Slot car racing

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GTP_smudgyeboy
My Ninco Le Mans Track
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My local club
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Club web site I built click http://www.ttracing.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/molesey.htm


It's more fun than your bog standard Scalextric set!

Phil
 
Wow, I just found and fixed my old scalextric micro and bought a 5240 rpm engine for it, the wheels truggle to put the power down though :(
 
Your track looks amazing! How did you make the scenery (particularly the rocks)?

EDIT: Checked out your website. Real cool stuff.
 
I never understood slot car racing, you can't pass really... I mean, your all going the same speed... lol sorry
 
Your right....you don't understand it. Most of the time you can't just hold the trigger down and go because you'd go flying off the track in a sharp corner. On a good set up you would be on and off the gas all the time.
 
That is true... I remember when i was wee young always getting pissed cause i never understood why that happend to me... haha so i thought i had to go faster...
 
(Could've posted here almost more than one year ago, but I was too lazy to find a 5-year old thread, and I don't feel the need to, but now there is such necessity though, as you'll see below.)

I have a Scalextric Digital set, bought quite a few years ago. It comes with 3 licensed GT cars, a lot of track pieces which have a length of 676 cm when put together, and the usual things featured in a Scalextric set. The track pieces, when put together, form an irregular figure '8', with one part of the track overlapping another to form a bridge. Miscellaneous parts on the cars (mirrors, windshield wipers, e.g.) were broken after years of use and a lot of crashes, so only one of the cars is complete. I later got another set, which featured 2 Aston Martins in Gulf livery.
I rebuilt the track earlier for playing, but I noticed the cars weren't running smoothly. At first I thought it's because of the worn out braids, but after replacing the braids with new ones, they still aren't working. I am sure the problem doesn't lie within the cars, as they can still run smoothly when the braids are in contact with the metal parts.
So I'm pretty sure the slightly worn out metal parts on the track are the source of the problem, as they are no longer shiny and have turned dull, which may cause connection problems between the braids and the metal. And now I'm seeking for solutions on how to remove the dull surface from the metal parts of the track.
I've rubbed them before, but it has no use, and it only gives me filthy fingers with grease on them. Normal cloth doesn't seem to work. I've seen polishing and cleaning pads on the Internet before, but I'm not sure if they'll serve the purpose.

And are there any websites that sell Scalextric slot car shells online? Some of my slot cars' bodywork is damaged, and I'm thinking if there is a way to fix that.
 
Before spending a lot of money try using some big square pencil erasures, that's what I used on my slotless tracks years ago. Just be sure to blow/wipe the "dust" off.
 
Just tried rubbing the metal with pencil erasers, but the effects can barely be seen. It only removes a thin layer of metal which is almost invisible. Most of the scraps goes into the tiny space between the metal rail and the plastic track, and I have to pluck them out with a needle. So I don't think it's effective. Any other ways to remove the dull surface?
And the rusting only happens to metal parts which conduct electricity on the track. As you can see in the picture below, the metal rails (which conduct electricity) have a dull appearance, and the metal part which resemble the shape of a triangle (and does not conduct electricity) is still rather shiny. You can even see the reflection of my hand on it.

Pic:
 
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Scalextric track is a bit different than the AFX and Tyco styled track pieces that I have, but I used to give the metal a light rub with some very fine sandpaper when it started to get too fouled up. Pretty sure though that I also had a bottle of some kind of metal cleaner made for slot car so that I could clean the tracks up with just a rag.
 
Finished rubbing (or is it polishing?) the metal parts with sandpaper the day before, and the cars travel much smoother now. Took me a lot of time to rub though, as I had to take the track pieces apart, polish, then put them back together. It made the polishing job easier though, as I didn't have to kneel down anymore. A lot of metal powder(?) was created, so I had to wash my hands after polishing every few pieces. The electrical conductivity is much better now, but the cars are still stuck at some of the places though, so I have to make the cars go slowly and pinpoint the parts with worse conductivity and polish them again.
Thanks for the advice! 👍
 
Got some time to take these photos 3 months ago, but it's only today that I've finished all the cropping and rotating. Here are the pics which took me a lot of sweat to take. (It's not easy to follow the movements of the slot cars with a camera in your hand, especially when the speed of your camera must be close to that of the cars to get a clear photo. :crazy:)

Maserati MC12



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Dodge Viper



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Porsche 911 GT3R



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Lola Aston Martin



Here's another photo of the Lola travelling around a corner, but it's blurry when viewed in a large size, as the difficulties are twice that of taking a car on a straight.

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Aston Martin DBR9



Another photo of the DBR9. Clearer, yet overexposed.
Enjoy.

(...you should, considering all the efforts I've put into taking these photos. :p)
 
I have a bit of knowledge on slot cars, and I know a bit about sourcing spare scalextric car parts and restoring them. If you have any questions, feel free to ask me:)
 
I have a bit of knowledge on slot cars, and I know a bit about sourcing spare scalextric car parts and restoring them. If you have any questions, feel free to ask me:)
Do you know of any companies which manufacture spare Scalextric body shells and sells them separately? A part of the livery on my DBR9 is badly damaged, and I'm thinking if I could get a new body shell and replace the damaged body shell with it.
 
Do you know of any companies which manufacture spare Scalextric body shells and sells them separately? A part of the livery on my DBR9 is badly damaged, and I'm thinking if I could get a new body shell and replace the damaged body shell with it.
Is it the Gulf car in the picture above?
 
From the places I usually go to, they don't have many decorated bodies. However, I have seen this on ebay:
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I will keep looking for you, but if not, you can get a plain shell which is readily available, and I know of some good decal companies that could do you the Gulf #009 livery.
 
I'm only interested in bodies with the Gulf #009 livery, because it looks much better in my opinion.
Anyone know of a method of removing black Tamiya acrylic paint from the surface of the bodies without destroying the waxy surface and the spray paint underneath the wax layer?
 
I think you would have to use some heavily diluted acetone, about 1%, then use a cotton bud to scrape the top layer off.
 
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