t150 brake problem

Discussion in 'Gran Turismo Sport' started by bil coz, Jul 21, 2019.

  1. bil coz

    bil coz

    Messages:
    309
    Hello all, I've had this wheel for like 3 years, it's really been falling apart for the last 2, I've come up with the laziest ugliest "fixes" which sometimes work, sometimes don't...
    But there is one thing that has been here since the beginning, with the wheel brand new, that goes away and comes back on its own, and I cannot seem to understand the cause behind it.
    For example today it was on, after 2 weeks of having been free of it, and it pretty much ruined a session with a friend who is not around much.
    The problem itself is that my brake pedal stops to give me 100% braking in the game when I fully press it. I press it full and I see the gauge on the screen reach anywhere from 20 to 80%, sometimes a clean stable gauge, sometimes fluctuating.
    So I end up ramming people from behind and it's unbearable.
    I make it go away by disconnecting reconnecting the pedals from the base, or disconnecting reconnecting the wheel to the ps4.. I can then brake fully once or twice, then rage as I immediately start losing more and more efficiency on each subsequent braking.
    It is kind of like the pedal is getting calibrated as I play, and the calibrating never stops. The problem happened back on GT6 with the wheel on PS3 mode as well. It's very infuriating.

    Does anyone have this problem? Does someone have an idea what the cause may be?
     
  2. Trone_Colby

    Trone_Colby

    Messages:
    193
    Are you using stock pedals? Did you try opening it up?

    If they are stock, then check the gears. You can have them plugged up to the ps4 with gt sport on to test.

    If it has gone bad. Then buying a t3pa pedal set is a better option.
     
    bil coz likes this.
  3. FPV MIC

    FPV MIC

    Messages:
    1,597
    It's probably just dirty/worn potentiometers. You can just spray some electrical contact cleaner into them (find any hole you can) and move them through their range of motion a few times.

    This is the part you're looking for:
    DSC01561.jpg
     
  4. bil coz

    bil coz

    Messages:
    309
    yeah I've had to reset the little gear to the right position a few times because I was slightly braking all the time but this is another problem that seemingly disappears on its own. Im fairly certain the gear is still in the right position.
    ..buying stuff is not an option.
     
  5. banckzy

    banckzy

    Messages:
    699
    Location:
    United Kingdom
    I have a g29 so obviously its slightly different, but I had the same 'symptoms' as you. Brake would just apply out of nowhere and its practically impossible to race with such problems.

    My issue was the potentiometers, I didnt realise how dirty inside my pedals were. Somebody mentioned electrical contact cleaner but I didnt have any at the time, so I took it apart.. cleaned and applied some WD40 to it and it's been working fine ever since.

    I watched a guide on youtube to fix mine, it was for the G27 pedals but the G29 looked exactly the same inside. I found this for t3pa pedals, so not sure if your insides will look the same but hopefully it leads you on the right path:

     
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  6. bil coz

    bil coz

    Messages:
    309
    thank you I've opened them multiple times to sort the braking-on-its-own but could never sort that other thing, losing brake efficiency along the drive..
    I'm actually starting to wonder if it's somehow a problem from the base of the wheel overheating. Seems long drifting sessioms
     
  7. FPV MIC

    FPV MIC

    Messages:
    1,597
    Do you use the brake mod? GT Sport continues to calibrate as you keep playing the game so for every harder press of the pedal you do then that's your new threshold for braking. If you do, for want of a better description, panic brake just once you'll find it hard to reach that level of braking pressure again. Keep an eye on the brake meter and see if you're reaching full on it.

    When you've reconnected the pedals it has forced a re-calibration, but as soon as you go overboard with brake pressure again you'll end up with the same problem.

    The fluctuating you mentioned in your first post is, like I said earlier, dirty or worn pots.
     
    bil coz likes this.
  8. nfsp2kTW

    nfsp2kTW

    Messages:
    48
    The pedal's "Variable Resistance" is not well connected,My T3PA PRO is also the same,
    I use the WD-40 spray "VR",which will improve for more than 1 month。
    You can try it。
     
    bil coz likes this.
  9. ARTAsean

    ARTAsean

    Messages:
    1,273
    I don’t know why you guys are spraying WD-40 into your electronics. It’s petroleum based and contains mineral oil & other junk that will leave a residue, and attract more debris.

    The product you want is CRC QD Electronic Cleaner.
     
  10. nfsp2kTW

    nfsp2kTW

    Messages:
    48
    I agree with what you said.
    Just WD-40 is easy to get and there are no side effects in use,
    so I have been using WD-40 to clean electronic devices.
     
  11. bil coz

    bil coz

    Messages:
    309
    thank you all for your suggestions, they are valuable information. However I don't think this problem is actually from inside the pedals.
    I've done nothing and the problem hasnt happened in the 2-3 days (something like 700km of drifting) since then.. the session that triggered it was me pushing for score for over an hour with a car that gave a strong FFB, despite the CH tyres and the FFB on the lowest settings.
    I would also like to point out that the stronger the FFB at the moment I click a shift paddle, the higher chance of the shifting not happening, despite the click happening normally. Example on handbrake entry if I wait for the wheel to be a heavy and then go for a downshift, it's common that I have to click 4-5 times for the downshift to happen. On a straight line or when there is minimal weight in the wheel the shifts don't fail. If I use anything else than 1 for max torque and sensitivity then it becomes absolutely unplayable as the shifters will never work in a turn.
    What could be the cause of that?
     
  12. MortosDer

    MortosDer

    Messages:
    108
    Idk if this helps but a friend of mine got a t300 a few weeks back and humidity seems to cause issues with the accelerator pedal. He uses a hair dryer and that seems to do the trick.
     
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  13. bil coz

    bil coz

    Messages:
    309
    well I have suspected that in the past and it's actually been better since moving to a room that has less humidity, so that does help thank you. Next time it happens I will try then!
     
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  14. Oshawa-Joe

    Oshawa-Joe

    Messages:
    4,612
    Location:
    Canada
    Just.. no, please stop.
     
  15. nfsp2kTW

    nfsp2kTW

    Messages:
    48
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  16. Oshawa-Joe

    Oshawa-Joe

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    4,612
    Location:
    Canada
    That one looks like it should do the trick but I've never seen or used it before. Just don't use regular wd-40. I know many people have used regular WD40 to clean electrical contacts. It's listed as one of its uses.

    I've used it for over 30 years and have gotten it on my hands many times. Its not something I'd ever spray on to a potentiometer.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2019
    ARTAsean likes this.
  17. banckzy

    banckzy

    Messages:
    699
    Location:
    United Kingdom
    Regular WD40 is an electrical contact cleaner, I sprayed it on mine 3 months ago and has worked fine since with regular, if not daily use.