Spec 2 - In depth findings (or questions)

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johnkiller2
Have any of you found out more about what tuning changes Spec 2 has brought? Once digging deeper, there are some very noticable changes but I haven't yet figured out how to optimize the setup in Spec 2. The best way to esperiance the changes is to take a GT500 NSX out for a spin. Before it was quite a challanging drive, but now its much easier to control with the rear being much more stable.

Note that this post is for online and of course with tirewear set to ON.

For a GT500 championship league race yesterday at Suzuka, I struggled with both pace and tirewear. I can usually get into the low 1'51 with a 611PP GT500 car, but I'm now 0.5 sec slower. But what is worse, front tirewear is very high. Prior to Spec 2, tuning the car to oversteer more usually helped front tirewear. But with Spec 2, didn't matter how much oversteer i set, the front tires still wore out much quicker than the front.

This was very noticable in the great but very challanging to take fast, turn 1. In my view, to take that corner fast you have to be late on the breaks whilst balancing the car by tapping the breaks and adjusting the break balance by downshifting using the breaking LDS. If coming a little too hot, it usually works to downshift a little quicker forcing the rear out slightly, but when doing this after Spec 2 the outer front goes overheated. I'm somewhat surprised that sliding the rear will turn the outer front to go overheated.

I'm previously been on the "left columb is backwards" side, but I'm not that sure now. Also the left side seems to a bigger effect now. Before I haven't noticed that much effect on tuning the dampers for under/oversteer through the corner, but it has a bigger effect. They also work correct as softening the front compression and stiffening the rear extension gave a much better turn-in that before on corner entry. Also the springs seems to work correct.
 
I'm pretty sure that it changed the way how camber works. I had a good Sambabus drag tune with lots of camber, but then after the update it just bogged all the time. I had to rework the whole tune (suspension; gears shorter). Sadly the Sambabuses are slower now due to the update.
 
Some cars has gotten faster with Spec 2 and some slower.

In general, I think there is a little more understeer with Spec 2 and oversteer is easier to control. So in general, mid engine cars are probably better with Spec 2 but FR cars would need to be carefully retuned to find the last bit of performance and get back to same lap times as prior to Spec 2.

As per my first post, I'm yet to figure out how to find that last bit of performance. On the good, the tuning of springs, dampers, ARB seems to have a greater impact on the tune than before. Also, before I was in the "backwards setting of left columb suspention" camp, but I'm not that sure now with Spec 2. The car seems to respond more logical to changes in the tune and I can get the car to do fast lap times, but the tirewear really puzzles me after Spec 2.
 
I have noticed that the point at where your tires lose grip-especially sports tires-is more controllable. They slowly lose grip, not snap in and out of functionality.

I also have a question. Is breaking in a car's engine the same? I have a M3 I just bought, and the power had steadily been going up, then it stopped at 579 hp. I've done two oil changes, and I thought since it stopped maybe I could do the engine rebuild. It says still in good condition, but I've heard of the M3 having more power when maxed out.
 
I have noticed that the point at where your tires lose grip-especially sports tires-is more controllable. They slowly lose grip, not snap in and out of functionality.

I also have a question. Is breaking in a car's engine the same? I have a M3 I just bought, and the power had steadily been going up, then it stopped at 579 hp. I've done two oil changes, and I thought since it stopped maybe I could do the engine rebuild. It says still in good condition, but I've heard of the M3 having more power when maxed out.
The cars continuously lose power after 10'000km on the clock. Even an engine rebuild wouldn't help then.
But that's not caused trough the update.
 
kilttraeger
Horse power, I assume?

Maybe there is a bit of BHP vs. PS/CV confusion.. if I remember it correctly, 1 BHP is roughly 1.014 PS.

Fewer mileage. I am in miles but I know it is nowhere near 10,000 km. This would mean the car isn't losing power.
 
There's more than just 1 M3 in the game, maybe you confuse it.
 
dr_slump
There's more than just 1 M3 in the game, maybe you confuse it.

I've been told it's whatever the premium one is, which is what I'm using. I'm just going to do tons of B-Spec races with it since the servers are down and to get as many miles as possible.
 
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