TeT Garage- We tune what you won't touch

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The list of TeT tunes here (in order by post):

2010 TeT W-901 "Laguna Seca Edition" -------------Page 1, Post 6
2010 TeT 250RS-E Rally Car -----------------------------Page 1, Post 13
2010 TeT Seven Fire Blade GT-----------------------Page 1, Post 16
2010 TeT VR8 Vantage LM Road Car--------------------Page 1, Post 17
2010 TeT Playstation C100/Peugeot LM Race Car----------Coming Soon!
 
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But where's the actual tune? Gear ratios and brakes set to the driver's preferences don't equal a full setup. The Caterham in particular is a notoriously difficult car to drive and tune, it takes a lot more than every imaginable tuning part and super sticky tyres to make it handle properly.
 
Sorry, I forgot the suspension stuff. And the goal of this one is actually not to make it fast.
 
Plus, drivers' aids can slow your car down in corners, as I think traction control works by cutting the power going to the wheels. I'm not so sure about ASM though.
 
I'll have to test that, through probably not around the 'Ring. Maybe Tsukuba or something. I think I will have another tune up today.

EDIT: After looking through the Driver Aids, I took some laps to get a feel of Tsukuba. First was with aids, ther car was firm and well, and had the excitement. Without aids, the car was a lot less sturdy, but more fun, slippier in some places and locked up in others. Nitrous blasts were smoky with the new settings.
 
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Triomph en Tune- WIN BY TUNE

2010 TeT W-901 Laguna Seca Edition
Engine: 5998cc W-12, 901hp @ 7,000rpm, 688.18lb.-ft. @ 5,800rpm
Dimensions (mm): 4550 x 1920 x 1100
Weight: 1261kg
Power-to-Weight Ratio: 1.381kg per horsepower

-This special edition model Volkswagen ditches the old W12 Nardo name, and picks its moniker from its HP and the track it was tested on, instead of TeT's normal Nurburgring Nordschleife test. The test was VW's stock runner against TeT's tuned model. This car is in hypercar territory, it beats up on Aero TT's and anything else that came from VW. (ahem, Veyron)

Specs

Parts:
NA Tune- Stage 3
Nitrous
Racing Brakes
Brake Controller
Limited-Slip Differential- Full Customize
Suspension- Racing
Wieght Reduction- Stage 3
Increase Rigidity
Oil Change (optional)

Driving Aids:
ASM (oversteer/understeer): 1/1
TCS Controller: 1

Tires: Sports Medium (S2)

Suspension: (F/R)
Spring Rate: 11.0/12.0
Ride Height (mm): 89/90
Shock (Bound): 5/5
Shock (Rebound): 9/9
Camber Angle: 2.0/2.0
Toe Angle: -2/+2
Stabilizer: 5/5

Transmission:

**Set Auto to 20**

1st: 4.280
2nd: 2.684
3rd: 1.878
4th: 1.385
5th: 1.077
6th: 0.882
Final: 3.070

Brake Contoller (F/R): 7/9

Nitrous Injection Density: 50

*Behind the Laguna Seca Title*

I decided to run at Laguna Seca. I was in the mood and said "why not?" So I shipped 2 cars: a 2001 Volkswagen W12 Nardo and the TeT W-901. I decided to run them against each other, as proof of TeT's superior tuning for racing. Here's what I found:

Stock: 1'30.930
Tuned: 1'24.042

Good work. But I still had my personally mandated machine tests, so I had the cars flown to Japan's largest oval, the Test Course, part of the Drving Park, which is owned by some company called Polyphony Digital. Never heard of them. For the Top Speed Test, this happened:

Stock: 221.69 mph (w/o Nitrous)
Tuned: 286.31 mph (w/ Nitrous)

After that blowout, I headed to Sin City for the 0-400m test, and this was a little less exciting:

Stock: 0'11.970
Tuned: 0'11.838

So that was close, but my W-901 came above the Nardo. And I hope yours does too. 👍
 
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Not gonna lie there doesnt seem to be alot of improvment on anything there. Just saying. Unless I'm totally missing something.
 
