Special Conditions Hall - Help

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I'm trying to finish the Special Conditions dirt and snow races. I've completed all the Easy and Normal races so far in the second hand Mitsubishi Lancer GSR '92. I've managed to bludgeon my way through all the asphalt and half the dirt and snow races in the Hard category also. I am finding some of these races quite hard and I haven't really experimented much with any of the other 4WD vehicles to see if they are any better. I am thinking that perhaps some really light car might be superior. The original options for the Lancer appear to make it very good. At the moment I just use full braking on the front and rear wheels, full ASM and TCS, the closest gear ratio and full time 4WD. This seems to be good enough to get me in front of the other car quickly at the start so I can block it off, then just go full throttle through the dirt or snow, making sure that the front of my car never hits the sides as I smash my way around the track. This seems to be the most effective way of beating those impossible snow and dirt tracks. Does anyone know any other good ways?
 
@ Automobile

The Suzuki GSX R4 will easily win the tarmac rallys. The RAM will net you the others. And you'll net 200 points per race.
Took me a while to figure out what I needed to do but once I found that sticking to the 'borders' of the track in the corner sections
a for grip
b to block
and not going flat out all the time made it relatively easy to put all these ******* races behind me. Slow down sufficiently to not go wide on corners, stick to the inside.

There's one that is eluding me for now. Hard, Gr Canyon Reverse.

Hope this helps.

AMG.
 
Okay I found I had sold my original Dodge RAM, so I bought a new black one and did it up fully. It is good. I beat 2 Hard, Special Conditions Hall dirt rallies with it. It's better than the Mitsubishi Lancer GSR '92. 👍
 
Automobile
Okay I found I had sold my original Dodge RAM, so I bought a new black one and did it up fully. It is good. I beat 2 Hard, Special Conditions Hall dirt rallies with it. It's better than the Mitsubishi Lancer GSR '92. 👍
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I wouldnt say it's good :sly: but it certainly gets the job done, and for that I like it. Glad to read you're nailing Special Conditions.👍

AMG.
 
Here's what I use.

All Rallies - Subaru Impreza STI WRX (Best one from new showroom)
Now and then - TVR 350C

The Subaru has won me all of the Rallies, I went back and did some again in the TVR
 
A quick note onthe ASM and TCS, regradless of the race and surface, never have ASM on, it's a much bigger hinderance than help. But on the off road rallies regardless of your settings ASM and TCS are automatically switched off, they can't help you off road.
 
live4speed
A quick note onthe ASM and TCS, regradless of the race and surface, never have ASM on, it's a much bigger hinderance than help. But on the off road rallies regardless of your settings ASM and TCS are automatically switched off, they can't help you off road.
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Really? I thought they would be most important in conditions where traction was bad. For all offroad races that don't have asphalt sections, I use TCS 10, ASM 24 and brake strength 24 front and back. I also have the VCD set to 50% front/50% rear and have the gear ratio set to 1, unless the course has some really long straights, in which case I use around 3. For courses that have a section of asphalt, I might set the brakes to 24 front/ 12 or 8 rear and set the VCD to 25% front/ 75% rear to get a more oversteer. Using the Dodge RAM with these settings, I conquered many hard Special Conditions hall races. I use a DUALSHOCK controller and automatic transmission.
 
ASM should never be on, TCS only has any effect on road races and your brakes are way too strong, they'll be locking up far too easilly.
 
live4speed
ASM should never be on, TCS only has any effect on road races and your brakes are way too strong, they'll be locking up far too easilly.
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Won't maximum brakes with TCS set to 10 give you the most even braking? I would have thought that of all the combinations of settings, these would give you most stable, if not the shortest braking distance on gravel and snow.
 
Nope, it will lock your wheels like hell. Like I said, TCS isn't relevent off road, regardless of your settings, the game switches it off in the rallys when the race starts. Besides that, TCS isn't that useful on loose surfaces in reallife anyway, as much as the car trys to stop the wheels spinning it's impossible for it to stop the dirt moving, so ultimately the cars wheels will still spin off road.
 
live4speed
Nope, it will lock your wheels like hell. Like I said, TCS isn't relevent off road, regardless of your settings, the game switches it off in the rallys when the race starts. Besides that, TCS isn't that useful on loose surfaces in reallife anyway, as much as the car trys to stop the wheels spinning it's impossible for it to stop the dirt moving, so ultimately the cars wheels will still spin off road.
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Ok, I need to start fiddling with the LSD then, I normally leave it at default. I always have a fully customisable one though, I assume the default settings of a customisable LSD are the same as the 2 way LSD? Even so, I still easily win the hard offroad races with the settings I mentioned previously, since I started using the Dodge RAM. I also always use automatic transmission.
 
