T300RS not working with Project Cars 2?PS4 

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ron Tafoya
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Ron Tafoya

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East Wenatchee
Just bought Project Cars 2 and my thrustmaster t300RS isn't coming up as a controller option under options. it just shows my PS4 wireless controller!

I can use wheel to input commands with the paddle shifters and and the X and O buttons only.

Any suggestions!

Thanks
 
Probably you turned PS4 with DS4? :) If yes - turn off DS4 and reconect T300. Also you can turn on with on button with wheel conected, than you need to push PS button on the wheel.
 
Power off console.
Make sure T300 is in PS4 mode.
Power on console with the power button on the console or PS button on wheel - do not use the DS4.
Do not use DS4 at all until you are in the PC2 menu. After that you can use both.
 
Thanks!
Wouldn’t you know it the PS button on wheel stopped working a week into me having wheel.

I will dig out an old windows laptop (Mac user here) and update wheel to see if that fixes my PS BUTTON.

Have no probs using wheel on GT Sport Cept for the PS BUTTON.
 
Got little problem with pedals of T300.. is it normal that PC2 registers pedals movement only at 33% of maximum travel? Pedal calibration shows clearly that game recognises acc and brake pedals when pressed around 33%.

Zero to 33% is absolute no response from the game which makes noticeably shorter brake pedal travel often resulting in locked brakes.

Help!
 
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andryush
Got little problem with pedals of T300.. is it normal that PC2 registers pedals movement only at 33% of maximum travel? Pedal calibration shows clearly that game recognises acc and brake pedals when pressed around 33%.

Zero to 33% is absolute no response from the game which makes noticeably shorter brake pedal travel often resulting in locked brakes.

Help!
Click to expand...

Only thing I can think of is that your deadzone is set too high on the brake pedal. I'm sure you've checked but just suggesting incase you missed it 👍
 
Captain Roh
Only thing I can think of is that your deadzone is set too high on the brake pedal. I'm sure you've checked but just suggesting incase you missed it 👍
Click to expand...

Deadzone in game is set to 0. It is like there's internal pedals deadzone. Project CARS somehow knows that pedals are depressed, but shows response only when depression reaches 33%. Here's a video:




Someone on official forum having same problem but with different wheel (DFGT) and in PC version of the game.
 
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You have the T3PA pedal set? Or this with only Brake and Acceleration?

I checked this on my T300 with T3PA pedals and everything works fine. If it is not deadzone i suggest sending them for repairs. Did you checked in other racing games?
 
MroczMR
You have the T3PA pedal set? Or this with only Brake and Acceleration?

I checked this on my T300 with T3PA pedals and everything works fine. If it is not deadzone i suggest sending them for repairs. Did you checked in other racing games?
Click to expand...

Regarding calibration screen, it seems like it's bug in the game. Random users also having this issue, with DFGT and G29 wheels. As for pedals, it looks like they have sort of "native" deadozne to them. I'm using standard pedals that come with standard T300 wheel. PC calibration app shows no issues with input, it goes 0 to 100% without problems, it looks like this pedals just work like this...
 
andryush
Deadzone in game is set to 0. It is like there's internal pedals deadzone. Project CARS somehow knows that pedals are depressed, but shows response only when depression reaches 33%. Here's a video:




Someone on official forum having same problem but with different wheel (DFGT) and in PC version of the game.
Click to expand...

When I calibrate my pedals I also find it does not register anything until about 30% or so (and maxes out at about 42% for me as I'm using a brake mod). However when I'm racing you can see the pedal position in the HUD and it is entirely progressive going from zero to full as expected. It is not jumping from zero to 30 in one step. Also regardless of what the HUD is saying the brake also feels progressive.
 
@andryush I had this issue due to spiking of my pedals a bit of cleaner and all issues solved...

Now you should always check the hud. Do you have the same issue in the hud as with the calibration screen? If so you can start assuming something's wrong with the potentiometers of your pedals.
 
Mr Tree
@andryush I had this issue due to spiking of my pedals a bit of cleaner and all issues solved...

Now you should always check the hud. Do you have the same issue in the hud as with the calibration screen? If so you can start assuming something's wrong with the potentiometers of your pedals.
Click to expand...

Did you dissembled pedals base to clean potentiometers? In hud it shows normal progression unlike on calibration screen, although they still have this "native" ~33% deadzone to them, which is awfully bad.
 
andryush
Did you dissembled pedals base to clean potentiometers? In hud it shows normal progression unlike on calibration screen, although they still have this "native" ~33% deadzone to them, which is awfully bad.
Click to expand...

I disassembled the pedal base and could reach the potentiometer with the nozzle of the contactcleaner.
Spray it like mad. Press and depress the pedals a few times.
Just for safety disconnect the steering wheel from the powergrid and ps/xb/pc.
Wait 5minutes after spraying to plug them in again.


(The wait time is just for safety and shouldn't be nessecary)
 
Mr Tree
I disassembled the pedal base and could reach the potentiometer with the nozzle of the contactcleaner.
Spray it like mad. Press and depress the pedals a few times.
Just for safety disconnect the steering wheel from the powergrid and ps/xb/pc.
Wait 5minutes after spraying to plug them in again.


(The wait time is just for safety and shouldn't be nessecary)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I have disassembled my pedals, didn't have cleaner unfortunately, byt instead I readjusted potentiometers gears. Pedals work like a charm now. Thrustmaster clearly has some issues with build quality. For the money they want for their wheels, it should work flawlessly out of the box! For such problematic hardware as it is, it should cost 50% less. Logitech G29 is faar better product, and its cheaper... I'm disappointed.
 
I always turn on my PS4 with the DS4 with no issues. Just have to make sure you launch the game with the wheel.
 

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