3 seconds faster lap on S2 tires IS a lot of improvement.

The difference between stock and tuned is not so huge with sport tires, because you can't use the power very effinicently. If you compare stock on R3's and tuned on R3's, the difference is bigger. In this case, I think that 3 seconds off is great.
 
3 seconds faster lap on S2 tires IS a lot of improvement.

I dare to disagree. The car has gained almost 300 horsepower over stock, that's several tenths on every straight alone. To be honest three seconds with only suspension tuning still wouldn't be a lot. Modifications like that should bring an improvement of five or six seconds at least.

But as the constructive part of the post I'll give some advice. The car is too low (lacks suspension travel), too stiff (no way the wheels can follow the bumps) and running far too much camber (always riding on the insides of the tyres) so there's quite a lot to be gained. Now the suspension and tyres aren't being used to anywhere near their full capabilities.

For a comparison, try my stock powered Nardo and you'll at least find out if I have any credibility for my sayings. S2 tyres should work although S3 are specified.
 
Well I hear your point Greycap, it is true to perfect a car, and I've got some ears to listen. I knew I could have gotten the lap time higher, but to be truthful I was tired and just wasn't in the mood to run, kind of a bad time for a tune-up. I'll try out changing the supension parts, see if it gets any better. Maybe I'll have a tune up later, or tomorrow, I'm not sure yet, depending on which one you guys want to see. I have a 2004 BMW 120d tune and a 1992 Toyota Sera tune ready for a write-up.

And maybe a helping factor is that rigidity and weight stage 3 were already equipped for the stock run.

EDIT: Thanks Greycap, I tested the car with a little less of the suspension adjustments, got a better time, in fact doubled the amount of time I bet the stock run by. I suppose trial and error is the name of the game?
 
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I suppose triasl and error is the name of the game?

Yes, more than anything else. Of course having some kind of a ballpark to begin with (with more experience you'll learn to put some basic settings in a certain type of car) is helpful but in the end the only way to find the best combination of settings is to test them all. Sometimes the setup that actually works looks so odd that you couldn't have done it any other way - good examples are stiff front springs on an MR car despite the nose being very light, works on some of them but certainly not all, or softening the rear stabilizer to get more oversteer as it goes against all laws of physics but on some cars it just works. And you don't know about such cases until you've tried them!
 
'Nuf said right there, I mean I used to be pretty damn good at tuning, but then I lost my PS2, went GT4-dry for maybe a year and a half. It was fun getting used to it, and this time I've got GTP with me to help. And tuning is a lot of work, it takes a smart person to do it well, but sometimes it's just playing with the slider until you think you've got it. I suppose that's the joy in tuning. I also might get up a special, special tune for a certain BMW...
 
Here's another one, except it might get some criticism for my bad stock times (maybe)

2010 TeT 250RS-E Rally Car
Engine: 2340cc DOHC Inline4, 249hp at 7200rpm, 189.79lb.-ft. at 6000rpm
Weight: 970kg
Drivetrain: FR

-With me at TeT I decided to pull a dust collector in my garage, this 240RS Rally Car from Nissan. Most cars that serve no purpose normally get a just TeT tune, and this was one where I was stuck with no way to get horsepower, and slim pickings for corner aiding parts. With few to work with, I set out to drive what might have been a very joyful ride.

-Specs-

Parts to Purchase:
Nitrous Kit
Increase Rigidity Kit
Dirt Tires

-The Tune-

Tires: R1 (Dirt or Snow as required)

Suspension (F/R):

Spring Rate: 5.0/4.4
Ride Height (mm): 165/165
Shocks (Bound): 6/6
Shocks (Rebound): 6/6
Camber Angle: 2.0/1.0
Toe Angle: 0/0
Stabilizers: 3/3

Transmission:

*Set Auto to 10*

1st: 3.142
2nd: 2.071
3rd: 1.480
4th: 1.119
5th: 0.896
Final: 3.824

Driver Aids:
TCS: 1
ASM (Oversteer/Understeer): 5/5

Limited-Slip Differential:
Initial Torque- 20
Acceleration- 40
Deceleration- 30

Miscellaneous:

Downforce (F/R): 13/11
Nitrous Injection Density: 70

-The Test-

I did my Stock versus Tuned again, this time taking it rallying and circuit driving. Here's what my data showed.

