The Fanatec/GT5:P FF problem.

[hampus_dh]

This is only for those who have a Turbo S or a GT3 RS V2.

And i´m sure you know what i´m talking about.

It´s the dead zone you can feel on straights, there´s alot of play in the wheel before it actually makes the car turn, so keeping check of the balance of the car is impossible of you want to put down some really fast laps.

I also noticed some wierd FF effects on Daytona but i think that´s just the bumps on the track. And when driving the tuned lotus on Daytona, when you turn, (fraction of a second) then the car turns, so you have to counter steer abit because it wants to turn more than you, so you have to steer in again etc. so it gets very "wobbly"
When going through the fastest turn on Daytona for example.

Have anybody solved this major problem? It like there are some major issues with the FF in the game and not the wheel. And is this something that all drivers with a wheel feel or is this just Fanatec GT3RSV2/TurboS

 

[Chapman2424]

Correct me if I am wrong but wasn't the latest firmware update supposed to address this issue ?

-Chapman

 

[hampus_dh]

I don´t know I´m just so pissed of at the lack of information on Fanatecs site. I even looked up the new firmware (wich is for Turbo S).

I don´t know if i should download the GT3RS firmware or the Turbo S firmware and it pisses me of that theres no info whatsoever on his ****** site that says what drivers to download.

EDIT: Sent an email now, will be interesting to see if they answer. I´m definitely not downloading any new firmware now because some people have felt it gotten worse after that..

 

[sonac]

I have a V2 wheel and did not experience such problem :S. And i don't think there are any firmware updates available for the GT3RS V2 for now.. It's a new wheel.
What settings do you use? Check on wheel settings to see, if you have dead zone turned on. Maybe that's causing your problem. Also set sensitivity to 900°.
And for force feedback i suggest you use strength 1 out of 10 in GT5 settings.

 

[hampus_dh]

I have a V2 wheel and did not experience such problem :S. And i don't think there are any firmware updates available for the GT3RS V2 for now.. It's a new wheel.
What settings do you use? Check on wheel settings to see, if you have dead zone turned on. Maybe that's causing your problem. Also set sensitivity to 900°.
And for force feedback i suggest you use strength 1 out of 10 in GT5 settings.

Yea did all of that but there are still some dead play around the centre of the wheel. And what firmware did you download? the GT3RS or the Turbo S?

 

[sonac]

You don't need no firmware updates. There aren't any and firmwares for other wheels will kill your wheel.

 

[crazedmodder]

Yea did all of that but there are still some dead play around the centre of the wheel. And what firmware did you download? the GT3RS or the Turbo S?

Just in case someone reads this thread and not the Fanatec wheel thread:

Drivers and firmware are completely different things as drivers are installed on your PC but firmware is uploaded to your wheel. Also just because it has similar functions to a Turbo S does not mean it has Turbo S electronics. The design is probably similar as are most of the ICs but don't forget the Turbo S supports X360, wireless dongles and has lit up buttons.

All the wheels ship with firmware already installed, if there was none installed then the wheels would not work. Since the GT3RS V2 only has one firmware available for it, that is what comes installed from Fanatec and there is none available on their site for the GT3RS V2 (because it would be the exact same as what you have now).

You cannot mix firmware between devices because no matter what it is (eg: phone, mp3 player, wheel, etc) it will most likely die. It is always safer just to assume every product is different and wait for a firmware download for your specific device, in this case not a Turbo S but a GT3RS V2. By the way, there is no firmware available for a GT3RS because it does not have user upgradeable firmware, only drivers.

As for your problem, did you try adjusting deadzone on the wheel? Try turning it off and see if it still has that problem.

 

[hampus_dh]

Just in case someone reads this thread and not the Fanatec wheel thread:


As for your problem, did you try adjusting deadzone on the wheel? Try turning it off and see if it still has that problem.

Thank you for the quick info. I haven´t installed any firmware only drivers when i got the wheel so everything should be ok.

And about the Deadzone, yes i´ve tried turning it up to 10 or 20 but it just make the degrees close to the center abit smoother but removes the sharpness for evey 10 i increase, I´m thinking that this might be a GT5 problem and not the wheel because it works perfect in IRacing wich i do most of my racing.

The FF just feels totally wrong and does things a wheel shouldn´t in certain situations. I can do some laps and beat the A.I. but not super fast laps because of the deadzone or delay near the center. When driving the lotus jn daytona it´s like you pull a little, then counter-steer, pull, counter-steer etc.
The car itself doesn´t get lose in the backend (you take Daytona with ful-throttle) but the wheel thinks it does in some way so theres a constant correction of course instead of the silky smooth steering that lets you place the car wherever you want.

