 5 / 4 can induce some oversteer or understeer to your liking. I drove around Sears Point with this setup and was doing tuning only to make the car handle better with super sticky tires as a control group. One warning I've already had experience with. If you lower the car a lot more, it rides like crap. The car bounces everywhere. If it were real life, I would say it felt like the car was riding on its bump stops. I am not sure if Sony and P.D. were real enough to factor that into the game though; I'm kindof leery about their claim of *cough* "Real Driving Simulator" *cough*

*Editing*
Since this is a "works in progress" I figured I would add more suggestions / settings to try.
Spring Rate: 11.0 / 12.8 (stock race suspension settings)
Ride Height: 100 / 100
Shock Bound: 2 / 3
Shock Rebound: 6 / 9
Camber: 3.0 / 1.5
Toe: 0 / 0 (stock setting)
Stabilizers: 5 / 5 (stock setting)

ASM 3 and 3 (same as before)
TCS 4 (same)
Brakes 7 / 5 (same)
Weight 27 kilos in a setting of -45 (same)
Downforce: 30 / 27 (slightly more aero grip in the front)

Transmission- That's up to you since it's track specific. I do my testing at Sears Point which is going to differ from New York, Hong Kong, Nürburgring, et cetera.
Click to expand...
 
Finally got around to testing the settings GramNitrous and Avanti provided with very positive results on the Yellow Bird. I'll have to poke further at the NA version of GT4 to see what the units are in the ballast section. At first glance it wasn't readily apparent if they were in kgs or not (the car weights are, ironically in this metric-challenged country.)

Thank you all for the insights.

I drive an '83 911SC as my daily, but never like I get to drive these beasts, so it's nice to have help in making the GT4 cars maximum fun!

~Keith
 
Keith S
(Edited)I'll have to poke further at the NA version of GT4 to see what the units are in the ballast section. At first glance it wasn't readily apparent if they were in kgs or not (the car weights are, ironically in this metric-challenged country.)
Thank you all for the insights.
~Keith
Click to expand...
The ballast section of the North American version is also in kilograms. To figure out how much weight I want to place in a car, I convert everything to pounds first using a program called 'convert.' If you don't have it, you can get it at the following URL- http://www.joshmadison.com/software/
 
haven't tried the settings given, but right now with asm and tcs off, going onto the kerb to brake is a big no no. Can't seem to do this with the RUF (BTR) but its more forgiving with an FF or FR car. 1 wheel on the kerb and the RUF's rear just kicks out. [ds2 used]

with my current settings (can't remember the specs, standard tyres), i've got 1:21.2 for deep forest normal (not using the concrete paving at turn 4). it's based on a gt3 rear-drive/rear engined RUF. i got off the net.
 
Well, after further experimentation, albeit scattered over the last month thus not very focused, I'd have to say that my general impression of high-powered GT4 cars is that at a certain point there isn't much you can do to save them with less than racing tires. Which, unfortunately, excludes you from a lot of early races. So, much of it boils down to my technique (or lack thereof.)

The RUF Yellowbird is a lot of fun with Gram and Avanti's settings. It's fabulous with racing tires AND the aforementioned settings. Incredibly quick, with great top speed. With standard tires it's much more work for me (and requires careful tire management.)

Thanks again, all!

~Keith
 
This is my setup for the '86 RUF BTR. These are with the sports soft (S3) tires, so I tried to dial out as much of the understeer I could.

Exhaust : Racing
Racing Chip : Sports

Tire Type : Sport
Front : soft (S3)
Rear : soft (S3)

Nitrous : Equip (70 shot)

Turbine Kit : Stage 2

Intercooler : Racing

Brakes : Racing
Brake Controller : Not equipped

Suspension : Racing
Spring Rate : Front 10.0 / Rear 12.0
Ride Height : Front 95 / Rear 105
Shock (Bound) : Front 3 / Rear 4
Shock (Rebound) : Front 6 / Rear 8
Camber Angle : Front 3.0 / Rear 0.5
Toe Angle : Front -1 / Rear 0
Stabilizers : Front 3 / Rear 4

Transmission : Full Customize
Gears : I'll let you decide

Clutch : Triple Plate
Flywheel : Racing

Driving Aids :
ASM (Oversteer) : 0
ASM (Understeer) : 0
TCS Controller : 5

Limited-Slip : Full Customize
Initial Torque : 30
Acceleration : 10
Deceleration : 10

The exhaust, chip, turbo, and intercooler settings will land you around 507HP, which is tolerable for the S3 tires. It drives very well for me. If you increase the HP anymore than this, I highly recommend switching to Racing medium (R3) tires.

Hope these help someone out.
 
Ruf CTR "Yellow Bird" 596KW (wheels) 797KW (flywheel)

All professional parts (fully customisable) including all engine parts/weight/gearing/suspention, N2O optional

This setup will work for any tyre type (of couse the better tyre, better grip)

Turn off all driving aids....remove all ballast

.....................FRONT...REAR.........................

Brake Control = 24 24
Spring Rate = 13.9 10.7
Ride Height = 79 89
Bound = 5 6
Rebound = 6 7
Camber = 4.8 0.9
Toe = 2 0
Stabiliser = 7 7

LSD Initial = 60
LSD Acc = 5
LSD Dec = 57

1st 2.176
2nd 1.564
3rd 1.190
4th 0.947
5th 0.788
6th 0.621
Fin 3.111

onesusboy@hotmail.com
 
Does anyone have any drag race setups for RUFs? I figure that the understeer inherited in many of the RUFs wouldn't be a problem in a straight-line contest. Plus the shear amount of power these things can put out...!

I'm a n00b insofar as drag race setups, but here's mine for what it may be worth:

Racing Exhaust
R5 tires
Nitrous @ 50
Turbo Stage 4

SR- 11.4 / 7.2
RH- 75 / 135
Bound- 10 / 10
Rebound- 10 / 1
Camber- 0 / 0
Toe- 0 / 0
Stabs- 7 / 7

Tranny
Final @ 3.444
Auto @ 13 (using 2nd gear first)

TCS @ 3
 
Hey Tutin..nice changes...it works greatly..!!!

Remember>>"THERES NO SUBSTITUDE" even when is a Ruf...(Posche platform)

The btr is a great car...with the rigth settings is a great car with a geat acceleration!
 

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