Cathedral Rocks Trail II:
Stock- 1'21.070
Tuned- 1'15.590

Autumn Ring:
Stock: 1'26.765
Tuned: 1'21.862

Circuit de la Sarthe I:
Stock- 4'38.489
Tuned- 4'26.374

So yes, the tune worked nicely. One thing with this car is its fun level. Stock, the car is absolutely calm, drving nice and soft as it should, driving not too fast nor too slow. It possessed a mellow feeling about it. The steering is a bit heavy and indirect, and by no means is this car going to set lap records, but it's such a mellow car that I couldn't resist it.

Now in Tuned Mode, the car was by far a lot quicker, and with the softer suspension, stronger diff and looser driiving aids, the car was a lot more responsive, making it by far a lot quicker. The transmission change weiled a good 13mph increase, while still keeping its close spaced rally ratios. I decided not to tack on a 470hp Stage Four Turbo because from the first turn at Cathedral, I knewq what this car was supposed to be. Not a killer, slamming and banging for a win, but a nice, revvy, lightweight FR car that needed care and finesse to drive. I loved this car.

I hope you do too.
 
Hi, how do I get a W12 (it's not for sale)? I'm interested in trying out the W901.

Thanks,
Simon

Extreme Hall- Like The Wind.
1 Race Event- Test Course- 5 laps
Get an LMP or Group C LM car my friend. Get hard tires and the biggest damn turbo out there.

Also, TeT will be getting a Aston Martin tune up (spy shots in my gallery :sly:) and maybe an SUV one, although I'm wondering, MX-Crossport, Honda Element, Land Rover Range Stormer, can't figure out what to choose.
 
Triomph en Tune- WIN BY TUNE

I've started playing GT4 recently again, and one thing I've been up to is a lot of tuning work, oily nights spent in the garage perfecting my rides to make me better. And I've got some works for you to try out.

*Note that my tunes are not always built for competing.

2002 TeT Seven Fire Blade GT
Engine: Supercharged 916cc DOHC Inline-4, 236hp @10,450rpm; 127.73lb.-ft. @ 9,250rpm
Dimensions (mm): 3100 x 1575 x 990
Weight: 335kg
Power-to-Weight Ration: 1.401kg per horsepower


This Caterham tune is unracable, although it is one hell of as drive. You may have trouble with this tune, it is difficult to drive, but if mastered, it will make you better.

Specs

Parts:
Exhaust- Racing
ECU Racing Chip
Port Polish
Engine Balancing
Nitrous Kit
Supercharger
Brakes- Racing
Brake Controller (option)
Suspension- Racing
Transmission- Full Customize
Clutch- Triple Plate
Flywheel- Racing
Carbon Driveshaft
Limited-Slip Differential (option)
Weight Reduction- Stage 3


Driving Aids:
ASM (Oversteer/Understeer): 1/1
TCS Controller: 0

Tires: R5's are recommended; R2's-R4's can also be used.

Suspension (F/R)
Spring Rate: 8.0/7.8
Ride Height: 50/50
Shock (Bound): 7/7
Shock (Rebound): 7/7
Camber Angle: 4.5/2.0
Toe Angle: 0/0
Stabilizers: 7/7


Transmission:

**Set Auto to 25**

1st- 4.082
2nd- 2.610
3rd- 1.800
4th- 1.341
5th- 1.044
6th- 0.794
Final- 2.972

Brakes: Optional, to driver's preference.

Nitrous: Set injection density to 100.

I will have a Nurburgring Lap Time up soon for this tune, and I will run all acceleration tests for this.

Notes: the car is hard, the suspension is tricky, especially how harsh it is. The decreased weight makes the car extremely hard to handle, but the car can be driven extremely quick.

Nurburgring Time: 7'11.951 (I admit to it being dirty, curbs are difficult in such car.)