The wheel/ car should respond to the slightest change of course but with full feeling from the center and not like you turn abit and then you can feel the wheel move into the "FF area"

 

[Fanatec...]

You can easily check if the wheel is working if you use a tool like DXtweak on PC. Of course you need to be sure that all settings in the Tuning menu are correct. I suggest that you watch my video which explains the functions.

If you put "dEA" to "0" then there is no deadzone in the wheel at all. Due to the belt drive this wheel has less deadzone than any other wheel.

Every game is different and GT5 is very different from iRacing so please take your time.

 

[hampus_dh]

You can easily check if the wheel is working if you use a tool like DXtweak on PC. Of course you need to be sure that all settings in the Tuning menu are correct. I suggest that you watch my video which explains the functions.

If you put "dEA" to "0" then there is no deadzone in the wheel at all. Due to the belt drive this wheel has less deadzone than any other wheel.

Every game is different and GT5 is very different from iRacing so please take your time.

The wheel does work in PC and PS3 and i shouldn´t have to download any software since it´s full PS3 compatibility?

I´ve tried all the settings but all they do is tri to hide the real problem. It would be nice if you took one of your V2´s and start playing GT5 and you will see what i mean.

 

[hampus_dh]

Have you tried the V2 with GT5 ?

 

[crazedmodder]

The wheel does work in PC and PS3 and i shouldn´t have to download any software since it´s full PS3 compatibility?

I´ve tried all the settings but all they do is tri to hide the real problem. It would be nice if you took one of your V2´s and start playing GT5 and you will see what i mean.

Have you tried the V2 with GT5 ?

Nothing to download for the PS3.

If it works fine in iRacing but not in GT5P then it may just be the way GT5P is as Fanatec said. Do you have any other wheels to try in GT5P or any other PS3 games to try your V2 on?

I'll let you know sometime this weekend about how GT5P plays with the V2. Honestly though, you would need someone who plays both iRacing and GT5P to chime in because going from the FFB in iRacing to GT5P will make certain FFB weaknesses in GT5P more apparent.

For example, I received Supercar Challenge a month or two ago and I've only been playing that and have not played GT5P for awhile. Going from GT5P to SCC at first I did not notice much of a difference but the other day I wanted to race my friend so I loaded up GT5P and it was so bad I thought my wheel (Logitech DFGT) was broken. The FFB was set to 10 and I was getting almost no resistance from the wheel and there was almost no feel to the understeer/oversteer as well as the bumps in the road that unsettled the car being much more difficult to feel. Sure enough when I loaded SCC back up everything felt fine so it is important to keep in mind how much FFB can vary between games.

 

[Gt-fan_76]

I am driving the V2 only on GT5P and i càn`t see your problem, are you sure that the steering-aid is switched off?
The only issue that i have realised is, that there is a very small 0-point so that on the straights the wheel whobbels very hard from left to right and you are running a bit in zick -zack, espacially on the High Speed Ring. Sometimes i manage to controll it and finding the rght point to coorrect it, but as i said already you will training your arms.
By the way my G25 did it too, but with the V2 its a bit harder.
But all in all I am happier with my V2.


Just shut off every aids like ACS, SCS or however you name them and give it a try
Sorry for my bad english.

 

[hampus_dh]

I am driving the V2 only on GT5P and i càn`t see your problem, are you sure that the steering-aid is switched off?
The only issue that i have realised is, that there is a very small 0-point so that on the straights the wheel whobbels very hard from left to right and you are running a bit in zick -zack, espacially on the High Speed Ring. Sometimes i manage to controll it and finding the rght point to coorrect it, but as i said already you will training your arms.
By the way my G25 did it too, but with the V2 its a bit harder.
But all in all I am happier with my V2.

Sorry for my bad english.

This is exactly my problem, It´s not a violent wobble, it just feels like the wheel thinks the backend is getting lose so you have to correct something you shouldn´t correct in the first place. At Daytona for example, you turn, (fraction of a second), the car turns to much, you have to correct, (fraction of a second), and the car turns to much again. You can´t put down good laps if you wheel doesn´t work the way it should. It doesn´t matter what settings you choose because it only tries to "cover up" the problem, but doesn´t fix it.
This is not something i should have to learn or train my arms. This problem shouldn´t exist at all.

