I have a T300RS that I purchased in December of 2017 so just under a year and a half old. On Sunday, I was qualifying for a few daily races in GT Sport. I got up from my seat and when I came back the wheel was off. No fan, no lights, nothing. I tried switching USB ports on the PS4 and plugging it in to a PC and the unit showed no signs of life either time. Any thoughts or should I consider the unit dead and try to move on with life?
T300RS Suddenly Dead
- Thread starter jasguer
- 5 comments
- 20,086 views
- 239
It might be this:
Thanks! I'll check that out probably tomorrow night.
I assumed it was only 1 year so I probably voided the warranty when I opened it up to see if there was anything obviously wrong. I didn't think to look and see how long the warranty was, I figured it was a year.
- 145
- Thessaloniki
Opening the device shouldn't void the warranty unless you did some damage to the casing that makes it obvious.
So check first about the warranty.
If you don't have any luck with that go on to check the base.Before opening the PSU like in the video there are some things you need to be able to check all possible failures .
T1. Multimeter
T2. 24V DC psu rated for more than 3Amperes
Possible problems
P1. Dead PSU. Maybe you can fix it like in the video posted above , but first check P2
P2. No 5V at the psu 4 pin plug on the motherboard (problem of the MB). (If it won't give 5v , then the internat relay won't trigger the psu to output 25V and it looks dead) In this case connecting the external 24V psu would power up the wheel. If this is the reason the original psu may still be fine , but you won't be able to use it. You'll have to use your wheel with the external one.
P3. No 5V because of usb cable problem. Check the cable.
P4. Dead Motherboard. Can't do much unless you are an experienced electronics guy and can do repairs like that. If you are you already know 1/2/3
So steps.
1. Check the USB cable .
2. Check with the multimeter the 4 pins plug on the motherboard with the wheel connected to the pc. The two thin wires should show 5V. If it shows 5V it's P1/P4. If not , it's P2/3/4
3. With the external 24V psu make a connection (probably cut the original 4 pin & make adapter) connecting the two thick wires (red=+24V . black = neg) to the MB. If it powers up it's P1/P2. If not it's P3/P4
4. If the wheel works then either try fixing the PSU like in the video , or just settle with the external one that will ease off the heat load from the base as well. Just make sure you make a solid connection that will not end in loose wires , shorting anything and frying equipment.
5. If in step 3 you still don't have a working wheel troubleshoot the usb cable if you have any knowledge , or sell the wheel for spare parts. As said , problem with the MB is probably not fixable.