0-400M: 0'11.521

Top Speed: 218.1mph

Description: It is crazy. Caterham's famously light Seven made lighter, and more powerful. Featuring a supercharged 4-cylinder, it screams its way to the redline and can reach amazing speeds, making it super nimble. A practice run star.
 
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2010 TeT Vr8 Vantage LM Road Car

Engine- 5408cc DOHC V8, 859hp at 6500rpm, 831.35lb.-ft. at 4000rpm
Weight- 1635kg
Power to Weight Ratio- 1.877 hp per kg
Drivetrain- FR

-Parts-
Racing Exhaust
Racing Brakes
Brake Controller
NA Stage 3
Port Polish
Engine Balancing
ECU Chip
Nitrous Kit
Transmission- Full Customize
Clutch- Triple Plate
Flywheel- Racing
Carbon Driveshaft
Limited-Slip Differential- Full Customize
Racing Suspension
Stage 3 Weight Reduction
Increase Rigidity
Rear Wing

-Suspension (F/R)-
Spring Rate- 10.5/10.0
Ride Height (mm)- 90/90
Shock (Bound)- 5/5
Shock (Rebound)- 9/9
Camber- 2.0/2.2
Toe- 0/0
Stabilizers- 6/6

-Transmission-
**Set Auto to 20**

1st- 2.840
2nd- 1.870
3rd- 1.300
4th- 0.980
5th- 0.770
6th- 0.600

Final- 3.080

-Driving Aids-
ASM (Oversteer/Understeer)- 5/5
TCS- 1

-Miscellaneous-

Brake Controller (F/R)- 7/10
Downforce (F/R)- 30/30
Tires- S2 (Sports Medium)

The Laptime

I headed out to Mazda Laguna Seca for this one, and I have to say, this pretty much ruined my hopes for this car. I tested with the parts with stock settings, and then threw in my settings for comparison.

Parts Only- 1'34.603
Tuned- 1'33.313

I don't know why this happened, I drove as well as I could with a minimal improvement in times. I thought with the changes, it could wield 2-3 seconds of difference, but alas, it was off. I feel really disappointed with my tuning, but since I wrote all of this, here you go.


Our next tune is in the works, see above for our next tuner.
 
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The problem is that you're still using drivers' aids. Take them off (although with this you may want to leave TCS at around 1 or 2) and you can realise this car's full potential.
 
The problem is that you're still using drivers' aids. Take them off (although with this you may want to leave TCS at around 1 or 2) and you can realise this car's full potential.

I'll try that, although it feels like it's the tires. I know, S2's aren't that great, but it's the same tires for both cars, you'd expect to find something good in there.
 
1. TCS slows a cars true acceleration.
2. ASM hides the handling characteristics of a car, not letting you feel the limit of the car.
3. S2's with 800hp+ always equals a nice tyre frying time.

Have a look at my garage called Grease Monkey Engineering (GME), I have several tunes where I have literally pushed the limits of S3 tyre'd performance. Some of these cars you will find in other garages with R2 or R3 tyres on them with similar power levels. I can tell you right now that once you pass the 750Nm mark for torque, unless you have perfectly tuned the car's suspension setup all you are doing is wheel spinning, even with perfect throttle control.

Quite a few of my cars have 800Nm+ and 600hp+ running on S3's and they are near the limits of what the tyre can handle, so throttle control is a key to getting good speed out of these cars but they can be easily provoked into giving a 400m powerskid from 80km/h by going from 3rd back into 2nd and planting the accelerator and going back up through the gearbox if the driver wants to have some tyre smoking drifting fun. It might show you things that can improve your tuning but it might not suit your style. However, by looking at how other people set up their cars (I recommend MFT, RRV, ETZ, MCG or GME), it will help you in making better cars WITHOUT driving aids. 👍
 
I agree that using Driving Aids on a car like this is distracting and ultimately you're not going to see the car's full potential with them ON, but if that's the way Prologue wants to tune, that's how he's gonna tune. It's his vision.
 
But, If you use Aids any car car be a good car and tuning becomes quite easy.

