Some good advice here. Usually you have to be careful with the throttle in areas where there's a quick elevation change regardless of settings (like the uphill pseudo hairpin at Watkins) but there are ways to help. Knowing the LSD as mentioned (with initial torque/accel sensitivity dropping it all the way isn't always the best way. Some cars with like 480 lb ft/600bhp might want 45 & 50-55 instead of 10 & 5-10, for example. Just gotta find what a certain car prefers, but generally on high power cars they'll either want a low value or high value, at least in my experience)
But another thing I haven't seen mentioned is tailoring your transmission to the specific track. If you're in 1st or 2nd on a mid-speed corner and keep having the rear want to step out, you can lengthen the gears so that you're laying down a little less torque coming out of that corner, or conversely, shortening the gears so that the problem corner can be taken in 3rd. Also, try "softening" the rear end by lowering the rear natural frequency, as well as increasing the spring compression/expansion. You can try having a lower rear anti-roll bar value than the front, though this can make getting the nose around a corner more difficult (all depends on the car/track combo though)
When you start playing around with these settings, especially since you say it's otherwise driving fine, copy the sheet you're using so you don't mess up all the settings. Then start tinkering, changing/testing one variable at a time, on the settings sheet copy. If you just change the ride height, toe, springs, etc to random numbers all at once you can get into a mess really quick!