But, It seems that this problem lies with GT5 and not the wheel itself because i play Iracing almost everyday and it works superb there.

This problem is nothing but unacceptable and i hope this problem is fixed in GT5 or the latest drivers depending who´s to blame.

 

[hampus_dh]

Nothing to download for the PS3.

If it works fine in iRacing but not in GT5P then it may just be the way GT5P is as Fanatec said. Do you have any other wheels to try in GT5P or any other PS3 games to try your V2 on?

I'll let you know sometime this weekend about how GT5P plays with the V2. Honestly though, you would need someone who plays both iRacing and GT5P to chime in because going from the FFB in iRacing to GT5P will make certain FFB weaknesses in GT5P more apparent.

For example, I received Supercar Challenge a month or two ago and I've only been playing that and have not played GT5P for awhile. Going from GT5P to SCC at first I did not notice much of a difference but the other day I wanted to race my friend so I loaded up GT5P and it was so bad I thought my wheel (Logitech DFGT) was broken. The FFB was set to 10 and I was getting almost no resistance from the wheel and there was almost no feel to the understeer/oversteer as well as the bumps in the road that unsettled the car being much more difficult to feel. Sure enough when I loaded SCC back up everything felt fine so it is important to keep in mind how much FFB can vary between games.

I play Iracing and GT5 and it´s not a difference in FF, it´s a flaw in the FF. Big difference there m8.
The wheel doesn´t give you the right FF with the dead zone around the center wich means that keeping check of the weight of the car is impossible when tryin to maximise the cars potential.

there is FF but not proper FF.

 

[crazedmodder]

Sorry it took so long but I just wanted to get back to you even though my news probably won't be helpful. I don't really notice what you are describing. I can just hold the wheel around the banking on Daytona and it does not feel like the car is getting loose or like I have to correct.

Here are my settings:
In-Game:
Options --> Steering Settings --> Feedback Strength --> 10
Options --> Steering Settings --> Power-Assisted Steering --> Off
Wheel Settings:
Sens --> 900
FF --> 100
dri --> Off
Lin --> 000
Dea --> 010

Did you change any settings in quick-tune or are they the default with that car? Does this happen with other cars?

--edit-- Oh yeah forgot to mention my driving settings (the screen that is shown pre-race that shows tire selection, assists, etc). All assists are off except for ABS which is at 1 and Physics are professional.

 

[Delphic Reason]

The problem the OP is describing,is the in-game deadzone of GT5 (along with GT3/GT4). All other console wheels (besides Fanatec) have an inherent deadzone built into their wheels, due to the less precise sensors/gears/etc... With a Fanatec wheel, you have to add deadzone, as the game was designed for use with the Logitech wheels, and as mentioned, they have inherent deadzone issues.

I'm surprised to see some of you using such small deadzone settings. In all of our testing, we found around 3-4 to be the best all around. If you also add a bit of linearity (1 or 2 is enough) it effectively smooths out the transition between the "deadzone" and active FFB area.

Unfortunately, there is no way to completely get rid of the deadzone in GT5. However, we have been assured by PD the full game (GT5) will NOT have a built in deadzone, like previous installments.

 

[crazedmodder]

The problem the OP is describing,is the in-game deadzone of GT5 (along with GT3/GT4). All other console wheels (besides Fanatec) have an inherent deadzone built into their wheels, due to the less precise sensors/gears/etc... With a Fanatec wheel, you have to add deadzone, as the game was designed for use with the Logitech wheels, and as mentioned, they have inherent deadzone issues.

I'm surprised to see some of you using such small deadzone settings. In all of our testing, we found around 3-4 to be the best all around. If you also add a bit of linearity (1 or 2 is enough) it effectively smooths out the transition between the "deadzone" and active FFB area.

Unfortunately, there is no way to completely get rid of the deadzone in GT5. However, we have been assured by PD the full game (GT5) will NOT have a built in deadzone, like previous installments.

I guess that kind of goes in hand with what I said before about other games you play changing what you notice with the FFB. I'm guessing that iRacing has amazing FFB and makes the flaws in console titles really stick out.

After playing SCC nothing feels like it has a dead zone for me I didn't really notice any in GT5. I also don't get a lot of shaking with 10, maybe I'm just used to all the shaking with my DFGT so a little shaking with 10 is not noticeable for me.

Glad to hear GT5 will not have dead zone for wheels.

So I guess there is nothing you can do for GT5 hampus_dh, sorry