There was a guy who plagued this sub-forum not so long ago who had exactly that same idea. He even used drivers' aids for rally tunes, even though all drivers' aids are turned off when you go on either dirt or ice/snow.
 
I agree that using Driving Aids on a car like this is distracting and ultimately you're not going to see the car's full potential with them ON, but if that's the way Prologue wants to tune, that's how he's gonna tune. It's his vision.

True, but I will take the criticism. It can't hurt. Let me try this again, I still need sometime (someones using the TV right now.)
 
Well I hate to say this, but TeT's GT4 Division is going to be shutting down in a month. In preparation for GT5, I've been stuck with Prologue, no more time left for my old pal GT4. I'll have one last tune for this garage to go out on.
 
TeT W-901 Review
Warning: it's not pretty. Please don't take it personally, I'm not trying to be rude or mocking, I just think there are some tips that could improve your tunes. :cool: And this much power on such little grip is always gonna be a handful, so you've set yourself a really hard challenge.

Note: all testing was done without any TCS or ASM. I realise this is not what TeT specifies but IMHO much better tuning results are achieved without it. It is fine to use a small amount in endurance races, for example, to help achieve consistent laps, but at the tuning stage you really need to access the car's full potential without any electronic nannys. </rant>

Parts only (except suspension) (as a baseline against which to compare the TeT settings)
Urgh! Grip, please?!!!! 1st gear? No. 2nd gear? No. 3rd gear? Maybe...
The 2nd to 3rd gearshift is soooo slow (since a Racing Flywheel is not available for the W12) that I found myself cruising around in 3rd even in the slowest corners. Using 2nd meant waiting far too long for 3rd to engage and then most often wheelspin in 3rd because it is hard to get the right amount of throttle after the change.
Braking distances are much longer than expected, but interestingly they improve if early downchanges are used to compression lock the rears. Heavy understeer while braking.
The front end does not grip until very late in the corner. And at this stage the driver is about to start accelerating out, so rear traction becomes the more important issue.
Laguna Seca lap time (using DS2): 1:27.6 Yes, most of the above problems would be greatly reduced with better tyres, but still I think there is much more potential even with the current parts...which is where TeT comes in...

TeT Tune
(using default settings for downforce (not sure if it's adjustable anyway?) and LSD because none were given)
Braking distances are still very long (perhaps not something that can be avoided with these parts). Understeer while braking is slightly reduced, which is nice.
And the shorter gearing means better acceleration in 4th (I can see how this would make quite a big difference when using TCS). Despite having "traction issues" under 150km/h, the stock W12 is indeed over-geared, so this is a step in the right direction.
Rear traction when accelerating is slightly improved, so I think the +ve rear toe has paid off.
Perhaps due to the low ride height, the overall balance is very understeery. As Greycap noted, the ride is very stiff.
Laguna Seca lap time (using DS2): 1:26.1

So the clock gives a 1.5 sec improvement and my thumbs also liked your settings better, which means there are some positives here. If I may suggest further areas to look at for improvement, they would be: raise the ride height, softer springs + dampers + stabilisers, taller (smaller number) 2nd and 3rd gear, shorter 4th and 5th and 6th gear, less front brake, and experiment with the LSD settings to reduce understeer. But maybe in the end, better tyres are unavoidable for taming the beast.

Again, please believe that I am only posting this as constructive criticism. Hope it helps.

Simon
 
There was a guy who plagued this sub-forum not so long ago who had exactly that same idea. He even used drivers' aids for rally tunes, even though all drivers' aids are turned off when you go on either dirt or ice/snow.

Oh yea...that guy. :crazy: The difference was that guy plastered the Aids on his cars (even the very slowest VW Beetle), wheras GT_Prologue 5 seems more discriminatory.
 
Well B, I'm not one who's experienced with no aids type of driving, maybe when I get GT5 I'll start with the more purist example, manual and no aids. I wasn't too big with the manual in GT4, which is why I don't use it. Probably get better times though.

And thanks for the review, Nomis. Sorry I didn't get to one of yours, but GT4 is almost sealed up for some time right now.
 
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