You should start using a manual to get a feel for things. It's even more important when you're in a turbo car and you'll often want to keep the engine revving right up at the redline in order to keep the turbo spooled up. I tried using the Ram and it worked okay for the big open Swiss Alps rally, but I found it too slow and sluggish on the twistier, smaller rallies. I'm sure setting my gears closer together would fix those problems, but instead I just took my offroad-capable car with the best power/weight ratio (the Peugeot 205 Turbo 16 EVO2 rally car) and raced that instead. The 205 is pretty nice. Very fast, easily thrown around corners, and the stock gear ratios are just fine.
 
live4speed
ASM should never be on, TCS only has any effect on road races and your brakes are way too strong, they'll be locking up far too easilly.
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Maybe you can help clear up some of my confusion about brake controller settings. I might have everything reversed in my understanding of how it works. I was guessing that the higher the setting the less grab occurred.

Tell me what the difference is if the brakes are set to 1 as opposed to 24.

You say they grab faster if set to 24? I thought they grabbed faster at 1 (I can't really tell so....)

Would you be kind enough to give me an example setting, say if I wanted the rear tires to apply braking power slightly sooner than the fronts.
 
It's the other way round, the higher the number the harder the brakes bite.
Check this thread for some great information, it really is a life saver when it comes to setting up your cars in GT4.

If as an example you had a car with a 50/50 weight distribution you want the rears to be set harder than the fronts, a setting of perhaps 6 on the front and 10 on the rear should do the job. But a lot depends on your driving style and setup your using.
 
live4speed
It's the other way round, the higher the number the harder the brakes bite.
Check this thread for some great information, it really is a life saver when it comes to setting up your cars in GT4.

If as an example you had a car with a 50/50 weight distribution you want the rears to be set harder than the fronts, a setting of perhaps 6 on the front and 10 on the rear should do the job. But a lot depends on your driving style and setup your using.
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Thanks for the help. That's a good enough example. Now I think I'm set straight. I know many cars come with a default setting of 3/3. I can't figure out why that setting, but I'll do some bias testing and see what happens. I always wondered why when I put the settings around 9 or 12, I could barely control the car upon braking. Too grabby, I guess. I thought it was the braking control system kicking back.
 
Luca
I just took my offroad-capable car with the best power/weight ratio (the Peugeot 205 Turbo 16 EVO2 rally car) and raced that instead.
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I was just looking at the power/weight ratio of my garage and the Suzuki Escudo Dirt Trial Car '98 is right up there. I haven't raced it yet, but if someone has, what did you make of it?
 
Automobile
I was just looking at the power/weight ratio of my garage and the Suzuki Escudo Dirt Trial Car '98 is right up there. I haven't raced it yet, but if someone has, what did you make of it?
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Well, Ideally the Suzuki isn't built for rally racing. Unless your a little on the beginner side and like to ride the walls; it will own the competition this way but I would'nt recommend it.

You can give it a go, but it's power is monstrous and will not get you far if you're attempting proper rally racing. (It was built for hill climbs, namely the Pikes Peak Hill Climb Annual)
Go for either an EVO or STi if you're looking for some serious lap-times.
 
SirBerra
Maybe you can help clear up some of my confusion about brake controller settings. I might have everything reversed in my understanding of how it works. I was guessing that the higher the setting the less grab occurred.
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Yep the higher it's set, the stronger they are. I normally leave it at default or as low as possible, especially on the rear wheels. Mostly I set them at 4/3, but if it's a heavy car I try 6/4 or 8/6. I always go higher on the front to create oversteer. It says in the game that if you set the rear brakes too high, the car will spin out more, so I like going a bit higher on the front for a bit of extra stopping power. I'm not sure what the proportions are between 1 and 24, if it's linear or exponential. I've said it before, I'm no tweaking guru, these are just my personal settings. I only tried 24/24 for brake balance and 10 on TCS to get the most power and grip during braking and it seems to work on gravel. Maybe it makes me spin more, but the way I slam my cars around offroad tracks, arsing into the barriers to funnel my way through the circuit, this is a benefit. It also helps offset the understeeryness of using 50/50 4WD.
 
Automobile
I always go higher on the front to create oversteer. It says in the game that if you set the rear brakes too high, the car will spin out more
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Sorry I made a mistake here, it's the other way around. Setting the rear ABS value higher creates oversteer.
 

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