I was on the floor.
Anyway, I do like DSM that are tuned "properly". You know, big power, big wheels, etc. I've never been under the impression that they were great circuit or track cars, but that might be because the vast majority of DSMers around here are all about the engine. Nothing wrong with that. One of my car buddies has a 300+whp Talon TSi, and man, that thing is a rocket. He wanted to race a Viper on the highway but the old man wouldn't play, so Alex just shot 2 foot flames at him instead.
Slicks, I'm not sure how much negative camber gain is typical in lowered McPherson strut setups. There's very little gain, if any, at stock height under load, so I don't figure you'd gain hardly any. If I remember right, my old Cavalier gained under .5 degrees lowered 2 inches. I'm cruising with about -2.5 on the front and -1.5 on the rear of my Sol, and the extra grip from that was stupendous, especially at low speeds. I don't recommend that much on the heavier 1G because my relatively hard all-seasons might make it more than 2 years. I had them off last weekend for my clutch job and decided they'll need to be replaced after another year and a half or so.
If you get high performance summer tires you won't need as much camber because the tires won't roll over as much. My front camber along with 40psi in the tires makes for a perfect cornering contact patch. With summer tires I could probably make do with the recommended 32psi and less camber.
Oh, and if you want to properly iron out your handling, Slicks, you should throw on some big antiroll bars and a new set of tires first. You wouldn't believe the difference a stock-sized hi-po tire, a set of sway bars, and a new alignment would make. You might lose the desire to lower it at all!